Re: 8594e front panel buttons not responding
From memory, doesn't this thing have a 'Hold' function key that locks out the keys, keypad and encoder knob? It hasn't got stuck in that mode somehow has it?
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Re: 8594e front panel buttons not responding
It should power up in local if the board is OK.? You might also try just removing the GPIB card for a test.? It senses what if any interface card is present on power up.? I think it is most likely that the keyboard is disconnected (or defective). ? Daun ? Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB ?
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From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 10:09 AM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 8594e front panel buttons not responding? ? It does have GPIB.? Could that happen spontaneously?? Would that persist through a power cycle?
I haven't been controlling this with GPIB.? I have a GPIB interface, so I suppose I could try to query it remotely and put it back to local control if that's the case.
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Re: 8594e front panel buttons not responding
It does have GPIB.? Could that happen spontaneously?? Would that persist through a power cycle?
I haven't been controlling this with GPIB.? I have a GPIB interface, so I suppose I could try to query it remotely and put it back to local control if that's the case.
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Re: 8594e front panel buttons not responding
Does the instrument have GPIB option?? Front panel could be locked out by remote... -rastro
On Monday, February 22, 2016 11:17 PM, "dfnr2@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" wrote:
?
I just powered up my 8594e to find that it's not responding to any front panel buttons, soft buttons, or the jog dial.? The intensity knob works.? The unit passes the self tests and starts sweeping just fine.
The last time I powered it up, about a year ago, I had just replaced the battery and checked to make sure the calibration constants and DLPs were all still there.? The buttons worked fine then.
I thought perhaps I didn't replace all the cables as securely as possible, so I pulled off the cover and checked the cabling to make sure nothing obvious is loose.? No luck.?? I guess the next thing is to pull off the front panel assembly and work my way backward to the CPU board.? Has anyone here seen this happen before??? Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
See my earlier post on this thread, but on all the instruments I listed, it was trivial - basically drop the front panel out (see your manual - but generally a few screws through the top and bottom of the front frame), remove the PCB from it and away you go.
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
The recent thread about switch cleaning morphed into a learned in-depth discussion of Isoprop alcohol (IPA) and its kin. If you search for the thread back in December entitled 'HP 8568B - Very Sick help please' you'll find it
As a first-time HP Switch cleaning operative on an 8566A my input was:-
**
Having removed the PCB I flood sprayed the switches with IPA and
operated each a few times, within just three or four operations they
freed up like magic going from clunky
'feels-like-something-is-about-to-bust' to almost silky smooth! Then
blew it off with an air-gun and gave it another dose for luck.
Turned
my attention to the weak and feeble key, it was the 'MHz' one so dead
easy to get to (not the way Mr Murphy's law usually works?) and found
the problem was the steel spring was not missing but busted, about 3mm
shorter than one pulled from the spare pcb.
Fitting
was simple and as people here have said, no need to pull the key-cap.
Just slide the spring back in through the key body with one hand and use
a very fine point - I used SMT fine tweezers - to guide the end 'up'
the key stem as it reaches it. It is important to ensure the spring is
central and both ends sit correctly in the tiny recesses made for them,
one in the stem the other is a lip in the body molding - a glance at
good key makes it clear.
****
I would add that it was so effective and transformed the switch action to as-new I have now worked my way through all switches on, HP3455, 3456, 8112 and 438 and the clunky old action has gone and they are a joy to use! (I know - I should get out more...)
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8594e front panel buttons not responding
I just powered up my 8594e to find that it's not responding to any front panel buttons, soft buttons, or the jog dial.? The intensity knob works.? The unit passes the self tests and starts sweeping just fine. The last time I powered it up, about a year ago, I had just replaced the battery and checked to make sure the calibration constants and DLPs were all still there.? The buttons worked fine then. I thought perhaps I didn't replace all the cables as securely as possible, so I pulled off the cover and checked the cabling to make sure nothing obvious is loose.? No luck.?? I guess the next thing is to pull off the front panel assembly and work my way backward to the CPU board.? Has anyone here seen this happen before??? Any suggestions? Thanks, Dave
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Re: Neon pilot lights 1450-0566
Thanks Greg,? The Lumex one almost
certainly could be made to fit in the 141T.? I've managed to get
the back off mine and fitted an NE-2, but if I ever need it I'll
bear that one in mind.
Dan
On 2/22/2016 7:50 PM, big_sky_explorer@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
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?
t there are LED
indicator assemblies starting to appear out there that also are
for 115 VAC and
are in similar size enclosures.? Lumex is
one manufacturer that makes a very small housing LED indicator
in various
output colors.? A few of them can be
found at Mouser Electronics ()
or other distributors.? At Mouser, try
their web catalog page 179
and look near the bottom of the page.?
The data sheet for the yellow indicator can
be found at
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
I have had the same problem with accessing archives for this group.
From my Android phone on T-Mobile. The first nationwide 4G network.
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-------- Original message -------- From: "srdaven@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> Date: 02/22/2016 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Subject: RE: [hp_agilent_equipment] How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
?
Regrettably, I have never been able to successfully search the archives on the 'new' yahoogroups, tried it and found nothing.
How hard is it to get into these switches, or does it depend completely on which box you're working on?
D
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Shim stock in any size can be had from various industrial supply companies. ?Search MSC or Mcmaster-Carr for virtually any mechanical needs.
From my Android phone on T-Mobile. The first nationwide 4G network.
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-------- Original message -------- From: "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> Date: 02/22/2016 9:53 PM (GMT-05:00) To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
?
Thanks, great to have a link. A feeler gauge will get you a few pieces though,
so in the scheme of things it's still a cheap repair. If you know a machinist
he will usually have some shim stock also.
Peter
On 2/22/2016 9:39 PM, Brad Thompson brad.thompson@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
>
>
> On 2/22/2016 9:31 PM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
> >
> > Generally you remove the front panel circuit board and front panel, then
> > separate the PCB and that will get you enough access to work on the
> > buttons. Do
> > this over a benchtop as some of the little springs may have popped out
> > and it's
> > best to not lose them. Straighten them gently and carefully use
> > tweezers to get
> > then in and under a little feature on the button shaft. You'll see
> > what I mean
> > when you're in there. If you are missing any look in the archives, spring
> > stainless shim stock of a certain thickness works and can be cut with a
> > scissors. If ANY buttons are stuck in things will not work right. If the
> > encoder is dead it's likely the internal light bulb burned out. Look
> > in the
> > archives for the number, it's not too hard to replace.
> >
> Hello--
>
> Here's a column which I wrote a few years ago that describes the
> switches and replacement
> shim stock-- it's 0.002 inches thick. Depending on what
> automobile-repair resources are available
> to you, the only source of shim stock may be a feeler gauge:
>
> http://www.edn.com/electronics-blogs/test-voices/4378128/5060-9436
>
> 73--
>
> Brad AA1IP
>
>
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Re: Neon pilot lights 1450-0566
I actually had the spring clip slice through the plastic
housing and snip the lens off of the indicator on my 141T.?
I came in the lab one day and there was the front lens assembly of the
indicator lying on the bench with the neon bulb sticking out of the hole in the front panel. But about that time I was in the process of
moving to another state and packet up the 141T which still has not been
unpacked.
?
If I can remember, this indicator has a housing that is
considerably shorter than the similar neon ones available these days and that
there is limited clearance behind the panel in that instrument.? In addition, it has become hard to find a
replacement indicator that fits in the smaller hole that HP has for their
item.? Most neon indicators available nowadays
are considerably larger in diameter.
?
But the idea of putting in another neon lamp started me
thinking towards an LED replacement.? I
do realize that the present 141T indicator runs on 115V but there are LED
indicator assemblies starting to appear out there that also are for 115 VAC and
are in similar size enclosures.? Lumex is
one manufacturer that makes a very small housing LED indicator in various
output colors.? A few of them can be
found at Mouser Electronics ()
or other distributors.? At Mouser, try
their web catalog page 179
and look near the bottom of the page.? The data sheet for the yellow indicator can
be found at
This particular one fits in a hole a little over one quarter
inch diameter.? They are a little pricey
but I feel that it worth it if you don¡¯t ever have to go hunting for another
replacement again for the life of the instrument or resort to complete
instrument disassembly to keep replacing it.? Besides, it makes decades old equipment look a little more up to date.
?
For those replacement applications where space is available,
I have been purchasing a little kit from Velleman that has a tiny printed
circuit board that contains all of the necessary parts to run the LED from AC
power.? Jameco Electronics () sells it under stock number
2196561.? If I don¡¯t have front panel
space available, I simply install it in a remote location on the equipment
chassis, remove the existing LED from the board and run wires up to the
location where I have installed a LED fixture that nears the original neon
indicator that is being replaced.
?
A recent Velleman board use was in a Bird 10 kW RF
termination that had a neon power on indicator that is manufactured in France
and uses a slide base neon lamp of extremely small dimension (and also very
expensive, wears out fast and is fairly unobtanium).? I snapped
in the Velleman board elsewhere on the chassis, ran the wires up to the original indicator housing, inserted a slide base LED and no longer have
to worry about the lamp wearing out again.
Greg
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An add-on board will not be needed.
For a Minicircuits MAR-3+ type of MMIC amplifier, remove R2, short C3,
move the old C3 to where R2 was, and install a 270 ohm resistor
between +15.7 volts where R2 was connected and the output of the
amplifier.
Someone else may have a better suggestion about which exact amplifier
to use.
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On 22 Feb 2016 18:02:52 -0800, you wrote: Thanks for the response. I'm a purist when it comes to using the original HP part, so I want to try find it if it still available. I was unable to cross-reference the 5088-7036 to any manufacturer/part number, so perhaps this is a custom part that HP had made. It was also used in the 5355A plug in for the 5345A counter.
I may have to go the Minicircuits route, so I'll take a look. It seems likely that there will need to be an add-on board to handle the new MMIC and biasing components.
Please let me know if you find something on the original part, or if you have any ideas on retrofitting the MMIC.
I really appreciate the responses!
Thanks,
Joe, KN5U
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Thanks, great to have a link. A feeler gauge will get you a few pieces though, so in the scheme of things it's still a cheap repair. If you know a machinist he will usually have some shim stock also.
Peter
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On 2/22/2016 9:39 PM, Brad Thompson brad.thompson@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
On 2/22/2016 9:31 PM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Generally you remove the front panel circuit board and front panel, then
separate the PCB and that will get you enough access to work on the
buttons. Do
this over a benchtop as some of the little springs may have popped out
and it's
best to not lose them. Straighten them gently and carefully use
tweezers to get
then in and under a little feature on the button shaft. You'll see
what I mean
when you're in there. If you are missing any look in the archives, spring
stainless shim stock of a certain thickness works and can be cut with a
scissors. If ANY buttons are stuck in things will not work right. If the
encoder is dead it's likely the internal light bulb burned out. Look
in the
archives for the number, it's not too hard to replace.
Hello--
Here's a column which I wrote a few years ago that describes the
switches and replacement
shim stock-- it's 0.002 inches thick. Depending on what
automobile-repair resources are available
to you, the only source of shim stock may be a feeler gauge:
73--
Brad AA1IP
|
Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
On 2/22/2016 9:31 PM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Generally you remove the front panel circuit board and front panel, then
separate the PCB and that will get you enough access to work on the buttons. Do
this over a benchtop as some of the little springs may have popped out and it's
best to not lose them. Straighten them gently and carefully use tweezers to get
then in and under a little feature on the button shaft. You'll see what I mean
when you're in there. If you are missing any look in the archives, spring
stainless shim stock of a certain thickness works and can be cut with a
scissors. If ANY buttons are stuck in things will not work right. If the
encoder is dead it's likely the internal light bulb burned out. Look in the
archives for the number, it's not too hard to replace.
Hello-- Here's a column which I wrote a few years ago that describes the switches and replacement shim stock-- it's 0.002 inches thick. Depending on what automobile-repair resources are available to you, the only source of shim stock may be a feeler gauge: 73-- Brad AA1IP
|
Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Generally you remove the front panel circuit board and front panel, then separate the PCB and that will get you enough access to work on the buttons. Do this over a benchtop as some of the little springs may have popped out and it's best to not lose them. Straighten them gently and carefully use tweezers to get then in and under a little feature on the button shaft. You'll see what I mean when you're in there. If you are missing any look in the archives, spring stainless shim stock of a certain thickness works and can be cut with a scissors. If ANY buttons are stuck in things will not work right. If the encoder is dead it's likely the internal light bulb burned out. Look in the archives for the number, it's not too hard to replace.
Peter
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On 2/22/2016 6:27 PM, srdaven@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
I'm FINALLY getting around to hauling the stuff out of boxes - 15 years of storage, ugh.
I have an 8350A sweeper mainframe with 83595A 26.5GHz plug-in.
When turned on, an error message E0004 briefly shows in the mainframe display, then I see the usual display...red LEDs. In theory, there's a left RPG and right RPG that are setup to establish low and high freq of the sweep. The left RPG does nothing. The right RPG seems to have the expected affect.
I'm not sure the RPG is what's wrong, though....
Under the left-most RPG, are buttons labeled START, CW and CF, with yellow LEDS indicating which function is selected. The START LED is illuminated and that's that..pressing the buttons does nothing.
In the data entry area with the keyboard, one finds the usual units buttons GHz, MHz, and dBm. When pressing any one of them, it stays pressed. Come back an hour later, and it has finally released.
When I worked in Santa Rosa at HP/Agilent in the early 2000s, the official service policy on any of these buttons was "limited lifetime, replace or dispose". But I have to believe there's a procedure to get them functioning again.
The RF plug-in's buttons are equally defective.
Thanks!
Dave W8NF
|
Thanks for the response. I'm a purist when it comes to using the original HP part, so I want to try find it if it still available. I was unable to cross-reference the 5088-7036 to any manufacturer/part number, so perhaps this is a custom part that HP had made. It was also used in the? 5355A plug in for the 5345A counter.
I may have to go the Minicircuits route, so?I'll take a look. It seems likely that there will need to be an add-on board to handle the new MMIC and biasing components.
Please let me know if?you find something on the original part, or if you have any ideas on retrofitting the MMIC.
I really appreciate the responses!
Thanks,
Joe, KN5U
|
Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Dave, ? The RPG may well have a ¡®dead bulb¡¯.? The bulb is a 683.? Easy to remove and test. ? Good luck. ? Joe ?
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From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 5:27 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?? ? I'm FINALLY getting around to hauling the stuff out of boxes - 15 years of storage, ugh.
I have an 8350A sweeper mainframe with 83595A 26.5GHz plug-in.
When turned on, an error message E0004 briefly shows in the mainframe display, then I see the usual display...red LEDs.? In theory, there's a left RPG and right RPG that are setup to establish low and high freq of the sweep.? The left RPG does nothing.? The right RPG seems to have the expected affect.
I'm not sure the RPG is what's wrong, though....
Under the left-most RPG, are buttons labeled START, CW and CF, with yellow LEDS indicating which function is selected.? The START LED is illuminated and that's that..pressing the buttons does nothing.?
In the data entry area with the keyboard, one finds the usual units buttons GHz, MHz, and dBm.? When pressing any one of them, it stays pressed.? Come back an hour later, and it has finally released.
When I worked in Santa Rosa at HP/Agilent in the early 2000s, the official service policy on any of these buttons was "limited lifetime, replace or dispose".? But I have to believe there's a procedure to get them functioning again.
The RF plug-in's buttons are equally defective.
Thanks!
Dave W8NF ?
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Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
?
Well I typed "buttons clean" followed by a "enter"
into the search box and got 156 hits. I dont think its in any help-file but it
works for me. I didnt read 'em all?to see if they were usefull though
:-))
?
Alan
G3NYK?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 11:55
PM
Subject: RE: [hp_agilent_equipment] How
do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Regrettably,
I have never been able to successfully search the archives on the 'new'
yahoogroups, tried it and found nothing.
How hard is it to get into
these switches, or does it depend completely on which box you're working
on?
D
|
Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Regrettably, I have never been able to successfully search the archives on the 'new' yahoogroups, tried it and found nothing.
How hard is it to get into these switches, or does it depend completely on which box you're working on?
D
|
Re: How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?
Hi Dave! ? This has been discussed here in the past, so you might want to look in the archives.? The simple answer is that they need cleaning.? There¡¯s a thin metal strip in them that gets deflected when the switch is pressed, and it isn¡¯t moving properly.? In bad cases, the strip gets trashed and you have to make a new one, usually out of shim stock. I guess this gives me an excuse to call you! ? Daun ? Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB ?
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From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 6:27 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] How do you clean buttons on HP uWave gear?? ? I'm FINALLY getting around to hauling the stuff out of boxes - 15 years of storage, ugh.
I have an 8350A sweeper mainframe with 83595A 26.5GHz plug-in.
When turned on, an error message E0004 briefly shows in the mainframe display, then I see the usual display...red LEDs.? In theory, there's a left RPG and right RPG that are setup to establish low and high freq of the sweep.? The left RPG does nothing.? The right RPG seems to have the expected affect.
I'm not sure the RPG is what's wrong, though....
Under the left-most RPG, are buttons labeled START, CW and CF, with yellow LEDS indicating which function is selected.? The START LED is illuminated and that's that..pressing the buttons does nothing.?
In the data entry area with the keyboard, one finds the usual units buttons GHz, MHz, and dBm.? When pressing any one of them, it stays pressed.? Come back an hour later, and it has finally re leased.
When I worked in Santa Rosa at HP/Agilent in the early 2000s, the official service policy on any of these buttons was "limited lifetime, replace or dispose".? But I have to believe there's a procedure to get them functioning again.
The RF plug-in's buttons are equally defective.
Thanks!
Dave W8NF ?
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David Hess