Re: HP 606B Frequency Dial
Thank you, Steve.
Your scan I will be able to use as a background in my CAD system to recreate the dial on photo paper.
Thanks,
Mark
Sent from
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Hi Mark
Attached is a scan of the dial from my parts machine, its not perfect as it has black dot marks on it, but it may be a start for you. Its currently in PDF but if you want it scanned in some other format let me know, you may be able to edit the worst marks out.
Cheers? Steve.?
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Re: HP 606B Frequency Dial
Hi Mark
Attached is a scan of the dial from my parts machine, its not perfect as it has black dot marks on it, but it may be a start for you. Its currently in PDF but if you want it scanned in some other format let me know, you may be able to edit the worst marks out.
Cheers? Steve.?
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Re: Dymec 2460A/M3 plugin manual?
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Dymec 2460A/M3 plugin manual?
Any chance someone here has a PDF of the manual for these things? I've found some hard copies on eBay so that might be a last resort, but if I can avoid spending $50AUD just for curiosity that'd be nice
I can't even remember when or where I picked this thing up (I suspect in a bulk lot at some point), it's been on the shelf for years but recently I finally found a power cable for it and gave it a test to find it does in fact work.?
There really doesn't seem to be much info out there about these things, but it looks pretty handy for a handful of tasks
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Hello Group,
?
I am currently restoring a HP 606B. Unfortunately, the dial markings are badly scratched/worn.
Does anyone have, or would care to take, a high-resolution copy of this dial? The dial scale is 7.5¡± in diameter.
?
Thanks for reading,
?
Mark
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Re: Service Notes on HPWiki
It's Official! We now have more than Keysight has on their dedicated Service Notes site () - over 4000!
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This is not an April Fool's joke - I just finished reconciling the last >100 notes and added them to HPWiki.
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I am planning to compare HPWiki <-> Keysight every few months and bring any new notes over. Will be interesting how many they publish on?average.
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And if they get rid of any notes on their site, we will still retain a copy.
?
I am hoping that eventually someone will find and make available a treasure trove of old Service Notes that are no longer available from Keysight.
Best,
Wolfgang
KI7PFX
?
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Re: 8510C - calibration 3.5/sma
Hi Leon,
it depends on how accurately you know the properties of your cal elements.
Do you still have the kit parameters of the manufacturer?
If so, do the standards still obey these parameters, i.e. not worn, clean?
Cables are another issue. Are your test cables stable when you move them, i.e. amplitude stability, phase stability?
As far as I have found out, the 8510C assumes the load standard to be ideal. Thus, the return loss of your load will limit accuracy of measured reflection coefficients near the 50 Ohms point, while short and open will impact high reflection coefficients.
Transmission is yet another story.
Sorry, no simple answers possible.
Best regards,
Tom
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8510C - calibration 3.5/sma
Hello group!
Is there anyone here using the 8510C with a mechanical 3.5 kit?
I have a mechanical 3.5mm 26.5GHz cal kit, but my port cables are 18GHz SMA.
What is the proper calibration sequence for such a setup? And what kind of performance can I expect (Sxx levels)?
Many thanks,
Leon
PS: I've sent the same message to the svna group weeks ago, but the moderator probably denied it, since it never came through, no help there.
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Unfortunately, the gold plating on the many boards in these makes them a target of the gold scrappers.
I am lucky to have one of these generators in excellent condition with the 020 option and use it from time to time.
Peter
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On 4/1/2024 9:41 AM, Gianni Becattini via groups.io wrote:
As usual, any contribution/correction welcome. Thanks
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As usual, any contribution/correction welcome. Thanks
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Re: HP8560a smoke came out
I think the problem is not really correctable given the circumstances of a system that injects power back into the grid. The problem is that losses are against you. When you draw from the grid, your transformer and wiring all drops the voltage down from the voltage generated by the power plant, down to the nominal voltage that you expect to see at your house. But, when you inject power back into the grid, you have to overcome the losses of your transformer, wire, etc. before you can actually feed the grid with your power. That necessarily requires you to pump more voltage into the grid than the nominal power line voltage that you would expect to see in your house. Further, because of other issues in the grid (automatic station voltage regulators...), your solar power can only feed other subscribers on your local transformer. That is too small of a population to allow you to avoid a race to the maximum voltage and beyond. You see, your inverter wants to feed excess power to the grid, so it has to raise its voltage until it starts to take up load from the grid. But, your neighbor's solar inverter wants to do the same thing, so it has to raise its voltage until it starts to take up load from the grid, which causes your inverter to shed load, so it cranks the voltage up... and you are in an arms race. If you set your inverter so that it cannot raise your local (house) voltage until it is high enough to allow you to actually supply power to the grid, you will never supply power to the grid. Your best bet is to use a variac, or other step down auto transformer to drop your workbench voltage down to a safe value. -Chuck Harris On Sun, 31 Mar 2024 19:15:20 -0400 "Harvey White" <madyn@...> wrote: Someplace, somewhere, you might be able to find a voltage regulator.
I suspect that they can be either the saturable reactor kind, or
perhaps an old servo/motor driven autotransformer.? It's possible you
might just want to knock down the 240-250 to 230-240, which might be
more in line to what the equipment expects.
Harvey
On 3/31/2024 7:01 PM, glenn percy via groups.io wrote:
Hi Harvey
*Afraid not.*?? Solar panels are very popular in Australia with at
least 1/3rd of homes having roof top solar panels.? In my street of
about 30 homes more than half have solar.
What this tends to do on sunny days, with so much solar energy in a
street is to push up the nominal 230v mains voltage to sometimes in
excess of 250v.
Glenn
vk3pe
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Re: HP8560a smoke came out
Yes, I'm sure solutions do exist.?? I'm more likely to either find higher rated caps or just leave them out.
Glenn
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Re: HP8560a smoke came out
Someplace, somewhere, you might be able to find a voltage regulator.? I suspect that they can be either the saturable reactor kind, or perhaps an old servo/motor driven autotransformer.? It's possible you might just want to knock down the 240-250 to 230-240, which might be more in line to what the equipment expects.
Harvey
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On 3/31/2024 7:01 PM, glenn percy via groups.io wrote: Hi Harvey
*Afraid not.*?? Solar panels are very popular in Australia with at least 1/3rd of homes having roof top solar panels.? In my street of about 30 homes more than half have solar.
What this tends to do on sunny days, with so much solar energy in a street is to push up the nominal 230v mains voltage to sometimes in excess of 250v.
Glenn
vk3pe
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Re: HP8560a smoke came out
Hi Harvey
Afraid not.?? Solar panels are very popular in Australia with at least 1/3rd of homes having roof top solar panels.? In my street of about 30 homes more than half have solar.
What this tends to do on sunny days, with so much solar energy in a street is to push up the nominal 230v mains voltage to sometimes in excess of 250v.?
Glenn
vk3pe
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Re: Mounting HP Iron in 19" Racks
This is not directly related to the topic, but our local HAM club has at least three full size racks we need to get rid of.? This is the Anne Arundel Amateur Radio club in Davidsonville, MD.
Drop me a note if you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the right person.
Jim Simpson
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Re: Mounting HP Iron in 19" Racks
All of my 19" racks have mounting holes front and back, as usual, but also have mounting holes on the sides as well. I drill pieces of 1-1/2" aluminum angle to fit the mounting holes on the side when the 19" instrument lines up with an appropriate set of holes on the front. Then, you can just slide the instrument onto the full depth angle slides, and you can also use the screw holes in the front panel for added security. The aluminum angles easily handle a couple of hundred pounds each pair. The heaviest thing I have mounted that way is a FLUKE linear amplifier, 5205A. It weighs a cool 120lbs. -Chuck Harris On Sat, 30 Mar 2024 17:28:24 -0400 "Peter Gottlieb" <hpnpilot@...> wrote: I use equipment shelves that only mount from the front, but the one
you show is better mechanically.? Where do you get them?? Do you have
a part number?
Pter
On 3/30/2024 5:23 PM, Dave Miller wrote:
I have run out of floor and bench space and it's time start filling
up the racks I have stored away. :-(
Unfortunately most of the equipment does not have mounting ears.
Last time I looked at them they are hard to find and very expensive.
What's everyone thoughts about using 4 post ventilated shelves like
this?
They are rated 120 kg a shelf.
I can source them locally cheaper and faster than a set out
mounting ears on Fleabay with shipping. And I can adjust the height
instead of getting multiple sizes of ears.
It's also easier to wrestle something on a shelf than mount it in a
rack with screws. Or at least that is my limited experience.
And If I want put another piece in rack it seems easier.
What do the experts have to say?
Thanks
Dave
VE7HR
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Re: Mounting HP Iron in 19" Racks
Angles from old bed frames. Brilliant! I need some and never thought of those and they're indeed ubiquitous!
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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I used to do this with scrounged angle iron from bed frames people would throw
out on trash day.? Some are pretty wide and I can attest to the wood strip
method to keep things centered.? A sawzall makes quick work of cutting them.
Peter
On 3/30/2024 7:10 PM, Ed Breya via groups.io wrote:
I have a bunch of fairly heavy aluminum 90 degree angle-iron pieces scrounged
up long ago. They are about 2" by 3/16" flats by 30" long, and easy to drill
holes anywhere and attach with the usual 10-32 screws into the side members of
almost any rack. Usually it's enough to just support the side rails of the
gear firmly, from front to back. I put the heaviest items on the rails, and
stack lighter gear on them, so only a few big items are actually mounted, and
serve as shelves for the rest. It's easier to reconfigure too, unless you need
to relocate the big stuff.
So, you don't really need a shelf pan, but be sure the gear can't move too far
side to side and fall through. The wide enough angle stock mostly assures
this. I drop in wooden shims on the sides if there's any doubt. Also be sure
the rack is stout enough to not bow open - sometimes you need cross pieces
here and there to hold the sides together
Ed
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Re: Mounting HP Iron in 19" Racks
I used to do this with scrounged angle iron from bed frames people would throw out on trash day.? Some are pretty wide and I can attest to the wood strip method to keep things centered.? A sawzall makes quick work of cutting them.
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 3/30/2024 7:10 PM, Ed Breya via groups.io wrote: I have a bunch of fairly heavy aluminum 90 degree angle-iron pieces scrounged up long ago. They are about 2" by 3/16" flats by 30" long, and easy to drill holes anywhere and attach with the usual 10-32 screws into the side members of almost any rack. Usually it's enough to just support the side rails of the gear firmly, from front to back. I put the heaviest items on the rails, and stack lighter gear on them, so only a few big items are actually mounted, and serve as shelves for the rest. It's easier to reconfigure too, unless you need to relocate the big stuff.
So, you don't really need a shelf pan, but be sure the gear can't move too far side to side and fall through. The wide enough angle stock mostly assures this. I drop in wooden shims on the sides if there's any doubt. Also be sure the rack is stout enough to not bow open - sometimes you need cross pieces here and there to hold the sides together
Ed
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Re: HP-1421A Q109 Voltages
I got a chance to test the circuit just a bit.? I placed a 47k resistor between the base of Q109 and ground.? That caused the lamp to illuminate so the transistor is still good.? I just need to determine why the base voltage is being held at or below the emitter voltage.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
That's what I kept thinking - especially since everything else that's connected to the base is negative.? Could that be a typo? Barry - N4BUQ -8.8V seems much more plausible, with the emitter -9.4V Hugh Gilbert
On Fri, Mar 29, 2024 at 4:02?PM n4buq < n4buq@...> wrote: Chuck,
Thank you so much for that.? I couldn't tell if that was a + or a - in front of the base voltage but that shows it clearly as +.
Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
> From: "ChuckA" <chuck@...>
> To: "HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 29, 2024 2:38:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP-1421A Q109 Voltages
> Here's a clean scan of the section you are looking at.
>
> ChuckA
>
> On 3/29/2024 3:16 PM, n4buq wrote:
>> Does anyone have a readable schematic for the A101 board in a 1421A?? I have a
>> paper manual on order but until that arrives, I would appreciate finding out
>> the voltages shown for Q109 (Page 5-16, Figure 5-9).? From what I can tell, the
>> online scan appears to show:
>>
>> C: +48V
>> B: -8.8V
>> E: -9.4V
>>
>> The value for B is particularly blurry but would like to know for sure what all
>> of those are.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Barry - N4BUQ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> See Early TV at:
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Mounting HP Iron in 19" Racks
The cantilever shelves work great. Especially for the smaller stuff, like putting two 1/2 width units together.
I have used a lot of Navepoint stuff in the past. This is an option that I like for 3U-4U type boxes.?
They also sell the cantilever style shelves and the sturdier 4-post type shelves (sliding and static styles). Of course, looks like their prices are up since I bought from them last. Always worthwhile to keep an eye on fleabay for cheap lots.
-Michael Bierlein
On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 19:51 Dave Daniel < kc0wjn@...> wrote: I've been using these (from Amazon) for years. They work pretty well:
AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 2U Universal Rack Shelf, 16" Deep, for 19¡± equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 100lbs Capacity.?
DaveD On Mar 30, 2024, at 17:23, Dave Miller <ve7hr@...> wrote:
?I have run out of floor and bench space and it's time start filling up the racks I have stored away. :-( Unfortunately most of the equipment does not have mounting ears. Last time I looked at them they are hard to find and very expensive. What's everyone thoughts about using 4 post ventilated shelves like this? <dummyfile.0.part> They are rated 120 kg a shelf. I can source them locally cheaper and faster than a set out mounting ears on Fleabay with shipping. And I can adjust the height instead of getting multiple sizes of ears. It's also easier to wrestle something on a shelf than mount it in a rack with screws. Or at least that is my limited experience. And If I want put another piece in rack it seems easier. What do the experts have to say? Thanks Dave? VE7HR
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