Re: Soldering recommendation
I read somewhere that heat is used to soften Cyanoacrylate and alcohol is used to dissolve it so that you can separate the two pieces.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2016-Feb-16 10:11 PM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
|
Re: HP8593A Power Supply repair
Hi Ted,
Hand made diagrams sent to your personal Email.
Wish you success.
Regards/Roumen
LZ3RV
Sofia, Bulgaria
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
It melts around 275 deg +/-
Pete wa2odo
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
?
Indium solder, haven't heard of that in a while!? I shall try and find some.?
Peter
?
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
On Feb 16, 2016 10:12 PM, "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Indium solder, haven't heard of that in a while! ?I shall try and find some.?
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2016, at 10:37 PM, PeteM pmanfre@... [hp_agilent_equipment] < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
On Feb 16, 2016 10:12 PM, "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back before repairing.
Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with a hot air station.
Just an idea,
Ignacio
El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y protegido por Avast.
www.avast.com <>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Hi Peter
Boy, I¡¯d like to know the same thing! One of the things I tried (unsuccessfully) not too long ago was to solder a broken wire on a coil of an Accutron (tuning fork) watch. I wasn¡¯t successful, and I know firsthand how that solder past looks under the microscope!
It¡¯s definitely NOT EASY!
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:09 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Soldering recommendation
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it
for repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for
repairing printed circuit boards. probably you need to glue the
problem area to a stiff back before repairing.
Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder
paste with a hot air station.
Just an idea,
Ignacio
El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter
Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
?
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for
advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and
unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a
connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and
where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a
couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4
mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new
X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the
broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need
to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount
paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my
soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I
sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin
looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect
wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on
my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on
after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have
any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should
or shouldn't do?
Peter
Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y protegido por Avast.
|
|
Re: HP DVM / DMM technological history
Also the 3421A Data Acquisition Unit has voltage input terminals on the front panel IIRC.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2016, at 2:39 PM, Jeremy Nichols jn6wfo@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Don't forget the 5265A Digital Voltmeter plug-in for the 5245-series counters!
Jeremy
N6WFO
|
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30 wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries. Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
|
Service Training Mamual for HP 8566 / 8568
Would anyone have any interest in my Service Training manual for the HP 8566A/B and 8568A/B?
This is NOT the service guide but rather a thick binder covering the circuit description with some schematics. This book was used during my service training at a two-week seminar at HP's Rohnert Park facility for these models.?
Please contact me off-list if interested.
$ 50 + $ 20 shipping
Steve
|
Re: HP DVM / DMM technological history
Don't forget the 5265A Digital Voltmeter plug-in for the 5245-series
counters!
Jeremy
N6WFO
On 2/16/2016 6:00 AM, d.garrido@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hello All,
I am doing a bit of research to accomplish a
comprehensive understanding of the DVM / DMM technology
from the late fifties and early sixties into the 90's.
?I have come up with what I think is a list that covers
the models I should be looking into. ?Are there any more
digital meters that should be added?
405
2401
2402
3435
3440
3450
3455
3456
3460
3465
3490
Cheers,
David
|
Re: HP8593A Power Supply repair
see msg# 67510 in the group messages..
Regards John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 17-Feb-16 5:00:31 AM, newsong777@... [hp_agilent_equipment] (hp_agilent_equipment@...) wrote:
Roumen, I would like to have a copy of the power supply schematics if it is possible. My HP8591A has the low 5.2 volt supply problem that others have mentioned. I am very experienced in this type of electronics and I would like to find a solution that is lasting and that I can share with others.
We have a family friend in Burgas and relatives in Russia, we are in the US.
Ted
Posted by: newsong777@...
Reply via web post[Links to ]
???
Reply to sender [Links to mailto:newsong777@...?subject=Re%3A%20HP8593A%20Power%20Supply%20repair]
???
Reply to group [Links to mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...?subject=Re%3A%20HP8593A%20Power%20Supply%20repair]
???
|
I thought I would summarize a somewhat meandering thread.
I¡¯ve received the Artek manual and it is great!?
It appears I do have a failing ROM IC.?
As time went by HP changed from 4 4k*8 chips to 2 8k*8 chips and there is a way to jumper some boards to tell it which is installed.? (Joe: is that just the A/B jumpers near U5, or is it more than that?).? Apparently there are even some 3325a¡¯s with 3 ROM ics.
The HP nano-processor only has 11 address lines for a 12 bit space and so they played games to extract the 12 bit.? In the 4-chip solution, each chip has 2 select pins which are used in such a way as to provide the top 2 most significant bits.
Thus far, I have not found a 4k*8 EPROM or EEPROM that is pin-compatible with the original Synertek Sy2332/Motorola MCM88A332 masked ROM.? The TMS2532 are almost right, but lack the second select pin. [I keep seeing this listed even in historical literature as pin-compatible, but it is not according to the data sheets.? I¡¯ve seen this so many places that I wonder if the datasheets are wrong and pin 20 can be used as a second select.]
The original 2-IC solution used the Motorola MCM68764C EEPROM.? A later version of that chip? is the Motorola MCM68766.? Joe has previously extracted the 2-IC ROM program.? I would guess that the 4-IC data is the same, just split between chips.? I also think the data is the same independent of options as otherwise the signature analysis info would have to change between machines, and it does not.
My repair options include:
4 IC¡¯s.? This looks to require some extra glue logic to decode the second select unless a pin-compatible EEPROM can be found.? It would also require me to extract my data or split the existing 2-IC data.
2 IC¡¯s.? This only requires some jumper changes and the ROM program is already available.
1 IC solution.? Because the 3325a already decodes the 2 select pins as if they¡¯re address pins, this would only require a simple pin-remapping board for the new IC.
Option B looks like the obvious choice except that I have so far only been able to find used replacement EEPROMs and I wonder about the longevity of those.
I¡¯d also like to help the next person that needs to fix the ROM in a 3325a, and that argues for Option C.? Once option C is chosen almost any parallel ROM can be used and I¡¯m seeing some flash-ROM with a listed lifetime of 100+ years.
Does anyone have a favorite 16k*8 EEPROM ic that is common and likely to be available for a few more years?
|
Re: 8590E Video Display problem
Depending on the model the 8590 series video displays have different horizontal sweep rates. The video displays are externally identical but the 8590A has a lower sweep rate (15,750 Hz?) than the 8590L and I assume your 8590E (19KHz?). A horizontal oscillator precision capacitor to set the free running value has a different value depending on the models.
Someone may have swapped the display section not knowing this or your caps may have shifted values and you cannot sync up the displays until you "kick in the seat of the pants".
Check the horizontal sync signal at the video display and then see if it approximately matches the free running oscillator value;.
WB6IQS, John, Vista, CA
--------------------------------------------
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, 2/16/16, pbbob426@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 8590E Video Display problem
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 2016, 2:27 PM
?I have an HP 8590E in which there is
no video on initial power up. But consistently, if I shut
the 8590E down anytime after about 2 minutes and turn it
again, the display is perfect - until the next cold
start.?
Anyone have any ideas what
may be causing this?
BobD
|
Free for shipping: HP 412A
Free for shipping ( We believe this thing will fit into a USPS large flat rate box ($26) to the lower 48: All electronic innards are there, including panel and meter and all panel switches. Outer case and carry handle in good condition . ?No tubes or test leads or front bezel. AC cord has been snipped off.
Thank You Kiss Electronics Cornelius, Oregon Ms Ashley Hall W7DUZ
|
Re: 8590E Video Display problem
On 2/16/2016 5:27 PM, pbbob426@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: I have an HP 8590E in which there is no video on initial power up. But
consistently, if I shut the 8590E down anytime after about 2 minutes and
turn it again, the display is perfect - until the next cold start.
Anyone have any ideas what may be causing this?
Bad cap somewhere...holding an address line down on a cold start ...then on a warm start the cap is feeling better and lets the address line come up faster -- Dave Manuals@... www.ArtekManuals.com
|
Date set for next Sphere Stuff Day/Ham Swap Meet
After lots of data collection, historical weather checking, and polling, Saturday, APRIL 9th
is
the date for the next Sphere Stuff Day and Okanagan Valley-wide Radio
Amateur swap meet. This gives those in Washington & Oregon time to
recover from Puyallup, and should be good weather for both travel and
display for everybody. This will be at Sphere Research, in West Kelowna,
BC, about 4 hours from Vancouver.? See our website for all the contact
details and exact address. Starts 9am, but set up for those to display starts at 7am, and we can accommodate 2 Rvs and some limited overnight guests.
We will have tons of test equipment, (Tek, HP, Boonton, Fluke, PMI/Wavetek and much more) spare parts, plug-in modules, manuals and salvage units. Also tons of free electronic goodies of all kinds, as well as dirt cheap items, PLUS a wide range of ham gear and related items from ICOM to Collins for selling, swapping and testing. There is a lot of very cool stuff we are clearing out to make space, so whether you want RF parts, transmitting tubes, test gear, CRTs, nicads, scopes, meters, parts or what-have-you, you WILL find it here. There will also be solar panels, tons of high quality panel meters, Tek 11K items, time code systems (for that home launch pad you've been working on), and a huge assortment of crystals, filters and precision oscillator modules. Susan will also provide Visa/MC and Paypal services for payments if needed.
Want
space to show and sell your gear, just CONTACT WALTER to reserve a
spot, strictly first come, first served. Trunk/truck sales are fine, or
you can set up a table, as you wish. We can provide power for some
locations, and we will have some interesting test gear to allow you to
demo and verify your stuff. YES,
we take requests for specific items you may be interested in, and YES
we will post a list in advance of some key items and prices for those
that just can't get up here, but shipping costs can be annoying for big
items, which is exactly why we suggest showing up in person.
Those that have been here in the past have had a great time, so we
invite you to drop by and snorkel through the goodies to your heart's
content. Plus, who knows what fabulous treasures others will bring to
trade?
We may also be able to set up a BBQ spot for snacks, and we will
have off-air frequency checks, RF power testing, and a master frequency
reference to let you check your counters and other gear. Plus, lots of
help and advice from a great cross-section of people you don't get to
see so often.
All
in all, it should be a great time. RSVP if you need exhibit space, or
just to say hi, and remember that we do take requests to set out just
the items you need (we have 4 storage buildings, we can't set it ALL
out). If you have been missing a good surplus store experience for a
while, come by and get that taken care of here!
Remember, Saturday, April 9th. I will post again as we get closer to remind you of the date.
all the best, walter & susan (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca) sphere research corp.
|
8590E Video Display problem
I have an HP 8590E in which there is no video on initial power up. But consistently, if I shut the 8590E down anytime after about 2 minutes and turn it again, the display is perfect - until the next cold start.?
Anyone have any ideas what may be causing this?
BobD
|
Re: Weinschel step attenuator gets stuck
Tom,
Afraid I don't have any help with this problem but a very warm welcome to the HP group. For those who don't recognise Tom's name and callsign, he is the brilliant designer of the DG8SAQ vector network analyser, VNWA.
I built an early kit and have had?a lot of fun and learned much. With retirement coming up, I will have time to explore a lot more of the amazing functionality Tom has developed it?and continues to do so?with new software releases. I urge anyone with any interest in VNAs up to 1.3Ghz to check out the Yahoo VNWA group.
Ian G3XYV
|
Jeremy Nichols