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It's all about, "Do you feel lucky?".. Tools sometimes break.

I have noticed that very often a confident rapid twist into the
flex of the wrench will cause the set screw to come loose, where
a slow, careful twist into the flex, will just break the wrench.

I have also found that a stuck set screw can often be loosened
by simply heating the screw. What I do, is use one of my long
needle pointed soldering iron tips, and stick it inside of the
hex of the set screw. A couple of seconds of heating is usually
all that is required.

After doing this, the key will turn right out with normal pressure.

Obviously, this will only work on metal screws in metal hubs...

-Chuck Harris



On Tue, 2 Jul 2024 06:15:24 -0700 "Radu Bogdan Dicher"
<vondicher@...> wrote:

A lot of great input, thank you all so much. I'm sure it will be
extremely valuable to anyone in this community in the future.

For now, I've tried the Wiha L-key and no go without unreasonably high
flexing of the key. I'll say that these L-key sets are extremely
affordable (for Wiha quality), but I'm pretty sure at this point I
will need to splurge on an actual bit for a driver or a standalone
screwdriver (far too much flexing at relatively low torque applied).

So I think I have no other way than getting some Kroil.
Unfortunately, as one gets used to "instant" delivery by large stores
(which don't have this for tomorrow, or today, as is the case with a
large number of their merchandise), and as we're heading into the
largest holiday in the US this week, it'll be a frustratingly long
time before I can get my hands on a can... Nothing I can do about
that.

But penetrating oil seems to be a must in this case. I've had a
relatively large number of HP units in my hand, some very old, others
not so much, but this is the most reluctant set of knobs I've had to
work with. Radu.

Hi Jeff,

If it is just a smoky coating, just rub it off with
a rag, but if it is a thicker crusty coating, naptha,
or lighter fluid works nicely.

One thing, after the coating happens, the surface of
the plastic seems to get softer than usual, so you
can mark it with a finger nail... So, don't get too
aggressive with it.

-Chuck Harris

On Mon, 1 Jul 2024 21:32:58 +0000 (UTC) "Jeff Kruth via groups.io"
<kmec@...> wrote:

What is the best way to remove said coating? I have tried many
methods and so far, found mechanical abrasion best. But there must be
a better way, maybe some solvent I havent tried yet, or something. I
have a LOT of "waxy" handles in scattered toolboxes around this
place.... Jeff Kruth In a message dated 7/1/2024 2:33:03 PM Eastern
Standard Time, cfharris@... writes:?The Cellulose Acetate
Butyrate breaks down to emit Butyric Acid, which is a fatty acid,
that is the very essence of dirty sweat socks, male goat, or barf.

On Jul 1, 2024, at 21:21, Daniel Koller via groups.io <kaboomdk@...> wrote:

?Hi Radu,

This is a very good question. I see a lot of recommendations for Wiha tools, but only one for Wera. I will second the recommendation for Wera. I've never tried the Wiha tools.

I will qualify my suggestion. I am referring in particular to the Wera Hex Plus line of drivers. These:


They have a unique shape that digs into the head and ensures that there is engagement. They are hardened steel, with the pattern ground at the tip, not rolled or formed or extruded like many other hex wrenches. These are the best I've seen.

I needed these because I was tasked at work with figuring out how to clamp waveguide blocks to reduce leakage and frequency shifts from warpage. I needed to determine the breaking torque of various types of stainless and black oxide finished steel screws. I found that in 0-80 screws, the failure point was the hex of the screw first, then after a few uses, the hex of the wrench, and usually not the body (thread) of the screw. This was true even of the relatively soft 318 stainless steel screws. Then I switched to the Wera drivers (insertable bits in a torque wrench with 1/4" socket drive) and I was finally able to snap the heads off the screws. The driver digs into the head and rips it right off! (The screws typically fail at the weak point just under the hear, or up to a few turns into the thread). This is the only way I was able to reach the stress limits of the screw itself.

You don't want to be ripping screws apart, but if you are undoing a set screw, you really don't want to strip the hex out before you loosen the screw. I think the Wera tools are your best chance at getting tough screws out.

Hope this helps.

Dan






On Sunday, June 30, 2024 at 11:51:29 AM EDT, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:





Hi all,
I'm often running into the situation where, trying to remove to replace knobs on HP (and any number of brands) units, I need to use very small hex or other types of bits which get ruined very easily, sometimes on first use. These bits are from sources such as Amazon, where very good assortments and sets are easily available. The steel they use may not be of top notch quality.

Is anyone aware of a source of hardened, extra-strength bits? Or maybe sets of drivers?

I am specifically asking for small bits typically needed for this kind of job. Impact-grade bits need not apply... At least I don't see an overlap in that Venn diagram.

For instance, for the HP 6236B knobs, I apparently need H1.3 bits. All of my tougher sets (Harbor Freight, etc.) go as low as 1.5, but not smaller. I ruined my Amazon set's H1.3, then tried a couple other types (which I also ruined), and I'm afraid I'm at this point ruining the knob's set screw.

Thank you,
Radu.