Re: HP 3468 DMM battery change
I finally had time to get back to it tonight. Joe mentioned power supply voltages. I had checked random points to make sure the power supply was running but I failed to check all the voltages at the service jumpers. When I did, all but the -15V rails were very low. I disconnected the jumpers one by one but nothing past them was dragging the voltages down. I thought I had it narrowed down to one of the temperature sense resistors. I was looking over the board with magnifiers when I spotted a small piece of solder shorting two pins of the main regulator (U701). I didn't see it before because it was hidden under the heat sink. Must have happened when I did the battery change.
So I'm up and running. All I have to do is calibrate it and I think it'll be good to go. So thanks, all of you who made suggestions. I broke the cardinal rule of checking all voltages first. I really appreciate your help.
Ken
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--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "J. L. Trantham" wrote:
Did you check the power supply voltages?
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...] On Behalf Of xyloeye
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 1:52 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: HP 3468 DMM battery change
Yeah, I disconnected the battery overnight and shorted the RAM chip Vcc to
gnd to clear any leftover capcitance, etc. That had no effect. I'm kind of
thinking maybe something was on the verge of failure and I pushed it over
the edge. Problem is, even if I narrow it down to a component, all of the
chips are unobtainable now.
Thanks again for your help Jeff.
Ken
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@...
, Jeff Machesky wrote:
You may need to disconnect the battery again to allow the RAM to "zero"
out. Well at least not be in it's present state.
Just a thought,
Jeff
On 1/17/2013 5:16 PM, xyloeye wrote:
Thanks for your reply. You're right, error 1 is calibration RAM. I
tried to calibrate it but since the display is dead, it's hard to do.
When the lead fell off I'm positive it didn't touch anything else. I
just can't figure out how disconnecting the battery would cause a dead
display.
Ken
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@...
, "J. L. Trantham" wrote:
I tried to remove and read the contents of the ROM on my 3478A. In the
process, I apparently shorted the 5 V line to ground, which somehow
killed
the contents of the CALRAM. In any event, there was a message about
Calibration. I then replaced the battery and went through the recalibration
steps and all was well.
According to the manual for the 3468A, Error 1 is 'Calibration RAM Error'.
Error 2 is 'RAM Error'.
I suspect that the issue is that you lost the RAM contents for the
Calibration RAM. Have you tried to calibrate the unit? Have you
checked
the power supplies?
The alternative is once the lead slipped off, it 'connected' to something
else and took out something. Was it the + or - lead?
Sounds like you need to go the service manual and start with the
trouble
shooting section, probably Service Group E, and go from there.
Good luck.
Joe
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...
] On Behalf Of xyloeye
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 2:06 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP 3468 DMM battery change
I'm having some trouble with a battery change in a 3468 DMM. You would think
I could handle that without incident! I kept 3 volts on the terminals while
soldering in the new battery but one of the leads slipped off and there went
the calibration. No problem - I can calibrate it again or so I thought. The
display flashed "error 1" (ram error)and then went blank. It's been blank
ever since despite all the resetting procedures I've tried. Could corrupt
ram cause this? Or is could I have somehow damaged the controller? Any
thoughts would be appreciated.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: 8563E +28V shutdown/oscillates
I was suspecting overheat as well, but wasn't the case. Turns out it WAS low input voltage - there were 2 x 180uF 40V caps going bad in the low voltage side feeding the LM317 regulator.
There are 4 of these caps in total, and 3 of them were degraded, so I replaced all 4 with 220uF 50V caps.
Things are running properly now. Odd thing is these caps have a useless lead coming out of the top of the can, axial style, and the working leads are radial style. So 3 leads to unsolder. Weird. Thought it might be for shielding.
Thanks everybody.
Colin VE3MSC
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At 03:35 PM 2013-01-12, Dan Meeks wrote: IF it takes seconds to cycle on and off, suspect that it's overheating and
protecting itself. The junction temp would be in the 150-160C range, so the
IC would be really, really hot.
From your last post it sounds like the input voltage is what's dropping out?
That'll do it, too!
Good luck -
Dan
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Hmmmmm...There are other units that use the 1345A display ...I'll do
some poking tomorrow maybe a clue there
Dave
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On 1/19/2013 9:31 PM, ChuckA wrote:
Dave,
The board has only HP numbers and labels and the display unit is a stock
1345A.
The board appears to be divided with the program ROM on the left,
display driver in the center, and the global RAM on the right. Maybe
with lots of coffee I can read through the A8 "how it works" and try to
match it with the new board.
Chuck
On 1/19/2013 10:15 PM, Artekmedia wrote:
Chuck
I just looked and your right.....this has all the fingerprints of being
another "3rd Party" drop in like the power supplies starting in the 90's
...a close look at the board and other stuff related to the display
assembly might reveal the original / "real" manufacturer and trace it
that way?
Dave
On 1/19/2013 8:59 PM, ChuckA wrote:
I recently purchased another 3562A analyzer, this one is late production
I believe 1990. I have repaired two other units, earlier production
(1984/85). Of course there is a major change between the units, the A8
RAM/Display board isn't used and a new board (A38) is used for the A8
and A3 ROM board.
Problem is there is no display, the display unit is good as I can put
it in the setup mode and everything checks out. I have the service
manual for the later unit and the meager troubleshooting fix for "No
Display" is replace the A38 board. Oh yes, one other thing, there's no
schematic for that board in the manual. In fact other then a passing
note about the replacement board, there is nothing about the A38 board
in the manual.
Does anyone have any experience with this failure mode that could
point me in the direction of what part(s) to try replacing first? Or
have any documentation on this board?
Thanks
Chuck
--
See Early TV at:
www.myvintagetv.com
--
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
www.Artekmanuals.com
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265
|
Dave,
The board has only HP numbers and labels and the display unit is a stock 1345A.
The board appears to be divided with the program ROM on the left, display driver in the center, and the global RAM on the right. Maybe with lots of coffee I can read through the A8 "how it works" and try to match it with the new board.
Chuck
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On 1/19/2013 10:15 PM, Artekmedia wrote: Chuck
I just looked and your right.....this has all the fingerprints of being
another "3rd Party" drop in like the power supplies starting in the 90's
...a close look at the board and other stuff related to the display
assembly might reveal the original / "real" manufacturer and trace it
that way?
Dave
On 1/19/2013 8:59 PM, ChuckA wrote:
I recently purchased another 3562A analyzer, this one is late production
I believe 1990. I have repaired two other units, earlier production
(1984/85). Of course there is a major change between the units, the A8
RAM/Display board isn't used and a new board (A38) is used for the A8
and A3 ROM board.
Problem is there is no display, the display unit is good as I can put
it in the setup mode and everything checks out. I have the service
manual for the later unit and the meager troubleshooting fix for "No
Display" is replace the A38 board. Oh yes, one other thing, there's no
schematic for that board in the manual. In fact other then a passing
note about the replacement board, there is nothing about the A38 board
in the manual.
Does anyone have any experience with this failure mode that could
point me in the direction of what part(s) to try replacing first? Or
have any documentation on this board?
Thanks
Chuck
--
See Early TV at:
www.myvintagetv.com
|
Chuck
I just looked and your right.....this has all the fingerprints of being
another "3rd Party" drop in like the power supplies starting in the 90's
...a close look at the board and other stuff related to the display
assembly might reveal the original / "real" manufacturer and trace it
that way?
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/19/2013 8:59 PM, ChuckA wrote:
I recently purchased another 3562A analyzer, this one is late production
I believe 1990. I have repaired two other units, earlier production
(1984/85). Of course there is a major change between the units, the A8
RAM/Display board isn't used and a new board (A38) is used for the A8
and A3 ROM board.
Problem is there is no display, the display unit is good as I can put
it in the setup mode and everything checks out. I have the service
manual for the later unit and the meager troubleshooting fix for "No
Display" is replace the A38 board. Oh yes, one other thing, there's no
schematic for that board in the manual. In fact other then a passing
note about the replacement board, there is nothing about the A38 board
in the manual.
Does anyone have any experience with this failure mode that could
point me in the direction of what part(s) to try replacing first? Or
have any documentation on this board?
Thanks
Chuck
--
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
www.Artekmanuals.com
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265
|
I recently purchased another 3562A analyzer, this one is late production I believe 1990. I have repaired two other units, earlier production (1984/85). Of course there is a major change between the units, the A8 RAM/Display board isn't used and a new board (A38) is used for the A8 and A3 ROM board.
Problem is there is no display, the display unit is good as I can put it in the setup mode and everything checks out. I have the service manual for the later unit and the meager troubleshooting fix for "No Display" is replace the A38 board. Oh yes, one other thing, there's no schematic for that board in the manual. In fact other then a passing note about the replacement board, there is nothing about the A38 board in the manual.
Does anyone have any experience with this failure mode that could point me in the direction of what part(s) to try replacing first? Or have any documentation on this board?
Thanks
Chuck
|
Re: [TestEquipTrader] A Source for Tools Etc
I get my tools from the local pawn shop.
They almost always have sockets, wrenches, hex wrenches, screw drivers and pliers.
I have found Greenlee power socket testers, cable testers and battery operated power tools.
Machinist tools are common.
The prices are good: I usually pick out 15 to 20 items and they take $10.00 for the lot.
This includes Craftsman and Snap-On tools.
The pawn shop offers no warranty, but, Sears will replace a bad tool without question.
73
Glenn
WB4UIV
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At 05:47 PM 1/19/2013, J. Forster wrote: This afternoon, I was in the crafts store Michaels and browsed the section
for metal jewelery making. They actually have a very nice selection of
various kinds of fine pliers, including needle and round nose, and various
cutters. For things needing 'a bit of adjustment' they also had a fairly
good collection of small hammers.
Prices were not cheap ($10 - $20) but today, there are few places where
you can get a good look at tools before buying. Certainly, they have a far
better selection than Sears or most chain hardware stores.
They also had some nice, small, thin metal sheets.
YMMV,
-John
=================
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
eBay lists the binding post assembly for 99 dollars. I see why you didn't want to pay it.
Regards.
Max. K 4 O DS.
Email: max@...
Transistor site
Vacuum tube site:
Woodworking site
Music site:
To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscribe@...
To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
funwithtubes-subscribe@...
To subscribe to the fun with wood group send a blank email to
funwithwood-subscribe@...
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----- Original Message ----- From: <d.seiter@...> To: "hp agilent equipment" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 7:07 PM Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Binding post repair?
About a month ago I got a 3456A that had a few issues (test faults 4 and 7) including a really bent guard binding post. Trouble shooting the test errors had me going in circles, so I decided to look at the post issue. I knew from experience that just trying to bend it back was going to snap it off, but I just had to try anyway, and.... snap there it was in my hand. While the replacement assemblies with 5 binding posts are available, there is no way I'm going to pay for one! I'm thinking about drilling out the balance of the post and fitting a new insulated post in the hole. It doesn't even have to to be a screw post, just a banana jack would do. Anyone had to do this before? Oh, lest I forget, I was trying to remove the PCB behind the connector, but the center snap post wouldn't release, so I grabbed it with a channel lock and gave it a yank. Out it came, but the nice thing was that after I reinstalled it, and powered up the unit (thinking I probably made things worse!) it passed the tests and seems to be working fine. Previously, it did nothing but show "OL" on all functions. -Dave
_,___
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
About a month ago I got a 3456A that had a few issues (test faults 4 and 7) including a really bent guard binding post. Trouble shooting the test errors had me going in circles, so I decided to look at the post issue. I knew from experience that just trying to bend it back was going to snap it off, but I just had to try anyway, and.... snap there it was in my hand. While the replacement assemblies with 5 binding posts are available, there is no way I'm going to pay for one! I'm thinking about drilling out the balance of the post and fitting a new insulated post in the hole. It doesn't even have to to be a screw post, just a banana jack would do. Anyone had to do this before? Oh, lest I forget, I was trying to remove the PCB behind the connector, but the center snap post wouldn't release, so I grabbed it with a channel lock and gave it a yank. Out it came, but the nice thing was that after I reinstalled it, and powered up the unit (thinking I probably made things worse!) it passed the tests and seems to be working fine. Previously, it did nothing but show "OL" on all functions. -Dave
_,___
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Re: CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE ELECTRICAL SCM22D/7-1HP
he bought the connector board was sunk lower and it cracked in the middle, someone has some
this connector to me or sell me indicates it is really like this
Thanks?
Joarez
________________________________
De: jsiczkoriz <jsiczkoriz@...>
Para: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Enviadas: Sábado, 19 de Janeiro de 2013 16:52
Assunto: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE ELECTRICAL SCM22D/7-1HP
?
after buying the item on ebay :
3 pieces very happy
I weld it on my HP3586B to put the same plate cracked in half, after he and soldering
put another new same split in half to my surprise although 22 pins each route
he and thinner to put the board splits in the middle, who can help me with the original connector
can be used or direct me to some one who really
Thanks
Joarez
|
Re: Foam conductor problems
On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 3:46 PM, Dr. David Kirkby <david.kirkby@...> wrote: No, he is referring to a type of interboard connector which consists
of stiff wires embedded in elastomer. It's in the same family as
zebra strips, but works for higher current applications. Does it have to be conductive throughout the volume, or would surface
conductivity do?
Neither, it's a nonconductive elastomer with wires embedded to provide conductivity along one axis only. I don't remember who made it. Anyway, the OP was saying that it's so unreliable that he replaced it with a hard connector, so he's not looking for a source.
|
Re: A Source for Tools Etc
Their (and Hobby Lobby, Hobby Town USA, etc.) brass sheets would appear to
make a good substrate for making a 'short' for calibrating 16047x
attachments to HP LCR's. I have wanted to do this but haven't yet. The
pattern is in various publications for the attachments and meters.
Anyone with experience with this? I have heard that these 'shorts' are
available from Agilent for about $30 or so. I just looked on the Agilent
website for part number 5000-4226, available at $28.03 but noticed that it
has been replaced by P/N 16047-00640 at $8.88. What's wrong with this
picture?
I guess you could get one from Agilent, use it as the 'reference', then
check the 'home-made' one against it over time. However, for $8.88, why
bother?
Joe
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...] On Behalf Of J. Forster
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 4:47 PM
To: ArmyRadios@...
Cc: ARC5@...; GenRad@...;
hp_agilent_equipment@...; Milsurplus@...;
Tekscopes2@...; TestEquipTrader@...;
Vintage-Military-RADAR@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] A Source for Tools Etc
This afternoon, I was in the crafts store Michaels and browsed the section
for metal jewelery making. They actually have a very nice selection of
various kinds of fine pliers, including needle and round nose, and various
cutters. For things needing 'a bit of adjustment' they also had a fairly
good collection of small hammers.
Prices were not cheap ($10 - $20) but today, there are few places where
you can get a good look at tools before buying. Certainly, they have a far
better selection than Sears or most chain hardware stores.
They also had some nice, small, thin metal sheets.
YMMV,
-John
=================
|
Re: A Source for Tools Etc
If you wander over the the beadwork section of Michaels, you'll find
inexpensive ( $2.00) 17 compartment plastic storage boxes, made by
Darcy. Quite useful for hardware and parts storage.
They also have smaller hinged lid boxes, color coded by number of
compartments and the 5 and 6 compartment versions (think that's the
correct number) are ideal for BNC and N attenuator storage, one per
compartment.
Jack K8ZOA
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On 1/19/2013 5:47 PM, J. Forster wrote:
This afternoon, I was in the crafts store Michaels and browsed the section
for metal jewelery making. They actually have a very nice selection of
various kinds of fine pliers, including needle and round nose, and various
cutters. For things needing 'a bit of adjustment' they also had a fairly
good collection of small hammers.
Prices were not cheap ($10 - $20) but today, there are few places where
you can get a good look at tools before buying. Certainly, they have a far
better selection than Sears or most chain hardware stores.
They also had some nice, small, thin metal sheets.
YMMV,
-John
=================
|
Re: [TestEquipTrader] A Source for Tools Etc
Hobby Lobby carries a similar stock.
Also, since most of it comes from China anyhow, Harbor Freight carries
many small tools.
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Show quoted text
This afternoon, I was in the crafts store Michaels and browsed the section
for metal jewelery making. They actually have a very nice selection of
various kinds of fine pliers, including needle and round nose, and various
cutters. For things needing 'a bit of adjustment' they also had a fairly
good collection of small hammers.
Prices were not cheap ($10 - $20) but today, there are few places where
you can get a good look at tools before buying. Certainly, they have a far
better selection than Sears or most chain hardware stores.
They also had some nice, small, thin metal sheets.
YMMV,
-John
--
Thanks! & 73, KD4E.com
David Colburn nevils-station.com
I don't google I SEARCH! duckduckgo.com
Network: groups.yahoo.com/group/qrv
Restored to design-spec at Heaven's gate 1Cor15:22
|
This afternoon, I was in the crafts store Michaels and browsed the section
for metal jewelery making. They actually have a very nice selection of
various kinds of fine pliers, including needle and round nose, and various
cutters. For things needing 'a bit of adjustment' they also had a fairly
good collection of small hammers.
Prices were not cheap ($10 - $20) but today, there are few places where
you can get a good look at tools before buying. Certainly, they have a far
better selection than Sears or most chain hardware stores.
They also had some nice, small, thin metal sheets.
YMMV,
-John
=================
|
Re: Foam conductor problems
On 01/19/13 04:48 PM, David DiGiacomo wrote: No, he is referring to a type of interboard connector which consists
of stiff wires embedded in elastomer. It's in the same family as
zebra strips, but works for higher current applications. Does it have to be conductive throughout the volume, or would surface conductivity do? There are plenty of companies selling conductive plastics. was my first hit with Google, but there are tons more. -- Dr. David Kirkby Ph.D C.Eng MIET
|
Re: CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE ELECTRICAL SCM22D/7-1HP
after buying the item on ebay :
3 pieces very happy
I weld it on my HP3586B to put the same plate cracked in half, after he and soldering
put another new same split in half to my surprise although 22 pins each route
he and thinner to put the board splits in the middle, who can help me with the original connector
can be used or direct me to some one who really
Thanks
Joarez
|
Re: Foam conductor problems
On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 8:05 AM, Peter Bunge <bunge@...> wrote: My two Advantest TR5823H did not work because of bad conductive foam in the pushbutton switches. I opened all of the switches and put a dab of conductive stuff sold to repair rear window defrosters in cars. It has been several years now and there is no sign of the problem returning. I hope I am referring to the same kind of conductive foam switches, I have not been following this thread. No, he is referring to a type of interboard connector which consists of stiff wires embedded in elastomer. It's in the same family as zebra strips, but works for higher current applications.
|
Re: Hello, and 16500A memory sizes
On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 4:05 PM, Glen Slick <glen.slick@...> wrote: **
On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 7:50 AM, Chris Jones chris@...> wrote:
Now I've installed ROMs version 00.02, and the 16500A has developed a
new fault: the self-tests 'HIL Controller', 'Front Panel' and 'Touch
Screen'
all fail. I thought it was a software problem but putting the old 00.00
ROMs back in the problem is still there. I'm hoping it's just a bent pin
on the backplane connector or something but it's very annoying to get this
far and have a new fault to deal with, apparently unrelated to the RAM.
Has anyone got experience of what's likely to cause these three self-test
failures?
Chris Don't all of those things connect through the same ribbon cable
between the front panel and the CPU board? Are you sure that cable
was reconnected correctly at both ends when you reinstalled the CPU
board? Or does that cable connect between the front panel and the
backplane board? It's been a while since I opened up a 16500.
Yes, I think they do - there's a 10-way ribbon with IDC connectors between the backplane and the front panel which looks like it carries the data. I checked that it was properly seated, and unplugged and reinserted it, but with no effect. I think on the later machines this 10-way ribbon is somehow associated with the display cable, isn't it? Anyhow, since it comes from the backplane in the 16500A, I'm assuming that the signals to it must cross the CPU board/backplane connector at some point, and I hope that the problem is simply a bent pin or similar there. Chris
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Re: [TekScopes2] "Event logging" T & M equipment?
Companies like Dranitz make boxes specifically for that purpose. Older
ones can be bought pretty cheaply. They will likely need new batteries.
-John
==============
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Data logging devices are commonplace now days. Many high-end multimeters
have such a feature where you can plug the meter up to a power source and
record levels over time.
But I'm interested in recording out-of-bounds events such as spikes and
sags in mains supply.
This type of measurement is typically only found in power systems
analyzers which are quite "$pendy".
Anybody know of an event logger that is affordable?
THanks,
Dave
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