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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Dave � About a year ago I bought a small vacuum that was specifically intended to clean computers. It will both suck or blow and has lots of attachments. I think it was around $100, but I am no longer sure. If you are interested I can provide more details. 73 � Mike Mike B. Feher, N4FS 89 Arnold Blvd. Howell NJ 07731 848-245-9115 From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 11:31 PM To: hp_agilent_equipment Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Greetings, I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit. This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question. Best regards, Dave W6TE Sent from for Windows 10 |
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Re: KNOBS HP1701 SCOPE
Keith Cockburn
Hi Bob Well done in getting the olde going. I have just done the same with a 1725a. It was received with no covers bent timebase shafts. Wiring looms cut and no power supply power transistors on missing heatsink. The main problem was a warped horizontal board to such an extent that the socketed main and delayed timebase boards thro which the switch shafts run was out of line. This made for very intermittent operation. It looked as though someone had got so fed up with this they had hit the timebase knobs with a hammer and bent everything. If you want I can photo these so u can make something on a lathe (1701 and 1725 knobs look similar). I clamped both timebase boards to the scope side member now its reliable. I wanted something to enable me to see pulses from a Geiger tube the old 545a was not up to it.
Cheers Keith G0SKJ
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HELLO to the Group...
Recently aquired a slightly damaged 1701 scope. The three knobs on the time base selector were missing, and all three shafts were bent..Through some subtle persuation, and lots of praying, I got the shafts stright. To my surprise, when I powered it up and turned a couple of knobs, a nice bright sharpe trace appeared......... Now comes my real problem... KNOBS .......... HP part #s 0370 2173 0370 1129 01710 57404 Hoping someone has some idea where I migth find them or even a parts unit. (reasonable $$)
Thanks..... ...BOB... KD0IJI@... |
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Re: 5342A: blown sampler?
I have a 5342A with option 005 which extends operation from 18GHz to 24GHz. It has the original N-type connector though. So I expect there must be other hardware changes, or as Steve K suggests selected parts. The option cost $500 extra. Steve
On Friday�, October� �20�, �2017� �02�:�00�:�22� PM� BST, Steve - Home Steve-Krull@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
I’ve done the connector change and, using a good quality SMA, I have two 5342As that count reliably to 26GHz and one that just won’t count reliably above about 21GHz. I don’t have a 5343A to compare to but I wonder if maybe they were just hand-selected 5342As? 73, Steve WB0DBS On Oct 20, 2017, at 7:38 AM, Tobias Pluess tobias.pluess@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Thanks Pete,
Yes, that will fit the bill� exactly what Im looking for! Sent from Mail<> for Windows 10 From: Peter Loron peterl@... [hp_agilent_equipment]<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2017 12:57 AM To: hp_agilent_equipment@...<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...> Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners The 3M model 497 is an example of the kind of vacuum you want for this work. They can be had used on eBay for < $100. -Pete On Oct 20, 2017, at 20:31, David Smith w6te@...<mailto:w6te@...> [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...>> wrote: Greetings, I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit. This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I wont be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I dont mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question. Best regards, Dave W6TE Sent from Mail<> for Windows 10 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Peter Loron
The 3M model 497 is an example of the kind of vacuum you want for this work. They can be had used on eBay for < $100.-Pete
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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
In general, it is not a problem. The thing with static electricity
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and vacuum cleaners is, though. What happens is the dust inevitably has a charge, and when it gets dragged through the hose, it deposits its charge in the vacuum cleaner bin. As time goes on, that charge builds up, and discharges to the motor, and if there is lots of dust, <<BOOM>>! I was cleaning up sawdust from my basement floor one day, and there was quite a lot. I was doing the area around my bandsaw, and <<BUZZAAP>>! The largest bolt of static I have ever seen, jumped between my elbow and the bandsaw's bed. It seemed to be 5 or so inches long. Plastic hoses are the pits. I had a coworker once that wanted to clean up his TRS-80, and asked about using a vacuum. I told him don't. He didn't listen, and the next day came telling of how the TRS-80 was showing a complete memory failure. Imagine. Air passing through the hose potentially could deposit charge too, but usually doesn't because the blow gun is metal, and you are holding it, returning the charge back to ground. It would be quite different if your compressor was passing quantities of dust... but most have air filters. -Chuck Harris Dave Daniel kc0wjn@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: I looked around for something similar a while back. I was thinking of the vacuums |
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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
I looked around for something similar a while back. I was thinking of the vacuums used to clean out toner from printers (we used to have these when I worked for STK Printer Ops). They had small nozzles and were very effective at cleaning up toner. I wasn't able to find anything remotely affordable.I've always wondered about using compressed air on static-sensitive electronics. It seems to me to be a bad idea, ESD-wise, but I have no real experience. DaveD On 10/20/2017 9:31 PM, David Smith
w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
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KNOBS HP1701 SCOPE
HELLO to the Group... Recently aquired a slightly damaged 1701 scope. The three knobs on the time base selector were missing, and all three shafts were bent..Through some subtle persuation, and lots of praying, I got the shafts stright. To my surprise, when I powered it up and turned a couple of knobs, a nice bright sharpe trace appeared......... Now comes my real problem... KNOBS .......... HP part #s 0370 2173 0370 1129 01710 57404 Hoping someone has some idea where I migth find them or even a parts unit. (reasonable $$) Thanks..... ...BOB... KD0IJI@... |
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Re: Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Yeah, static rated vacs are a royal pain. Easy way? Go outside with compressed air! :) Or build a box with pegboard on top and an inlet for a shop vac. Also good for sanding on and not getting sawdust everywhere. On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 11:31 PM, David Smith w6te@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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Anti Static Vacuum Cleaners
Greetings, I was working on an HP 438A Power Meter yesterday which was absolutely filthy inside. This thing must have been run 24/7 in a filthy environment over the years. I had to replace the fan, as usual, so I went ahead and pulled the power supply unit out to clean the dust and crap out of it. But, really, there was a layer of thick dust all over the unit. This got me to thinking� I need a better way of vacuuming and cleaning equipment that comes in that I won’t be fearful of damaging the cmos devices. Mind you I have a grounded ESD pad across my bench that equipment sits on when it is being worked on and I always use a grounded wrist band on my wrist. I investigated some handheld vacuum cleaners and discovered a few models that are electrostatically safe. The cost was a bit of a shocker as they sold for around $375 USD!!! (They must be very proud of their equipment.) What are the recommendations of the group for a hand held vacuum cleaner that would be safe to use around sensitive electronic equipment? I don’t mind spending $100 or so on something but $375 is a bit out of the question. Best regards, Dave W6TE Sent from for Windows 10 |
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OT Omni Spectra Semi-Rigid Tools
Recently I obtained an Omni-Spectra Semi-Rigid Tool set for use to attach SMA connectors to .141 and other semi-rigid coax..... The set was called a T-200/400 set. I also see on Ebay a T-450 set.... Which gives me wonder....what connectors was it for. So, I was wondering if anyone knows what Omni-Specta tooling numbers match which connectors.... And, is there any old catalogs out there with more detail? Just a nice curiosity from the past that I'm trying to bring into the present.... Dan in Chandler, AZ |
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Re: 2225a gpib inkjet
Had (or probably still have somewhere) 1 or 2 of the parallel versions of them way back in 1990ish timeframe. I remember when you start a new cartridge, you use something to push the ink bladder in the back of the cartridge until the ink comes out the nozzles, then wipe the nozzles clean with a paper towel, then stick it in the printer. Wouldn't think you'd have to do much else to get it to work... On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 3:16 PM, Bob Bownes bownes@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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Re: HP 3455A stability issue
I believe the creep is normal in a 3455A—the Autocal circuitry is designed to correct for the creep. The 3456A uses different circuits and doesn't creep, so it doesn't need the Autocal circuit. I am certainly no expert and am not in front of my manuals, just going on what I remember. Jeremy On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 2:52 PM Chris Farley kc9ieq@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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2225a gpib inkjet
So I’ve been asked to help dig out a house of a deceased electronic, test equipment and ham radio hoarder.
One of the things it turned up while going through the many many boxes was 3 HP2225 inkjet printers with Gpib interfaces. I see the ink cartridges are still available. Has anyone tried to breathe life back into one after sitting on a shelf for a few years (decades perhaps)? Thanks, Bob And yes, the place is a thing of dreams/nightmares. Floor to ceiling, basement, first, second floor, isles just wide enough to walk in. We’re doing an on-site sale next weekend in Albany, N.Y. Send me a message offline and I’ll share the details. A few pictures here: And that’s just the stuff that wasn’t in boxes. |
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Re: Looking help with HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator
I believe these are the common HP design with solenoid coils driving two plungers that switch the pads in and out. If you have not overloaded the 10 dB section, then likely the problem is with some really tiny o'rings on the plunger shafts. Once the o'rings deteriorate, the action that moves the fingers that connect to the pads does not move enough and the section goes open when asked to switch it in...
The solution is to take it apart and replace the o'rings....If the pad is bad, it will have to be replaced also. I can do this for you if needed (for some $) Dan in Chandler, AZ |
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HP 3455A stability issue
Hi All, Have a 3455A 6.5 digit multimeter that I have finally gotten up and running after some hiccups. While trying to go through some of the cal procedures, I have found the unit does not stay zero'ed. The "Auto Cal" function seems to do its job well, that is not the issue here. With Auto Cal OFF and a nice shiny copper strap placed between the hi/low terminals, the unit reads .000000V in hi-accuracy mode. HOWEVER, that reading slowly creeps DOWNWARD in time, and have seen it as low as .000050V. It takes only a minute or so for the first couple uV drop. This also seems to happen in 2 wire resistance mode, but to a lesser extent. Not sure about 4 wire mode, and resolution is such that it doesn't register in ACV modes. HERE'S where it gets weird though... If I hit Auto-Cal (or change mode/range which automatically enables Auto-Cal again) the unit reads 0 after a couple of counts, as it should, being corrected. When turning Auto-Cal back off again, the unit stays at 0, and starts creeping downward again. Does this sound like something is faulty with the input DC amplifier, something funky with the A/D converter, or perhaps something else?? I'm a little dumbfounded by this and at a loss where to even begin. OR is this perfectly normal behavior for these meters??? It has been on 24/7 for about a week now, so this is certainly not a matter of it not having enough time to stabilize. Incidentally, this exercise has made me realize that Auto-Cal apparently does not function in my 3456A, that Simco just cal'd earlier this year. Ugh. Any input at all with this?? Regards, Chris |
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Looking help with HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator
Hi all, The HP 3322HB 110 dB programmable attenuator in my home lab 8671B 2-18 GHz Generator has developed a bad 10 dB section. Is this repairable if disassembled? Does anyone have one they'd be willing to sell? Thanks - Kerry N6IZW in San Diego |
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FS: NOS in Box 20, CINCH 50-20SN-1 Connectors
I found a box of 20 brand new in the box CINCH Model 50-20SN-1 connectors which are used in a lot of HP etc test equipment. I was able to find them on Digikey and Allied etc for about $4.50/ea. Here is some specs:
Here is what they look like: Asking $20 plus a small amount for shipping for all 20. PayPal or checks works fine. Thanks es 73. Gedas, W8BYA Gallery at Light travels faster than sound.... This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak. |
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Re: 3586B Selective Voltmeter Help trouble shooting
>Associated circuitry in A21, A22, would also need to be verified before you conclude defective A70.
I'm a little confused by that, if I remove A70 and close the switch and it then the unit runs a proper CAL, wouldn't that say A21 and A22 were good? Thanks, Lamont P.S. I'm not sure what the A70 boards does, maybe an explanation of that would help. |
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Re: 3586B Selective Voltmeter Help trouble shooting
The keypad switches have a leaf spring that has to buckle
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in order for the switch contact to actuate. Those that make a loud and forceful clunk have sticky grease that is effectively gluing the leaf to the plastic parts. If a button doesn't spring, and then suddenly release, as you press it, it is probably defective. As a way of visualizing what is happening, the leaf spring has holders on each of its ends that because the spring is longer than the space between the holders, force the spring into a curved "L" shape up against the key plunger, and base. When you press the key, you are making the space even shorter, and the spring's curve presses even tighter into the crook of the "L". When the key's pressure makes it so tight that the spring cannot move any farther into the crook, the spring pops up, making a knee, on the bottom of the "L". If you cannot feel that happen, the spring is either missing, or is creased. Missing springs will usually be hanging around somewhere in the front panel area, and can be replaced. Bent springs can usually be straightened by stroking the crease out of the spring with a small stick. Chuck Harris nojunk@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: I have not noticed any dead keys, but I'll run another check. I have some that click with slight force and others that work but don't click. |