Horror!?Just like scraping “La Gioconda” for the paint…?like scraping “La Gioconda” for the paint…

Hi Tom,

thanks for the help. I agree with you.

However, my concern is the following: my cal kit is 3.5mm (it is in a fairly good condition) and the calibration assumes I also have the 3.5mm port cables (obviously HP sold you the 8510C with its 26.5GHz 3.5mm cal kit along with the 3.5mm port cables). However, I do not have the 3.5mm port cables, but SMA cables. Therefore there is a 3.5mm/SMA interface. I've seen the adaptor element in the HP cal kit table, what is the use of it?

Thanks!

Hi, I'm looking for the knob for hp8565a
frequency span/div manual code 08565-60043
--
thank
Roberto

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Hi Mark

Attached is a scan of the dial from my parts machine, its not perfect as it has black dot marks on it, but it may be a start for you. Its currently in PDF but if you want it scanned in some other format let me know, you may be able to edit the worst marks out.

Cheers? Steve.?

Meant M2 plugin, sorry.?

Any chance someone here has a PDF of the manual for these things? I've found some hard copies on eBay so that might be a last resort, but if I can avoid spending $50AUD just for curiosity that'd be nice

I can't even remember when or where I picked this thing up (I suspect in a bulk lot at some point), it's been on the shelf for years but recently I finally found a power cable for it and gave it a test to find it does in fact work.?

There really doesn't seem to be much info out there about these things, but it looks pretty handy for a handful of tasks

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It's Official!

We now have more than Keysight has on their dedicated Service Notes site () - over 4000!

Hi Leon,

it depends on how accurately you know the properties of your cal elements.
Do you still have the kit parameters of the manufacturer?
If so, do the standards still obey these parameters, i.e. not worn, clean?
Cables are another issue. Are your test cables stable when you move them, i.e. amplitude stability, phase stability?
As far as I have found out, the 8510C assumes the load standard to be ideal. Thus, the return loss of your load will limit accuracy of measured reflection coefficients near the 50 Ohms point, while short and open will impact high reflection coefficients.
Transmission is yet another story.
Sorry, no simple answers possible.

Best regards,
Tom

Hello group!

Is there anyone here using the 8510C with a mechanical 3.5 kit?

I have a mechanical 3.5mm 26.5GHz cal kit, but my port cables are 18GHz SMA.

What is the proper calibration sequence for such a setup? And what kind of performance can I expect (Sxx levels)?

Many thanks,
Leon

PS: I've sent the same message to the svna group weeks ago, but the moderator probably denied it, since it never came through, no help there.

Unfortunately, the gold plating on the many boards in these makes them a target of the gold scrappers.

I am lucky to have one of these generators in excellent condition with the 020 option and use it from time to time.

Peter

As usual, any contribution/correction welcome. Thanks

I think the problem is not really correctable given the
circumstances of a system that injects power back into
the grid.

The problem is that losses are against you. When you draw
from the grid, your transformer and wiring all drops the
voltage down from the voltage generated by the power
plant, down to the nominal voltage that you expect to
see at your house.

But, when you inject power back into the grid, you have to
overcome the losses of your transformer, wire, etc. before
you can actually feed the grid with your power. That
necessarily requires you to pump more voltage into the grid
than the nominal power line voltage that you would expect
to see in your house.

Further, because of other issues in the grid (automatic station
voltage regulators...), your solar power can only feed other
subscribers on your local transformer. That is too small of
a population to allow you to avoid a race to the maximum voltage
and beyond.

You see, your inverter wants to feed excess power to the grid,
so it has to raise its voltage until it starts to take up load
from the grid. But, your neighbor's solar inverter wants to
do the same thing, so it has to raise its voltage until it
starts to take up load from the grid, which causes your inverter
to shed load, so it cranks the voltage up... and you are in an
arms race.

If you set your inverter so that it cannot raise your local
(house) voltage until it is high enough to allow you to
actually supply power to the grid, you will never supply
power to the grid.

Your best bet is to use a variac, or other step down auto
transformer to drop your workbench voltage down to a safe
value.

-Chuck Harris


On Sun, 31 Mar 2024 19:15:20 -0400 "Harvey White"
<madyn@...> wrote:

Someplace, somewhere, you might be able to find a voltage regulator.
I suspect that they can be either the saturable reactor kind, or
perhaps an old servo/motor driven autotransformer.? It's possible you
might just want to knock down the 240-250 to 230-240, which might be
more in line to what the equipment expects.

Harvey


On 3/31/2024 7:01 PM, glenn percy via groups.io wrote:

Hi Harvey

*Afraid not.*?? Solar panels are very popular in Australia with at
least 1/3rd of homes having roof top solar panels.? In my street of
about 30 homes more than half have solar.

What this tends to do on sunny days, with so much solar energy in a
street is to push up the nominal 230v mains voltage to sometimes in
excess of 250v.

Glenn
vk3pe

Yes, I'm sure solutions do exist.?? I'm more likely to either find higher rated caps or just leave them out.
Glenn

Someplace, somewhere, you might be able to find a voltage regulator.? I suspect that they can be either the saturable reactor kind, or perhaps an old servo/motor driven autotransformer.? It's possible you might just want to knock down the 240-250 to 230-240, which might be more in line to what the equipment expects.

Harvey

Hi Harvey

Afraid not.?? Solar panels are very popular in Australia with at least 1/3rd of homes having roof top solar panels.? In my street of about 30 homes more than half have solar.

What this tends to do on sunny days, with so much solar energy in a street is to push up the nominal 230v mains voltage to sometimes in excess of 250v.?

Glenn
vk3pe

All of my 19" racks have mounting holes front and back, as usual,
but also have mounting holes on the sides as well.

I drill pieces of 1-1/2" aluminum angle to fit the mounting holes on
the side when the 19" instrument lines up with an appropriate set of
holes on the front.

Then, you can just slide the instrument onto the full depth angle
slides, and you can also use the screw holes in the front panel for
added security.

The aluminum angles easily handle a couple of hundred pounds each
pair. The heaviest thing I have mounted that way is a FLUKE linear
amplifier, 5205A. It weighs a cool 120lbs.

-Chuck Harris


On Sat, 30 Mar 2024 17:28:24 -0400 "Peter Gottlieb"
<hpnpilot@...> wrote:

I use equipment shelves that only mount from the front, but the one
you show is better mechanically.? Where do you get them?? Do you have
a part number?

Pter


On 3/30/2024 5:23 PM, Dave Miller wrote:

I have run out of floor and bench space and it's time start filling
up the racks I have stored away. :-(
Unfortunately most of the equipment does not have mounting ears.
Last time I looked at them they are hard to find and very expensive.
What's everyone thoughts about using 4 post ventilated shelves like
this?


They are rated 120 kg a shelf.
I can source them locally cheaper and faster than a set out
mounting ears on Fleabay with shipping. And I can adjust the height
instead of getting multiple sizes of ears.
It's also easier to wrestle something on a shelf than mount it in a
rack with screws. Or at least that is my limited experience.
And If I want put another piece in rack it seems easier.
What do the experts have to say?
Thanks
Dave
VE7HR