Date

Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

Dave �

About a year ago I bought a small vacuum that was specifically intended to clean computers. It will both suck or blow and has lots of attachments. I think it was around $100, but I am no longer sure. If you are interested I can provide more details. 73 � Mike

Mike B. Feher, N4FS

89 Arnold Blvd.

Howell NJ 07731

848-245-9115

From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 11:31 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

Greetings,

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.

Best regards,

Dave W6TE

Sent from for Windows 10


Re: KNOBS HP1701 SCOPE

Keith Cockburn
 

Hi Bob

Well done in getting the olde going. I have just done the same with a 1725a. It was received with no covers bent timebase shafts. Wiring looms cut and no power supply power transistors on missing heatsink. The main problem was a warped horizontal board to such an extent that the socketed main and delayed timebase boards thro which the switch shafts run was out of line. This made for very intermittent operation. It looked as though someone had got so fed up with this they had hit the timebase knobs with a hammer and bent everything. If you want I can photo these so u can make something on a lathe (1701 and 1725 knobs look similar). I clamped both timebase boards to the scope side member now its reliable. I wanted something to enable me to see pulses from a Geiger tube the old 545a was not up to it.

Cheers Keith G0SKJ

-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: 21 October 2017 04:48
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] KNOBS HP1701 SCOPE

HELLO to the Group...

Recently aquired a slightly damaged 1701 scope.

The three knobs on the time base selector were

missing, and all three shafts were bent..Through

some subtle persuation, and lots of praying, I got

the shafts stright. To my surprise, when I powered

it up and turned a couple of knobs, a nice bright

sharpe trace appeared.........

Now comes my real problem... KNOBS ..........

HP part #s

0370 2173

0370 1129

01710 57404

Hoping someone has some idea where I migth

find them or even a parts unit. (reasonable $$)

Thanks..... ...BOB... KD0IJI@...


Re: 5342A: blown sampler?

 

I have a 5342A with option 005 which extends operation from 18GHz to 24GHz. It has the original N-type connector though. So I expect there must be other hardware changes, or as Steve K suggests selected parts. The option cost $500 extra.

Steve


On ‎Friday�, ‎October� �20�, �2017� �02�:�00�:�22� ‎PM� ‎BST, Steve - Home Steve-Krull@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:


I’ve done the connector change and, using a good quality SMA, I have two 5342As that count reliably to 26GHz and one that just won’t count reliably above about 21GHz. I don’t have a 5343A to compare to but I wonder if maybe they were just hand-selected 5342As?


73,

Steve
WB0DBS



On Oct 20, 2017, at 7:38 AM, Tobias Pluess tobias.pluess@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:

Hi Harke,

oh, interesting. So the upgrade to 26 GHz, which would actually be a 5343A, changes only the connector? :-)
This is funny, because I use a HP 8563E spectrum analyzer at work, which operates fine at 26.5 GHz using a N connector!

Best
Tobias



From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 14:13
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: Re: RE: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: 5342A: blown sampler?

Hello Tobias,

Congrats on the repair! Happy for you the sampler was fine! I can only comment on the frequency range. I have a number of HP equipment (including the HP5342A) that are spec'd to 20-22 GHz and with an (expensive) option that range can be extended to 26 GHz. The only hw change is the input connector that goes from N to APC3.5. No other change! Try the counter at 24 GHz and you will see it will work!
Good luck!

Harke


On Friday, October 20, 2017, 2:05:31 PM GMT+2, Tobias Pluess tobias.pluess@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:


Hi all,

problem solved: as I said, the counter was counting fine on the low frequency input, but on the high frequency input, it displayed only zeros. The reason was that
a) the -5.2V operating voltage was out of the spec
b) the solder joint between the semirigid coax to the front panel's N connector cracked, thus the semirigid was no longer connected to the connector. I re-soldered and now it counts fine (only tested with 2 GHz so far).

I wonder whether it is possible to replace the ROM. It would be nice to add option 004, the DAC. I have couple of DAC80 here, however, opt. 004 needs a different ROM, unfortunately.

I also read that there was an option 005, which extends the frequency range to 24 GHz. Does someone know what option 005 actually was? was it a different sampler, or something that can easily be changed?

Tobias


From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2017 04:37
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: 5342A: blown sampler?

Hi,

Your measurements with the diode mode suggest the sampler is OK, digital meters don't use the same amount of current to test resistance as older analogue meters and that's the reason you didn't get their readings.


I agree with Steve, you may need to replace a number of the 1826-0371, either on the A8 main VCO, A4 offset VCO or both.


I'd also check the A5 output to see if you're getting drive to the sampler driver and then check the sampler driver A26 itself.


I'd check in that order, check the VCOs are outputting signal, check the A5 to ensure it's outputting a signal toA26 and it should alternate between the two VCOs, then check A26.


To check the sampler driver A26you really need aspectrum analyser. As most spectrum analysers have a capacitor (DC block) in the front end you need to terminate the A26 module with 50 Ohm and then measure what you see ac ross that with the spec an, if you see lots of harmonics then all is good. You will not see anything(apart from the 325MHz drive) without a dc return for the step recovery diode.


If the A26 is not working that could either be the SRD or it could be U1 on the A26 module - I have seen faulty U1 ICs in the past, most likely due to heat - they run very hot.


For the 1826-0371, you can buy fakes/replicas/copies off ebay or do what I do, I make a small smd pcb with 2 x 2sc3356 transistors, 2 x 100 ohm resistors and a 120 ohm resistor in the emitter lead(all smd components)with pins to fit in the DIP footprint. You'll see the schematic for the 1826-0371 on a number of the 5342A schematics. I've not had any issue with my made up boards yet.


If you find it is U1 on the A5 module I can also give you an alternative circuit for that but it is not quite optimised yet andrequires short leads to minimise parasi tics.


Good luck

Greg


Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

Thanks Pete,

Yes, that will fit the bill� exactly what Im looking for!

Sent from Mail<> for Windows 10

From: Peter Loron peterl@... [hp_agilent_equipment]<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2017 12:57 AM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners



The 3M model 497 is an example of the kind of vacuum you want for this work. They can be had used on eBay for < $100.

-Pete



On Oct 20, 2017, at 20:31, David Smith w6te@...<mailto:w6te@...> [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...>> wrote:



Greetings,

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I wont be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I dont mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.

Best regards,

Dave W6TE

Sent from Mail<> for Windows 10








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

Peter Loron
 

The 3M model 497 is an example of the kind of vacuum you want for this work. They can be had used on eBay for < $100.

-Pete


On Oct 20, 2017, at 20:31, David Smith w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:



Greetings,
I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.
This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.
Best regards,
Dave W6TE
Sent fromfor Windows 10




Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

In general, it is not a problem. The thing with static electricity
and vacuum cleaners is, though.

What happens is the dust inevitably has a charge, and when it gets
dragged through the hose, it deposits its charge in the vacuum
cleaner bin. As time goes on, that charge builds up, and discharges
to the motor, and if there is lots of dust, <<BOOM>>!

I was cleaning up sawdust from my basement floor one day, and
there was quite a lot. I was doing the area around my bandsaw,
and <<BUZZAAP>>! The largest bolt of static I have ever seen,
jumped between my elbow and the bandsaw's bed. It seemed to be
5 or so inches long. Plastic hoses are the pits.

I had a coworker once that wanted to clean up his TRS-80, and
asked about using a vacuum. I told him don't. He didn't listen,
and the next day came telling of how the TRS-80 was showing a
complete memory failure. Imagine.

Air passing through the hose potentially could deposit charge too,
but usually doesn't because the blow gun is metal, and you are holding
it, returning the charge back to ground. It would be quite different
if your compressor was passing quantities of dust... but most have
air filters.

-Chuck Harris



Dave Daniel kc0wjn@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:

I looked around for something similar a while back. I was thinking of the vacuums
used to clean out toner from printers (we used to have these when I worked for STK
Printer Ops). They had small nozzles and were very effective at cleaning up toner. I
wasn't able to find anything remotely affordable.

I've always wondered about using compressed air on static-sensitive electronics. It
seems to me to be a bad idea, ESD-wise, but I have no real experience.

DaveD

On 10/20/2017 9:31 PM, David Smith w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:

Greetings,

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy
inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years.
I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply
unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of
thick dust all over the unit.

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment
that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have
a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked
on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld
vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The
cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very
proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand
held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic
equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of
the question.

Best regards,

Dave W6TE

Sent from Mail <> for Windows 10


Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

I looked around for something similar a while back. I was thinking of the vacuums used to clean out toner from printers (we used to have these when I worked for STK Printer Ops). They had small nozzles and were very effective at cleaning up toner. I wasn't able to find anything remotely affordable.

I've always wondered about using compressed air on static-sensitive electronics. It seems to me to be a bad idea, ESD-wise, but I have no real experience.

DaveD

On 10/20/2017 9:31 PM, David Smith w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
�

Greetings,

�

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.

�

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won�t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don�t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.

�

Best regards,

�

Dave W6TE �

�

Sent from for Windows 10

�



Virus-free.


KNOBS HP1701 SCOPE

 

HELLO to the Group...


Recently aquired a slightly damaged 1701 scope.

The three knobs on the time base selector were

missing, and all three shafts were bent..Through

some subtle persuation, and lots of praying, I got

the shafts stright. To my surprise, when I powered

it up and turned a couple of knobs, a nice bright

sharpe trace appeared.........

Now comes my real problem... KNOBS ..........

HP part #s

0370 2173

0370 1129

01710 57404

Hoping someone has some idea where I migth

find them or even a parts unit. (reasonable $$)



Thanks..... ...BOB... KD0IJI@...


Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

Yeah, static rated vacs are a royal pain.

Easy way? Go outside with compressed air! :)

Or build a box with pegboard on top and an inlet for a shop vac. Also good for sanding on and not getting sawdust everywhere.


On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 11:31 PM, David Smith w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:

Greetings,

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.

Best regards,

Dave W6TE

Sent from for Windows 10



Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners

 

Greetings,

I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit.

This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question.

Best regards,

Dave W6TE

Sent from for Windows 10


OT Omni Spectra Semi-Rigid Tools

 

Recently I obtained an Omni-Spectra Semi-Rigid Tool set for use to attach SMA connectors to .141 and other semi-rigid coax..... The set was called a T-200/400 set.


I also see on Ebay a T-450 set....


Which gives me wonder....what connectors was it for.


So, I was wondering if anyone knows what Omni-Specta tooling numbers match which connectors....


And, is there any old catalogs out there with more detail?


Just a nice curiosity from the past that I'm trying to bring into the present....


Dan in Chandler, AZ


Re: 2225a gpib inkjet

 

Had (or probably still have somewhere) 1 or 2 of the parallel versions of them way back in 1990ish timeframe. I remember when you start a new cartridge, you use something to push the ink bladder in the back of the cartridge until the ink comes out the nozzles, then wipe the nozzles clean with a paper towel, then stick it in the printer. Wouldn't think you'd have to do much else to get it to work...

On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 3:16 PM, Bob Bownes bownes@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:


So I’ve been asked to help dig out a house of a deceased electronic, test equipment and ham radio hoarder.

One of the things it turned up while going through the many many boxes was 3 HP2225 inkjet printers with Gpib interfaces.

I see the ink cartridges are still available. Has anyone tried to breathe life back into one after sitting on a shelf for a few years (decades perhaps)?

Thanks,
Bob

And yes, the place is a thing of dreams/nightmares. Floor to ceiling, basement, first, second floor, isles just wide enough to walk in. We’re doing an on-site sale next weekend in Albany, N.Y. Send me a message offline and I’ll share the details.

A few pictures here:
And that’s just the stuff that wasn’t in boxes.



Re: HP 3455A stability issue

 

I believe the creep is normal in a 3455A—the Autocal circuitry is designed to correct for the creep. The 3456A uses different circuits and doesn't creep, so it doesn't need the Autocal circuit.

I am certainly no expert and am not in front of my manuals, just going on what I remember.

Jeremy

On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 2:52 PM Chris Farley kc9ieq@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:

Hi All,
Have a 3455A 6.5 digit multimeter that I have finally gotten up and running after some hiccups. While trying to go through some of the cal procedures, I have found the unit does not stay zero'ed. The "Auto Cal" function seems to do its job well, that is not the issue here. With Auto Cal OFF and a nice shiny copper strap placed between the hi/low terminals, the unit reads .000000V in hi-accuracy mode. HOWEVER, that reading slowly creeps DOWNWARD in time, and have seen it as low as .000050V. It takes only a minute or so for the first couple uV drop. This also seems to happen in 2 wire resistance mode, but to a lesser extent. Not sure about 4 wire mode, and resolution is such that it doesn't register in ACV modes.

HERE'S where it gets weird though... If I hit Auto-Cal (or change mode/range which automatically enables Auto-Cal again) the unit reads 0 after a couple of counts, as it should, being corrected. When turning Auto-Cal back off again, the unit stays at 0, and starts creeping downward again.
Does this sound like something is faulty with the input DC amplifier, something funky with the A/D converter, or perhaps something else?? I'm a little dumbfounded by this and at a loss where to even begin.
OR is this perfectly normal behavior for these meters??? It has been on 24/7 for about a week now, so this is certainly not a matter of it not having enough time to stabilize.

Incidentally, this exercise has made me realize that Auto-Cal apparently does not function in my 3456A, that Simco just cal'd earlier this year. Ugh.

Any input at all with this??
Regards,
Chris

--
4.


2225a gpib inkjet

 

So I’ve been asked to help dig out a house of a deceased electronic, test equipment and ham radio hoarder.

One of the things it turned up while going through the many many boxes was 3 HP2225 inkjet printers with Gpib interfaces.

I see the ink cartridges are still available. Has anyone tried to breathe life back into one after sitting on a shelf for a few years (decades perhaps)?

Thanks,
Bob

And yes, the place is a thing of dreams/nightmares. Floor to ceiling, basement, first, second floor, isles just wide enough to walk in. We’re doing an on-site sale next weekend in Albany, N.Y. Send me a message offline and I’ll share the details.

A few pictures here:
And that’s just the stuff that wasn’t in boxes.


Re: Looking help with HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator

 

I believe these are the common HP design with solenoid coils driving two plungers that switch the pads in and out. If you have not overloaded the 10 dB section, then likely the problem is with some really tiny o'rings on the plunger shafts. Once the o'rings deteriorate, the action that moves the fingers that connect to the pads does not move enough and the section goes open when asked to switch it in...

The solution is to take it apart and replace the o'rings....If the pad is bad, it will have to be replaced also.

I can do this for you if needed (for some $)

Dan in Chandler, AZ


HP 3455A stability issue

 

Hi All,
Have a 3455A 6.5 digit multimeter that I have finally gotten up and running after some hiccups. While trying to go through some of the cal procedures, I have found the unit does not stay zero'ed. The "Auto Cal" function seems to do its job well, that is not the issue here. With Auto Cal OFF and a nice shiny copper strap placed between the hi/low terminals, the unit reads .000000V in hi-accuracy mode. HOWEVER, that reading slowly creeps DOWNWARD in time, and have seen it as low as .000050V. It takes only a minute or so for the first couple uV drop. This also seems to happen in 2 wire resistance mode, but to a lesser extent. Not sure about 4 wire mode, and resolution is such that it doesn't register in ACV modes.

HERE'S where it gets weird though... If I hit Auto-Cal (or change mode/range which automatically enables Auto-Cal again) the unit reads 0 after a couple of counts, as it should, being corrected. When turning Auto-Cal back off again, the unit stays at 0, and starts creeping downward again.
Does this sound like something is faulty with the input DC amplifier, something funky with the A/D converter, or perhaps something else?? I'm a little dumbfounded by this and at a loss where to even begin.
OR is this perfectly normal behavior for these meters??? It has been on 24/7 for about a week now, so this is certainly not a matter of it not having enough time to stabilize.

Incidentally, this exercise has made me realize that Auto-Cal apparently does not function in my 3456A, that Simco just cal'd earlier this year. Ugh.

Any input at all with this??
Regards,
Chris


Looking help with HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator

 

Hi all,
The HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator in my home lab 8671B 2-18 GHz Generator has developed a bad 10 dB section. Is this repairable if disassembled? Does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell?
Thanks - Kerry N6IZW in San Diego


FS: NOS in Box 20, CINCH 50-20SN-1 Connectors

 

I found a box of 20 brand new in the box CINCH Model 50-20SN-1 connectors which are used in a lot of HP etc test equipment. I was able to find them on Digikey and Allied etc for about $4.50/ea.

Here is some specs:

Manufacturer: Cinch Connectivity Solutions
RoHS: No
Product: With Flanges
Number of Positions: 20 Position
Pitch: 3.96 mm
Mounting Style: Through Hole
Contact Plating: Gold
Series:
Brand: Cinch
Contact Material: Spring Brass
Housing Material: Polyester
Here is what they look like:







Asking $20 plus a small amount for shipping for all 20. PayPal or checks works fine. Thanks es 73.

Gedas, W8BYA

Gallery at 
Light travels faster than sound....
This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.


Re: 3586B Selective Voltmeter Help trouble shooting

 

>Associated circuitry in A21, A22, would also need to be verified before you conclude defective A70.

I'm a little confused by that, if I remove A70 and close the switch and it then the unit runs a proper CAL,
wouldn't that say A21 and A22 were good?
Thanks, Lamont

P.S. I'm not sure what the A70 boards does, maybe an explanation of that would help.


Re: 3586B Selective Voltmeter Help trouble shooting

 

The keypad switches have a leaf spring that has to buckle
in order for the switch contact to actuate.

Those that make a loud and forceful clunk have sticky grease
that is effectively gluing the leaf to the plastic parts.

If a button doesn't spring, and then suddenly release, as you
press it, it is probably defective.

As a way of visualizing what is happening, the leaf spring has
holders on each of its ends that because the spring is longer
than the space between the holders, force the spring into a
curved "L" shape up against the key plunger, and base. When
you press the key, you are making the space even shorter, and
the spring's curve presses even tighter into the crook of the
"L". When the key's pressure makes it so tight that the spring
cannot move any farther into the crook, the spring pops up,
making a knee, on the bottom of the "L".

If you cannot feel that happen, the spring is either missing, or
is creased. Missing springs will usually be hanging around
somewhere in the front panel area, and can be replaced. Bent
springs can usually be straightened by stroking the crease out
of the spring with a small stick.

Chuck Harris

nojunk@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:

I have not noticed any dead keys, but I'll run another check. I have some that click with slight force and others that work but don't click.
Thanks, Lamont