Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
I use "sticky label remover"
label remover
It has a distinctive citrus smell but the main thing is that it doesn't evaporate quickly like IPA or other solvents. I apply it liberally?to a paper towel (ie wet but not dripping) and then hold the towel over the crud for a couple of minutes then wipe with the towel. It shifts pretty much all the gunk left behind by stickers and by using the wet towel method you are only applying it to the outside of the attenuator and not inside the connectors - so reducing the chances of any damage to the attenuator itself.
It's safe to all the plastic connector covers I have so you can use them to further limit any accidental?ingress.
The only downside is that it does leave behind a slight citrus fragrance but provided you don't have a citrus allergy this isn't a problem
73 Dave
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Re: 85460A RF Preselector for HP 8542A EMI rcvr
Looks like an interesting piece of gear, also the EMI receiver.?
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On Oct 6, 2018, at 9:34 PM, Jeff Kruth via Groups.Io < kmec@...> wrote:
Hello All!
Does anyone have experience in using the HP85460A RF preselector box independent of the EMI receiver?? Very nice bit of hardware, looks like HPIB selectable filters/RF paths/preamps from 9 kHz to 6.5 GHz.
Interesting info in service guide that says you can hook it up directly via HPIB to 8753B and use the network analyzer to setup the filters for test &tuning.? If I was hot stuff with HPIB, I guess I could do this with a Bus Analyzer attached and trap the command strings out that select the various filter ranges. Was hoping maybe someone knew more...
TIA!
Regards,
Jeff Kruth
WA3ZKR
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Re: OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
Greetings, Awile ago I did a search for the MaterialSafety Data Sheet MSDS for the plastic activator and naptha was listed. Elsware I heard alcohol can be used.
In the case of the handle, I would probably drill or slot with a dremal on both sides of the break and epoxy a piece of steel or a couple nails into one side and let it dry. Then epoxy in the other side, keeping excess glue away from the seam edge, and putting a dab of crazy glue on the seam and stick it all back together. Excess crazy glue can be sanded or scraped of later and buffed up like new. If the handle is black, a wipe with a sharpie on the part (or sharpie the end of an exacto blade with ink and put crazy glue on the knife to apply to part). When crazy glue touches the ink it will dissolve it and black glue results. At 09:28 PM 10/06/2018, you wrote:
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Something like this?
Loctite-Super-Glue-Plastics-Bonding-System-with-Activator-2-Gram
Michael A. Terrell
--
-----Original Message-----
From: Kuba Ober
Try a ?€?high surface energy?€� activator for cyanoacrylate glue. I glued some vacuum cleaner parts that way: nothing would touch them, but after some sanding with 400
grit sandpaper and application of the activator, the superglue got the parts glued within seconds ? they won?€?t break again in the samme place.
Cheers, Kuba
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Re: OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
On 10/6/2018 8:10 PM, Sam Reaves wrote: Just received a Fluke 8810A (newer model of 8800A) Bench DMM where the handle was broken (in shipment) and nothing seems to glue it. Does anyone have a handle or a case with handle from a scrap unit they would be willing to part with? The 8800A/8810A use the same handle but it is different than the one from the more common 8000A and 8010A/12A/50A etc.
Thanks,
Sam
W3OHM
_._,_._,_
Hello, Sam-- There's a blog posting here... ....And from another posting , a discussion of flame conditioning recalcitrant plastics... "... Plastics: Clean plastics, except for polycarbonate, with isopropyl alcohol to remove contamination. Sand all plastics including polycarbonate with 80-grits and paper to provide texture for good adhesion. Flame treat ABS and PVC for additional benefit. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) and LDPE (low-density polyethylene) must be flame treated for good adhesion. FLAME TREATING is a method for improving adhesion to plastics by quickly passing the flame of a propane torch across the surface after it is cleaned and sanded. Allow the blue part of the flame to touch the surface. Keep it moving at the rate of 12 inches per second. No obvious change takes place, but the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically improves adhesion. Make multiple passes of the torch ?" apart to treat wide areas. Be careful not to melt or burn the surface. While flame treating will improve adhesion to most plastics, it appears to provide the greatest benefit to polyethylene (HDPE and LDPE). If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it doesn¡¯t hurt to flame treat. " HTH, and 73-- Brad AA1IP
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Re: OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
Precisely! The activator works with other glues too ¡ª try first, but I use it on tough epoxy joints as well ¨C where I need some bulk and not just contact action.?
Cheers, Kuba
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Show quoted text
Something like this?
Loctite-Super-Glue-Plastics-Bonding-System-with-Activator-2-Gram
Michael A. Terrell
Just received a Fluke 8810A (newer model of 8800A) Bench DMM where the handle was broken (in shipment) and nothing seems to glue it. Does anyone have a handle or a case with handle from a scrap unit they would be willing to part with? The 8800A/8810A
use the same handle but it is different than the one from the more common 8000A and 8010A/12A/50A etc.
Thanks,
Sam
_._,_._,_
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Re: OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
Something like this?
Loctite-Super-Glue-Plastics-Bonding-System-with-Activator-2-Gram
Michael A. Terrell
--
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Kuba Ober
Try a ¡°high surface energy¡± activator for cyanoacrylate glue. I glued some vacuum cleaner parts that way: nothing would touch them, but after some sanding with 400
grit sandpaper and application of the activator, the superglue got the parts glued within seconds ¨C they won¡¯t break again in the same place.
Cheers, Kuba
|
Re: 85460A RF Preselector for HP 8542A EMI rcvr
Hello All!
Does anyone have experience in using the HP85460A RF preselector box independent of the EMI receiver?? Very nice bit of hardware, looks like HPIB selectable filters/RF paths/preamps from 9 kHz to 6.5 GHz.
Interesting info in service guide that says you can hook it up directly via HPIB to 8753B and use the network analyzer to setup the filters for test &tuning.? If I was hot stuff with HPIB, I guess I could do this with a Bus Analyzer attached and trap the command strings out that select the various filter ranges. Was hoping maybe someone knew more...
TIA!
Regards,
Jeff Kruth
WA3ZKR
|
Re: OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
Try a ¡°high surface energy¡± activator for cyanoacrylate glue. I glued some vacuum cleaner parts that way: nothing would touch them, but after some sanding with 400
grit sandpaper and application of the activator, the superglue got the parts glued within seconds ¨C they won¡¯t break again in the same place.?
Cheers, Kuba
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Just received a Fluke 8810A (newer model of 8800A) Bench DMM where the handle was broken (in shipment) and nothing seems to glue it. Does anyone have a handle or a case with handle from a scrap unit they would be willing to part with? The 8800A/8810A
use the same handle but it is different than the one from the more common 8000A and 8010A/12A/50A etc.
Thanks,
Sam
W3OHM
|
OT - Fluke 8800A/8810A Handle needed
Just received a Fluke 8810A (newer model of 8800A) Bench DMM where the handle was broken (in shipment) and nothing seems to glue it. Does anyone have a handle or a case with handle from a scrap unit they would be willing to part with? The 8800A/8810A use the same handle but it is different than the one from the more common 8000A and 8010A/12A/50A etc.
Thanks,
Sam
W3OHM
|
Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
I have had some moderate success cleaning the foam rot by? using
"Tarn-X", which is a jewelry cleaner.? Not perfect by any means, but
certainly an improvement.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley II, N8ASB
On 10/6/2018 6:03 PM, Dr. David Kirkby
from Kirkby Microwave Ltd wrote:
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On Sat, 6 Oct 2018 at 19:44, John Ackermann
N8UR < jra@...> wrote:
I have a
bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the
electrical
surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy
with sticker
goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing
damage?? I'm
guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would
do the trick,
but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
IPA is reccommended by Keysight. I buy "eBay graded" IPA.
Supposed to be 99.9%, but any more than 80% would be a
bonus!
I would not immerse anything, even in IPA.
I had some 3.5 mm connectors with foam on them from an HP
cal kit. I could not clean it off. I tried IPA in an
ultrasonic cleaner, but that would not touch it either. Then
I tried acetone. That melted bits of the connectors. I
everntually stuck on eBay as for spares or repair, and they
were bought by yikunhk - the HP rebirthing centre.
Dave
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Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
Isopropyl alcohol is quite hygroscopic. If exposed to air for a time pure ispropyl will become 91%. That is usually the dryest one can buy in general trade. 99+% is available from stores who sell computer supplies and some other places. I don't think it is ever completely free of water. 99+ requires care in handling to prevent absorption of more water.
The problem is that when the alcohol evaporates the water is left behind. For many purposes it makes no difference but there are some applications where the driest alcohol possible is necessary. One is cleaning the emulsion side of photographic film. Currently, 99+% IPA is Kodak's recommended film cleaner for the emulsion side only because it can attack some types of supports. There were better materials such as 1,1,1,trichlorethane, but they are now considered hazardous.
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On 10/6/2018 3:03 PM, Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd wrote: On Sat, 6 Oct 2018 at 19:44, John Ackermann N8UR <jra@... <mailto:jra@...>> wrote:
I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the
electrical
surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with
sticker
goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing
damage?? I'm
guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do
the trick,
but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
IPA is reccommended by Keysight. I buy "eBay graded" IPA. Supposed to be 99.9%, but any more than 80% would be a bonus!
I would not immerse anything, even in IPA.
I had some 3.5 mm connectors with foam on them from an HP cal kit. I could not clean it off. I tried IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner, but that would not touch it either. Then I tried acetone. That melted bits of the connectors. I everntually stuck on eBay as for spares or repair, and they were bought by yikunhk - the HP rebirthing centre.
Dave
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
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Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd
On Sat, 6 Oct 2018 at 19:44, John Ackermann N8UR < jra@...> wrote: I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical
surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker
goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage?? I'm
guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick,
but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
IPA is reccommended by Keysight. I buy "eBay graded" IPA. Supposed to be 99.9%, but any more than 80% would be a bonus!
I would not immerse anything, even in IPA.
I had some 3.5 mm connectors with foam on them from an HP cal kit. I could not clean it off. I tried IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner, but that would not touch it either. Then I tried acetone. That melted bits of the connectors. I everntually stuck on eBay as for spares or repair, and they were bought by yikunhk - the HP rebirthing centre.
Dave
|
Re: Hp 8648C with output level problems
Hi Peter
First is the PSU OK for voltage and noise, well known problem with 8648X signal generators
73 George G6HIG
On Saturday, October 6, 2018 8:48 PM, Peter Hansen <oz1lpr@...> wrote:
Hello All I have a Well trusted HP 8648C signal generator I used for many years. It has the high output option (20dBm output). It has now low output around 2-3dBm output maximum and it is not stable in amplitude.
I have ruled out the Attenuator and Reverse power protection. I measure the power direct on the output module.
I heard about Failure of the output MMIC. Can anyone comment on that.
I have seen that MMIC type for sale on Alibaba page. Has anyone ever tried buying that component from them. Is it safe to assume the part is genuine ?
73 Peter OZ1LPR
|
Hp 8648C with output level problems
Hello All I have a Well trusted HP 8648C signal generator I used for many years. It has the high output option (20dBm output). It has now low output around 2-3dBm output maximum and it is not stable in amplitude.
I have ruled out the Attenuator and Reverse power protection. I measure the power direct on the output module.
I heard about Failure of the output MMIC. Can anyone comment on that.
I have seen that MMIC type for sale on Alibaba page. Has anyone ever tried buying that component from them. Is it safe to assume the part is genuine ?
73 Peter OZ1LPR
|
Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
Back in the day I must have cleaned many hundreds of N Type connectors, the biggest issue at the observatory was actually PP (Pigeon Poop - 60' dishes were ideal nesting sites!) However soap/water/brush worked fine for that!
The connectors that were more exposed to the elements were sealed with tape and we used a solvent to get that goop off (Trich in those days but IPA would probably be a safer alternative today!) and no harm was caused.
Whatever solvent you use the merest hint of WD40 sparingly applied to the top of the locking ring afterwards makes a huge difference to the ease of subsequent fastening/unfastening. Left dry there seems to be a lot of friction at that point, especially, I have noticed, on stainless steel bodied connectors - I find a drop applied from the end of a cocktail stick is ample.
Adrian
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On 10/6/2018 7:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote: I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage?? I'm guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick, but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
|
Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
On 10/06/2018 02:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote: I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage? I'm guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick, but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
I definitely would not immerse the attenuators in any kind of solvent, not even water. However, for a solvent, I would first try naphtha, and if that didn't seem to work, then try denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, which you may have in your medicine chest already. It may not require a toothbrush, possibly some old rags or even paper towels might work, to soak the outside of the attenuator and then rub off the crud. I guess you could immerse connectors in the solvent, but you'll still have to scrub them with a rag or that toothbrush. (I had an experience recently with a spill of one half of a two-part epoxy. Naphtha didn't work, but alcohol did.) Good luck. Let us know what happens. --doug
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Re: Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
I find that napthat (i.e. Ronson lighter fluid) does a good job. It is mild enough to not attack things, but aggressive enough to clean dirt and contaminates like adhesives.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley II, N8ASB
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On 10/6/2018 2:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote: I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage?? I'm guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick, but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
|
Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage? I'm guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick, but I don't want to dissolve anything important.
Thanks,
John
|
I purchased a hp83236-66501 board from ebay some time ago, and was wondering if anyone has a schematic for the board? Would like to identify the components on it for possible use in future designs. Any help would be appreciated.
John kd8paf
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[OT] - Bird 4391M Data connector information
Hello,
sorry for the OT. I have purchased a old rf watt meter (still sold by
Bird AFAIK) but any pointer leads me to 4391A models, M is simply
unknown. The M version has a connector on its back panel, it should be
a serial connection (somewhat DA-15 ITT Cannon, the item is not in my
hands yet) but really I am at loss to find anything about it.
I asked Bird directly but there is nothing on their site about this
version/option.
Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
Giuseppe Marullo
IW2JWW - JN45RQ
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Michael A. Terrell
Sam Reaves
john rader