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Re: 7562A Log Voltmeter/Converter

J. Forster
 

The heater is almost certainly for the log element in the FB loop. The
temp. stability is needed to stabilize the thing.

-John

===============

All discreet transistors and a few IC's ...Nice little power supply
...must be highly accurate as it has a "heater" (A5 Board) recommends
20-30 minute warm up. Converts AC/DC -IN to LOG out 80dB dynamic range,
auxiliary scope monitor . Hook two of them in series get LOG-LOG out

I'll send you a private email with scan of the description page.


Nice case for a project box



Dave & Lynn Henderson
ArtekMedia
Out-of-Print Technical Manuals
www.ArtekMedia.com
manuals@...
651-269-4265



David C. Partridge wrote:
Pending anyone turning up a manual for these, what are these good for
and
for that matter are they worth anything?

On another tack - are there any interesting things inside them (there
looks
to be an ovenised "something" in there)?

Cheers
Dave Partridge



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: 7562A Log Voltmeter/Converter

ArtekMedia
 

All discreet transistors and a few IC's ...Nice little power supply ...must be highly accurate as it has a "heater" (A5 Board) recommends 20-30 minute warm up. Converts AC/DC -IN to LOG out 80dB dynamic range, auxiliary scope monitor . Hook two of them in series get LOG-LOG out

I'll send you a private email with scan of the description page.


Nice case for a project box



Dave & Lynn Henderson
ArtekMedia
Out-of-Print Technical Manuals
www.ArtekMedia.com
manuals@...
651-269-4265



David C. Partridge wrote:

Pending anyone turning up a manual for these, what are these good for and
for that matter are they worth anything?
On another tack - are there any interesting things inside them (there looks
to be an ovenised "something" in there)?
Cheers
Dave Partridge
7562A Log Voltmeter/Converter

David C. Partridge
 

Pending anyone turning up a manual for these, what are these good for and
for that matter are they worth anything?

On another tack - are there any interesting things inside them (there looks
to be an ovenised "something" in there)?

Cheers
Dave Partridge
HP 141T extender cables

 

I've made my own using parts I got from Bill Perry (502-893-8724). He can supply all the connectors including the 13W3 connectors that have the coax contacts. He can also supply the contacts. Daniels does make the tool to remove the coax contacts, If I remember correctly it is a bit pricey ($40-$50). I can get the tool # if anybody is interested.

Geoff Greer KD8JSV
Re: 332A balance pots

ArtekMedia
 

Danger Will Robinson!...Danger!

I am assuming this is a metal case pot ( I've not seen the beast) ....if so "drilling" a small could introduce small conductive particles inside the pot .. got to be a better way

Dave & Lynn Henderson
ArtekMedia
Out-of-Print Technical Manuals
www.ArtekMedia.com
manuals@...
651-269-4265



arthurok wrote:

drill small holes in the cases and squirt in some caig calilube
----- Original Message -----
From: mike To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:35 AM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: 332A balance pots
Well it's just that either the last guy who cleaned them out epoxied them shut or they came glued like that from the factory. Mine is only suffering slight mistracking - needs a good clean but getting it open will be the trick...
Re: HP 7562A Log Voltmeter/Converter Manual

ArtekMedia
 

Dave

I have it ....contact me at manuals@... for details ......you can have either the original HP manual or a PDF copy

Dave
Artekmedia


Dave & Lynn Henderson
ArtekMedia
Out-of-Print Technical Manuals
www.ArtekMedia.com
manuals@...
651-269-4265



david_c_partridge wrote:

Does anyone have a manual for these?
Thanks
Dave
HP 7562A Log Voltmeter/Converter Manual

david_c_partridge
 

Does anyone have a manual for these?

Thanks
Dave
Re: 332A balance pots

 

drill small holes in the cases and squirt in some caig calilube

----- Original Message -----
From: mike
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:35 AM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: 332A balance pots


Well it's just that either the last guy who cleaned them out epoxied
them shut or they came glued like that from the factory. Mine is only
suffering slight mistracking - needs a good clean but getting it open
will be the trick...
Re: 332A balance pots

 

Well it's just that either the last guy who cleaned them out epoxied them shut or they came glued like that from the factory. Mine is only suffering slight mistracking - needs a good clean but getting it open will be the trick...
Re: Please Give Your Feed back about our product . It Really help ful to busines

 

Please, kick him strongly.

Quoting "victor.silva" <daejon1@...>:

Spammer should be kicked out!



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Re: Please Give Your Feed back about our product . It Really help ful to busines

 

Spammer should be kicked out!
Please Give Your Feed back about our product . It Really help ful to business

Antony
 

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Re: Source for 6 inch CRT Data monitors for HP 8590x and others?

 

Sorry to dreg up an old thread. I just got around to looking at the five LP0615E3Y CRT modules that I picked for $25/ea.
They went fast on ebay if you remember. There was some talk about these parts not being an exact match for HP859xE SAs.

Well I can say I have used two so far and they are an exact part match for my 8591E and 8594E. These units are even labelled internally with "Agilent P/N 2090-0539" and were manufactured sometime in 2003.

--Victor
Re: 182C CRT access

 

Hello,

On 9/23/09, erich_schlecht <schlechtca@...> wrote:






Francesco,

I have a 182T, but I think it works the same. The front of the plastic you can get up by pushing up the top of the frame and take out the contrast screen and RFI screen.

To get at the back (I think that is what you wanted), take off the top cover. There are four screws around the four corners of the tube. (You should make sure the 182 is un-plugged, and be careful around the tube). The screws come out in the direction toward the rear. The one on the right top also goes through an aluminum bracket that also supports the board connected to the right front panel.
yes, I then downloaded the service manual and found out there were
only 4 screws to remove.


Unfortunately, I can't see how to get at the right lower screw without taking the board off, which looks like a pain to me. Maybe you can figure it out...
I didn't need to remove any board, the bottom screws are accessible
with a long screw driver.
By the way, the original rubber foam (or whatever it was) surrounding
the CRT face turned into a sticky dusty mess. I'm not sure how to find
a replacement, but I'll think about something if everything else in
the display works (I'm not sure about the tube itself since without
this rubber ring it was moving around during all the shipment).

Thanks

Francesco IZ8DWF
Re: HP rf detectors

 

[jg]Thanks. That means I already have some diodes that will
be good enough to make
a 2 diode detector as Ed Lawrence WA5SWD mentioned or as in
for up
to 2.4GHz low power measurements.
Beware the fragility of these devices. The "burnout energy" of the 1N21 is
2 ergs in old money - a mere 200nJ in SI. They are very strictly square law
small signal detectors or mixers.

Craig
HP 83545A A7 PCB

James
 

Hello group. I received info from Samir, and a manual from Dave at Artek. I isolated the problem (no power output) to the A7 board. I have two 83545 so I was able to determine it is the A7 by substitution. There was one capacitor that showed bad on my ESR meter. I replaced all of the electrolytics with the hopes that would cure my problem. It did not.

Now I am looking for a replacement A7 board 83545-60062. Does anyone know of a source for one?

Also, does anyone have any experience in trouble shooting this board? I have the manual for the unit, and will crank up the scope when I get back from Chicago Sunday.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jim N0OBG
RE 141T or 140S Mainframe wanted - Unit Found

 

I have located a suitable 141T mainframe for my plugins.

Thanks to all,
Jim Sorenson
Re: Clock Doubler Design ideas

 

I never have used a slide rule. (I'm to young I guess) But it
looks like a fascinating thing. I have no clue how they work but I would love to learn it if it makes math more "visual" or logical

[...]
You are adding the log-scaled lengths by sliding the ruler, and reading the sum of the two lengths from the other ruler.

The fly in the ointment is if the numbers, for example, are 3 and 6, then the mark underneath "6" is "1.8". YOU must know the 3*6 is more than ten, and less than 100, to get the correct answer of 18. So the sliderule forces you to think about "orders of magnitude", makes you THINK about the numbers and the answer you're getting.
I have a pocket circular slide rule; it makes that part of the deal even easier. Depending on which way the answer wraps around (clockwise vs. counterclockwise), you shift the decimal point left/right. The back has an L/R/C/frequency nomogram, that you can write on with a pencil and erase with pencil eraser. Very, very convenient. For reasons that escape me at the moment, OS X's calculator takes longer to start up than getting the slide rule out of my pocket. Never mind actually typing the numbers into the calculator.

Cheers, Kuba
HP5370B - Plastic Panel Part Needed (Red acrylic display lens)

 

Does anyone have a spare, acrylic, red plastic LED display cover that they want to part with. I just purchased my 5370B and this plastic piece is badly cracked.


Thanks
Jim
WB5KYE
Re: 182C CRT access

 

Francesco,

I have a 182T, but I think it works the same. The front of the plastic you can get up by pushing up the top of the frame and take out the contrast screen and RFI screen.

To get at the back (I think that is what you wanted), take off the top cover. There are four screws around the four corners of the tube. (You should make sure the 182 is un-plugged, and be careful around the tube). The screws come out in the direction toward the rear. The one on the right top also goes through an aluminum bracket that also supports the board connected to the right front panel.

Unfortunately, I can't see how to get at the right lower screw without taking the board off, which looks like a pain to me. Maybe you can figure it out...

Good luck!

Erich

--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., francesco messineo <francesco.messineo@...> wrote:

Hello all,

I can't figure out the steps needed to access the front glass plate of
the CRT on a 182C display. I need to clean all the plastic covers AND
the CRT front plate.
I guess I need to remove the front plate of the instrument, but how?
Can anyone tell me the needed steps?
Thanks in advance and best regards

Francesco IZ8DWF
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