Re: HP 8757C SWP DAC Fail
Hello here you have the error code
Regards A.B.A Tecnhologies?
Hi,
I bought a broken HP8757C with backup battery leak problems.
The errors due to power supplies and broken tracks on the PCB have been resolved (I hope).
Only one error comes back to me: Error 01 > DAC BIT CHECK Fail > SWP DAC Fail 0000 00000 0010
I tried the whole procedure in the service manual but nothing comes of it.
All references and voltages are OK.
SWP DAC Fail 0000 00000 0010 -- Where can I look for this address?
I attach photos of the error.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Maurizio
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Hi, I bought a broken HP8757C with backup battery leak problems. The errors due to power supplies and broken tracks on the PCB have been resolved (I hope). Only one error comes back to me: Error 01 > DAC BIT CHECK Fail > SWP DAC Fail 0000 00000 0010 I tried the whole procedure in the service manual but nothing comes of it. All references and voltages are OK. SWP DAC Fail 0000 00000 0010 -- Where can I look for this address? I attach photos of the error. Thanks for any suggestions. Maurizio   
|
Re: Agilent 54622D with broken digital inputs - Fixable?
Thanks all! With the help of a friend who:
a) Is younger and has better eysight
b) Is in possession of better desoldering gear
c) Has more exeperience
We replaced both comparators (ch 8 and ch 1 broken). We noticed that the solderability of the chips was so-so, possibly because they were manufactured some 20 years ago. Wonder if there is a good procedure to restore solderability of old chips?
Anyway. These links ars good:
The latter has a post with ppin descriptions that should help with troubleshooting.
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Looking for 10K Potentiometer for HP 1404A Vertical Amplifier (HP P/N 2100-2828)
Anyone know where I might source a replacement for the POSITION controls in a 1404A? If I can't find the exact replacement, I could take the guts out of the same series pot. The POSITION control for each channel has a hollow shaft where the switch that enables the display and INVERT function to pass through to the switch behind the pot. If the exact pot isn't available, then the guts from a a Centralab pot like that one but, perhaps, without the hollow shaft could be swapped.
Full disclosure: I had disassembled this pot, cleaned it, and reassembled it but in the process, in an attempt to get the housing to be installed tightly enough so that it didn't rattle, I squeezed the small fingers too hard and cracked the phenolic on which the carbon track was placed so it is completely unusable.
One of the other POSITION controls is also misbehaving and, if I rotate it fully CCW, it shorts to ground. I plan to attempt to repair that one but will be very careful not to break this one too. I've repaired several pots like this and never broke one but those mostly had a plastic or fiber support for the carbon track. Of course the phenolic (or, maybe, bakelite?) is brittle and cracked without all that much pressure.
Thanks in advance for any help with this,
Barry - N4BUQ
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Re: HP6643A - Blows Fuse When Activated
Do check the rear panel strapping! It is a nice power supply!
Don Bitters
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
What typically happens to bronze sleeve bearings is two things: 1) the oil that impregnates the bronze foam runs short, and no longer wicks up to the shaft/bronze interface 2) the bronze without oil is abrasive, and wears away the steel shaft until it is small enough that it cannot be fully supported on a film of oil. This allows the shaft to rattle around in the bronze hole, making noise and doing more damage. When you oil up such a mess, the oil will not soak into the bronze "sponge", because the friction smears the bronze until all of the pores in its hole are closed. The oil in the now too large gap just gets slung away until it is once again dry and making noise. A new bronze/oilite bearing can be substituted, but you will probably find that one that is undersized enough to fit in the worn section of the shaft, will be too tight to fit over the un worn shaft. The solution is to reduce the shaft size just enough to fit through the new bearing... -Chuck Harris On Sun, 7 Apr 2024 13:59:11 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...> wrote: That sounds like some slick stuff. :)
At this point, I'm reasonably sure the problem is not lubrication but
just an inherent property of the fan.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
Greetings,
There may yet be a solution. There is a product called ¡°Energy
Release¡± Anti-friction Metal Conditioner. It is available at many
different places including Amazon.
More than twenty years ago I was introduced to this product by a
friend who became an ¡°Energy Release" independent dealer. I think
back then the company was perhaps just starting and they were
making their name through independent dealers who would go around
and demo the product.
I have used it as necessary on a wide variety of situations since
my friend showed the stuff to me. It doesn¡¯t take very much to
make a significant difference. The 8 fl. oz. Bottle listed on
Amazon should last a lifetime, probably more. I¡¯m still using from
the bottle I bought more than twenty years ago and it still works
just fine.
My friend had a demo machine where he would install a steel space
on a 1/4 HP motor arbor. He had a long handle that had a fixed
pivot point and he would bring it in contact with that space and
easily bring the motor to a dead stop. Then he would apply just a
little of the Energy Release to that steel spacer and try as hard
as he might he could not generate enough friction force to stop the
motor.
I was impressed and I have never been disappointed using it.
This might be worth a shot. If it doesn¡¯t resolve this situation I
am certain you will find many uses for it over the coming years.
Best wishers!
Ken
On Apr 6, 2024, at 10:43 PM, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
I finally got around to removing the fan motor. I was able to get
it apart and, unfortunately(?) it uses a bronze (oilite?) bushing.
There appeared to be sufficient oil on the shaft but I went ahead
and cleaned everything and applied some synthetic oil to be shaft,
bushing, and soaked the oil sponges with it. With the condition it
was in, I didn't expect much, if any improvement, and I wasn't
disappointed. I guess I'll just put up with the noise.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
Thanks, Chuck. The manual gives a procedure for lubricating the
motor but, so far, I cannot find the places where it states to
apply the oil. Apparently there should be holes to do that but I
don't see them. I think I will go ahead and remove the fan (it
needs a bit of cleaning anyway) and see if I can disassemble,
clean, lube, and reassemble it. Hopefully that will help/cure
most of the whine.
Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ
The whine is the ball bearings rolling on a not so smooth
race. The problem could be the metal of the race has been
brinelled by the balls smacking on it... kind of like little
ball peen hammers. Or it could be chunks of dried grease
making noise as they get into stuff.
Most people that try to lubricate these fans don't realize
that there are two ball bearings in the motor, one you can
easily see if you remove the label, and the other spring
loaded to the other side of the fan. You have to lube them
both.
The motors come apart pretty easy. Usually, there is a "C"
ring, or a plastic washer like piece that is clipped over
a groove in the bearing shaft. Remove it, and the fan, and
both bearings will pop right out.
Then remove one seal from each bearing, and wash them out with
naptha, or varsol, or gasoline... It only takes a little, and
blow them try. Don't let them spin very fast, as it will
Brinel the bearing races.
Put a little dab of lubriplate in the bearing, and you are good
to go. Don't pack them full, that only turns the bearing into
a grease pump, and makes everything turn slow, and get hot.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
-Chuck Harris
On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 15:42:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq"
<n4buq@...> wrote:
Do all the 140-series scopes have extremely noisy fans? My
140B is excessively noisy and I'm wondering if a different fan
could be substituted. I don't mind the wind noise all that
much, the whine that's associated with it is pretty obnoxious.
I haven't lubricated it yet but I suspect that won't really
knock down that whine very much (if at all). Looking for
suggestions.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
That sounds like some slick stuff. :)
At this point, I'm reasonably sure the problem is not lubrication but just an inherent property of the fan.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Greetings,
There may yet be a solution. There is a product called ¡°Energy Release¡±
Anti-friction Metal Conditioner. It is available at many different places
including Amazon.
More than twenty years ago I was introduced to this product by a friend who
became an ¡°Energy Release" independent dealer. I think back then the company
was perhaps just starting and they were making their name through independent
dealers who would go around and demo the product.
I have used it as necessary on a wide variety of situations since my friend
showed the stuff to me. It doesn¡¯t take very much to make a significant
difference. The 8 fl. oz. Bottle listed on Amazon should last a lifetime,
probably more. I¡¯m still using from the bottle I bought more than twenty years
ago and it still works just fine.
My friend had a demo machine where he would install a steel space on a 1/4 HP
motor arbor. He had a long handle that had a fixed pivot point and he would
bring it in contact with that space and easily bring the motor to a dead stop.
Then he would apply just a little of the Energy Release to that steel spacer
and try as hard as he might he could not generate enough friction force to stop
the motor.
I was impressed and I have never been disappointed using it.
This might be worth a shot. If it doesn¡¯t resolve this situation I am certain
you will find many uses for it over the coming years.
Best wishers!
Ken
On Apr 6, 2024, at 10:43 PM, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
I finally got around to removing the fan motor. I was able to get it apart and,
unfortunately(?) it uses a bronze (oilite?) bushing. There appeared to be
sufficient oil on the shaft but I went ahead and cleaned everything and applied
some synthetic oil to be shaft, bushing, and soaked the oil sponges with it.
With the condition it was in, I didn't expect much, if any improvement, and I
wasn't disappointed. I guess I'll just put up with the noise.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
Thanks, Chuck. The manual gives a procedure for lubricating the motor but, so
far, I cannot find the places where it states to apply the oil. Apparently
there should be holes to do that but I don't see them. I think I will go ahead
and remove the fan (it needs a bit of cleaning anyway) and see if I can
disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble it. Hopefully that will help/cure
most of the whine.
Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ
The whine is the ball bearings rolling on a not so smooth
race. The problem could be the metal of the race has been
brinelled by the balls smacking on it... kind of like little
ball peen hammers. Or it could be chunks of dried grease
making noise as they get into stuff.
Most people that try to lubricate these fans don't realize
that there are two ball bearings in the motor, one you can
easily see if you remove the label, and the other spring
loaded to the other side of the fan. You have to lube them
both.
The motors come apart pretty easy. Usually, there is a "C"
ring, or a plastic washer like piece that is clipped over
a groove in the bearing shaft. Remove it, and the fan, and
both bearings will pop right out.
Then remove one seal from each bearing, and wash them out with
naptha, or varsol, or gasoline... It only takes a little, and
blow them try. Don't let them spin very fast, as it will
Brinel the bearing races.
Put a little dab of lubriplate in the bearing, and you are good
to go. Don't pack them full, that only turns the bearing into
a grease pump, and makes everything turn slow, and get hot.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
-Chuck Harris
On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 15:42:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:
Do all the 140-series scopes have extremely noisy fans? My 140B is
excessively noisy and I'm wondering if a different fan could be
substituted. I don't mind the wind noise all that much, the whine
that's associated with it is pretty obnoxious. I haven't lubricated
it yet but I suspect that won't really knock down that whine very
much (if at all). Looking for suggestions.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
Greetings,
There may yet be a solution. There is a product called ¡°Energy Release¡± Anti-friction Metal Conditioner. It is available at many different places including Amazon.
More than twenty years ago I was introduced to this product by a friend who became an ¡°Energy Release" independent dealer. I think back then the company was perhaps just starting and they were making their name through independent dealers who would go around and demo the product.
I have used it as necessary on a wide variety of situations since my friend showed the stuff to me. It doesn¡¯t take very much to make a significant difference. The 8 fl. oz. Bottle listed on Amazon should last a lifetime, probably more. I¡¯m still using from the bottle I bought more than twenty years ago and it still works just fine.
My friend had a demo machine where he would install a steel space on a 1/4 HP motor arbor. He had a long handle that had a fixed pivot point and he would bring it in contact with that space and easily bring the motor to a dead stop. Then he would apply just a little of the Energy Release to that steel spacer and try as hard as he might he could not generate enough friction force to stop the motor.
I was impressed and I have never been disappointed using it.
This might be worth a shot. If it doesn¡¯t resolve this situation I am certain you will find many uses for it over the coming years.
Best wishers!
Ken
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 6, 2024, at 10:43 PM, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
I finally got around to removing the fan motor. I was able to get it apart and, unfortunately(?) it uses a bronze (oilite?) bushing. There appeared to be sufficient oil on the shaft but I went ahead and cleaned everything and applied some synthetic oil to be shaft, bushing, and soaked the oil sponges with it. With the condition it was in, I didn't expect much, if any improvement, and I wasn't disappointed. I guess I'll just put up with the noise.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
Thanks, Chuck. The manual gives a procedure for lubricating the motor but, so
far, I cannot find the places where it states to apply the oil. Apparently
there should be holes to do that but I don't see them. I think I will go ahead
and remove the fan (it needs a bit of cleaning anyway) and see if I can
disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble it. Hopefully that will help/cure
most of the whine.
Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ
The whine is the ball bearings rolling on a not so smooth
race. The problem could be the metal of the race has been
brinelled by the balls smacking on it... kind of like little
ball peen hammers. Or it could be chunks of dried grease
making noise as they get into stuff.
Most people that try to lubricate these fans don't realize
that there are two ball bearings in the motor, one you can
easily see if you remove the label, and the other spring
loaded to the other side of the fan. You have to lube them
both.
The motors come apart pretty easy. Usually, there is a "C"
ring, or a plastic washer like piece that is clipped over
a groove in the bearing shaft. Remove it, and the fan, and
both bearings will pop right out.
Then remove one seal from each bearing, and wash them out with
naptha, or varsol, or gasoline... It only takes a little, and
blow them try. Don't let them spin very fast, as it will
Brinel the bearing races.
Put a little dab of lubriplate in the bearing, and you are good
to go. Don't pack them full, that only turns the bearing into
a grease pump, and makes everything turn slow, and get hot.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
-Chuck Harris
On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 15:42:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:
Do all the 140-series scopes have extremely noisy fans? My 140B is
excessively noisy and I'm wondering if a different fan could be
substituted. I don't mind the wind noise all that much, the whine
that's associated with it is pretty obnoxious. I haven't lubricated
it yet but I suspect that won't really knock down that whine very
much (if at all). Looking for suggestions.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
I have a very high-quality fan with virtually the same form-factor that runs somewhere between 9VDC and 19VDC.? It moves a lot of air, even at 9VDC and is considerably quieter.? One day, I may swap it out (with, of course, an on-board DC supply mounted somewhere inside the scope).
I'll see if I can track down some of the fan numbers you list as well.? That might be a better option if they're 120VAC fans.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
From: "vee-dub565 via groups.io" <Vee-dub565@...>
To: "HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment" <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, April 7, 2024 1:46:31 AM
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 140 Series Fan Noise
Lots of interesting and useful replies here, not just for the HP 140 but in general. IMC boxer and Fulmar fans seem pretty common with older HP gear.
I'm sure HP did think about flow rates and static pressure, and both of these are certainly important, especially as previously mentioned with RF gear where a decent amount of static pressure is required to push air through small mesh grilles.
HP would have also had to pick a fan from a list of suppliers that met performance and cost. And they also would have accounted for worst case scenario like running 24/7 in 50deg heat in a rig.?
Sometimes its possible to lookup the part numbers and find direct, still available, replacements. For example...
HP 3160-0259 (110cfm) was replaced by 3160-0097 (80cfm), which itself is now replaced by 3160-0899 (80cfm)
?
3160-0899 = NMB?11938MB-A1N-EA
So even HP/Agilent themselves appear to have swapped out the original fan for a lower cfm one as a direct replacement part.
I've had no problems (yet) swapping out the 170cfm fan in my 8341b with a much quieter 130cfm version. My problem now is quietening down my 3335A.?
Speaking of the 3335A, I found part of the chassis/fan bracket was overlapping the blades of the fan. This created a lot of noise as air was drawn over the edge, trimming back the metalwork improved things.?
|
Re: Service Notes on HPWiki
Nice website! But I don't see anything about 8160A service notes. I already have a number of manuals in pdf form though.
Jared
|
Re: 8510C - calibration 3.5/sma
My understanding is that the red circled adapters are applied after you make a calibration and then apply one of those in case you have a different connector from the 3.5mm. This was my original question, but nobody raised any info on these modeled open adapters.
So, I guess, this is the procedure (for a 3.5mm kit):
1. make a full two port calibration
2. then apply one of those three red circled open corrections in the case the DUT has a different connector than 3.5mm
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
Lots of interesting and useful replies here, not just for the HP 140 but in general. IMC boxer and Fulmar fans seem pretty common with older HP gear.
I'm sure HP did think about flow rates and static pressure, and both of these are certainly important, especially as previously mentioned with RF gear where a decent amount of static pressure is required to push air through small mesh grilles.
HP would have also had to pick a fan from a list of suppliers that met performance and cost. And they also would have accounted for worst case scenario like running 24/7 in 50deg heat in a rig.?
Sometimes its possible to lookup the part numbers and find direct, still available, replacements. For example...
HP 3160-0259 (110cfm) was replaced by 3160-0097 (80cfm), which itself is now replaced by 3160-0899 (80cfm)
?
3160-0899 = NMB?11938MB-A1N-EA
So even HP/Agilent themselves appear to have swapped out the original fan for a lower cfm one as a direct replacement part.
I've had no problems (yet) swapping out the 170cfm fan in my 8341b with a much quieter 130cfm version. My problem now is quietening down my 3335A.?
Speaking of the 3335A, I found part of the chassis/fan bracket was overlapping the blades of the fan. This created a lot of noise as air was drawn over the edge, trimming back the metalwork improved things.?
|
Re: Service Notes on HPWiki
Jared, you should have a look . This guy found it in pdf.
Renaud
|
Re: HP 140 Series Fan Noise
I finally got around to removing the fan motor. I was able to get it apart and, unfortunately(?) it uses a bronze (oilite?) bushing. There appeared to be sufficient oil on the shaft but I went ahead and cleaned everything and applied some synthetic oil to be shaft, bushing, and soaked the oil sponges with it. With the condition it was in, I didn't expect much, if any improvement, and I wasn't disappointed. I guess I'll just put up with the noise.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Chuck. The manual gives a procedure for lubricating the motor but, so
far, I cannot find the places where it states to apply the oil. Apparently
there should be holes to do that but I don't see them. I think I will go ahead
and remove the fan (it needs a bit of cleaning anyway) and see if I can
disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble it. Hopefully that will help/cure
most of the whine.
Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ
The whine is the ball bearings rolling on a not so smooth
race. The problem could be the metal of the race has been
brinelled by the balls smacking on it... kind of like little
ball peen hammers. Or it could be chunks of dried grease
making noise as they get into stuff.
Most people that try to lubricate these fans don't realize
that there are two ball bearings in the motor, one you can
easily see if you remove the label, and the other spring
loaded to the other side of the fan. You have to lube them
both.
The motors come apart pretty easy. Usually, there is a "C"
ring, or a plastic washer like piece that is clipped over
a groove in the bearing shaft. Remove it, and the fan, and
both bearings will pop right out.
Then remove one seal from each bearing, and wash them out with
naptha, or varsol, or gasoline... It only takes a little, and
blow them try. Don't let them spin very fast, as it will
Brinel the bearing races.
Put a little dab of lubriplate in the bearing, and you are good
to go. Don't pack them full, that only turns the bearing into
a grease pump, and makes everything turn slow, and get hot.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
-Chuck Harris
On Tue, 2 Apr 2024 15:42:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:
Do all the 140-series scopes have extremely noisy fans? My 140B is
excessively noisy and I'm wondering if a different fan could be
substituted. I don't mind the wind noise all that much, the whine
that's associated with it is pretty obnoxious. I haven't lubricated
it yet but I suspect that won't really knock down that whine very
much (if at all). Looking for suggestions.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
|
Re: Anyone with a 3586B A80 board?
I sell a reproduction of the A80 board for these units, on a built-to-order basis.
Due to component cost increases since that post, the boards are now $140 for the assembled version. Blank boards are still $45. These are a built-to-order item, and ship ~ 2 weeks after receipt of order, depending on turnaround time from my PCB vendor and parts suppliers.
73,
Bob Weiss N2IXK
|
Re: HP6643A - Blows Fuse When Activated
Could be a lot of things.? The manual is available on the web.? At quick glance it seems when the supply is "on" before being enabled, the main transformer and rectifiers are live.? You can verify by measuring at the main electrolytics.
My guess is something is wrong with the pass elements and the supply crowbars but doesn't limit current and the fuse takes over.? You may be able to max out the crowbar OVP limit and not blow the fuse but that won't solve the problem.
You could wire an incandescent bulb in place of the fuse so you don't keep blowing them.? Find a wattage that will allow the supply to boot, but then light up when the short occurs.
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/6/2024 9:48 PM, Harvey White wrote: if the fuse blows when activated, then something downstream of the fuse, (once activated) is likely a short.? Assuming that the high amperage fuse blows roughly as fast as the low amperage fuse (don't try to measure it......) then you're likely looking at a dead short downstream of the fuse.
Harvey
On 4/6/2024 7:18 PM, Michael Yellin wrote:
Mates,
Recently acquired an HP 6643A.? When the unit is plugged in and turned on, it boots, and seems fine.? However, as soon as the unit is "activated" to generate voltage and amperage, the glass fuse blows.? I don't have an endless supply of fuses, but I have tried some very low and very high voltage and amperage settings, but that made no difference (I didn't think it would, but well, it made me feel better to try)? Opened her up, looked around, and everything appears fine, no burnt parts, no bulging caps, no melted wires, and nothing obviously shorted.? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong, or can send me down a path to try and resurrect the thing.
TIA
Michael
|
Re: HP6643A - Blows Fuse When Activated
if the fuse blows when activated, then something downstream of the fuse, (once activated) is likely a short.? Assuming that the high amperage fuse blows roughly as fast as the low amperage fuse (don't try to measure it......) then you're likely looking at a dead short downstream of the fuse.
Harvey
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/6/2024 7:18 PM, Michael Yellin wrote: Mates,
Recently acquired an HP 6643A.? When the unit is plugged in and turned on, it boots, and seems fine.? However, as soon as the unit is "activated" to generate voltage and amperage, the glass fuse blows.? I don't have an endless supply of fuses, but I have tried some very low and very high voltage and amperage settings, but that made no difference (I didn't think it would, but well, it made me feel better to try)? Opened her up, looked around, and everything appears fine, no burnt parts, no bulging caps, no melted wires, and nothing obviously shorted.? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong, or can send me down a path to try and resurrect the thing.
TIA
Michael
|
Re: Anyone with a 3586B A80 board?
Matt sorry to hear the issue and yes indeed lots of risk these days. I was going to say homebrew a replacement. Without that Da$% leaky battery. It shouldn't be to bad. I have had to do that for other HP gear like the 3335 sig gen. It's great when it comes back alive.? Ok caution. If the leakage from the battery hit the motherboard?its seriously has to be cleaned up down to scraping the board. My experience?was with the actual regulator board and the?stuff conducts very well. I thought I had it cleaned at least visually but had super strange results. Thats when I discovered trace to trace leakage was the issue. Digging out the traces carefully cleared the?issue completely. The stuff even gets under resistors. Good luck. Paul WB8TSL
|
HP6643A - Blows Fuse When Activated
Mates,
Recently acquired an HP 6643A.? When the unit is plugged in and turned on, it boots, and seems fine.? However, as soon as the unit is "activated" to generate voltage and amperage, the glass fuse blows.? I don't have an endless supply of fuses, but I have tried some very low and very high voltage and amperage settings, but that made no difference (I didn't think it would, but well, it made me feel better to try)? Opened her up, looked around, and everything appears fine, no burnt parts, no bulging caps, no melted wires, and nothing obviously shorted.? Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong, or can send me down a path to try and resurrect the thing.
TIA
Michael
|
Re: 8510C - calibration 3.5/sma
I would think that they are corrections for the open in the cal kit. By any chance did you not use the small insert pin with the open?
I have used the 8510C, but am not an expert by any stretch. There are others on this forum that have more knowledge.
Don Bitters
|
Hb9ica
maurit
Anders
Jared Cabot