HP8563E A6 powers supply-What is the maximum current per voltage rail
Hi,
I am trying to test my HP8563E A6 power supply with a Tenma 72-13210 DC electronic load. Could anyone tell me what is the MAXIMUM current that the power supply SHOULD be able to supply per voltage rail (+15v,-15v,+5v,-5v,+28v,-12.6v). So far the +15v rail holds a stable voltage up to 4 amps but the -15v rail's voltage starts to drop at 3.2 amps. Where can I find out what the maximum currents should be? Thanks.
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Re: HP 8510 C with HP 8511B
You can find Test sets schematics at artekmanuals, inside Hewlett Packard 8510A Operating, Service-V5 file, which contains schematics for testsets (but only for "A" versions of 8511-8515). Also, you can download 8517 service manual from Keysight (without schematics, but with part list and block diagrams)
As I see, control board for 8511 and 8517 is a same, but you need 08513-60011 or 08517-60001 Attenuator|switch driver (not shure, which one).
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Re: HP 8510 C with HP 8511B
Thanks for the idea . I was thinking that the HP8511B is a reduced set of HP8517 but the control board are the same or at least I have to populate them. Unluckily I was not able to find schematics or board level description . Someone have info about , where ? Ciao IW1EPY Gianni ? Da: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Per conto di Mark Kahrs
Inviato: venerdì 14 gennaio 2022 20:49
A: [email protected]
Oggetto: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 8510 C with HP 8511B ? I am not sure what you are asking.? As you know, the 8510 system uses a separate HPIB bus to control the interfaces on the bus including the test sets. If you want to do the automatic forward and reverse testing as in an 8517, you will have to understand the HPIB commands that control the splitter/switch module. You could do something such as using the 8510 to control a 11713 switch driver and treat the forward and reverse as separate test sets - just an idea. ? i have in line a system with HP8511B i intend to add dir coupler in order to perform return loss .
my goal is to become to a system like 8517 .
i have 2 Wiltron dir coupler , by now i have used 1 with a power splitter , to use the two i need the switch power splitter that is present in HP8517..
If i find this switch power splitter how to connect in in order to have the auto switch as 8517 ?
where i can find docs if the HW involved in this switch power splitter that is present inside the 8517.
Ciao IW1EPY
Gianni
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What would happen if I let the battery in my HP 54622D oscilloscope run down?
I know I need to not let the battery in my HP 3478A DMM run down so o don’t lose calibration, but it just came to my attention that the HP 54622D also has a backup battery. What is lost if that battery runs down?
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Re: hp 8601A Generator/Sweeper card needed
The card is part of the option 7 where the 8601A can be used as a tracking generator. It is an amplifier for the incoming LO from an external 8553-L. I've included the schematic for it.
Ideally, the card and assembly could be added to an 8601A without option 007. However, I am still in need of a 8601AOPT007 for my 141S/8552A/8553-L setup.
Christopher
‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐
On Thursday, January 13th, 2022 at 21:02, Thomas S. Knutsen <la3pna@...> wrote:
If you give a explanation of what it is, and not just the product number, then there is a greater chance that people are able to help you.
Thomas.
tor. 13. jan. 2022 kl. 20:22 skrev Christopher Tucker via <cartheur= [email protected]>: All,
Would anyone have or know where I could obtain card and assembly 08601-6046?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
--
With Best regards, Thomas S. Knutsen.
Please avoid sending me Word or PowerPoint attachments.
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I rebuilt a repulsion-start motor from circa 1910 a few months ago, and had it fail after about 7 starts when I was testing it.? There was no data plate on the unit, and I had never worked on one of them before.? The cord was original (cloth-wrapped), and was so bad I just cut it off right away and replaced it with the first round type I pulled out of the cord bucket without thinking about it.? When the motor failed to start, I thought a winding had failed, so I shelved the motor.? About a week later, I was thinking about, and realized that the leads coming out of the motor were heavy, and the cord I had used was kind of light...? ? ? ? ? ? Yup, upon dissection, the junction between the wire and one of the plug prongs had melted.? I didn't think the motor would draw so much power unloaded, but the huge motor leads should have been a warning!?
-Dave
On Saturday, January 15, 2022, 02:28:22 AM PST, freshndaire <fanman@...> wrote:
Manufacturers generally provide an installation sheet for their products, but many wiring devices don't come with the sheet.? I use Hubbell a lot here in the US and have had excellent service from them.? I have seen a near disaster with a 40A range plug and socket that were melted and partly burnt but amazingly didn't catch fire even with 4" of insulation melted on one of the wires outside of the receptacle box in the wall.? That receptacle may well not have been a Hubbell, I could not read any markings on the toasted remains.? You don't get any closer to disaster than that one, but good materials selection kept it from burning.? It failed because the cord was a bit too short for the way the range was positioned and the plug worked its way out until it started arcing.
? As for torque, One of the common Hubbell PD2437 15A straight prong "standard" US plugs (lots of people call them cord caps) is spec'd at 12 inch-pounds of torque in the installation document.? NFPA requires they be torqued to spec.? I have found that many electricians and DIY types don't bother and tend to over-tighten them to the point of damaging the threads at times.? Be sure to consult the right data sheet for the connector type, they of course vary.? I recently saw some spring lock devices in Hubbells twist-lock? line that use a wedge type device to secure the conductors, and since there is no screw they don't need to be torqued and comply with NFPA rules.? Those would be a lot faster to install but I have always shied away from "stab backs".? There wasn't enough contact area to make me confident in the connection's long-term integrity.? Dirt and oxidation happen.? These new spring lock ones look to be different enough to investigate in the future.
? The standard 15A and 20A 120Vac home electrical circuits in the US are a bit disconcerting.? Not only do we not use fused plugs on our power cords, you can plug a 15A style plug into a 20A receptacle if it is the type with a T-shaped straight and twisted prong slot.. It would be very easy to grossly overload an 18AWG cord for example.
? The craziest thing I ever did was lay a nice metal cased Wiremold power strip on my welding table to run a fan.? I didn't give it a second thought.? While welding a large item at about 125Amps I accidentally knocked the magnetic ground clamp loose from the workbench.? The ground wire in the cord to the power strip instantly burned a spiral through the jacket of the 15' power cord on the power strip.? That's one I won't forget.
Clay Scott
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This is why the british idea ofhaving a fuse in the plug is good.? Even if the spur was fused for 16A at the board it may not blow for a small oveload. With the fuse clipped directy to the pin any contact heating also heats the fuse, effectively lowering it's fusing point. and rviding a bit of additional protection against small overloads. It's not desigind to do this but it does.
Robert G8RPI
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Re: HP active probe power connector availability?
And just to make things more complicated, it appears that YHP assigned 1252-4294 to the same (or similar) part. You’ll find this number for the probe power connector in HP/Agilent devices developed in Japan, such as the 4296A/B and E5100A/B.?
Keysight doesn’t even have a photo of this one.?
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On Jan 14, 2022, at 18:45, Chris B <beltoid97@...> wrote:
?Just to add a misc piece of info on these connectors.
Keysight parts search has a nice photo of the receptacle:
But as expected there's nothing identifiable on there. And despite at least one non-HP mfg using apparently the same type of connector:
I wasn't able to follow that lead, probably as others have tried before me.
I couldn't wait to order some of those Binder connectors, so I "made" some using a hacked up female DB9 (DE9) connector. Pin spacing isn't quite right for the receptacle and required a bit of drilling to allow the socket terminals to move closer. That, and some filing to "match" the flattened circle shape of the probe connector.
A lot of finagling; overall I wouldn't recommend it and would not do again. End result:
A 3d printer would've made things easier - just make a housing that takes those same DB* socket terminals.
If at least the active probe I built for this worked properly...
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? Has it ever worked or did it stop working?? If you have never seen it work check the straps on the back carefully.? Check the current control pots.? I've seen broken solder joints on the terminal strip on the back as well.? Take a look inside for anything burnt, leaking electrolyte, etc. then start looking at voltages/biases.? With voltage and no current it could be pretty easy to narrow it down but not necessarily.? Check the .1 Ohm 40 Watt resistor for the metering & constant current circuits.? Troubleshooting can be a bit tricky because the signals feed back from the output to the SCR drives, you have voltage and current control circuits that interact (cross over) and things like blown traces can confuse things until you figure out exactly what works and what doesn't.? I've had Zeners fail in the reference circuit a couple of times.? A scope is really useful when checking the SCR drives but be careful since they are mains connected.? Be very careful what you hook your ground to.? There is a lot of circuitry that interacts so it can be frustrating looking for what is keeping it from working.
? I like the old Harrison power supplies.? I always liked working on power stuff, until I got to the 10s of kW high voltage stuff, that got too nerve wracking.
? I ran across a pretty decent manual scan for the HP 6433 from the library of congress (http://lcweb2.loc.gov ? master ? mbrs ? manuals)?
It was the 3rd item on a Google search for HP 6433.? Here's the nasty google link:?
There are probably other good ones out there as well.? Good luck!
Clay Scott
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Why inspecting a bargain is no bad idea...
I recently picked up an old 6038A Power supply. It worked but the fan was worn and had to be replaced. (Sleeve bearings). The ambition was to also replace any RIFA capacitor found. While the fan was easily replaced, replacing the capacitors would have been a major dismanteling process. I gave up. The smoke will ventually be there... But I found some other things that rised my eyebrows. The Power Mesh board had one of the two FET's at the "fan end" partially unsoldered. Also one of the components was sticking up... Ulf Kylenfall - SM6GXV 
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Manufacturers generally provide an installation sheet for their products, but many wiring devices don't come with the sheet.? I use Hubbell a lot here in the US and have had excellent service from them.? I have seen a near disaster with a 40A range plug and socket that were melted and partly burnt but amazingly didn't catch fire even with 4" of insulation melted on one of the wires outside of the receptacle box in the wall.? That receptacle may well not have been a Hubbell, I could not read any markings on the toasted remains.? You don't get any closer to disaster than that one, but good materials selection kept it from burning.? It failed because the cord was a bit too short for the way the range was positioned and the plug worked its way out until it started arcing.
? As for torque, One of the common Hubbell PD2437 15A straight prong "standard" US plugs (lots of people call them cord caps) is spec'd at 12 inch-pounds of torque in the installation document.? NFPA requires they be torqued to spec.? I have found that many electricians and DIY types don't bother and tend to over-tighten them to the point of damaging the threads at times.? Be sure to consult the right data sheet for the connector type, they of course vary.? I recently saw some spring lock devices in Hubbells twist-lock? line that use a wedge type device to secure the conductors, and since there is no screw they don't need to be torqued and comply with NFPA rules.? Those would be a lot faster to install but I have always shied away from "stab backs".? There wasn't enough contact area to make me confident in the connection's long-term integrity.? Dirt and oxidation happen.? These new spring lock ones look to be different enough to investigate in the future.
? The standard 15A and 20A 120Vac home electrical circuits in the US are a bit disconcerting.? Not only do we not use fused plugs on our power cords, you can plug a 15A style plug into a 20A receptacle if it is the type with a T-shaped straight and twisted prong slot.. It would be very easy to grossly overload an 18AWG cord for example.
? The craziest thing I ever did was lay a nice metal cased Wiremold power strip on my welding table to run a fan.? I didn't give it a second thought.? While welding a large item at about 125Amps I accidentally knocked the magnetic ground clamp loose from the workbench.? The ground wire in the cord to the power strip instantly burned a spiral through the jacket of the 15' power cord on the power strip.? That's one I won't forget.
Clay Scott
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Re: 204B problem in the 10k range
Hi Martin,
did you check the usual suspects (electrolytic capacitors) already? Also, if I understand correctly, the power supply is not original. Did you check its output voltage behavior when tuning through the frequency ranges? There might be an unintended interaction between the PS and the oscillator, causing this behavior.
Regards
Chris
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I got it finally.? Had a 100k resistor d'ho.? Swapped it out for a 10k and it lit the Led.
Funny thing real old school device you have to sort the darn thing to set the max current.
Glad it is only 36v
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Make sure the wire hasn't overheated, first. If it has, the lug needs to be replaced, and the damaged end of the wire trimmed off.
Just tighten the screw a bit if its loose.
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Just tighten the screw a bit if its loose.
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Was it working before and only now started to exhibit a problem?
Have checked the current limit settings/controls?
Have you downloaded the manual? Sent from my iThing; please forgive the typos and brevity
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Show quoted text
On Jan 14, 2022, at 16:27, byterock@... wrote:
?Anyone have experience with one of these
I cant seem to get any amperage out of mine.
Get volts fine, but not enough amps to light an LED?
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Reneé, thank you for the input from someone who has “been there.”
-- Jeremy Nichols
6.
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a lot of times the
spec is listed on the label of breaker, sometimes in the panel
for the lugs like for mains entrance. I have used standard
torque wrenchs w/ proper driver.
Here in the USA one more mfg of bad breakers Zinsco ( never
trips) from the late 1940's thru at least the 1960s , I have
several that I took to work put on the test rack 15A and 20A
that tripped between 30 and 67A. !!!!? talk about unsafe and
these were on 14 and 12Ga wire feeding the house....If they are
not on the replace on sight list they should be....I was lucky
to have testing capabilities.
I rewired my house using a pair of NEW 100A breakers ( back in
1992) for mains, they test 150A...btw they hold at 150A for 1
hour plus, trip at 155A and 160 in 50 sec. ( at least they
trip!) I did go to a sub panel ( proper size both wire and panel
for 150A) for distribution using Siemans? breakers all tested
spot on.
I generally re-torque/check everything every 15yrs...they do get
loose!
搁别苍é别
On 1/14/22 3:38 PM, cheater cheater
wrote:
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Show quoted text
I had no idea about checking the torque on terminals. How do you check
that? Just a VDE torque screwdriver?
Any clue what the torque specifications are in Europe or Germany on
breaker panels, wall outlets, and Schuko plug contacts?
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 5:26 PM Jeremy Nichols <jn6wfo@...> wrote:
Tightening connections: Especially in the case of aluminum wiring, which was popular for a few years, and no doubt still exists here and there.
Jeremy
N6WFO
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 6:33 AM paulswed <paulswedb@...> wrote:
Its good to understand outlet ratings along with circuits and breakers. Massively loaded test benches tend to suck lots of power.
I am careful with power loads and always have been.
But also discovered heavy house loads like air conditioning can heat breakers and connections over many years. Need to occasionally retighten the power leads going into breakers and such for very large equipment.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
--
Jeremy Nichols
6.
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Re: HP active probe power connector availability?
Just to add a misc piece of info on these connectors.
Keysight parts search has a nice photo of the receptacle:
But as expected there's nothing identifiable on there. And despite at least one non-HP mfg using apparently the same type of connector:
I wasn't able to follow that lead, probably as others have tried before me.
I couldn't wait to order some of those Binder connectors, so I "made" some using a hacked up female DB9 (DE9) connector. Pin spacing isn't quite right for the receptacle and required a bit of drilling to allow the socket terminals to move closer. That, and some filing to "match" the flattened circle shape of the probe connector.
A lot of finagling; overall I wouldn't recommend it and would not do again. End result:
A 3d printer would've made things easier - just make a housing that takes those same DB* socket terminals.
If at least the active probe I built for this worked properly...
|
Anyone have experience with one of these
I cant seem to get any amperage out of mine.
Get volts fine, but not enough amps to light an LED?
|
Steve Holland
Christopher Tucker
Michael A. Terrell
Jeremy Nichols