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Add 3476A, 4-digit, auto-ranging, Vdc, Vac, Idc, Iac, R and Range hold

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On 19 Feb 2016 01:19, "daniel@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
>
> I've been using Ebay since 1996 (when it was called "AuctionWeb") and have a 100% rating.?

> Here's a few pieces of advice:

> -? Look at the seller's feedback rating.? Look more carefully if you're buying something valuable, look at the negatives and see what they say.?

As I wrote above, that has its uses but it has its problems for the reasons I stated.

Another trick I forgot to mention is one that express-test (Alltest, in the USA) do. If you look they sell small quantities of HP feet. You buy 1 on one auction,? 2 on another auction.? There is no auction where you can select the number you want.?

When I was buying an item from them,? and wanted 30 feet, they insisted that they were purchased on eBay.? They told me that they get them made, sell them at cost, with the purpose of boosting feedback.? So I had to purchase about half a dozen auctions to get the feet. So they got 7 positive feedbacks from me.

> If someone's been on there for years and has a 100% feedback rating, they're probably very safe to buy from.?

As I note, yixunhk, from China,? is one dodgy seller who keeps their 100% rating by some dodgy means.

Another thing,? if a buyer leaves no feedback,? I am pretty sure I read it counts as positive at some point.

> Another thing I've found that's great to buy on Ebay: batteries.? I needed some CR2012 batteries, which you can easily pay $3 each for in a retail store.? There's sellers selling these things for 10/$5 or something like that; they ship them to you in a letter-size envelope, taped to a piece of paper! Obviously they buy them in huge quantities and sell them sans packaging at a profit; at Walmart you're paying for fancy packaging and retail overhead.

Now batteries is one item I will *not* buy from eBay. The probability of your $0.50 battery being a poor counterfeit part, with the risk of leakage is very high.

Dr David Kirkby
Managing Director
Kirkby Microwave Ltd
Registered office: Stokes Hall Lodge, Burnham Rd, Chelmsford, Essex, CM3 6DT, United Kingdom
Registered in England and Wales as company number 08914892

Tel 07910 441670 / +44 7910 441670 (0900-2100 GMT)

On Thu, 2016-02-18 at 12:30 -0800, sreeb sreeb@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:

I just tried to update from an ancient logitech ps/2 mouse with ball to
a new ps/2 laser mouse. My 16700B didn't recognize it.

Same result with a new compact keyboard. My old one, that dates from
around 1990, works fine.

Both are native ps/2 devices and work on windows machines with ps/2
interfaces.

Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Ed


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This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.

I use ancient media-tech mt111 mouse with ps/2 connector. I turned out
that hp16702 will complain (and stop) during boot if the mouse is not
connected even that its window manager is configured for remote session
(vnc) so i keep the mouse in the pouch bag all the time however mouse
must be connected.
I know nothing about keyboard. Didn't have any need/interest in using
aux keyboards.

the mt111 is ball, 3-buttons + wheel mouse and seems it is not available
anymore.

--
Krzysztof Blaszkowski

is a very long list of test equipment model numbers with brief description. The person who created the list also has links to photos of a lot of the equipment. I stumbled across it, while searching for a manual for an obscure piece of test equipment.

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 22:12:17 -0500, you wrote:

I was referring to the question regarding latest Java browser update

ok, thanks.

Harvey

-----Original Message-----

From: Harvey White madyn@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

To: hp_agilent_equipment <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

Sent: Thu, Feb 18, 2016 6:42 pm

Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 16700B mouse and keyboard compatibility



??? On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 21:01:14 -0500, you wrote:

Time for a dedicated laptop/desktop without the java period

I'm puzzled, how does this allow the 1670x to work with an existing

keyboard or mouse?



Do you propose, instead, bypassing the local connections and using a

separate computer?



Harvey

-----Original Message-----

From: dburton97128@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

To: hp_agilent_equipment <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

Sent: Thu, Feb 18, 2016 4:22 pm

Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 16700B mouse and keyboard compatibility

??? ---------------------

It appears that all that is wrong with these units is that they are

missing pull-up resistors on the PS/2 ports. There are even unpopulated

pads for them directly behind the connectors. (see image) All that I had

to do was add 1k resistors in the four locations and the unit recognized

an old el-cheapo PS/2 mouse and keyboard. (As expected, a USB mouse or

KB thru a PS/2 adapter did not work.)

---------------------

Good to know.??? I hunted through my box of old keyboards until I found on that worked, but someday I might still need this.

Now id someone could just solve the recent JAVA security update incompatibility that would be great (recent JAVA does not work with the remote browser interface, refuses to connect to the analyzer).

Bob Dildine is correct and if you feel the same way, then the 8341 may be your best choice. (It's almost the same as the 8340.) It has two downsides. It's extremely heavy - probably the heaviest piece of test equipment from that era. And it is really loud.

But, it goes from 10 MHz to 20GHz and it doesn't require software for adjustments. BTW, the 8341 can be made to go to 26.5 GHz, you will have to align it in that last band and push some keys on the front panel to enable that feature.

BTW, I think I once aligned the 8566 front end using a 321.4 MHz source, the first LO and a mixer. Obviously, it wasn't a great job, but if you have no other equipment, you can get things going that way.

Vladan

Perhaps this?
Ebay #
201522528149

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 21:01:14 -0500, you wrote:

Time for a dedicated laptop/desktop without the java period

I'm puzzled, how does this allow the 1670x to work with an existing
keyboard or mouse?

Do you propose, instead, bypassing the local connections and using a
separate computer?

Harvey

-----Original Message-----

From: dburton97128@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

To: hp_agilent_equipment <hp_agilent_equipment@...>

Sent: Thu, Feb 18, 2016 4:22 pm

Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 16700B mouse and keyboard compatibility



??? ---------------------

It appears that all that is wrong with these units is that they are

missing pull-up resistors on the PS/2 ports. There are even unpopulated

pads for them directly behind the connectors. (see image) All that I had

to do was add 1k resistors in the four locations and the unit recognized

an old el-cheapo PS/2 mouse and keyboard. (As expected, a USB mouse or

KB thru a PS/2 adapter did not work.)

---------------------



Good to know.??? I hunted through my box of old keyboards until I found on that worked, but someday I might still need this.



Now id someone could just solve the recent JAVA security update incompatibility that would be great (recent JAVA does not work with the remote browser interface, refuses to connect to the analyzer).

Siggi,

I have both an HP 8672A (2-18 GHz) and an HP 83732A (10 MHz - 20 GHz). I'm partial to the HP 8672A because that was my first project of my 30 year career at HP but I really like the HP 83732A. However, the 83732 requires specialized service software that runs on the HP series 200 or 300 computers to make any adjustments. This software writes calibration constants into ROM. I'm stuck with uncalibrated power output (it's off by 4-6 dB and not monotonic) and no way to correct it. The 8672 was done before the era of computers and all of its adjustments are done manually as outlined in the manual.

So whatever you choose, be aware that a fixer upper might require service software that is now unobtainable and runs on computers that are old and obsolete.

Regards,

Bob Dildine
w6sfh at sonic dot net

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On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 16:54:26 -0500, you wrote:

On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 12:36:54PM -0500, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:

Hamfests and these groups are looking better all the time.

But the chance that one might find something relatively rarely
sold that one really wants or needs at the hamfests one can find a way
to actually get oneself to is close to zero, while if it is on Ebay you
do have a chance of spotting and landing it even if the prices are much
higher and sometimes there are problems with the transaction.

You do have to have good hamfests. It also depends on what you want
to buy and whether or not the market it there for such things. For a
"relatively zero" probability event, I've managed to do fairly well,
although one could always do worse, or better.

And at its best, ebay is reasonably fair... hamfests and private
sales favor those who are good at playing the required games... the
"insiders" who know in advance who is selling what and where and how to
get them to give you first dibs ... and who to trust and who is trying
to cheat you in an anonymous cash only transaction where recourse may be
difficult..

And required games and who to trust and who is trying to cheat you
also applies on ebay. The feedback rating has become, apparently
lately, less than reliable. You can at least examine the purchase
carefully, may be able to plug it in, and can decide to buy or not. If
it looks like junk or is in need of repair, you offer accordingly. You
can always walk away.

I have many many many items bought from Ebay I have NEVER seen
at any hamfest I attended, and they were bought from the comfort of my
living room with a laptop and not after a 10 hour drive in frightening
traffic and a morning of wandering around in scorching heat and hot sun
or cold wet rain or other adverse conditions.

You're going to hamfests that are too far away, for one. There are
always things on ebay that you will not see at hamfests, and you will
also find things at hamfests that are wildly over-priced on ebay.

Ideally, you'd make use of both.

Remember a fundamental principle of economics... that absolutely
pertains to Ebay...

Risk and uncertainly reduces market price... more perfect the
information, the higher the selling price.

Same at a hamfest.

The way I see Ebay is much greater risk of problems results
(sometimes) in much lower prices - if one wants, needs or expects hard
guarantees and perfect luck with each and every transaction than buy
from traditional sales channels and expect to pay 10 times as much or
more.

But for a lot of us we simply cannot justify spending that kind
of MSRP full price bux for hobby or small business related items...
and it is nice to have an alternative.

As I said, use both.

Harvey

I've been using Ebay since 1996 (when it was called "AuctionWeb") and have a 100% rating.? I don't use it that much any more, but it's invaluable for some small and/or hard-to-find things, especially on the used market.? You can get much better deals there than on Amazon, depending on what it is (esp. if it's used or closeout).

Here's a few pieces of advice:
- look at where your seller is located.? If they're in China, only buy from them if you're willing to eat the cost if it either never shows up or is a piece of junk.? I wouldn't buy anything shipped from China unless it's under $10.? Buyer protection may save you, but is it really worth the bother?? Just buy from a US seller and avoid all the hassle.
-? Look at the seller's feedback rating.? Look more carefully if you're buying something valuable, look at the negatives and see what they say.? If someone's been on there for years and has a 100% feedback rating, they're probably very safe to buy from.? Otherwise, take into account how much volume they do (I have a perfect feedback rating as I said, but my volume is very low because I've never sold that much stuff on there, just some secondhand things mainly).? It's probably impossible to sell 10,000 items without getting a few disgruntled customers here and there.? Some people are just weird.
- Comparison shop on Amazon and other places.? Ebay has high fees (esp. for low-volume sellers), so you might get a better deal elsewhere.? Try Craigslist if it's something that makes more sense to sell locally.? Personally if I'm buying something new, I go to Amazon first, as they usually have the best prices, free shipping, and an easy return policy and system.? If it's expensive, I'll check around, but if it's something Amazon is selling directly, the price is usually very good, but if it's an affiliate, not necessarily.? Ebay is my go-to place for weird small stuff.? So when I wanted to buy some 6x6" aluminum plates, for instance, instead of getting reamed at McMaster-Carr, I went to Ebay and got them dirt cheap from some small (US) seller.? When I wanted a used cellphone, and an Otterbox for it, I went to Ebay (the Otterbox was new, but since it was for a 2-year-old model, it was $12).? If I want to buy a used off-lease office laser printer, Ebay is where I go for that.? Ebay is simply the best place for secondhand and closed stuff like that; there's tons of high-volume liquidation sellers who use it for that.? Another thing I've found that's great to buy on Ebay: batteries.? I needed some CR2012 batteries, which you can easily pay $3 each for in a retail store.? There's sellers selling these things for 10/$5 or something like that; they ship them to you in a letter-size envelope, taped to a piece of paper! Obviously they buy them in huge quantities and sell them sans packaging at a profit; at Walmart you're paying for fancy packaging and retail overhead.
- Research your product and know what you're buying.? Sellers don't always know exactly what they're selling.? It's better to ask a question, or skip the sale, than get into an argument over the specs of an item.
- Don't get emotional about Ebay's customer service.? Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.? It's a big corporation, and they're not going to do everything right.? Refusing to use them out of spite will cut you off from a lot of good deals. Remember, caveat emptor.? If you want a no-questions-asked return policy, go to Walmart.? Ebay is not a replacement for Walmart, nor vice versa.? My phone's Otterbox is on sale at Walmart for $45, full price, and not discounted, but Ebay had it for $12.? From a high-volume seller with a good record, that's worth the risk to me.

I've had several ebay transactions that didn't turn out well (bootleg SW, counterfeit SW, previously used serial numbers, etc.)? In all cases the claims with ebay went smoothly and easily and I was protected.

This may not be the best place to mention this but I have an Advantest R3131 spectrum analyzer that had its battery fail and as a result "forgot" that it has a tracking generator installed.?