Re: HP8510C TRL Calibration
I put an 8510C driver into scikit-rf the other year that speaks the binary format and knows how to stitch sweeps, so if not it should be a quick code change especially if you already have PyVISA and scikit-rf in your codebase:
?
?
|
Re: E5052A Power On Test (3.3V Bus Supply)
Hi Jim, thanks. I obtained the cal certificate for the other E5052A today. It was calibrated less than a year ago and this one shows an even lower noise floor.? It's a slightly newer unit and it has some hardware changes although I'm not sure if these changes are the reason it is slightly cleaner than my E5052A. The service manual shows the hardware changes wrt serial number. It also has the same internal spurious frequencies as mine and they appear to be a bit higher in level. It has the backlight spurious at 60 kHz as well.
?
Looking in the service manual, it appears to describe this test at 70 MHz where a (low phase noise) PSG sig gen is used as the signal source at 70 MHz and it is passed through a 10 kHz wide BPF. Presumably some form of crystal filter? This will then shave off all noise down to the thermal level in the stopbands of the filter.
?
I tried this with my E5052A using a lower test frequency (10.7 MHz) and a 15 kHz wide crystal filter and I saw about -175 dBc/Hz at offsets above 1 MHz. Not as good as the newer E5052A but the cal certificate did quote an uncertainty of about +/- 4dB for this test type. I really should do the test at 70 MHz as well. The noise floor may be degraded for carrier frequencies as low as 10.7 MHz.
?
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Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
Hi AArnaud,
?
Congratulations for the successful repair, and for having saved another valuable HP instrument from the scrap heap !
My conclusion is somewhat identical to my initial thoughts : start by checking the "usual suspects", supply voltages and clocks.
The obvious next step for your 3403C is a complete performance check and recalibration, if you have the appropriate equipment. If you're lucky, first adjusting the calibration in DC-only voltage mode may bring the instrument back into full compliance, which of course would be great news.
After that it'll be time for another instrument repair project, and for more fun !
Cheers,
Joe;
|
Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
I recently had one destroy itself on an HP 16717a logic blade. Burned all of the
way through the pcb, great fun. I guess that was early 90s vintage.
Paul
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Mar 03, 2025 at 09:55:33AM -0800, ed breya wrote: I forgot to comment on hermetic solid Ta caps. I have seen only a few failures of these over the years, and I consider them among the best of parts for reliability. I have seen lots and lots of failures in all kinds of non-hermetic Ta caps, especially certain brands of dipped style. My experience here is with the older parts in the same vintage as most of my gear and such, so not so much about more modern parts which should be better. For instance, I have seen very few failures in surface mount style solid Ta types that are so common now. These are non-hermetic but seem to survive OK. Or, maybe after these rack up many years they may degrade like the others. Only time will tell.
Ed
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Linux/Unix - We don't do windows
|
Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
I know what you mean Dave. I've seen soldery-looking stuff on some blown dipped Ta caps - the ones that haven't been burnt to a crisp. There is some solder in those too I think, for connection to the outside surface of the slug. As I recall, the Ta oxide slug is sintered around the steel anode lead and directly bonded, while the outside of the slug is coated or plated with solder or some equivalent alloy that can connect to the steel cathode lead, then all dipped in an epoxy.
?
I think SMT ones have some solder on each end of the slug for connection to the lead/pad structures, and have the cap element structure and polarizing features worked out somehow internally.
?
I have some rather odd "leadless" SMT style solid Ta caps with interesting structure. These are orange colored with a thin coating, and no plastic encapsulation, and go directly in-circuit via the solder-tinned ends. One end has a short wire stub poking out, which is the internal anode connection and polarity marker. There's no marking at all on the bodies, so takes some guesswork to figure out. I found datasheets years ago so I could figure out the ratings by part size and measured C. I keep these for ultra-low R and L uses.
?
Ed
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Re: HP8510C TRL Calibration
Out of curiosity, did you have any speed optimization enabled on your IEEE-488 interface?
?
What software version was your 8510C running?
|
Re: HP8510C CalKit file .CK_ format
Hi Calvin,
Here is what I use for my HP8753D and 8720C, Basically I'm using GPIB to define a new calkit on the unit, then I download and save the binary blob as is. That binary blob can later be uploaded as is. It ought to be fairly easy to convert this to C.
Br Marcus
On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 11:58?PM Calvin Guan via <guancalvin= [email protected]> wrote: Hi there,
?
I'm trying to generate the calkit file CK_ programmatically instead of punching them in various GUI based CalKit manager.
?
Basically, I'm doing my homemade open and slot standards and characterize them to use as poor man's Calkit for non-critical measurement to reduce the wear and tear on my expensive Cal Kit.
?
Manually entering the polynomials and class assignments in the VNA CalKit manager is very slow and painful. I'm trying to generate it a C program so that I can send it to my 8510 either by GPIB or floppy disk but I can't find the format of the 8510 CK_ file.
?
Does anyone know?
?
Regards,
Calvin
|
Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
On 3/2/25 19:05, AArnaud via groups.io wrote: The other one ooks just as weird but is healthy according to the chinese component tester.
Are there guidelines on HP capacitor replacements? Such as caps that never/very rarely fail and those who absolutely always do?
I want to recap this unit to keep it. It's not calibrated anymore of course but it's so great. Quality long life capacitor are expensive, I don't want to replace what does not need to be. I usually "replace like with like", or at least a modern equivalent. You should see all the problems that come up with people with no electronics knowledge on the vintage computing mailing lists going off the deep end with the "recapping" craze, thinking it will cure all ills...frequently they replace electrolytics with high-K ceramic capacitors and wonder why their power supply rails don't work. ;) -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
On 3/3/25 12:41, ed breya wrote: That's an interesting picture of the failed cap. I'd guess the molten blob on the can end is just some electrical solder that ended up there by coincidence sometime in the past, or maybe from inside the part. Try hitting it with a soldering iron - it should melt. If it doesn't, then I guess it could be Ta.
Metallic tantalum does not normally look like that, all silvery and shiny, because oxides form on the surface with a range of iridescent colors. It's more of a refractory metal that would not exist molten at a temperature that wouldn't have turned the rest of the part to ash. Besides that, the "solid" Ta caps are mostly Ta oxides and very little metal, sintered into solid slugs, and I can't picture there being that much actual Ta metal present (in proportion) inside a cap of that size. There could have been that much electrical solder in there though. It's used to make internal contacts, and especially to solder the electrical leads and glass/metal hermetic sealing disc into the can. Ordinarily I would agree, but I've seen this "blob of metal on the side of a dipped Ta capacitor" failure many times, and it's always shiny and looks a lot like solder. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
|
Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
I forgot to comment on hermetic solid Ta caps. I have seen only a few failures of these over the years, and I consider them among the best of parts for reliability. I have seen lots and lots of failures in all kinds of non-hermetic Ta caps, especially certain brands of dipped style. My experience here is with the older parts in the same vintage as most of my gear and such, so not so much about more modern parts which should be better. For instance, I have seen very few failures in surface mount style solid Ta types that are so common now. These are non-hermetic but seem to survive OK. Or, maybe after these rack up many years they may degrade like the others. Only time will tell.
?
Ed
|
Re: HP 3403C True RMS Voltmeter display fault
That's an interesting picture of the failed cap. I'd guess the molten blob on the can end is just some electrical solder that ended up there by coincidence sometime in the past, or maybe from inside the part. Try hitting it with a soldering iron - it should melt. If it doesn't, then I guess it could be Ta.
?
Metallic tantalum does not normally look like that, all silvery and shiny, because oxides form on the surface with a range of iridescent colors. It's more of a refractory metal that would not exist molten at a temperature that wouldn't have turned the rest of the part to ash. Besides that, the "solid" Ta caps are mostly Ta oxides and very little metal, sintered into solid slugs, and I can't picture there being that much actual Ta metal present (in proportion) inside a cap of that size. There could have been that much electrical solder in there though. It's used to make internal contacts, and especially to solder the electrical leads and glass/metal hermetic sealing disc into the can.
?
Anyway, I think it's just solder on there, but if it is actual Ta metal, then it was quite a feat to nearly instantaneously melt down, collect a decent glob of liquid Ta inside the core, then burst the can end and eject the Ta gently into a nice external glob. All without a hint of discoloration or deformation of the can. I'm very curious about it. If you still have the part, it would be interesting to see what that actually is. Please check it out if possible.
?
Ed
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Re: 3708A Noise and Interference Test Set - Looking for a Service Manual
On Mon, Mar 3, 2025 at 05:32 PM, Gerald wrote:
Hi Jared,
?
Just uploaded service manual for 3708A to the 3000 group.
?
Regards
?
Gerald
VK3GM?
?
Fantastic! That's exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks a bunch, greatly appreciated! :)
?
Regards,
Jared
|
Re: HP 54512B (pair) repair
Radu, ? I wish you luck finding a replacement for the line filter and switch. ? Mike ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Radu Bogdan Dicher via groups.io
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2025 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 54512B (pair) repair? Mike, This is unrelated with the issues I'm having with the -12V rail. When disassembling/reassembling the scope, the EMI Filter?(more specifically, its built-in switch) and the HP arm/button broke apart. I can now either try to find replacements, or just replace?the EMI Filter with a unit having the switch accessible from the back of the scope (this type is relatively easy to find) and disable the actuation of the front button.? ? On Mon, Mar 3, 2025 at 8:16?AM Michael Bafaro via <m.bafaro=[email protected]> wrote: Radu, ? The pictures you sent appear to be the AC line filter (EMI) and the power switch and perhaps the line fuse.? If one of the supplies is off and the others are working, then the problem is somewhere else.? ? The display is a standard magnetic deflected CRT.? I worked in that group years ago at Motorola. ? Mike Bafaro ? ? Two steps forward, one step back (one and a half?).? While other things have been progressing, the power switch stopped?working once I put?most of the?unit back together. I enclose some pictures, but it's a typical flip flop type where a pin prods and finds two different locations between the?two states ON/OFF. I guess I can either look for a replacement (does anyone have one?), or try to repair it. Repairing something like this hasn't been something?I've had a lot of luck with - if anyone has some good tips, I'll take them happily - and then there's also the way the longitudinal arm (actuating the pressing of?the button on the front panel all the way to the back) is supposed to be handled. It seems to be glued with some hardened resin or something similar. In retrospect, though the SM doesn't mention this, I think the arm should be detached before removing the rear panel and moving it around. It puts too much pressure?and torque on the switch to take this easily and not get damaged.? Thank you for any pointers.? ? On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 3:20?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote: Razvan, Thank you very much, this is very helpful.? I've managed to rig a load - I had a couple of 1ohm/10W Vishay RS10s (bulletproof, in my experience), and it looks like the -12V rail is MIA because of something going on in the PS. If I can confirm?this, this would be great news (as opposed to tracking some failed tantalum decoupler or something else on the main board....).? ? Hi Radu,
I think the PSU in all 545xx series was made by Boschert Inc. and
someone already reverse engineered it. I attached the file.
I hope it helps.
Regards,
Razvan
On 02/03/2025 23:33, Radu Bogdan Dicher via wrote:
> Going back to my -12V rail issue, the SM advises loading the 5.20V rail
> with a 2ohm/25W resistor. The only way I can put something similar
> together with what I have at hand is using these dummy loads I am using
> when repairing audio amplifiers, which are a pair of 8ohm/100W non-
> inductive resistors. By paralleling?them I can load the 5.20V rail with
> a 4ohm resistor.
> What are some thoughts regarding whether this would be a suitable load
> for the PS? I think the PS just needs a low ohmic load of sufficient
> dissipation capacity and it should crank itself up to nominal, but maybe
> there's an aspect I'm overlooking.
> Thank you,
> Radu.
>
> On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 1:52?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <> > <vondicher=[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> wrote:
>
>? ? ?One of the two scopes is completely disassembled - head exploding
>? ? ?emoji - and I have the old battery desoldered after confirming?it's
>? ? ?fully depleted.
>
>? ? ?I enclose pics with what I'm using for replacement. I probably would
>? ? ?have been fine going with a 2032 type, but the 2430 I ended?up
>? ? ?fitting just right (maybe a bit snug), and the pins of the holder
>? ? ?actually match the PCB eyelets. So all is good.
>
>? ? ?I couldn't figure out what exactly was the original battery model,
>? ? ?as it's not legible even after removing the top tab, but its
>? ? ?diameter is a bit over 23mm.
>? ? ?I think this should work OK.
>
>? ? ?Back to the?actual troubleshooting now!
>? ? ?Radu.
>
>? ? ?On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 6:21?PM Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via
>? ? ?<> <roy=[email protected]
>? ? ?<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>? ? ? ? ?On Thursday 27 February 2025 04:09:31 pm Radu Bogdan Dicher via
>? ? ? ? ? <> wrote:
>? ? ? ? ? > One other unfortunate effect of the spot-welding of the top
>? ? ? ? ?tab is that the
>? ? ? ? ? > battery code is not visible. I can probably destroy the
>? ? ? ? ?battery once out,
>? ? ? ? ? > and read the CRxyzt battery code, but would anyone have good
>? ? ? ? ?info offhand
>? ? ? ? ? > on it?
>
>? ? ? ? ?You might find bits of this useful:
>
>? ? ? ? ? <>? ? ? ? ?>
>
>? ? ? ? ?Scroll down to where they discuss coin and button cells:
>
>? ? ? ? ?"IEC designation numbers indicate the physical dimensions of the
>? ? ? ? ?cylindrical cell. Cells less than one centimeter in height are
>? ? ? ? ?assigned four-digit numbers, where the first two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?diameter in millimeters, while the last two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters. Taller cells are assigned five-
>? ? ? ? ?digit numbers, where the first two digits are the diameter in
>? ? ? ? ?millimeters, followed by the last three digits indicating the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters."
>
>? ? ? ? ?So the size of the battery will give you the info that you need.
>
>? ? ? ? ?--
>? ? ? ? ?Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
>? ? ? ? ?ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
>? ? ? ? ?be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet
>? ? ? ? ?Masters"
>? ? ? ? ?-
>? ? ? ? ?Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by
>? ? ? ? ?lies. --James
>? ? ? ? ?M Dakin
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
Re: HP 54512B (pair) repair
Mike, This is unrelated with the issues I'm having with the -12V rail. When disassembling/reassembling the scope, the EMI Filter?(more specifically, its built-in switch) and the HP arm/button broke apart. I can now either try to find replacements, or just replace?the EMI Filter with a unit having the switch accessible from the back of the scope (this type is relatively easy to find) and disable the actuation of the front button.? Radu.?
On Mon, Mar 3, 2025 at 8:16?AM Michael Bafaro via <m.bafaro= [email protected]> wrote: Radu, ? The pictures you sent appear to be the AC line filter (EMI) and the power switch and perhaps the line fuse.? If one of the supplies is off and the others are working, then the problem is somewhere else.? ? The display is a standard magnetic deflected CRT.? I worked in that group years ago at Motorola. ? Mike Bafaro ? ? Two steps forward, one step back (one and a half?).? While other things have been progressing, the power switch stopped?working once I put?most of the?unit back together. I enclose some pictures, but it's a typical flip flop type where a pin prods and finds two different locations between the?two states ON/OFF. I guess I can either look for a replacement (does anyone have one?), or try to repair it. Repairing something like this hasn't been something?I've had a lot of luck with - if anyone has some good tips, I'll take them happily - and then there's also the way the longitudinal arm (actuating the pressing of?the button on the front panel all the way to the back) is supposed to be handled. It seems to be glued with some hardened resin or something similar. In retrospect, though the SM doesn't mention this, I think the arm should be detached before removing the rear panel and moving it around. It puts too much pressure?and torque on the switch to take this easily and not get damaged.? Thank you for any pointers.? ? On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 3:20?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote: Razvan, Thank you very much, this is very helpful.? I've managed to rig a load - I had a couple of 1ohm/10W Vishay RS10s (bulletproof, in my experience), and it looks like the -12V rail is MIA because of something going on in the PS. If I can confirm?this, this would be great news (as opposed to tracking some failed tantalum decoupler or something else on the main board....).? ? Hi Radu,
I think the PSU in all 545xx series was made by Boschert Inc. and
someone already reverse engineered it. I attached the file.
I hope it helps.
Regards,
Razvan
On 02/03/2025 23:33, Radu Bogdan Dicher via wrote:
> Going back to my -12V rail issue, the SM advises loading the 5.20V rail
> with a 2ohm/25W resistor. The only way I can put something similar
> together with what I have at hand is using these dummy loads I am using
> when repairing audio amplifiers, which are a pair of 8ohm/100W non-
> inductive resistors. By paralleling?them I can load the 5.20V rail with
> a 4ohm resistor.
> What are some thoughts regarding whether this would be a suitable load
> for the PS? I think the PS just needs a low ohmic load of sufficient
> dissipation capacity and it should crank itself up to nominal, but maybe
> there's an aspect I'm overlooking.
> Thank you,
> Radu.
>
> On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 1:52?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <> > <vondicher=[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> wrote:
>
>? ? ?One of the two scopes is completely disassembled - head exploding
>? ? ?emoji - and I have the old battery desoldered after confirming?it's
>? ? ?fully depleted.
>
>? ? ?I enclose pics with what I'm using for replacement. I probably would
>? ? ?have been fine going with a 2032 type, but the 2430 I ended?up
>? ? ?fitting just right (maybe a bit snug), and the pins of the holder
>? ? ?actually match the PCB eyelets. So all is good.
>
>? ? ?I couldn't figure out what exactly was the original battery model,
>? ? ?as it's not legible even after removing the top tab, but its
>? ? ?diameter is a bit over 23mm.
>? ? ?I think this should work OK.
>
>? ? ?Back to the?actual troubleshooting now!
>? ? ?Radu.
>
>? ? ?On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 6:21?PM Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via
>? ? ?<> <roy=[email protected]
>? ? ?<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>? ? ? ? ?On Thursday 27 February 2025 04:09:31 pm Radu Bogdan Dicher via
>? ? ? ? ? <> wrote:
>? ? ? ? ? > One other unfortunate effect of the spot-welding of the top
>? ? ? ? ?tab is that the
>? ? ? ? ? > battery code is not visible. I can probably destroy the
>? ? ? ? ?battery once out,
>? ? ? ? ? > and read the CRxyzt battery code, but would anyone have good
>? ? ? ? ?info offhand
>? ? ? ? ? > on it?
>
>? ? ? ? ?You might find bits of this useful:
>
>? ? ? ? ? <>? ? ? ? ?>
>
>? ? ? ? ?Scroll down to where they discuss coin and button cells:
>
>? ? ? ? ?"IEC designation numbers indicate the physical dimensions of the
>? ? ? ? ?cylindrical cell. Cells less than one centimeter in height are
>? ? ? ? ?assigned four-digit numbers, where the first two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?diameter in millimeters, while the last two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters. Taller cells are assigned five-
>? ? ? ? ?digit numbers, where the first two digits are the diameter in
>? ? ? ? ?millimeters, followed by the last three digits indicating the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters."
>
>? ? ? ? ?So the size of the battery will give you the info that you need.
>
>? ? ? ? ?--
>? ? ? ? ?Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
>? ? ? ? ?ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
>? ? ? ? ?be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet
>? ? ? ? ?Masters"
>? ? ? ? ?-
>? ? ? ? ?Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by
>? ? ? ? ?lies. --James
>? ? ? ? ?M Dakin
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
Re: HP 54512B (pair) repair
Radu, ? The pictures you sent appear to be the AC line filter (EMI) and the power switch and perhaps the line fuse.? If one of the supplies is off and the others are working, then the problem is somewhere else.? ? The display is a standard magnetic deflected CRT.? I worked in that group years ago at Motorola. ? Mike Bafaro ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Radu Bogdan Dicher via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, March 2, 2025 7:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 54512B (pair) repair? Two steps forward, one step back (one and a half?).? While other things have been progressing, the power switch stopped?working once I put?most of the?unit back together. I enclose some pictures, but it's a typical flip flop type where a pin prods and finds two different locations between the?two states ON/OFF. I guess I can either look for a replacement (does anyone have one?), or try to repair it. Repairing something like this hasn't been something?I've had a lot of luck with - if anyone has some good tips, I'll take them happily - and then there's also the way the longitudinal arm (actuating the pressing of?the button on the front panel all the way to the back) is supposed to be handled. It seems to be glued with some hardened resin or something similar. In retrospect, though the SM doesn't mention this, I think the arm should be detached before removing the rear panel and moving it around. It puts too much pressure?and torque on the switch to take this easily and not get damaged.? Thank you for any pointers.? ? On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 3:20?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote: Razvan, Thank you very much, this is very helpful.? I've managed to rig a load - I had a couple of 1ohm/10W Vishay RS10s (bulletproof, in my experience), and it looks like the -12V rail is MIA because of something going on in the PS. If I can confirm?this, this would be great news (as opposed to tracking some failed tantalum decoupler or something else on the main board....).? ? Hi Radu,
I think the PSU in all 545xx series was made by Boschert Inc. and
someone already reverse engineered it. I attached the file.
I hope it helps.
Regards,
Razvan
On 02/03/2025 23:33, Radu Bogdan Dicher via wrote:
> Going back to my -12V rail issue, the SM advises loading the 5.20V rail
> with a 2ohm/25W resistor. The only way I can put something similar
> together with what I have at hand is using these dummy loads I am using
> when repairing audio amplifiers, which are a pair of 8ohm/100W non-
> inductive resistors. By paralleling?them I can load the 5.20V rail with
> a 4ohm resistor.
> What are some thoughts regarding whether this would be a suitable load
> for the PS? I think the PS just needs a low ohmic load of sufficient
> dissipation capacity and it should crank itself up to nominal, but maybe
> there's an aspect I'm overlooking.
> Thank you,
> Radu.
>
> On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 1:52?PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via <> > <vondicher=[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> wrote:
>
>? ? ?One of the two scopes is completely disassembled - head exploding
>? ? ?emoji - and I have the old battery desoldered after confirming?it's
>? ? ?fully depleted.
>
>? ? ?I enclose pics with what I'm using for replacement. I probably would
>? ? ?have been fine going with a 2032 type, but the 2430 I ended?up
>? ? ?fitting just right (maybe a bit snug), and the pins of the holder
>? ? ?actually match the PCB eyelets. So all is good.
>
>? ? ?I couldn't figure out what exactly was the original battery model,
>? ? ?as it's not legible even after removing the top tab, but its
>? ? ?diameter is a bit over 23mm.
>? ? ?I think this should work OK.
>
>? ? ?Back to the?actual troubleshooting now!
>? ? ?Radu.
>
>? ? ?On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 6:21?PM Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via
>? ? ?<> <roy=[email protected]
>? ? ?<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
>
>? ? ? ? ?On Thursday 27 February 2025 04:09:31 pm Radu Bogdan Dicher via
>? ? ? ? ? <> wrote:
>? ? ? ? ? > One other unfortunate effect of the spot-welding of the top
>? ? ? ? ?tab is that the
>? ? ? ? ? > battery code is not visible. I can probably destroy the
>? ? ? ? ?battery once out,
>? ? ? ? ? > and read the CRxyzt battery code, but would anyone have good
>? ? ? ? ?info offhand
>? ? ? ? ? > on it?
>
>? ? ? ? ?You might find bits of this useful:
>
>? ? ? ? ? <>? ? ? ? ?>
>
>? ? ? ? ?Scroll down to where they discuss coin and button cells:
>
>? ? ? ? ?"IEC designation numbers indicate the physical dimensions of the
>? ? ? ? ?cylindrical cell. Cells less than one centimeter in height are
>? ? ? ? ?assigned four-digit numbers, where the first two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?diameter in millimeters, while the last two digits are the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters. Taller cells are assigned five-
>? ? ? ? ?digit numbers, where the first two digits are the diameter in
>? ? ? ? ?millimeters, followed by the last three digits indicating the
>? ? ? ? ?height in tenths of millimeters."
>
>? ? ? ? ?So the size of the battery will give you the info that you need.
>
>? ? ? ? ?--
>? ? ? ? ?Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
>? ? ? ? ?ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
>? ? ? ? ?be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet
>? ? ? ? ?Masters"
>? ? ? ? ?-
>? ? ? ? ?Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by
>? ? ? ? ?lies. --James
>? ? ? ? ?M Dakin
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Bricked E1439C after firmware update on 89600
Following a firmware update which showed no errors, my E1439C no longer shows up in the VXI resource manager.
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Does anyone happen to have an image of the 28F800 flash chip, insight on how to extract the image from the firmware update file, or what I might find connecting to the RS-232 header?
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If the module had previously been updated but not had a sticker applied to indicate it had been, is it possible I should have used the “C” instead of “B” firmware image, leading to an image being loaded for wrong FPGA or CPLD running versions?
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Do CLIPs exist for these?
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A Quick look at data sheets suggests there are two in system programmable CPLDs, and a half dozen or so “small” (by today’s standards) FPGAs. I suspect most of them are loaded by the coldfire processor from the flash, probably with two that are, or in theory could be programmed in circuit.
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The .all firmware update file doesn’t break out the flash image. Its size is around 3/4 of a megabyte and the flash is a 1 megabyte chip. The firmware file sizes are different for different serial number ranges.
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I’d guess that it must contain at least some compression unless they write parts of the image to blocks on the chip, and only contain what needs to be updated.
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Does anyone have insight on how to recover these boards?
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if case you’re going to ask, since I planned to have two channels and the documentation suggests they need ti have matching firmware, I thought it was reasonable to update them. Also, mention about needing a certain version for trigger to be enabled seemed like a good reason (again for multichannel).
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Not that it should matter, but I have a Tek VXI mainframe with an E8491A FireWire interface and plenty of old PC hardware available running vista 32 bit, but could go older if needed.
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if all else fails, are any of the ADC/analog board parts common to something else for which the parts might be useful as donor parts?
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Re: HP Agilent 8753ES VNA repair [Help]
Hello Yves,
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Thank you for all the pictures and all the measurements. I understand the board better with your annotations.?
The frequency synthesizers and PLL is not the easiest part to understand.
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I will compare it with my unit as soon as I am back on it.?
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File /All HP, Agilent and Keysight instruments in folders by part numbers/3000 to 3999/3708 Noise and Interference Test Set/HP 3708A Service_Manual.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Gerald <vk3gm@...>
Description:
HP-3708A Noise & Interference Test Set.
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Re: 3708A Noise and Interference Test Set - Looking for a Service Manual
Hi Jared,
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Just uploaded service manual for 3708A to the 3000 group.
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Regards
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Gerald
VK3GM?
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Re: HP Agilent 8753ES VNA repair [Help]
? I took some measurements of the PLL VCO, you can compare. On the oscilloscope, I put a slight offset for CH1, to be able to better distinguish the two input signals to the phase detector. ?  _._,_._,_
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Dave McGuire
Jared Cabot
MattSNE