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Date

Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

 

International bank transfer (wire transfer) is the standard for international transactions for decades. Either with or without a Letter of Credit. A wire transfer with a Letter of Credit is totally safe but very expensive. The buyer has to arrange for a Letter of Credit with his bank which which will collect the money and fees and transfer the sum to the sellers bank. Only after the seller has shipped the items and provides shipping and customs documents the money is relased.

I agree that Western Union is to be avoided by all means.
vy 73 Heinz DH2FA, KM5VT

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 12.03.2013 um 17:19 schrieb Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...>:

That may be, but it has been all over the news that if they request
wiring the money it is usually a sign of a rip off. I avoid anything
that looks the least bit fishy on the internet. Too many scams.

Steve

David DiGiacomo wrote:

On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...
<mailto:willltinker%40gmail.com>> wrote:
Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come
back.

Look at it from the seller's point of view... foreign credit card
transactions are a huge risk. Why shouldn't they require a form of
payment that's safe for them?

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

 

On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 10:58 AM, David Kirkby <david.kirkby@...> wrote:
On 12 March 2013 16:09, David DiGiacomo <daviddigiacomo@...> wrote:
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...> wrote:
Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come back.
Look at it from the seller's point of view... foreign credit card
transactions are a huge risk. Why shouldn't they require a form of
payment that's safe for them?
Why do you say "foreign credit card transactions are a huge risk?"

Lots of people make foreign credit card transactions every day to
people they don't know. If the risk was considered huge, this would
simply not happen.
It's a risk to the seller, not the buyer. If it's a stolen card, you
can get a chargeback months later, and have no recourse.


Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

David Kirkby
 

On 12 March 2013 16:09, David DiGiacomo <daviddigiacomo@...> wrote:
On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...> wrote:
Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come back.
Look at it from the seller's point of view... foreign credit card
transactions are a huge risk. Why shouldn't they require a form of
payment that's safe for them?
Why do you say "foreign credit card transactions are a huge risk?"

Lots of people make foreign credit card transactions every day to
people they don't know. If the risk was considered huge, this would
simply not happen.

Any transaction has some risk, but I don't think one can consider it a
huge risk.

But wiring money is very risky.

Dave


Looking for s-param test set, non-working, for 8753

Peter Gottlieb
 

I am looking for a test set for the 8753. Ideally I'd like to get a 85064A which has blown couplers or a B. I'm going to be doing some mods in the thing. I could even use a 85047A with blown couplers.

I see them pop up on the bay here and there but wondering if anyone on this list has something first.

If you have something, contact me off-list to let me know what you have and how much you want for it.

Thanks,
Peter


Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

 

That may be, but it has been all over the news that if they request wiring the money it is usually a sign of a rip off. I avoid anything that looks the least bit fishy on the internet. Too many scams.

Steve

David DiGiacomo wrote:


On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@... <mailto:willltinker%40gmail.com>> wrote:
Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come
back.

Look at it from the seller's point of view... foreign credit card
transactions are a huge risk. Why shouldn't they require a form of
payment that's safe for them?


Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

 

On Tue, Mar 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...> wrote:
Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come back.
Look at it from the seller's point of view... foreign credit card
transactions are a huge risk. Why shouldn't they require a form of
payment that's safe for them?


Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

 

Wiring the money is a BIG RED FLAG. Stop, turnaround, and never come back.

Steve

Bob Stewart wrote:


I wouldn't touch it. In fact, I wouldn't touch anything that wants me to pay in the equivalent of cash poked through a slot. However, I've never dealt with them.

Bob

________________________________
From: David Kirkby <david.kirkby@...
<mailto:david.kirkby%40onetel.net>>
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 9:19 PM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test
equipment?


I'm looking for an HP 85054B type-N 18 GHz calibration kit. A company
called Eglink in Korea says they have one, but they want the money
wired, and I'm not keen to do that. In fact Firefox wont even let me
look at the site without making an exception, as it is supposidly been
identified as a source of viruses



Certainly not my first choice when it comes to buying things, but I
might just consider it if I can find out more about this outfit.

Only recently I noticed that if an item is NOT bought on eBay, but
Paypal is used to pay for it, the buyer is only protected in a few
countries. The UK and USA are two of them, but it is quite a small
number. I once sent a few hundred Dollars to Hong Kong via Paypal.
Luckily it worked out OK, and I got the goods, but I later reailized I
had no comeback at all.

If the item is bought on eBay, then it is diffierent and I think
Paypal will cover the buyer irrespective of the location.

Dave





Re: making 50 ohm measurements with a 75-ohm s-parameter test set

David Kirkby
 

On 9 March 2013 02:41, bdunn246 <bdunn246@...> wrote:
Hi all-

Thanks much for the feedback. In my original post, I neglected to mention I do plan to make 2-port measurements of amps, filters, etc. I guess it slipped my mind given how easy through calibration is! :-)
I thought you would.

I think most people who own a VNA will at some point want to measure a
two port device like a filter. I sometimes want 3 and 4 port devics,
but for what I want (directional couplers), I make do with swapping
the ports around manually. 4-port VNAs are not that common on the used
market at sensible prices.

For my planned antenna return loss measurements, I see your point, David, that 30 dB is probably excessive. Perhaps 25 dB +/- 3 dB is a more realistic goal. I wonder, at my target frequencies (up to 450 MHz), could i reach this goal if I built my own cal standards for open and short using N connectors?
At that frequency, your 25 dB +/- 3 dB can be met. The loads wont be a
problem, but I don't know of any way to make your own opens and shorts
in N which work well. I've spent a lot of time/trouble doing this
properly making use of a combination of 3D electromagnetic simulation,
measuements with a professional calibration kit, and custom software I
wrote to extract the parameters.

If you calibrate a VNA with a professional N calibration kit, (85032B,
85032F, etc) then measure the female open standard, you will find that
the point rotates clockwise around the Smith chart as the frequency is
increased, as theory says it should do. Then if you disconnect the
open standard, and just leave the cable open, you will find it goes
the other way! There is a MASSIVE difference between what the female
open standard in the firmware of your VNA to that which you will get
if you leave the cable open.

I designed and sell a reasonably priced cal kit (I'll do it 20% less
than those prices).



which includes

* Two opens
* Two shorts
* Two loads
* Male to male barrel, with known delay
* Female to female barrel with known delay
* Attenuator with S-parameters.
* Data on USB stick

Using the attenuator and the data on the USB stick, you can confirm
you get similar results of both magnitude and phase to a professional
VNA measuring the same attenuator.

Using the barrel connectors, and entering their delay as a
port-extension, it is possible to make measurements on non-interstable
devices like those with two female Ns or two male Ns. Lots of
components have just female Ns, and of course that screws you up since
you can't do a simple SOLT 2-port calibration with two male connectors
on your test leads, as there is no way to make the thru connection.

Generally I would suggest having a male plug on one test port cable
and a female on the other. Then you can do a thru calibration
joiinging them together with no adapter. If you want to measure
something with two female or two male connectors, then add a barrel
after the calibration and compensate for it by entering the delay of
the barrel.

More modern analyzers have other ways of getting around this problem.
My own HP 8720D VNA has a technique called "adapter removal" which
allows one to do this, and in fact will also cover the cases where one
device has SMA and another N. HOWEVER, it is a tedious process,
requiring two full 2-port calibrations. That's a LOT of standards to
connect and disconnect.

Even later analyzers have improved methods for this.

Thanks,
Bryan
Dave


Wanted 85054B type-N 18 GHz calibration kit for VNA

David Kirkby
 

Has anyone got one of these they want to sell? If so, please let me
know your price and send me some pictures. I want to see:

1) Overall picture of the complete kit.
2) Individual parts
3) List of part numbers printed on the devices.
4) Photo of underside of the box.
5) A photo showing the complete kit, with a picture of a cup or mug
there. This is so I can verify with a resonable degree of certainty
the item actually exists, and is the photo is not just copied off the
web.
6) Payment methods accepted.

Dave


Re: Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

Bob Stewart
 

I wouldn't touch it.? In fact, I wouldn't touch anything that wants me to pay in the equivalent of cash poked through a slot.? However, I've never dealt with them.

Bob

________________________________
From: David Kirkby <david.kirkby@...>
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 9:19 PM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?


?
I'm looking for an HP 85054B type-N 18 GHz calibration kit. A company
called Eglink in Korea says they have one, but they want the money
wired, and I'm not keen to do that. In fact Firefox wont even let me
look at the site without making an exception, as it is supposidly been
identified as a source of viruses



Certainly not my first choice when it comes to buying things, but I
might just consider it if I can find out more about this outfit.

Only recently I noticed that if an item is NOT bought on eBay, but
Paypal is used to pay for it, the buyer is only protected in a few
countries. The UK and USA are two of them, but it is quite a small
number. I once sent a few hundred Dollars to Hong Kong via Paypal.
Luckily it worked out OK, and I got the goods, but I later reailized I
had no comeback at all.

If the item is bought on eBay, then it is diffierent and I think
Paypal will cover the buyer irrespective of the location.

Dave




Anyone used Eglink in Korea for test equipment?

David Kirkby
 

I'm looking for an HP 85054B type-N 18 GHz calibration kit. A company
called Eglink in Korea says they have one, but they want the money
wired, and I'm not keen to do that. In fact Firefox wont even let me
look at the site without making an exception, as it is supposidly been
identified as a source of viruses



Certainly not my first choice when it comes to buying things, but I
might just consider it if I can find out more about this outfit.

Only recently I noticed that if an item is NOT bought on eBay, but
Paypal is used to pay for it, the buyer is only protected in a few
countries. The UK and USA are two of them, but it is quite a small
number. I once sent a few hundred Dollars to Hong Kong via Paypal.
Luckily it worked out OK, and I got the goods, but I later reailized I
had no comeback at all.

If the item is bought on eBay, then it is diffierent and I think
Paypal will cover the buyer irrespective of the location.



Dave


Re: Power indicator lamps.

 

I really don't know the current. The manual specifies the voltage as 6.3 but no current spec. I'm guessing 150 mA. There is nothing but a Boonton part number.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

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----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Forster" <jfor@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Power indicator lamps.


Try looking at, or calling, one of the internet bulb companies, like
BulbsDirect. You'll need the voltage, current, and OD.

They should be able to help.

Good luck,

-John

================


They have wire leads which are soldered to terminal strips.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site

Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

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----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Forster" <jfor@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Power indicator lamps.


Do you mean a 'wedge based lamp' Or possibly a Bi-Pin??

-John

==============



I know there was a thread about lamps within the last few days but I
didn't
pay much attention to it because it seemed to be about lamps in a
chopper
circuit. I am looking for the solder in power indicator lamps that
were
used in such pieces of equipment as the 712B power supply and the
Boonton
250A RX meter. The part containing the filament is spherical. There
is
no
metal base just a flat form where the leads come out. There is a name
for
this but I can't think of it. I don't want to mount bayonet sockets
and
use
number 47 lamps but if it comes to that I'll do it.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site

Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





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8657A Signal Generator Spare Parts

 

Dear All,

I wonder if you can help me with the spare parts needed to move the
RF-Output (hp 8657A, Option 002 Rear Panel RF Output) to the front panel.
Probably you have a parts unit, so that you can offer these parts to me.

What exactly I am looking for is the long semi-rigid cable on the left hand
side in this photo, including the N-Connector:
<>


According to the service manual, cable and N-connector should come in two
parts, SMA-connected:

- hp Part-No 08657-61006 9, SEMI-RIGID CABLE 2.18 SMA-NONE

- hp Part-No 5061-5386 0, CONN ASSY TYPE N

Additionally it would be helpful also getting the bracket to fix the
N-connector:

- hp Part-No 08656-00147, BRKT OUTPUT CONN

Because the semi-rigid cable connecting attenuator and F-connector is
damaged at the instrument I got recently, I would like to take the
opportunity moving the output connector to the front panel.

I am located in the EU (Austria), but the parts could be sent to an address
in NY, if that is easier for you.

Thanks for help.

Johann


Wanted, in UK: 16500B CPU board

 

All,

Having gone as far as I can in my attempts to upgrade the RAM in my 16500A logic analyzer, and found that it's a dead end with the early CPU board it has, I would like to fit a later CPU board to it to make it useful with the plugins I've got. I've experimented with the CPU board out of my 16500B (I've got one of each) and it seems to run fine in the 16500A chassis, now I've made an adapter cable for the video connection. I will clearly have to adapt the hard and floppy drives, but that can be done with parts I've got lying around.

Does anyone have a 16500B CPU board they would be prepared to part with? I'm happy to pay money, and trans-atlantic shipping if needed. There was one at a reasonable price on eBay recently but I missed it, sadly.

Thank you
Chris
Cambridge, UK


Re: Power indicator lamps.

J. Forster
 

Try looking at, or calling, one of the internet bulb companies, like
BulbsDirect. You'll need the voltage, current, and OD.

They should be able to help.

Good luck,

-John

================

They have wire leads which are soldered to terminal strips.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site

Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Forster" <jfor@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Power indicator lamps.


Do you mean a 'wedge based lamp' Or possibly a Bi-Pin??

-John

==============



I know there was a thread about lamps within the last few days but I
didn't
pay much attention to it because it seemed to be about lamps in a
chopper
circuit. I am looking for the solder in power indicator lamps that
were
used in such pieces of equipment as the 712B power supply and the
Boonton
250A RX meter. The part containing the filament is spherical. There
is
no
metal base just a flat form where the leads come out. There is a name
for
this but I can't think of it. I don't want to mount bayonet sockets
and
use
number 47 lamps but if it comes to that I'll do it.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site

Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



HP 973a multimeter successful fixing

 

Hello group,

Recently I sent a post about a problem with my digital multimeter ¨C malfunctioning when
measuring resistances. It shows wrong, higher than expected values and was very slow
to react. When crossing the probes I had 10-15 ohms. All the other functions apparently
was ok. So, with a friend of mine we decided , to follow the advices of some of you
and particularly ¨C Stan ( thank you Stan!). We first disassembled the rotary switch. The
contacts seemed clean but there was obviously some kind of transparent substance (lu
bricant?) over them. I've cleaned carefully with isopropyl alcohol and reassembled all. To
my surprise, everything was back to normal: exact resistance values, fast measurement,
when shorting the probes - 0,5-0,4 ohms. So, the rotary switch apparently participle in the
measurement process, and the resistance function is the first to be impaired when some
thing is wrong with contacts. Now I have a nice multimeter and calibrated! Thanks again
for the help.
All the best,
Simon


Re: Power indicator lamps.

 

They have wire leads which are soldered to terminal strips.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site
Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Forster" <jfor@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Power indicator lamps.


Do you mean a 'wedge based lamp' Or possibly a Bi-Pin??

-John

==============



I know there was a thread about lamps within the last few days but I
didn't
pay much attention to it because it seemed to be about lamps in a chopper
circuit. I am looking for the solder in power indicator lamps that were
used in such pieces of equipment as the 712B power supply and the Boonton
250A RX meter. The part containing the filament is spherical. There is
no
metal base just a flat form where the leads come out. There is a name for
this but I can't think of it. I don't want to mount bayonet sockets and
use
number 47 lamps but if it comes to that I'll do it.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O DS.

Email: max@...

Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site

Music site:

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...

To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: HP 477B Thermistor Mount

 

It very much depends on the measuring current too. But for an 478A measured with an ohm meter that sound ok to me (from memory...). Should be similar to a single 477A, no?
?
73 de Harke

--- On Mon, 3/11/13, curlytronics <curlytronics@...> wrote:


From: curlytronics <curlytronics@...>
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP 477B Thermistor Mount
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Monday, March 11, 2013, 1:31 AM



?



Does anyone know what room temperature resistance can be expected from a 477B thermistor mount (200 ohm, negative)?

The manual says 3000-4000 ohms. I have one that is 5380 ohms. Is this too high to work properly with a 430C, i.e. has this thermistor been damaged from being overpowered?

Curly


HELP: HP66319D schematic

 

Hi all,
I'm trying to rescue my HP66319D power supply. The trouble seems to be in an analog section, since I can still program voltage & current. Under load, the output still delivers the juice (even up to 3A), but becomes very noisy (noise bursts occurs every 1.8ms. If I connect 470uF accros the output, things got better.
The service manual seems to be non existant (This is even not orderable from Agilent). I don't know it the output section is similar to the HP66332A or HP66312A which service manuals exist on Agilent website.
Thank you in advance for your advice.
Bests
Lang


Re: LIF File Conversion.

 

Jay:

Indeed, that was the goal. And after I did that, I found that the file I had recovered was not an ASCII file, but a hex encoded tokenized basic file. This file was just as it was on the LIF diskette. So I was sucessful! But TransEra HT Basic will not read that file....

Dan in Chandler, AZ
==================================================

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "jayw_comark" <jayw_comark@...> wrote:

Hi Dane,

I doubt it as well. I thought your original goal was to save LIF floppy disk images to a Windows machine, and be able to write them to new disks.

Jay

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "danaz.chandler" <djn@> wrote:

Jay:

I'll try the Omniflop.

I doubt it will translate a basic file that is hex tokens into an ascii file.

Dan in Chandler, AZ

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "jayw_comark" <jayw_comark@> wrote:

Hi Dan,

I'd still give Omniflop a try. It's free, and it seems much easier to me. According to the website, it'd do exactly what you were looking for in terms of reading the disk, and saving the image to a Windows machine. Creating a new disk would consist of writing the image from the Windows machine back to a floppy disk.

Jay

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "danaz.chandler" <djn@> wrote:

Jay:

I have had success! This is what I learned:

* Use Agilent LIFUTIL to pull the file off the HP LIF diskette
^ Drive has to be built in so the floppy controller chip is able to be directly instructed by the software.
^ Has to be a FAT or FAT32 machine or the software barfs.
^ Often the file on the HP LIF diskette is a tokenized basic. This means that one or more hex values have been saved instead of the ascii text. So "GOTO" will be a HEX value.
# So far, the only way to convert an HP tokenized basic file to an ASCII file is to load it into a vintage HP series 300 computer and then re-save in the ascii format. The LIFUTIL has to be run to save the header information.

A lot of steps, but it is possible with help from our HP cloud to get important software off of LIF disks....

Dan in Chandler, AZ
================================================


--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "jayw_comark" <jayw_comark@> wrote:

A bit late to this discussion, but have you given this a try?


Jay

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "danaz.chandler" <djn@> wrote:


I need to convert software on a LIF 3.5" Floppy and save on a Windows 7 machine. All the utilities I have seen won't.
So, I thought....Load the diskette into my HP 4195A, bring up Vee Pro 9.2, install a panel driver and access the floppy that way.

However, I am such a novice with Vee, that I don't know how to transfer the file to my hard disk...Any pointers?

Dan in Chandler, AZ