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That, or add a large bridge rectifier that you can mount to the chassis and remove the heat completely from the board.


Michael A. Terrell
--

It is a small tab that you need to lift until it unlatches.

Michael A. Terrell
--

I wonder if replacing with Schottkys, which should have a lower voltage drop and thus less dissipation, would be a good idea?

Ok just ordered these:
1X-40PCS-Dupont-Wire-Jumper-Cable-10cm-2-54MM-Female-to-Female-1P-1P-For-Arduino

$2.75 and free In-US shipping

I think these don't have to be cut to remove the header. Don't they have kind of a small hook on one side that keeps the connector from sliding out? If so its just a matter of pressing on this hook and the connector should come out easily.

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 04:54 PM, Harvey White wrote:

This is a vendor I have ordered from before with decent results. Note
that you're mostly interested in the M-F and perhaps the F-F ones.

F-F would be perfect, the grabbers also have the same pin receptacle as the probe.

Amazon has free shipping if you order more than a certain amount.

Yes but one would have to order over $25 for it to qualify for free shipping, and that's a whole lot of jumpers. Thanks for the link, we are now definitively on the same page, that was very helpful -thank you Harvey. Still going to try and find these same jumpers on ebay, over there even very small orders have usually free shipping, or a buck or two at most, specially the chinese generic stuff. Anyway, just my experience over time, and not to defend the e-pay place, but that is why I rarely even consider ordering anything on Amazon anymore.

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Long time member of HP Agilent's Yahoo group but, for some reason, my account did not migrate to groups.io so I need to post a message to get out of the moderated box. So here I am, posting a message. Sorry for the bandwidth but I don't have anything to ask for or contribute to at this time.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Michael A. TerrellThere are a lot of cheaper listings than that one from the infamous Don Lancaster.

I buy the female to female 40 conductor ribbons, and use them to make wiring harnesses for test fixtures and prototypes. The different sizes of Dupont housings sell for pennies each, by the hundred. A small screwdriver or the tip of a small Exacto blade allow you to remove the single housings, and then to pop them into the larger housing that you need.

<>

Michael Terrell
--

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 16:19:22 -0700, you wrote:

Harvey, would this be something similar to what you are suggesting? Looks like it, if only I did not need to buy 90 pcs it would be perfect. But I'll settle for 10 if need be, 90 is a bit much. I'll keep searching.



I hope its ok to publish e-pay links here...

Yes, that's about right, but the "rare" is not deserved. My previous
post points you at the generic stuff.

Harvey

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 16:13:07 -0700, you wrote:

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 01:10 PM, Harvey White wrote:

You'll like this one. May not be the absolute best, but give it a
try.

Using one of the 0.025 inch square pin jumpers (available relatively
inexpensively on the internet and useful anyway, I could suggest
amazon.com), you want one that has at least one socket on it,
depending on what you want to do to the other end.

Remove the plastic square header, won't fit.

Take a thin piece of heatshrink and cover the exposed pin.

It fits over the ground pin, not sure how deeply, but it will work.

Advantage here is that by using F-F you can likely use a grabber. By
using M-F you can plug it into a breadboard strip.

Hi Harvey, your idea sounds like going in the right direction. I have not yet done any searches on the jumper cables you mention on Amazon (I assume they are probably also available on ebay which usually has free shipping on small stuff), but wanted to ask if you by any chance have a part number or reference to these jumper cables? This being kind of critical size, and I can imagine that out there are more than one size jumpers like these, if by any chance you have this additional info it would be great. Otherwise I'll just start picking up the trail on your tip. Thanks!

Actually, there *is* no part number. These are the generic chinese
made jumper made jumpers. These are about 6 inches long. They can be
had in either M-M, M-F, and F-F varieties. You simply pull them apart
on one line. I'll show you the amazon link (and there are many
vendors)


Prototype-Assortment-Raspberry/dp/B077X7MKHN/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1535327428&sr=8-17&keywords=breadboard+jumper+wires


This is a vendor I have ordered from before with decent results. Note
that you're mostly interested in the M-F and perhaps the F-F ones.

Amazon has free shipping if you order more than a certain amount.
Depends on what you want. Feel free to ask me outside the group, but
I have ordered several kinds of things useful for microprocessor
designs from amazon, and I may be able to help.

I don't count the length as critical, you could always cut and splice
as needed.

Harvey

Harvey, would this be something similar to what you are suggesting? Looks like it, if only I did not need to buy 90 pcs it would be perfect. But I'll settle for 10 if need be, 90 is a bit much. I'll keep searching.



I hope its ok to publish e-pay links here...

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 01:10 PM, Harvey White wrote:

You'll like this one. May not be the absolute best, but give it a
try.

Using one of the 0.025 inch square pin jumpers (available relatively
inexpensively on the internet and useful anyway, I could suggest
amazon.com), you want one that has at least one socket on it,
depending on what you want to do to the other end.

Remove the plastic square header, won't fit.

Take a thin piece of heatshrink and cover the exposed pin.

It fits over the ground pin, not sure how deeply, but it will work.

Advantage here is that by using F-F you can likely use a grabber. By
using M-F you can plug it into a breadboard strip.

Hi Harvey, your idea sounds like going in the right direction. I have not yet done any searches on the jumper cables you mention on Amazon (I assume they are probably also available on ebay which usually has free shipping on small stuff), but wanted to ask if you by any chance have a part number or reference to these jumper cables? This being kind of critical size, and I can imagine that out there are more than one size jumpers like these, if by any chance you have this additional info it would be great. Otherwise I'll just start picking up the trail on your tip. Thanks!

Pat

It is yours send $1.75 ( .25 to cover PayPal) I can send you a paypal invocie if need be?? .or the cash to 7102 Valrie Ln, Riverview, FL 33569

Dave

--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com

Hey Bill,?

Is there any chance of getting a copy of this? I've been looking for the B version for some time but that seems not to exist anywhere. I have both a Viper card and the last version of HP Basic for Windows so I'm interested in trying to get it to work.

Thanks,

TonyG

John,

I struggled to find schematics for my 8664A to repair it. ? is the best resource,? but they have nada for 8664.

I fellow member suggested I look at a similar SIG GEN, 8643A, and ARTEK does have the CLIP for that model, which I purchased.
It was very useful but only a guide. As I remember 8643A uses a conventional VCO and not a YIG.

Did you check the power supplies, and does the CPU board come up OK ?

Regards,
BRIAN (AI6MK)

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 17:37:11 -0400, you wrote:

I'm with Harvey on this one. Use can use the pulser probe or a function
generator to feed the circuit while you use the current probe to follow
the current around the board to the short. Generally it takes me longer
to hook everything up than to actually find the short.

Short story was that I had a design with an S1D13781 graphics
controller chip on an SPI interface, and used that interface for more
than one chip. Other chip didn't work.

put the processor in a "read back" loop for SPI and the other chip
(since the graphics were fine). Traced the signal back to the
graphics chip:

Quote the manual: "The S1D13781 chip holds the MISO line low when not
selected...."

Oh...

Not like that made any sense

Add a 1G126 or 1G125 so that when CS is down, the MISO line out is
active, otherwise tristated.

reasonably quick solution to problem.

Still doesn't make any sense to do that. All subsequent designs have
that gate in automatically.

"We don't need no stinkin' standards....."

Harvey

Fantastic for finding bad tants across power rails.

Paul

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 04:10:08PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:32:11 -0700, you wrote:

Not sure what happened as my post that was sent in by email apears to be missing the body text. I am replying to myself to send in the missing text. Sorry if I am in some way doing it wrong.

=== Original Message ===

Hi, I am new to this group here at IO, and was redirected from the former Yahoo HP group where I used to be a member a long time ago.

I just recently acquired a nice 5022A TTL/CMOS Troubleshooting Kit which includes one each of the 545A Logic probe, 546A Logic Pulser, and 547A current probe, all in a nice HP pouch, and everything in very good condition given age, and fully operational. Originally this kit also included the 548A logic clip, but this specific bundle I purchased did not, so in the mean time I managed to get one clip separately to make it complete once again.

I've got them. You'll find that the current probe is the least used,
but the most valuable of the parts. VERY useful in finding a shorted
signal line, just keep it active and look for the largest current
flow.

Hi,
If you're into weight lifting the 8664A is the better choice.?
I have both, and to the casual observer, without the ability to measure phase noise,? I cannot tell the difference in spectral purity.
I use a GPSDO as the REF so there is really no issue with frequency stability/accuracy.? My 8648 has the TXCO and it's but useless.?
If they ever break,? good luck trying to fix the 8664A...there is very little doc and only limited schematics.

As a GP SIG GEN,? I would opt for the simpler, and lighter, 8648.

Just my 2 cents
Brian (AI6MK)
?