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8350A + 83525A mechanical issues
Hello
In the last months I've been playing with a HP 8350A + 83525A that probably had a uncontrolled impact with something. After replacing a 7426 on CPU board and rebuilding most of the B.West springs with stuff found on taobao, I'm left with mechanical issues. ?Given my noob level I would really appreciate feedback and suggestions from experts.
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The first issue is the plastic lever that operates the power switch (image 1). It broke where the metal pin enters. Glue doesn't seem to be an answer; a 3D printer would probably be the best solution but given the cost I'll just continue plug/unplug the cable.
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Second issue is probably even more complicated. The N connector of the plug in hit something hard and broke the metal fitting inside (image 2). Sorry for the lousy image but haven't decided to take it apart yet given my experience with the reset button of my 5328A (story for another time). This is part of the plug in frame so replacing it means a new plugin very €€€€. Ideas?
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Last question is about adjustments. The last adjustment in the manual is Marker DAC. Although setting the trigger level is quite tricky (seems easier with a scope) the reading I have is indeed 500 and in some moments 400 however full rotations of A4R28 make no differences. This does not sound very good, but more than adequate for hobbyist use
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Thanks in advance for any suggestions for and recommendations
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cheers
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¿ªÔÆÌåÓýRegards the switch I would look at cutting the broken part off the rocker off put a slot into the plastic where the part of plastic was that had the hole make a metal replacement ?and hold the new metal part? in with small nut and bolts ? Re the N? connecter i assume the N connecter has punched a hole through the aluminium front The front panel on the plug in is easy removed soldering iron for the BNC connecter and disconnect the SMA from the MN connecter get 2 steal washers one either side of the broken front panel and reassemble The RF output coax might be a bit short by the thickness of the washer but hopefully a bit of carful rearrangement of the output coax and all should be good? ? PS if you have the memory batteries still in the unit strongly recommend you remove them or replace them as if they go bad they will kill the 8350 and possibly the plug in from the gases the old battery give off ?the batteries are only there to memorise the last set up manly used for repeated testing on test rig ? All my 8? units have the batteries removed ? Paul South coast UK
? ? ? ? ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bumbo.chinelo via groups.io ? Hello In the last months I've been playing with a HP 8350A + 83525A that probably had a uncontrolled impact with something. After replacing a 7426 on CPU board and rebuilding most of the B.West springs with stuff found on taobao, I'm left with mechanical issues. ?Given my noob level I would really appreciate feedback and suggestions from experts. ? The first issue is the plastic lever that operates the power switch (image 1). It broke where the metal pin enters. Glue doesn't seem to be an answer; a 3D printer would probably be the best solution but given the cost I'll just continue plug/unplug the cable. ? Second issue is probably even more complicated. The N connector of the plug in hit something hard and broke the metal fitting inside (image 2). Sorry for the lousy image but haven't decided to take it apart yet given my experience with the reset button of my 5328A (story for another time). This is part of the plug in frame so replacing it means a new plugin very €€€€. Ideas? ? Last question is about adjustments. The last adjustment in the manual is Marker DAC. Although setting the trigger level is quite tricky (seems easier with a scope) the reading I have is indeed 500 and in some moments 400 however full rotations of A4R28 make no differences. This does not sound very good, but more than adequate for hobbyist use ? Thanks in advance for any suggestions for and recommendations ? cheers ? |
Thanks for the feedback
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Last night I tried the rocker fix. It almost worked, but when I went to put the final turns on the screws the plastic cracked thus I went to the next task, i.e. kicking myself in the ass. The only reliable solution is making a new rocker; will try with a piece of aged walnut wood and this weekend go to a junk yard for a small aluminium block.? Not exactly my piece of cake
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The N connector seems to be screwed on the frame and it broke the mounting. Once I'm done with the rocker I'll tackle that and might come back for more suggestion
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The batteries are/were a real bomb. In my 8350 they leaked so much and corroded some tracks This is my first repair of this kind but it has more mechanical tasks than electronic ones
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Cheers
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Hi Bumbo!
Where are you located?
J.Kruth
In a message dated 12/3/2024 4:25:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, bumbo.chinelo@... writes: ?
Thanks for the feedback
?
Last night I tried the rocker fix. It almost worked, but when I went to put the final turns on the screws the plastic cracked thus I went to the next task, i.e. kicking myself in the ass. The only reliable solution is making a new rocker; will try with a piece of aged walnut wood and this weekend go to a junk yard for a small aluminium block.? Not exactly my piece of cake
?
The N connector seems to be screwed on the frame and it broke the mounting. Once I'm done with the rocker I'll tackle that and might come back for more suggestion
?
The batteries are/were a real bomb. In my 8350 they leaked so much and corroded some tracks This is my first repair of this kind but it has more mechanical tasks than electronic ones
?
Cheers
?
?
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