I am having attenuator problems also, with a Marconi TF1066/4. The attenuator rack, made of plastic, had broken because the generator had been removed from the case carelessly. I repaired it with epoxy and the repair looks very good. The attenuator moves smoothly and works well.
However, the calibration is wrong. The output from the generator is about 10dB less than the attenuator says. The pickup coil is as far into the tube as it will go; any farther and it contacts the coil. There is no means I can see for rotating the pickup coil, so I am puzzled as to why the output is low.
I tried increasing the carrier level, assuming that wasn't calibrated, but even at maximum the output is several dB below the dial reading.
Any ideas? This is a true boat anchor, and is way too big and heavy for what it does. I want to get it working properly so I can see about selling it. It has many great features, and covers from 10 to 470 MHz, AM and FM and so on. And it's a nice looking unit, with two big circular dials with two pretty meters and light blue control knobs.
Bob
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Fri, 12/21/12, Doug <dmcgarrett@...> wrote: From: Doug <dmcgarrett@...>
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP-608A Repair
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Cc: "Steve Vineyard" <willltinker@...>
Date: Friday, December 21, 2012, 9:39 AM
On 12/21/2012 10:05 AM, Steve
Vineyard wrote:
HP 608D's are good units, just big. If you are going to
use it and
space is not a problem, by all means fix it if you do not have to spend
too much.
But keep in mind the market for these is very slow and they do not bring
much anymore. Most people don't have the space and newer smaller design
seem to have pushed them aside. Not that they are any better, just
smaller.
I have one I keep for a back up, but use the two HP8656A's I have most
of the time (smaller, easier to setup, little warm up time). I think I
gave only $75 for mine several years ago. Not sure it would bring that
now.
At least that is what the market looks like in my world.
Hope this helps.
Steve, KJ5RV
/snip/
Some years ago, I was at a ham flea-market and found a nice
Tek scope cart.
I asked how much, and was told that I had to take "this"
with it, and it was
$25.? "This" was an HP608E.? So I took it. The 608
works, except there is
something flaky in the attenuator.? (I really don't
understand that,
since the
attenuator depends on physics, not resistors or pots, but
anyway. . . .
--doug, WA2SAY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
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|
Doug, IIRC the 608's had a resistor in the end of the attenuator probe. The resistors would fry if someone testing a transceiver inadvertently transmitted into the output of the generator. Steve WB0DBS On Dec 21, 2012, at 11:39 AM, Doug <dmcgarrett@...> wrote: On 12/21/2012 10:05 AM, Steve Vineyard wrote:
HP 608D's are good units, just big. If you are going to use it and
space is not a problem, by all means fix it if you do not have to spend
too much.
But keep in mind the market for these is very slow and they do not bring
much anymore. Most people don't have the space and newer smaller design
seem to have pushed them aside. Not that they are any better, just
smaller.
I have one I keep for a back up, but use the two HP8656A's I have most
of the time (smaller, easier to setup, little warm up time). I think I
gave only $75 for mine several years ago. Not sure it would bring that
now.
At least that is what the market looks like in my world.
Hope this helps.
Steve, KJ5RV
/snip/
Some years ago, I was at a ham flea-market and found a nice Tek scope cart.
I asked how much, and was told that I had to take "this" with it, and it was
$25. "This" was an HP608E. So I took it. The 608 works, except there is
something flaky in the attenuator. (I really don't understand that,
since the
attenuator depends on physics, not resistors or pots, but anyway. . . .
--doug, WA2SAY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
In regard to the question about someone who could repair an HP-608, as I recall Ashley Hall used to work on these units. I believe she is a member of this group, and I note that she is currently running an ad on ebay for repair services on HP410B and HP410C units - the ad is ebay item number 230899227668. Her ebay handle is cornelius_connie I have never done business with her but she has a 100% rating on ebay and from her posts to this list she is knowledgeable and helpful
73s Bob Krassa AC0JL
|
On 12/21/2012 10:05 AM, Steve Vineyard wrote:
HP 608D's are good units, just big. If you are going to use it and
space is not a problem, by all means fix it if you do not have to spend
too much.
But keep in mind the market for these is very slow and they do not bring
much anymore. Most people don't have the space and newer smaller design
seem to have pushed them aside. Not that they are any better, just
smaller.
I have one I keep for a back up, but use the two HP8656A's I have most
of the time (smaller, easier to setup, little warm up time). I think I
gave only $75 for mine several years ago. Not sure it would bring that
now.
At least that is what the market looks like in my world.
Hope this helps.
Steve, KJ5RV
/snip/ Some years ago, I was at a ham flea-market and found a nice Tek scope cart. I asked how much, and was told that I had to take "this" with it, and it was $25. "This" was an HP608E. So I took it. The 608 works, except there is something flaky in the attenuator. (I really don't understand that, since the attenuator depends on physics, not resistors or pots, but anyway. . . . --doug, WA2SAY
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@...> To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 5:37 PM Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP-608A Repair
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Albert" <bob91343@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP-608A Repair
My message was intended for Bob only. One has to be careful about replying to list messages. Sorry about the personal stuff. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickburk@...
|
The nice big old lab/bench type DMMs will usually be a good deal in terms of performance v. price, since most people are looking for more modern, smaller types. Unless you plan to become a volt-nut, you likely won't need to go beyond six digits of resolution, so DMMs in the HP3456A class are just right for the top-end of a home lab, and can be used as the standard to calibrate all lesser equipment.
I have a 3456A, but I prefer the 3455A - I recently added a second, fixed with a simple repair. I've collected these over several years, and some Fluke 8400A five digit models, and a couple of Dana five digit ones. As I recall, I paid around USD30 to USD75 for the HPs in unknown working condition (they were OK or needed only minor repairs), and about USD5 to USD15 for the others.
The HPs usually sit on the shelf, to be brought out only for high precision work. The Flukes are the workhorses, used all the time for bench stuff. The most used, however, are those $3 handheld, disposable ones from Harbor Freight - good enough for routine work, and when in doubt, double checked with a Fluke.
So, portability is important, but it's nice to have at least one really high performance lab/bench unit available.
If you read entirely message #48085 from a couple of weeks back, you will see some more detailed discussion of DMM issues. Note that this thread was about the HP34(65)A - a crappy 4.5 digit model - not to be confused with the HP34(56)A, the nice 6 digit one presently discussed.
Ed
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., Jeff Machesky <jeff@...> wrote:
So what's a fair price for the 3456A without a known state of
calibration? I'm still looking at the 3478A's as well or maybe even the
3468A. Something really intriguing about the 3456A however. I did order
one of the fluke 8050A's just because. Found one that was powered on and
appeared very clean. Doubt I'll have it before x-mas however. Can one
really have too many meters ?
Thanks,
Jeff
On 12/20/2012 9:42 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Normal behaviour. They have VERY high input impedance on the low
voltage ranges, so any stray charge can cause a reading.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael Hong
Sent: 20 December 2012 23:23
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
Hi everyone,
I just bought two 3456As from the same dealer off eBay.
Both of them have the same problem. When they are turned on, the
number drift from low mV number and goes up to -8.nnnnn for one meter
and the other meter to -6.nnnn. And then float around there. When I
short the leads at Ohm or Volt setting, they show the near zero and
when disconnected, go to their the number again.
I expect they stay at very low mV or zero without any input. What
seems be the problem?
Thank you.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Steve, Thanks for the comments. I was sure it was not worth a whole lot so I appreciate your perspective. Yes, I do have room for it. And, like you say, if I don't have to pay too much to repair it, it would be a good unit to keep. I have a great, free source of tubes, so that won't be an issue. It is just lifting it up on the priority list. Maybe this discussion will move it up a bit. Now that I know the correct model and have the manual, it looks more doable. Thanks to all for the replies. Best Regards, Dennis, N8ERF On Fri, Dec 21, 2012 at 10:05 AM, Steve Vineyard <willltinker@...>wrote: **
HP 608D's are good units, just big. If you are going to use it and
space is not a problem, by all means fix it if you do not have to spend
too much.
But keep in mind the market for these is very slow and they do not bring
much anymore. Most people don't have the space and newer smaller design
seem to have pushed them aside. Not that they are any better, just smaller.
I have one I keep for a back up, but use the two HP8656A's I have most
of the time (smaller, easier to setup, little warm up time). I think I
gave only $75 for mine several years ago. Not sure it would bring that now.
At least that is what the market looks like in my world.
Hope this helps.
Steve, KJ5RV
Dennis Klipa wrote:
Richard and Dave,
Thanks for the leads. I did find that it is the HP 608D with the crystal
calibrator option. I also found a photo of a 608D without the crystal
calibrator.
I am still looking for someone who might repair these
things, notwithstanding the question of whether it is worth the expense.
Best Regards,
Dennis, N8ERF
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 2:58 PM, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@...
wrote:
**
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis" <klipadk@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 7:24 AM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP-608A Repair
I have a 608A that is in need of some repair. Actually, I
am not sure which "letter" it is as the label with model
and serial number is missing. The unit does work, but the
wave form is not very good in some ranges and there are a
few other issues. Is there anyone out there who
refurbishes these units. A few years ago, I found a place
on the web in Washington State, I think, that refurbished
them, but I can't find it now.
I have been telling myself that I would do it myself but I
just can't seem to get it up on the priority list. I did
search the archives but didn't find anything helpful.
There might be something but nothing popped up in my
search. Any help would be appreciated.
Best Regards,
Dennis, N8ERF
Check the -hp- archive site, there are old catalogues
at:
Also see:
where there are many photographs of older equipment and may
help to identify it.
The 608 series is shown at:
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickburk@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Looking for an HP 59401A ............
...........anyone have one to spare.
Cheers
|
HP 11660A Shunt for HP 8556A
I may have missed it somewhere but I cannot find any details on how the insides of this shunt is made. I assume it is a pure resistive divider with something like a 550 ohm resistor in series with a 50 ohm resistor which then connects to ground, with the high impedance input connected to the 550 ohm resistor and ground (across the 550 and 50 ohm resistor) and the low impedance output connected to the junction of the 550 and 50 ohm resistors and ground (across the 50 ohm resistor).
Does anyone know if this is correct or what is correct? I need to build one.
Steve, KJ5RV
|
HP 608D's are good units, just big. If you are going to use it and space is not a problem, by all means fix it if you do not have to spend too much.
But keep in mind the market for these is very slow and they do not bring much anymore. Most people don't have the space and newer smaller design seem to have pushed them aside. Not that they are any better, just smaller.
I have one I keep for a back up, but use the two HP8656A's I have most of the time (smaller, easier to setup, little warm up time). I think I gave only $75 for mine several years ago. Not sure it would bring that now.
At least that is what the market looks like in my world.
Hope this helps.
Steve, KJ5RV
Dennis Klipa wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Richard and Dave,
Thanks for the leads. I did find that it is the HP 608D with the crystal
calibrator option. I also found a photo of a 608D without the crystal
calibrator.
I am still looking for someone who might repair these
things, notwithstanding the question of whether it is worth the expense.
Best Regards,
Dennis, N8ERF
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 2:58 PM, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@...>wrote:
**
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis" <klipadk@...>
To: <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 7:24 AM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] HP-608A Repair
I have a 608A that is in need of some repair. Actually, I
am not sure which "letter" it is as the label with model
and serial number is missing. The unit does work, but the
wave form is not very good in some ranges and there are a
few other issues. Is there anyone out there who
refurbishes these units. A few years ago, I found a place
on the web in Washington State, I think, that refurbished
them, but I can't find it now.
I have been telling myself that I would do it myself but I
just can't seem to get it up on the priority list. I did
search the archives but didn't find anything helpful.
There might be something but nothing popped up in my
search. Any help would be appreciated.
Best Regards,
Dennis, N8ERF
Check the -hp- archive site, there are old catalogues
at:
Also see:
where there are many photographs of older equipment and may
help to identify it.
The 608 series is shown at:
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickburk@...
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: List of HP 70000 modules
I just posted the excel list I made some while ago, if this helps.
Steve G4KNZ.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "Bert, VE2ZAZ" <ve2zaz@...> wrote:
Hare are a few more I know of:
70312A Clock Source module (1.5GHz)
70900B Local Oscillator Module
70904A RF Section (100 Hz-2.9GHz)
Cheers,
Bert, VE2ZAZ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
New file uploaded to hp_agilent_equipment
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the hp_agilent_equipment
group.
File : /70k modules.xlsx
Uploaded by : g4knz <steve@...>
Description : 70000 model numbers
You can access this file at the URL:
To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
Regards,
g4knz <steve@...>
|
I'll say- I have one of the first HP nixie DC voltmeters (I forget the number); in auto mode it constantly cycles. I only keep it because it works flawlessly and it was the first piece of HP gear I acquired. -Dave On some meters pretty annoying, like my keithley 199 in autorange, click, click, click so I'm glad it does not start in autorange. Fred --- In hp_agilent_equipment@... , Bob Albert <bob91343@...> wrote:
I have too many meters. Well, too many I don't use, like the Ballantine 300, the HP410B, and the Heath AV-3. But I would love a 3456A or similar.
Oh and I have a 5-digit job from about 1962, Electro Instruments .01% with Nixie readout. And a Calibration Standards slideback DC voltmeter.
Bob
--- On Thu, 12/20/12, Jeff Machesky <jeff@...> wrote:
From: Jeff Machesky <jeff@...>
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Thursday, December 20, 2012, 8:54 PM
So what's a fair price for the 3456A
without a known state of
calibration? I'm still looking at the 3478A's as well or
maybe even the
3468A. Something really intriguing about the 3456A however.
I did order
one of the fluke 8050A's just because. Found one that was
powered on and
appeared very clean. Doubt I'll have it before x-mas
however. Can one
really have too many meters ?
Thanks,
Jeff
On 12/20/2012 9:42 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Normal behaviour. They have VERY high input impedance
on the low
voltage ranges, so any stray charge can cause a reading.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: hp_agilent_equipment@... <mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael Hong
Sent: 20 December 2012 23:23
To: hp_agilent_equipment@... <mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
Hi everyone,
I just bought two 3456As from the same dealer off eBay.
Both of them have the same problem. When they are turned on, the
number drift from low mV number and goes up to -8.nnnnn for one meter
and the other meter to -6.nnnn. And then float around there. When I
short the leads at Ohm or Volt setting, they show the near zero and
when disconnected, go to their the number again.
I expect they stay at very low mV or zero without any input. What
seems be the problem?
Thank you.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
hp_agilent_equipment-fullfeatured@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Re: JFET type? used in 8558B SA
David, You are absolutely right, I should have checked before I posted the link. Apologies to all, I guess that error puts in question all of the rest of the list too! Regards Greg vk5xgh
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., David DiGiacomo <daviddigiacomo@...> wrote:
Oddly, that file lists the 1855-0062 as a 2N1595, which is an SCR!
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 8:02 PM, vk5xgh <vk5xgh@...> wrote:
Symon, I have emailed you the file but have been unable to upload to the group files section, here for all others is the link to an excel file of unknown origin which contains the info for 1855-0062 and many others
Regards Greg vk5xgh
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "kennedysymon" <torview@> wrote:
Does anyone please know of an available equivalent for the HP JFET P/N 1855-0062 or what its characteristics are?
My web searches have failed
Thanks, Symon G4DND
|
I paid 100$ for mine abour 2 years ago. Love it because of the front-panel math and use it over my Fluke 8085A -- Anders Gustafsson Engineer, CNE6, ASE Pedago, The Aaland Islands (N60 E20) www.pedago.fi phone +358 18 12060 mobile +358 40506 7099 fax +358 18 14060 Jeff Machesky <jeff@...> 2012-12-21 06:54 >>>
So what's a fair price for the 3456A without a known state of calibration?
|
I have over 40 multimeters, from a 1948 GR1800A upto some 7.5 digit meters. Also nuldetectors, electrometers, sourcemeters ect.
So i do not think you have to many meters.
On topic, that is normal behaviour. On some meters pretty annoying, like my keithley 199 in autorange, click, click, click so I'm glad it does not start in autorange.
Fred
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., Bob Albert <bob91343@...> wrote:
I have too many meters. Well, too many I don't use, like the Ballantine 300, the HP410B, and the Heath AV-3. But I would love a 3456A or similar.
Oh and I have a 5-digit job from about 1962, Electro Instruments .01% with Nixie readout. And a Calibration Standards slideback DC voltmeter.
Bob
--- On Thu, 12/20/12, Jeff Machesky <jeff@...> wrote:
From: Jeff Machesky <jeff@...>
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Thursday, December 20, 2012, 8:54 PM
So what's a fair price for the 3456A
without a known state of
calibration? I'm still looking at the 3478A's as well or
maybe even the
3468A. Something really intriguing about the 3456A however.
I did order
one of the fluke 8050A's just because. Found one that was
powered on and
appeared very clean. Doubt I'll have it before x-mas
however. Can one
really have too many meters ?
Thanks,
Jeff
On 12/20/2012 9:42 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Normal behaviour. They have VERY high input impedance
on the low
voltage ranges, so any stray charge can cause a reading.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@... <mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael Hong
Sent: 20 December 2012 23:23
To: hp_agilent_equipment@... <mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
Hi everyone,
I just bought two 3456As from the same dealer off eBay.
Both of them have the same problem. When they are turned on, the
number drift from low mV number and goes up to -8.nnnnn for one meter
and the other meter to -6.nnnn. And then float around there. When I
short the leads at Ohm or Volt setting, they show the near zero and
when disconnected, go to their the number again.
I expect they stay at very low mV or zero without any input. What
seems be the problem?
Thank you.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
? ? hp_agilent_equipment-fullfeatured@...
|
Gang...
Well for my money, the 3456A is the best DMM HP ever made. While there are ones with more digits, the 3456A has outstanding stablity. Another is the front panel math functions that let you quickly dial up averages and dB conversions. I like it better than the 34401A of which I have two...
Dan in Chandler, AZ
Happy Holidays...
|
Re: JFET type? used in 8558B SA
Oddly, that file lists the 1855-0062 as a 2N1595, which is an SCR!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 8:02 PM, vk5xgh <vk5xgh@...> wrote: Symon, I have emailed you the file but have been unable to upload to the group files section, here for all others is the link to an excel file of unknown origin which contains the info for 1855-0062 and many others
Regards Greg vk5xgh
--- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., "kennedysymon" <torview@...> wrote:
Does anyone please know of an available equivalent for the HP JFET P/N 1855-0062 or what its characteristics are?
My web searches have failed
Thanks, Symon G4DND
|
Thanks Orin, couple of them on the bay right now with 10k resistors connected up. $275 is what the seller is asking. Seams a bit steep. Granted there is some kind of confidence that they are working correctly based on the readings. I can get a nice pretty battery sucking OLED Agilent handheld for a little over $400 with an NIST calibration report. Hmmm. None of it is really needed, but we all love our toys.
Thanks,
Jeff
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12/20/2012 10:13 PM, Orin Eman wrote:
About $100 if it's working with unknown calibration from looking at recent
ebay sales. Goldenrubi on ebay has sold a couple that were working and
recently calibrated at $200 obo (he'll take reasonable offers) so I'd say
$200 at the most for a working and recently calibrated unit.
I got a 3455A (note 55, not 56) earlier this year for less than $50
shipped... had a red tag saying it failed cal on 2-wire ohms. Problem was
the front-rear switch. Seems just fine otherwise.
Orin.
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 8:54 PM, Jeff Machesky <jeff@... <mailto:jeff%40codebest.com>> wrote:
So what's a fair price for the 3456A without a known state of
calibration? I'm still looking at the 3478A's as well or maybe even the
3468A. Something really intriguing about the 3456A however. I did order
one of the fluke 8050A's just because. Found one that was powered on and
appeared very clean. Doubt I'll have it before x-mas however. Can one
really have too many meters ?
Thanks,
Jeff
On 12/20/2012 9:42 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Normal behaviour. They have VERY high input impedance on the low
voltage ranges, so any stray charge can cause a reading.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Michael Hong
Sent: 20 December 2012 23:23
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:hp_agilent_equipment%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3456A Voltmeter
Hi everyone,
I just bought two 3456As from the same dealer off eBay.
Both of them have the same problem. When they are turned on, the
number drift from low mV number and goes up to -8.nnnnn for one meter
and the other meter to -6.nnnn. And then float around there. When I
short the leads at Ohm or Volt setting, they show the near zero and
when disconnected, go to their the number again.
I expect they stay at very low mV or zero without any input. What
seems be the problem?
Thank you.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Parts to repair an HP 6434B 40V 25A power supply
Take the bezel apart, and glue it back together. If you
are careful, it should even look ok. Bakelite glues ok
with cyanoacrylates, and most every other plastic does
ok with a thin solvent glue, like testors.
As to the handle, You can sometimes bend them back if you
go in small steps, and let the aluminum relax before the
next bend. The bolts that remain won't need drilling, as
once the tension is off, they should turn easily.
-Chuck Harris
James Newton wrote:
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Just purchased this thing from eBay and the seller shipped it without ANY padding
on the bottom of the box. I know they are pretty well built, but that's just
crazy... He refunded the purchase price, so I got what's left for the shipping.
Right handle sheared off the case, the ends are bent so I doubt I can drill out
the bolts and re-mount it. HP Part # 5020-5512
And the left (voltage) meter was pushed back into the case after the handle
wiggled over to that side and got pushed up against the box. The meter /may/ be
ok, but the little black plastic bezel that holds the meter in is cracked. HP part
# 4040-0296.
And the (-) binder clip is sheared off. No problem repairing that.
I can probably live without the handle. Any ideas where I can get a new bezel or
mount that meter? Very strange mounting system. Hope someone here has seen it and
knows what I'm talking about.
By way of introduction: I've been in firmware most of my life, I ran the MIT
PIClist mailing list for years and still archive it at PICList.com. I make and
sell some open source stepper drivers now and so I'm getting more into
electronics. I have a 1662C 'scope and a 1653B analyzer that I love. Can't beat
the old stuff.
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Anders