OT (just a bit) - Centralab Steatite Switches
I'm in search of some steatite switch wafers for a broken switch and in my searches, I have found many instance where the Centralab wafer model number has a one to three digit designator (e.g. D, DD, PA, PS, PSY, etc.) yet I have not found anything that describes what those designators indicate. Does anyone know about those?
Specifically, I'm looking for some 1-POL, 11-POS non-shortingwafers (where the wiper and the other contacts are all on the same side of the wafer). Additionally, I need them to have the wider hole spacing (where there's a slight elongation of the wafer 180-deg apart to accomodate a wider set of holes).
I think I can find some that will work but I still wonder what those designations are all about.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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We had USB on Win95.
It was on Win95 OSR2. You need that OSR2 patch to make it work. The hardware was in place on mobo's, but support (and compatible devices) were delayed.
There were very little devices that supported it so it didn't become popular until Win98 was out. By then I had printers, scanners, and even wireless (not 802.11 because it wasn't ratified yet). For the record, the initial wireless frequency hopper systems were great!
Keith
On September 7, 2020 11:09:10 AM "Tam Hanna" <tamhan@...> wrote:
Hello,
please beat me if I am wrong, but I can remember Win98SE had some kind?
of USB stack.
Tam
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at https://www.instagram.com/tam.hanna/
On 2020. 09. 07. 16:29, bostonman73@... wrote:
Since USB wasn't out in 98, I assume a board was replaced or something?
got installed.?
|
Re: OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
I am using ONSHAPE, very complete and easy to learn 3d CAD, run from browser, cloud based, full functionality for free subscriber, the only limit is to make the design public.
With this software i designed some complicated part, work really well, of course, if you need to keep your design private, this is not the right tool (assuming that 1500$ per user per year for the professional license is too much for normal purpose)
Francesco
|
Hello,
please beat me if I am wrong, but I can remember Win98SE had some kind of USB stack.
Tam
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2020. 09. 07. 16:29, bostonman73@... wrote: Since USB wasn't out in 98, I assume a board was replaced or something got installed.
|
Re: OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
I've just started using a 3D printer this year, I've been using 2D
CAD for my day job for many decades but apart from a brief attempt
at Solidworks which was a) expensive and b) a nightmare for
backwards compatibility when they update it, I haven't used 3D 'in
anger' as it were.
So I've been using FreeCAD for 3D work and after a few false starts
(while learning it's quirks) I have found it quite usable for the
purpose. As you may guess from the name...it's free too!
Adrian
On 07/09/2020 15:17, victor.silva via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This is off topic but the end result will be for HP products so
please bear with me.
I am looking for recommendation on 3D modeling software
(preferably freeware) and a company that I can then send the 3D
model to?
make a battery holder clamshells.? I propose to make half
clamshell pieces that would then make a complete?
battery holder by using 2 pieces that would fit together.
Thank you,
Victor
|
I saw the eBay listing when I first looked into this problem; and appreciate the link.
It's not necessarily buying a bad chip, it's the trouble of replacing them only to find they are defective or some knock off that doesn't work correctly.
In any case, I was hoping someone had a reputable source that they could point me to. If I could calibrate the two broken channels, I don't see a reason to need 50ohms because I can just use a 50ohm coax terminator if need be.
As for a backup OS CD, I'll look into it, but had planned to image the hard drive. My fear is: keeping Win98 (or even if I could get XP) would eventually eliminate connecting a printer to it or even save files to a USB stick.
I don't know what modifications have been done to this scope, but it has USBs, and was told a SSD was installed.
Since USB wasn't out in 98, I assume a board was replaced or something got installed.
|
Re: OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
The "best" CAD tool depends on how you think and how you express the design.
I like OpenSCAD (many implementations including in-browser). It is effectively a programming language where you add and subtract cubes spheres rods cones etc, where the dimensions are parameterised. If you structure the way the dimensions are created, you can change dimensions and other things change accordingly. There are many libraries available; I've used ones for characters and screwthreads.
Others tools are declarative in that they allow you to state constraints, and they then work out how to satisfy the constraints. I haven't used them.
Others are "organic", and allow you to pinch, and pull and push wire meshes; I'm never going to use those.
The next choice is material. There is a stunningly wide range available including gold, paper, ceramic, brass, nylon, resin, other plastics.
Shapeways has a wide range of? materials and a reasonable user interface, and it will tell you the cost and do a DRC for all its materials. It is not the cheapest.
There are many many other suppliers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 07/09/20 15:17, victor.silva via groups.io wrote: This is off topic but the end result will be for HP products so please bear with me.
I am looking for recommendation on 3D modeling software (preferably freeware) and a company that I can then send the 3D model to
make a battery holder clamshells.? I propose to make half clamshell pieces that would then make a complete
battery holder by using 2 pieces that would fit together.
|
Re: OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
I cannot help with the printing company, but if you can program
and care to do so; I'd recommend OpenSCAD.
The advantages are that the program can be driven by parameters:?
ex, you need a box, so specify the size and wall thickness as
variables.? You need it bigger?? Change the variable values.? If
you did the programming properly, everything scales as needed.
With a conventional cad program, you're constantly dragging
things around and if lucky, you can put the holes where you need
them.
I use it for a number of things.? It's not a universal solution,
but it does well for geometric shapes.
Harvey
On 9/7/2020 10:17 AM, victor.silva via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This is off topic but the end result will be for HP products so
please bear with me.
I am looking for recommendation on 3D modeling software
(preferably freeware) and a company that I can then send the 3D
model to?
make a battery holder clamshells.? I propose to make half
clamshell pieces that would then make a complete?
battery holder by using 2 pieces that would fit together.
Thank you,
Victor
|
Re: OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
Hello,
ad a) openSCAD, if it is a mechanical part and not intended to
look good.
ad b) if you need ONE, and the part is small, m yass works, aka
my company, is your source.
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 07.09.20 16:17, victor.silva via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This is off topic but the end result will be for HP products so
please bear with me.
I am looking for recommendation on 3D modeling software
(preferably freeware) and a company that I can then send the 3D
model to?
make a battery holder clamshells.? I propose to make half
clamshell pieces that would then make a complete?
battery holder by using 2 pieces that would fit together.
Thank you,
Victor
|
OT: Looking for recommendations on 3D modeling software
This is off topic but the end result will be for HP products so please bear with me.
I am looking for recommendation on 3D modeling software (preferably freeware) and a company that I can then send the 3D model to?
make a battery holder clamshells.? I propose to make half clamshell pieces that would then make a complete?
battery holder by using 2 pieces that would fit together.
Thank you,
Victor
|
Re: looking for a few knobs
If you have any questions about 3D printers, feel free to contact
me, also offlist!
We are quite happy with our RenkForce RF100v2 system after adding
a part cooler and an enclosure. Enclosures are a feature where the
printer house generally like to charge a lot of money, but you can
build one easily from a LACK table =>
I am quite happy with my design, albeit I regret not also making
the back openable to access the filament supply. Not having the
printer subject to winding, and being able to heat up its den, has
made my life easier and prints more constant. I think about adding
a little thermo heater to heat the build chamber up faster.
Another important advice: heated beds are a bad bet. Get a Pritt
gluestick...
Tam
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 07.09.20 04:40, Dave McGuire wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On
9/6/20 8:19 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I don't have a
printer yet, but I would appreciate the files for when I do get
one.
? I will send them off-list.
|
Well said and I agree wholeheartedly.
|
Re: looking for a few knobs
Sorry. I clicked on 'reply to sender', not to the group. Another reply to the thread came back to me, rather than the person I replied to.
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 8:21 AM Michael A. Terrell via <terrell.michael.a= [email protected]> wrote:
I received the files for the Bezels. Thanks. Most of this is work that would have needed to be done, and with the way things are right now, he may lose the house so he isn't far from being ruined. He's had a series of jobs. He seems to keep getting hired not long before a company or location closes. The big problem is that the previous owner was too damned cheap to do anything right. All she did was bitch about all the money that her dead husband had spent to have the home remodeled. He worked for the school board, and it's obvious that some of what was used came out of schools when repairs were made. Two breaker boxes have burnt, in the last 21 years. One would have burnt the place down, if I hadn't heard the noise as the main breaker burnt off of the buss bars. The other was on a pole, in the yard, but it burnt during the night, and killed everything but the shop building. My main complaint is the difficulty of doing the work with one good hand. Old age isn't for sissies!
On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 10:40 PM Dave McGuire < mcguire@...> wrote: On 9/6/20 8:19 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> I don't have a printer yet, but I would appreciate the files for when I
> do get one.
? ?I will send them off-list.
> I own the house. The damage was caused by a tree that a neighbor won't
> trim, or remove. The drop was installed in 1964. I was already planning
> to replace all the old wiring, but not all at once. My old Dell optiplex
> 780 and Insignia monitor were still working with the line at 67 volts.
> Duke Energy cancelled the first service? call, because their idiot
> 'Smart Meter' reported that my service was working. I had to threaten to
> call the Florida PUCO before they sent out a crew. The lead tech rolled
> his eyes when I told him the neural was open. Then he saw the break,
> arching. Tired old triplex that had pulled loose from the street pole
> and was drooping below six feet. I should have called OSHA, because it
> was over a neighbor's yard where kids were playing. I thought Florida
> power, and then Progress Energy were bad, but Duke is even worse. I am
> going to install underground service, but I would like to have waited
> until they do a promised rebuild. The entire subdivision was wired over
> 50 years ago and it was not designed for electric stoves and air
> conditioning. It needs to be upgraded to at least four times the current
> capacity. It was designed for 60A service, and for snowbirds second
> homes. I have a 1200 square foot building for my workshop. It was
> already upgraded to a 100A breaker box but I am currently unable to work
> there.
? ?Wow.? That is a substantial lawsuit waiting to happen.? That neighbor
needs to be *ruined*.
? ? ? ? ? ? ?-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
|
Re: looking for a few knobs
I received the files for the Bezels. Thanks. Most of this is work that would have needed to be done, and with the way things are right now, he may lose the house so he isn't far from being ruined. He's had a series of jobs. He seems to keep getting hired not long before a company or location closes. The big problem is that the previous owner was too damned cheap to do anything right. All she did was bitch about all the money that her dead husband had spent to have the home remodeled. He worked for the school board, and it's obvious that some of what was used came out of schools when repairs were made. Two breaker boxes have burnt, in the last 21 years. One would have burnt the place down, if I hadn't heard the noise as the main breaker burnt off of the buss bars. The other was on a pole, in the yard, but it burnt during the night, and killed everything but the shop building. My main complaint is the difficulty of doing the work with one good hand. Old age isn't for sissies!
On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 10:40 PM Dave McGuire < mcguire@...> wrote: On 9/6/20 8:19 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> I don't have a printer yet, but I would appreciate the files for when I
> do get one.
? ?I will send them off-list.
> I own the house. The damage was caused by a tree that a neighbor won't
> trim, or remove. The drop was installed in 1964. I was already planning
> to replace all the old wiring, but not all at once. My old Dell optiplex
> 780 and Insignia monitor were still working with the line at 67 volts.
> Duke Energy cancelled the first service? call, because their idiot
> 'Smart Meter' reported that my service was working. I had to threaten to
> call the Florida PUCO before they sent out a crew. The lead tech rolled
> his eyes when I told him the neural was open. Then he saw the break,
> arching. Tired old triplex that had pulled loose from the street pole
> and was drooping below six feet. I should have called OSHA, because it
> was over a neighbor's yard where kids were playing. I thought Florida
> power, and then Progress Energy were bad, but Duke is even worse. I am
> going to install underground service, but I would like to have waited
> until they do a promised rebuild. The entire subdivision was wired over
> 50 years ago and it was not designed for electric stoves and air
> conditioning. It needs to be upgraded to at least four times the current
> capacity. It was designed for 60A service, and for snowbirds second
> homes. I have a 1200 square foot building for my workshop. It was
> already upgraded to a 100A breaker box but I am currently unable to work
> there.
? ?Wow.? That is a substantial lawsuit waiting to happen.? That neighbor
needs to be *ruined*.
? ? ? ? ? ? ?-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
|
Re: HP 1817A TDR sampling head
Hello Craig,
???? Glad to find a guy who knows about 1817A sampler. This state
of the art equipment (for then time it was marketed) has fallen in
the museum class but works perfectly when the rather fragile
sampler diodes are in good condition. Your suggestion to use a
beam lead microwave schottky diode is one of the solutions I
envisaged to fix my 1817's. I also tried some very tiny microwave
SMD diodes (0.3 x 0.6 mm), which are supposed to be very fast (SMS
7621-060 from Skyworks).? If I have the binocular microscope, I
don't unfortunately possess the micro tweezers (clamps) necessary
to manipulate the diodes and put them at the right place on the
holder, and my attemps to getb them in place? and to fix them with
soldering paste have failed up to now. May be beam lead diodes
would be easier to handle !
??? Another solution I'll try will be to machine an new holder,
fitting in place of the original one, and using an old DO34 housed
Germanium point diode, which also presents very small
capacitance and offset voltage. It is slightly bigger than the
genuine one, but that seems workable. I recall you that the
assembly is composed of the diode, a series 2.2 K resistor, and a
2 pf capacitor towards 7mm line body. The new part would fit, but
electrical performances (rise time, overshoot) might be degraded !
??? Thank You anyway to help me renewing one of the most advanced
equipment ever marketed by former HP firm. (joined two drawings of
one of the sampling diode part - there are 2 opposed polarity
diodes ).
???? Jean-claude
?On 07/09/2020 09:19, Craig Sawyers
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I
was thinking in terms of a beam lead microwave diode ¨C but
held back from suggesting it given the difficulty in
handling, mounting and soldering/conductive epoxy/lead
bonding such physically tiny devices. But given the
bandwidth of the 1817A sampler, that would seem to be the
only easily procurable (and cheap!) part family. And they
have the correct sort of capacitance (0.2pF) and inductance
(<250pH) needed. Just don¡¯t sneeze when handling them ¨C
and a good stereo microscope is essential.
?
Craig
?
?
The 1817A sampler contains the
incredible Grove sampler (see the US Patent, US
3,278,763 for the associated patentese, also see the
Proc. IEEE paper by Grove for the theory of operation
and detailed analysis).? IMHO, the Grove sampler was the
last hurrah for non-monolithic microwave sampler
construction.? Since this sampler was found in many HP
instruments of the era, you can find repair instructions
in the 1430C manual (and others).? Basically, the diode
is a pill that is shimmed into contact with the
stripline.? To replace this with a modern diode, you're
going to have to fabricate a matching mechanical
contrivance.? I suggest (without having done this), that
you might be able to "print" a suitable diode holder and
then insert a replacement diode (it would be tempting to
use a beam-lead diode or find a suitable pill diode).
For extra homework, I suggest
replicating Grove's analysis in the Proceedings.
?
Hello,
???? I'm trying to repair several old 1817A sampling
heads. They all show the same failure : the sampling
diodes are fused. Since they are fitted in a very tiny
structure, inserted into the wave coaxial guide, it is
rather tricky to attempt replacing the diode by a modern
SMD Ga As shottky device. The original are obviously
point germanium diodes, though not written on the
manual. Has anybody an idea where to get such sampling
assemplies (which includes a resistor, a 2 pf capa and
the diode in a very specific assembly), or an idea to
fit a modern component in place of the old one ?
??? Thanks for replay !
??????? bernjc
|
Re: HP 1817A TDR sampling head
I was thinking in terms of a beam lead microwave diode ¨C but held back from suggesting it given the difficulty in handling, mounting and soldering/conductive epoxy/lead bonding such physically tiny devices. But given the bandwidth of the 1817A sampler, that would seem to be the only easily procurable (and cheap!) part family. And they have the correct sort of capacitance (0.2pF) and inductance (<250pH) needed. Just don¡¯t sneeze when handling them ¨C and a good stereo microscope is essential. ? Craig ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark Kahrs
Sent: 07 September 2020 03:56
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 1817A TDR sampling head? The 1817A sampler contains the incredible Grove sampler (see the US Patent, US 3,278,763 for the associated patentese, also see the Proc. IEEE paper by Grove for the theory of operation and detailed analysis).? IMHO, the Grove sampler was the last hurrah for non-monolithic microwave sampler construction.? Since this sampler was found in many HP instruments of the era, you can find repair instructions in the 1430C manual (and others).? Basically, the diode is a pill that is shimmed into contact with the stripline.? To replace this with a modern diode, you're going to have to fabricate a matching mechanical contrivance.? I suggest (without having done this), that you might be able to "print" a suitable diode holder and then insert a replacement diode (it would be tempting to use a beam-lead diode or find a suitable pill diode). For extra homework, I suggest replicating Grove's analysis in the Proceedings. ? Hello,
???? I'm trying to repair several old 1817A sampling heads. They all show the same failure : the sampling diodes are fused. Since they are fitted in a very tiny structure, inserted into the wave coaxial guide, it is rather tricky to attempt replacing the diode by a modern SMD Ga As shottky device. The original are obviously point germanium diodes, though not written on the manual. Has anybody an idea where to get such sampling assemplies (which includes a resistor, a 2 pf capa and the diode in a very specific assembly), or an idea to fit a modern component in place of the old one ?
??? Thanks for replay !
??????? bernjc
|
Lot of 3 HP 8405A Vector Voltmeters Ham Radio Vintage Hewlett Packard - $200
From the Seattle Craigslist
https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/ele/d/snoqualmie-lot-of-3-hp-8405a-vector/7187185039.html
|
Re: HP 1817A TDR sampling head
Salut Jean-Claude:
The 1817A sampler contains the incredible Grove sampler (see the US Patent, US 3,278,763 for the associated patentese, also see the Proc. IEEE paper by Grove for the theory of operation and detailed analysis).? IMHO, the Grove sampler was the last hurrah for non-monolithic microwave sampler construction.? Since this sampler was found in many HP instruments of the era, you can find repair instructions in the 1430C manual (and others).? Basically, the diode is a pill that is shimmed into contact with the stripline.? To replace this with a modern diode, you're going to have to fabricate a matching mechanical contrivance.? I suggest (without having done this), that you might be able to "print" a suitable diode holder and then insert a replacement diode (it would be tempting to use a beam-lead diode or find a suitable pill diode).
For extra homework, I suggest replicating Grove's analysis in the Proceedings.
Bonne Chance!
Hello,
???? I'm trying to repair several old 1817A sampling heads. They all show the same failure : the sampling diodes are fused. Since they are fitted in a very tiny structure, inserted into the wave coaxial guide, it is rather tricky to attempt replacing the diode by a modern SMD Ga As shottky device. The original are obviously point germanium diodes, though not written on the manual. Has anybody an idea where to get such sampling assemplies (which includes a resistor, a 2 pf capa and the diode in a very specific assembly), or an idea to fit a modern component in place of the old one ?
??? Thanks for replay !
??????? bernjc
|
Re: looking for a few knobs
On 9/6/20 8:19 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote: I don't have a printer yet, but I would appreciate the files for when I do get one. I will send them off-list. I own the house. The damage was caused by a tree that a neighbor won't trim, or remove. The drop was installed in 1964. I was already planning to replace all the old wiring, but not all at once. My old Dell optiplex 780 and Insignia monitor were still working with the line at 67 volts. Duke Energy cancelled the first service? call, because their idiot 'Smart Meter' reported that my service was working. I had to threaten to call the Florida PUCO before they sent out a crew. The lead tech rolled his eyes when I told him the neural was open. Then he saw the break, arching. Tired old triplex that had pulled loose from the street pole and was drooping below six feet. I should have called OSHA, because it was over a neighbor's yard where kids were playing. I thought Florida power, and then Progress Energy were bad, but Duke is even worse. I am going to install underground service, but I would like to have waited until they do a promised rebuild. The entire subdivision was wired over 50 years ago and it was not designed for electric stoves and air conditioning. It needs to be upgraded to at least four times the current capacity. It was designed for 60A service, and for snowbirds second homes. I have a 1200 square foot building for my workshop. It was already upgraded to a 100A breaker box but I am currently unable to work there. Wow. That is a substantial lawsuit waiting to happen. That neighbor needs to be *ruined*. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
|
Re: Agilent E1430A and E1485A driver software
On 6/09/20 10:07 pm, spam@... wrote: Hi,
I have scanned Internet for some days to get drivers for these two cards (HP E1430A is an ADC, HP E1485A is a DSP).
Have scanned of course this group here too :-)
Result so far: Manual for E1430A is available, also DSCPI drivers for HP GPIB command modules. I've just uploaded my SCPI driver collection to /g/vxi/It has the serial uploader for E1430A as well as the GPIB version. For E1485A I found neither manual nor software. I've got the install/service guide pdf for the E1485C. Plus notes etc on upgrading the SPOS on that module if you don't have that already. There was a HP 35635T?Programming Toolkit?sold on tape with these cards in the old days to be used on e.g. HP V743 HP/UX and Windows. I managed to find a PDF of a Powerpoint presentation regarding this product but nothing else so far. Any hints where I could get this old software (HP 35635T?Programming Toolkit ) or parts of it today? I would give my left testicle... We've been having discussions recently on the VintHPcom group regarding having members check through their boxes of old floppies/HDD/s/tapes to look for software to try and get as much as possible archived in safe locations for future use. We'd be eternally grateful if anyone on this group that has such software could archive it as well. My immediate interest evolves around E1497A/B E1437A E1485B/D E6401A E6402A and WJ-9119 :^)
|
Keith Monahan
Anders
Michael A. Terrell
JCB_SFR
Dave McGuire