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Date
Re: Slightly OT: VNA test cables

 

Hi Tobias,

I do not know how they mount the pin to the cable, but I could imagine the whole assembly has a limited number of mate/demates (maybe 1?)
So, they will not guarantee performance up to 40 GHz, and because of "commercial reasons" will not do it -> "I got it repaired, but now it's not perfect anymore."

One could always try a "hack-a-fix", like I did with a 2,92 mm Attenuator:

(Sorry, German only, but pictures should be self-explanatory)
In your case by salvaging another 2,92 mm connector.

All I experienced so far was: Cable broken -> To the bin.
Never seen somebody actually repairing a pre-assembled test-port-cable in a professional context.

Best Regards,
Martin

Am Do., 18. Juli 2019 um 09:40?Uhr schrieb Tobias Pluess <tobias.pluess@...>:

Hi Guys,
I have a slightly OT question.

We use at work a 40 GHz VNA and have microwave test cables with 2.92mm connectors from a well-known cable manufacturer whose name starts with G. Now, a colleague managed to break off one of the contact fingers of the female conductor, so this connector is actually damaged and useless. To me, the connector looks like it can be dismantled and the contacts can be exchanged; so I quoted the manufacturer for a repair of the connector or spare parts so we can do it by ourselves. However, they told me that it cannot be repaired and they don't sell spare parts; if something is damaged, I shall buy a new cable. Well, one of those microwave test cables costs around 2200$, so I am a bit pissed that I should buy a new cable when only a contact finger of a female conductor is broken.
So I wonder:
a) is this normal? what do you do if something from such a connector breaks? I know it should not happen and they should be treated with extreme care, but accidents happen sometimes...
b) or is it only for the "cheap" cables that they don't repair them? I think not repairing such an expensive cable is quite dubious and if I need to buy a new cable I will for sure evaluate another manufacturer which is more trustworthy, like Huber+Suhner.

Have you ever seen that a connector on a microwave VNA test cable got damaged, and what did you do?

Best
Tobias

Slightly OT: VNA test cables

 

Hi Guys,
I have a slightly OT question.

We use at work a 40 GHz VNA and have microwave test cables with 2.92mm connectors from a well-known cable manufacturer whose name starts with G. Now, a colleague managed to break off one of the contact fingers of the female conductor, so this connector is actually damaged and useless. To me, the connector looks like it can be dismantled and the contacts can be exchanged; so I quoted the manufacturer for a repair of the connector or spare parts so we can do it by ourselves. However, they told me that it cannot be repaired and they don't sell spare parts; if something is damaged, I shall buy a new cable. Well, one of those microwave test cables costs around 2200$, so I am a bit pissed that I should buy a new cable when only a contact finger of a female conductor is broken.
So I wonder:
a) is this normal? what do you do if something from such a connector breaks? I know it should not happen and they should be treated with extreme care, but accidents happen sometimes...
b) or is it only for the "cheap" cables that they don't repair them? I think not repairing such an expensive cable is quite dubious and if I need to buy a new cable I will for sure evaluate another manufacturer which is more trustworthy, like Huber+Suhner.

Have you ever seen that a connector on a microwave VNA test cable got damaged, and what did you do?

Best
Tobias
Re: HP active probe power connector availability?

 

Here it comes

dp/1122804
Its not an exact replacement,but easy to modify--many use them this way.
Could someone post a link to the lemo chinese link?
Hardy

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] P? vegne af hardyhansendk
via Groups.Io
Sendt: 18. juli 2019 07:02
Til: [email protected]
Emne: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP active probe power connector
availability?

Hi
We have talked about this plug several times--as i recall its made by
-binder-,
When home i will look up the parts nr,---have made several myself,
Regards
Hardy

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] P? vegne af John Griessen
Sendt: 18. juli 2019 06:28
Til: [email protected]
Emne: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP active probe power connector
availability?

On 7/17/19 2:24 PM, radioconnection@... wrote:
I? may be picking up a used HP active probe and I notice they require a
dual voltage supply with an odd three pin power
connector.? Since they are so costly, I was going to make my own.? Does
anyone know if DigiKey or Mouser carries that connector
and what it is?

They may, but there is a Chinese Lemo copy that is OK.
You're looking for a 3 pin, not the 4 pin that Tek scopes use, right?

Ask me off list and I'll dig up my 4 pin, (half moon), source and you can
try them out for that one.

--
John





---
Denne mail er kontrolleret for vira af AVG.
Re: HP active probe power connector availability?

 

Hi
We have talked about this plug several times--as i recall its made by
-binder-,
When home i will look up the parts nr,---have made several myself,
Regards
Hardy

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] P? vegne af John Griessen
Sendt: 18. juli 2019 06:28
Til: [email protected]
Emne: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP active probe power connector
availability?

On 7/17/19 2:24 PM, radioconnection@... wrote:
I? may be picking up a used HP active probe and I notice they require a
dual voltage supply with an odd three pin power
connector.? Since they are so costly, I was going to make my own.? Does
anyone know if DigiKey or Mouser carries that connector
and what it is?

They may, but there is a Chinese Lemo copy that is OK.
You're looking for a 3 pin, not the 4 pin that Tek scopes use, right?

Ask me off list and I'll dig up my 4 pin, (half moon), source and you can
try them out for that one.

--
John





---
Denne mail er kontrolleret for vira af AVG.
Re: HP active probe power connector availability?

 

On 7/17/19 2:24 PM, radioconnection@... wrote:
I? may be picking up a used HP active probe and I notice they require a dual voltage supply with an odd three pin power connector.? Since they are so costly, I was going to make my own.? Does anyone know if DigiKey or Mouser carries that connector and what it is?

They may, but there is a Chinese Lemo copy that is OK.
You're looking for a 3 pin, not the 4 pin that Tek scopes use, right?

Ask me off list and I'll dig up my 4 pin, (half moon), source and you can try them out for that one.

--
John
Re: 11713A Attenuator/Switch Driver (connectors)

 

Good catch Steve - I did not see that. Found the pins on ebay ($25 for 25 items!) but will try a request for samples.

Mark
Re: 11713A Attenuator/Switch Driver (connectors)

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mark,

CDM has a minimum order of 250 pieces for the connector and 100 pieces for the pins. A lifetime supply and then some. Have you tried asking them for a sample of the pins? You might get lucky. If not it¡¯s cheaper to buy a parts unit that place a minimum order at CDM!

Steve
WB0DBS



On Jul 17, 2019, at 4:02 PM, Mark Bielman <mbielman@...> wrote:

Hello Group. Picked up one of these units a while back for testing attenuators and during initial testing noted that one of the outputs did not activate the solenoid. Figured it was a blown driver transistor. Many moons later decided to track it down but everything looked AOK. After more inspection and continuity tests, discovered that there was a missing/broken pin on one of the Viking connectors! Took some doing but I think I found them... they do NOT come as a single item tho.

Here's the shell, p/n TBR12-101P


And the pins are sold separately, p/n DP-100AU


Available here:

Wondering if anyone has made such a repair. Are the pins easily replaced? Maybe buy a shell with (maybe 15) pins rather than just a few pins?

thx

Mark

Re: HP active probe power connector availability?

 

I may have one of those power supplies that I could sell you. Standard HP manufacture, 4 outlets using the funny 3-pin connector.?

Jeremy?
N6WFO


On Wed, Jul 17, 2019 at 12:24 PM <radioconnection@...> wrote:
I? may be picking up a used HP active probe and I notice they require a dual voltage supply with an odd three pin power connector.? Since they are so costly, I was going to make my own.? Does anyone know if DigiKey or Mouser carries that connector and what it is???

Thanks

--
Jeremy Nichols
6.
11713A Attenuator/Switch Driver (connectors)

 

Hello Group. Picked up one of these units a while back for testing attenuators and during initial testing noted that one of the outputs did not activate the solenoid. Figured it was a blown driver transistor. Many moons later decided to track it down but everything looked AOK. After more inspection and continuity tests, discovered that there was a missing/broken pin on one of the Viking connectors! Took some doing but I think I found them... they do NOT come as a single item tho.

Here's the shell, p/n TBR12-101P


And the pins are sold separately, p/n DP-100AU


Available here:

Wondering if anyone has made such a repair. Are the pins easily replaced? Maybe buy a shell with (maybe 15) pins rather than just a few pins?

thx

Mark
HP active probe power connector availability?

 

I? may be picking up a used HP active probe and I notice they require a dual voltage supply with an odd three pin power connector.? Since they are so costly, I was going to make my own.? Does anyone know if DigiKey or Mouser carries that connector and what it is???

Thanks
Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312

 

Best to find a 5315A/B with a battered case, or blown input and rob that. Even a tidy 5316A does not cost a lot these days. Don't forget to check all power supplies carefully, I would not expect both chips to fail without some external cause.

Robert G8RPI.
Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Kevin,

The chips in both counters (5315A/B and 5316A) have the same 1820-xxxx part-numbers, hence they ARE identical. AFAIK, there's never been an exception to this rule ! In addition, the feature sets for the two models, and the user instructions are exactly the same.?

Now of course, the hard part is finding replacement chips !

Joel Setton

Re: (Slightly OT) More HP-16C programs/examples?

 

On Tue, Jul 16, 2019 at 03:29 AM, Paul Berger wrote:

You may want to check the program libraries at MoHPC The forums are also a good place to ask questions as it has a large audience of HP calculator users.

Paul.

Thanks! I don't know how I hadn't stumbled onto their program library yet.

Sean
Re: HP5335A rough calibration

 

There were repair kits for the original fuse failures, which consisted of 2 capacitors and the new fuse. I probably have a copy of the service note. The original fuse is socketed and the new fuse can simply put into the socket pins. Add/replace the new parts to the circuit card. For those that had to be soldered in, I used a temp controlled soldering iron and simply took the precaution to minimize the iron time on the joints. I never had a repeat fuse failure on any oven I repaired. I would not replace the fuse with any thing larger in current or above the temp limit. The fuse in the heater circuit is there to protect the oven and insure it does not exceed its operating temp limit. When the ovens exceed their temp limits - thermal runaway, the insulating foam deteriorates, the outside can becomes discolored - heat bluing, and often the crystal is often stressed and probable will be out of tolerance, unstable in the future.
Don Bitters
looking for HP knobs p/n 0370-0102

 

I'm looking for two HP knobs, both part number 0370-0102. An example
of this knob is the 0.5" bar + pointer knob used on the HP 6205B power
supply, as the smaller knob on left and upper right range control
switches on the upper left and upper right.

I've seen some of these in black and some in red, and I'm not sure if
they have different part numbers. I don't really care what color I get
as long as the two I get are the same.

Globaltest has a red one in stock at a reasonable price, so if someone
here also has one available in red, that'd work.

Anybody gots?

Thanks,
-Dave

--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
Re: HP5335A rough calibration

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Dan,

?

I suspect the fuse serves two purposes, both electrical (1A) and thermal (115C).? I would favor replacing with one of same ratings, or at least as close as you can get.

?

I also seem to remember that the fuse fits in a ¡®socket¡¯ (or more precisely, two ¡®sockets¡¯).? However, it¡¯s been years since I¡¯ve seen the inside of a 10811.? If indeed soldered, I would favor the use of a hemostat as a ¡®heatsink¡¯ and being very fast.

?

Good luck.

?

Joe

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dan Nessett via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 4:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP5335A rough calibration

?

I have finally got around to attempting to fix my HP 11811. I took off the cover and as many suggested the thermal fuse is the problem. It is an open circuit. I looked at the link provided by Don Bitters (thanks for that) and read through the instructions. I have two questions that I hope others might help me answer. First, the fuse chosen by Simon was a 109 degree C 10A cut-off. I poked around and found that the original part was rated for 115 degree C at 1A (see ?fifth post down by J. L. Trantham). I found some 115 degree C 2A fuses, which I have ordered (EYP-2BN110) from ebay. I am not sure why Simon chose 10A (probably, the only ones he could find at the time), but if there was a reason for 10A and not 1A or 2A and someone can fill me in, that would be appreciated.

?

The other question is more important. In Simon's post, he states: "An exact match for the thermal fuse could not be found, so just soldered in (very carefully, cooling the case and leads!) a 10 Amp 109 degC fuse." The key to this repair is "very carefully, cooling the case and leads!)" However, he does not give any detailed advice how to execute this instruction. I looked on the internet for guidance how to solder thermal fuses and found two Youtube videos. The first submerged the leads of the thermal fuse in water before soldering them to wire leads. The other used an infrared camera to monitor the temperature of the leads while soldering them. I don't have an infrared camera and submerging the thermal fuse leads in water isn't going to work with the confined space that exists on the 11811. So, can anyone give me some advice how to keep the temperature of the fuse leads below 115 degrees C while soldering? In other words, in detail how do you cool the case and leads while soldering in the fuse?

?

Dan Nessett
Re: HP5335A rough calibration

 

On Tue, Jul 16, 2019 at 3:59 PM Dan Nessett via Groups.Io
<dnessett@...> wrote:
The other question is more important. In Simon's post, he states: "An exact match for the thermal fuse could not be found, so just soldered in (very carefully, cooling the case and leads!) a 10 Amp 109 degC fuse." The key to this repair is "very carefully, cooling the case and leads!)" However, he does not give any detailed advice how to execute this instruction.
I have replaced these in several appliances, and have not found it to
be a big deal. A hemostat between the thermal fuse body and soldering
iron was sufficient. Buy a couple of spare parts in case you mess up
the first one.
Re: HP 8340a Synth. Sweeper A53 -40V F2 blowout question

 

Very nice scans, thank you

Steve kc4sw

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
<[email protected]> On Behalf Of Tobias Pluess
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 2:11 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 8340a Synth. Sweeper A53
-40V F2 blowout question

Hi Guys,

having repaired an 8341A myself, I know it is a very complex bit of
electronics. So, repairing it without having full and accurate service
manuals with readable schematics is "poking in the fog", as we would say in
german.
Unfortunately, the manuals currently available on the web are either not
complete, unreadable, or not for the 8341A / 8340A (the 8341A and 8340A are
AFAIK the same machines, the only difference is the output connector and the
frequency range; so the 8340A is actually an 8341A with selected
components).
I had access to the complete service manuals in paper form (these are also
very rare on the 'bay!), and I already started making scans of them last
year. A friend of mine completed the scans, and I merged the PDFs (using
LaTeX, it was quite a hassle but I think the result is acceptable) and OCRed
them. I just uploaded the schematics to my web server. Here you go:

Volume 1:

ate_PerfTest.pdf

Volume 2:

stment_Parts.pdf

Volume 3:

e.pdf

Volume 4:

e.pdf

I would not go so far and say the PDFs are perfect, but at least they are
for the 8340/1A AND readable AND complete. It should also help
troubleshooting the power supply problems. In my opinion, it may be possible
that it is a flaky tantaulum cap because I recently repaired a 5335A counter
which didn't power on. Its power supply was shorted by a tantalum cap, and
the cap didn't even get hot because its resistance was so incredibly low.
Further, it could also be a shorted feedthru capacitor on the YIG oscillator
like it was the case in my repair. The YIG main coil is connected on one
side to -40V as far as I remember. See Vol 3, page 210 and 220. The YO
driver is A55 on page 261. The power supply starts on page 314, vol. 4.

I hope the PDFs will be helpful for others.

Best
Tobias
HB9FSX

________________________________________
From: [email protected]
[[email protected]] on behalf of David Slipper
[softfoot@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 18:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 8340a Synth. Sweeper A53
-40V F2 blowout question

I have certainly had them explode when near the rated voltage - I have a
burn scar on my hand from a flying fragment.

Always wear safety glasses - at least for the first few power-ups.


On 16/07/2019 17:27, Dale H. Cook wrote:
On 7/16/2019 11:07 AM, Chuck Harris wrote:

Tantalum capacitors are among the most reliable ...
The failures tend to happen when they are operated at a voltage too
close to the rated voltage.
That has certainly been my experience.
Re: HP5335A rough calibration

 

On 7/16/19 4:59 PM, Dan Nessett via Groups.Io wrote:
submerging the thermal fuse leads in water isn't going to work with the confined space that exists on the 11811. So, can anyone give me some advice
Wrap with wet strips of cloth.
Re: HP5335A rough calibration

Dan Nessett
 

I have finally got around to attempting to fix my HP 11811. I took off the cover and as many suggested the thermal fuse is the problem. It is an open circuit. I looked at the link provided by Don Bitters (thanks for that) and read through the instructions. I have two questions that I hope others might help me answer. First, the fuse chosen by Simon was a 109 degree C 10A cut-off. I poked around and found that the original part was rated for 115 degree C at 1A (see ?fifth post down by J. L. Trantham). I found some 115 degree C 2A fuses, which I have ordered (EYP-2BN110) from ebay. I am not sure why Simon chose 10A (probably, the only ones he could find at the time), but if there was a reason for 10A and not 1A or 2A and someone can fill me in, that would be appreciated.
?
The other question is more important. In Simon's post, he states: "An exact match for the thermal fuse could not be found, so just soldered in (very carefully, cooling the case and leads!) a 10 Amp 109 degC fuse." The key to this repair is "very carefully, cooling the case and leads!)" However, he does not give any detailed advice how to execute this instruction. I looked on the internet for guidance how to solder thermal fuses and found two Youtube videos. The first submerged the leads of the thermal fuse in water before soldering them to wire leads. The other used an infrared camera to monitor the temperature of the leads while soldering them. I don't have an infrared camera and submerging the thermal fuse leads in water isn't going to work with the confined space that exists on the 11811. So, can anyone give me some advice how to keep the temperature of the fuse leads below 115 degrees C while soldering? In other words, in detail how do you cool the case and leads while soldering in the fuse?
?
Dan Nessett
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