¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: HP 3335A Repair

 

Radu -
No problem, I agree. It is just that I know some people who get distracted from the problem at hand by searching for capacitor problems. Better to find the problem and perhaps trace it to a defective capacitor.

Have fun and I'd check the VCOs first, then look at the mixer inputs. Identifying the problem should e straight forward, finding the fix maybe / maybe not.

Cheers!

Bruce

Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>:

Bruce,
Thank you for your input. I will definitely look at your recommendation for
a path forward.

(to clarify - I didn't mean at all I'd be onboarding on a recapping project
before I get this working properly. Rather, in case I'm able to identify a
module most likely at fault for it, I'd pull it out and first examine if a
cap failure is triggering this particular symptom. A rather "wide net"
approach, but it does factor in the age of the unit.)

Thank you again, Bruce.

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 11:20 AM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:

Radu -

Most likely a problem with one of the synthesizers. Before you wast
time checking for caps, start looking at the synthesizer output. The
frequency range is clearly marked on the motherboard of the TF
section. Not that there is a problem with examining for defective
caps, but this is more likely an IC or cable problem. Fix the problem
first, then look at "restoring" the piece. The 3335 is an interesting
piece and you have an interesting problem.

My recommendation:
1) Read over (and understand) the frequency generation section
2) Look at the outputs of the various synthesizer sections - check the
VCOs first, then the divider outputs
3) Analyze the unit that is not working correctly

Best place to look at the synthesizer outputs is at the input of the
mixers (some are sma connectors on top of boards), others are
available on the motherboard.

Some guesses:
1) Defective divider or oscillator in one of the synthesizers
2) Incorrect data to the synthesizers from the front panel
3) The filter switching network problem

Cheers!

Bruce




Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>:

I got some really weird data to report.

I've been playing with adjusting the levels and frequency.

1. It seems I am able to get an output between exactly 14MHz and
19MHz.
One half a MHz up or down from there, output drops to zero.
2. As long as there's output (as above), the level adjustment seems to
be working OK. I haven't looked closer at whether the value is
exactly what
it should be, but it raises and lowers as I command it from the
AMPLITUDE
controls.
3. The frequency doesn't change as I adjust per #1 above. It's always
about 21.5MHz (says my scope).

Not sure what to make of it yet, but I am going to seek to determine
whether this can be triggered by a single module, pull it out and look
for
damaged caps (first line of defense).

Thank you all.
Radu.

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 5:24 AM Patricio A. Greco via groups.io
<patricio_greco@...> wrote:

You are Wellcome. Is a great satisfaction to put these jewels back to
work
again.


Regards, Patricio.


Ing. Patricio A. Greco
Taller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349
Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001
Laboratorio de Calibraci¨®n ISO 17025 AREA: RF/MW
Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159
San Miguel (1663)
Buenos Aires
T: +5411-4455-2557
F: +5411-4032-0072
www.servicios-electronicos.com.ar



On 18 Sep 2022, at 01:46, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>
wrote:

Thank you, Patricio, and thank you very much, Tom. Hopefully, my PS
repair
gets reflected soon in a fully functional unit.
I'm a bit disheartened, but I do very much appreciate your
encouragement!
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:43 PM Radu Dicher <vondicher@...>
wrote:

Bruce,
Thank you for pitching in.

Yes, upon restarting the unit, it goes to 1MHz and -86.98dBm
amplitude, which I think is default. Everything display-wise seems
perfect.
Except maybe the issue of no buffer time to allow the LO to reach
temperature, which I find odd. Maybe the LO is offline? Which may
explain
no sinewave at output.

I reconnected by hand the rigid line. Not sure if properly, as I don't
have a brass-torqued SMD wrench. I assume the worst that can happen
with
that is a non-leveled output, but not missing altogether. Not knowing
more
on the history of the unit, I assume maybe my handling of the shielded
modules may have severed the signal path somehow. Though I generally
have a
very soft and overly planned touch, if anything, so maybe the history
of
the unit is the issue. I dunno.

I will be looking into examining the signal path for any potential
interruptions. Given the history of the unit I tend to think it should
come
back online within spec, but that's not what we're seeing here.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:25 PM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:

Do you know at power up the output is ~ -80dBm - try setting the
amplatude to 0dBm and be sure you reconnected the hardline from the RF
unit to the attenuator. Any front panel diagnostics lit ???

Cheers!

Bruce

Quoting Tom Lee <tomlee@...>:

Great news, indeed. Keep going, Radu!

-- Cheers,
Tom

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
350 Jane Stanford Way
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070


On 9/17/2022 20:27, Radu Bogdan Dicher wrote:
Great news, folks.

After finding out both A15CR1 and CR2 were shorted, I replaced them
with 1N4003s, and all rails are now coming online in spec (while
having the board out, I also replaced all 10uF caps). Now the +15V
is just a hair off at 14.987V (should be within 0.01V of 15V), but
I can't imagine that's a huge deal.

However, I don't seem to see any signal coming out of it. Learning
how to use it, so take that with a grain of salt.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 6:54 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via groups.io
<> <vondicher@...> wrote:

Well, after finally taking this apart (I'd post pictures, but I
am
a bit ptsd'ed...) I have two shorted diodes on A15 - CR1 and
CR2.
I am thinking vanilla 1N4148 would be OK in this position -
thoughts?
Thank you,
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 5:30 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via
groups.io
<> <vondicher@...> wrote:

Raymond, Clay,
You both sort of got beat by a hair with the 4 youtube
videos
Clay is talking about. Must be this:
.

And yes, I take back my statement on the overall assembly
design of this unit. I didn't know there's just one SMA
connecting the shielded modules (there's actually several in
my unit as to, I think, the youtube sample, but they're not
rigid lines), but overall, it's a breeze to take apart (once
you know what the correct path is).

Thank you both! On to the work for me.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 4:42 PM Raymond Domp Frank
<hewpatek@...> wrote:

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 01:22 AM, freshndaire wrote:

I would not call this unit hard to service or a poor
mechanical design. Pull the big aluminum hunk and
you
have lots of access! The synthesizer module has 3
long bolts holding it in. Remove the SMA Semi-rigid
coax cable from the module's backplane then pull
the 3
screws in the middle and you can lift the synth
module
and set it aside with the other cables plugged in
IIRC.

So my memory served me right!

Raymond



















Re: Pozidriv screws on HP covers

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Can¡¯t speak to the facts but recall seeing them earlier.?


Says 1967

-Dale


On Sep 18, 2022, at 15:00, F1EKU <rfconsulting.fr@...> wrote:

?If I remember correctly, the introduction of Torx screws was made by HP around 1990, at the same time as the patent for Torx screws became public domain.


Re: HP 3335A Repair

 

Bruce,
Thank you for your input. I will definitely look at your recommendation for a path forward.?

(to clarify - I didn't mean at all I'd be onboarding on a recapping project before I get this working properly. Rather, in case I'm able to identify a module most likely at fault for it, I'd pull it out and first examine if a cap failure is triggering this particular symptom. A rather "wide net" approach, but it does factor in the age of the unit.)

Thank you again, Bruce.?

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 11:20 AM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:
Radu -

Most likely a problem with one of the synthesizers.? Before you wast?
time checking for caps, start looking at the synthesizer output.? The?
frequency range is clearly marked on the motherboard of the TF?
section.? Not that there is a problem with examining for defective?
caps, but this is more likely an IC or cable problem.? Fix the problem?
first, then look at "restoring" the piece.? The 3335 is an interesting?
piece and you have an interesting problem.

My recommendation:
1) Read over (and understand) the frequency generation section
2) Look at the outputs of the various synthesizer sections - check the?
VCOs first, then the divider outputs
3) Analyze the unit that is not working correctly

Best place to look at the synthesizer outputs is at the input of the?
mixers (some are sma connectors on top of boards), others are?
available on the motherboard.

Some guesses:
1) Defective divider or oscillator in one of the synthesizers
2) Incorrect data to the synthesizers from the front panel
3) The filter switching network problem

Cheers!

Bruce




Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>:

> I got some really weird data to report.
>
> I've been playing with adjusting the levels and frequency.
>
>? ? 1. It seems I am able to get an output between exactly 14MHz and 19MHz.
>? ? One half a MHz up or down from there, output drops to zero.
>? ? 2. As long as there's output (as above), the level adjustment seems to
>? ? be working OK. I haven't looked closer at whether the value is?
> exactly what
>? ? it should be, but it raises and lowers as I command it from the AMPLITUDE
>? ? controls.
>? ? 3. The frequency doesn't change as I adjust per #1 above. It's always
>? ? about 21.5MHz (says my scope).
>
> Not sure what to make of it yet, but I am going to seek to determine
> whether this can be triggered by a single module, pull it out and look for
> damaged caps (first line of defense).
>
> Thank you all.
> Radu.
>
> On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 5:24 AM Patricio A. Greco via
> <patricio_greco=[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You are Wellcome. Is a great satisfaction to put these jewels back to work
>> again.
>>
>>
>> Regards, Patricio.
>>
>>
>> Ing. Patricio A. Greco
>> Taller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349
>> Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001
>> Laboratorio de Calibraci¨®n ISO 17025 AREA: RF/MW
>> Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159
>> San Miguel (1663)
>> Buenos Aires
>> T: +5411-4455-2557
>> F: +5411-4032-0072
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 18 Sep 2022, at 01:46, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:
>>
>> Thank you, Patricio, and thank you very much, Tom. Hopefully, my PS repair
>> gets reflected soon in a fully functional unit.
>> I'm a bit disheartened, but I do very much appreciate your encouragement!
>> Radu.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:43 PM Radu Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:
>>
>>> Bruce,
>>> Thank you for pitching in.
>>>
>>> Yes, upon restarting the unit, it goes to 1MHz and -86.98dBm
>>> amplitude, which I think is default. Everything display-wise seems perfect.
>>> Except maybe the issue of no buffer time to allow the LO to reach
>>> temperature, which I find odd. Maybe the LO is offline? Which may explain
>>> no sinewave at output.
>>>
>>> I reconnected by hand the rigid line. Not sure if properly, as I don't
>>> have a brass-torqued SMD wrench. I assume the worst that can happen with
>>> that is a non-leveled output, but not missing altogether. Not knowing more
>>> on the history of the unit, I assume maybe my handling of the shielded
>>> modules may have severed the signal path somehow. Though I generally have a
>>> very soft and overly planned touch, if anything, so maybe the history of
>>> the unit is the issue. I dunno.
>>>
>>> I will be looking into examining the signal path for any potential
>>> interruptions. Given the history of the unit I tend to think it should come
>>> back online within spec, but that's not what we're seeing here.
>>> Radu.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:25 PM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Do you know at power up the output is ~ -80dBm - try setting the
>>>> amplatude to 0dBm and be sure you reconnected the hardline from the RF
>>>> unit to the attenuator.? Any front panel diagnostics lit ???
>>>>
>>>> Cheers!
>>>>
>>>> Bruce
>>>>
>>>> Quoting Tom Lee <tomlee@...>:
>>>>
>>>> > Great news, indeed. Keep going, Radu!
>>>> >
>>>> > -- Cheers,
>>>> > Tom
>>>> >
>>>> > --
>>>> > Prof. Thomas H. Lee
>>>> > Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
>>>> > 350 Jane Stanford Way
>>>> > Stanford University
>>>> > Stanford, CA 94305-4070
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > On 9/17/2022 20:27, Radu Bogdan Dicher wrote:
>>>> >> Great news, folks.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> After finding out both A15CR1 and CR2 were shorted, I replaced them
>>>> >> with 1N4003s, and all rails are now coming online in spec (while
>>>> >> having the board out, I also replaced all 10uF caps). Now the +15V
>>>> >> is just a hair off at 14.987V (should be within 0.01V of 15V), but
>>>> >> I can't imagine that's a huge deal.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> However, I don't seem to see any signal coming out of it. Learning
>>>> >> how to use it, so take that with a grain of salt.
>>>> >> Radu.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 6:54 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via
>>>> >> <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? Well, after finally taking this apart (I'd post pictures, but I am
>>>> >>? ? a bit ptsd'ed...) I have two shorted diodes on A15 - CR1 and CR2.
>>>> >>? ? I am thinking vanilla 1N4148 would be OK in this position -
>>>> thoughts?
>>>> >>? ? Thank you,
>>>> >>? ? Radu.
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 5:30 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via
>>>> >>? ? <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? Raymond, Clay,
>>>> >>? ? ? ? You both sort of got beat by a hair with the 4 youtube videos
>>>> >>? ? ? ? Clay is talking about. Must be this:
>>>> >>? ? ? ? .
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? And yes, I take back my statement on the overall assembly
>>>> >>? ? ? ? design of this unit. I didn't know there's just one SMA
>>>> >>? ? ? ? connecting the shielded modules (there's actually several in
>>>> >>? ? ? ? my unit as to, I think, the youtube sample, but they're not
>>>> >>? ? ? ? rigid lines), but overall, it's a breeze to take apart (once
>>>> >>? ? ? ? you know what the correct path is).
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? Thank you both! On to the work for me.
>>>> >>? ? ? ? Radu.
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 4:42 PM Raymond Domp Frank
>>>> >>? ? ? ? <hewpatek@...> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 01:22 AM, freshndaire wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I would not call this unit hard to service or a poor
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? mechanical design.? Pull the big aluminum hunk and you
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? have lots of access!? The synthesizer module has 3
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? long bolts holding it in.? Remove the SMA Semi-rigid
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? coax cable from the module's backplane then pull the 3
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? screws in the middle and you can lift the synth module
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? and set it aside with the other cables plugged in IIRC.
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? So my memory served me right!
>>>> >>
>>>> >>? ? ? ? ? ? Raymond
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>









Re: Pozidrive screws on HP covers

 

Reed and Prince was a phillips competitor that was used
almost exclusively for wood screws. The difference is
Phillips comes to a flat where all of the edges of the
driver come together and Reed and Prince comes to a point.
The angle is slightly different too.

Definitely nothing like a Pozidriv.

-Chuck Harris

On Sat, 17 Sep 2022 19:38:02 -0700 "Mike D." <DrD@...> wrote:
Back in the '60's, while In the USAF, we knew these as "Reed and
Prince" screw heads.? I've since noted the more commonly used term of
Pozidriv's.? .





Re: Pozidriv screws on HP covers

 

If I remember correctly, the introduction of Torx screws was made by HP around 1990, at the same time as the patent for Torx screws became public domain.


Re: A tale of 2 8640B sig gens

 

The 8640B is a real gem. It's hard to beat a cavity oscillator for generating a clean sine. These gens are definitely worth keeping!

As ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð pointed out, aftermarket gears are available. They're by far your most durable repair option. For additional information, I highly recommend reading K6JCA's blog entry on the gears:



There are other options, too, depending on the condition of the existing gears, and your expectations/needs for lifetime. VE7CA describes a method for re-using the existing gears, with a little filing and gluing:



A quick search shows up quite a few blogs about the gears and various repair methods.

Good luck fixing the gears (and rotary switch -- that's where those contact fingers came from).

-- Cheers,
Tom

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
350 Jane Stanford Way
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070

On 9/18/2022 10:14, Jim via groups.io wrote:
I recently picked up a pair a 8640B's for a good price (I think...)

Any advice on how to fix the gears on at least the one working unit? I am mechanically adept. It would be really cool if I could get both units working so that I could test 2/20 KHz selectivity on receivers. I read somewhere that someone (in Italy?) had/does offer brass replacement gears - but I couldn't find supplier or cost, or a review of them or how long ago this was.


Re: HP 3335A Repair

 

Radu -

Most likely a problem with one of the synthesizers. Before you wast time checking for caps, start looking at the synthesizer output. The frequency range is clearly marked on the motherboard of the TF section. Not that there is a problem with examining for defective caps, but this is more likely an IC or cable problem. Fix the problem first, then look at "restoring" the piece. The 3335 is an interesting piece and you have an interesting problem.

My recommendation:
1) Read over (and understand) the frequency generation section
2) Look at the outputs of the various synthesizer sections - check the VCOs first, then the divider outputs
3) Analyze the unit that is not working correctly

Best place to look at the synthesizer outputs is at the input of the mixers (some are sma connectors on top of boards), others are available on the motherboard.

Some guesses:
1) Defective divider or oscillator in one of the synthesizers
2) Incorrect data to the synthesizers from the front panel
3) The filter switching network problem

Cheers!

Bruce




Quoting Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...>:

I got some really weird data to report.

I've been playing with adjusting the levels and frequency.

1. It seems I am able to get an output between exactly 14MHz and 19MHz.
One half a MHz up or down from there, output drops to zero.
2. As long as there's output (as above), the level adjustment seems to
be working OK. I haven't looked closer at whether the value is exactly what
it should be, but it raises and lowers as I command it from the AMPLITUDE
controls.
3. The frequency doesn't change as I adjust per #1 above. It's always
about 21.5MHz (says my scope).

Not sure what to make of it yet, but I am going to seek to determine
whether this can be triggered by a single module, pull it out and look for
damaged caps (first line of defense).

Thank you all.
Radu.

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 5:24 AM Patricio A. Greco via groups.io
<patricio_greco@...> wrote:

You are Wellcome. Is a great satisfaction to put these jewels back to work
again.


Regards, Patricio.


Ing. Patricio A. Greco
Taller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349
Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001
Laboratorio de Calibraci¨®n ISO 17025 AREA: RF/MW
Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159
San Miguel (1663)
Buenos Aires
T: +5411-4455-2557
F: +5411-4032-0072
www.servicios-electronicos.com.ar



On 18 Sep 2022, at 01:46, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:

Thank you, Patricio, and thank you very much, Tom. Hopefully, my PS repair
gets reflected soon in a fully functional unit.
I'm a bit disheartened, but I do very much appreciate your encouragement!
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:43 PM Radu Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:

Bruce,
Thank you for pitching in.

Yes, upon restarting the unit, it goes to 1MHz and -86.98dBm
amplitude, which I think is default. Everything display-wise seems perfect.
Except maybe the issue of no buffer time to allow the LO to reach
temperature, which I find odd. Maybe the LO is offline? Which may explain
no sinewave at output.

I reconnected by hand the rigid line. Not sure if properly, as I don't
have a brass-torqued SMD wrench. I assume the worst that can happen with
that is a non-leveled output, but not missing altogether. Not knowing more
on the history of the unit, I assume maybe my handling of the shielded
modules may have severed the signal path somehow. Though I generally have a
very soft and overly planned touch, if anything, so maybe the history of
the unit is the issue. I dunno.

I will be looking into examining the signal path for any potential
interruptions. Given the history of the unit I tend to think it should come
back online within spec, but that's not what we're seeing here.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:25 PM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:

Do you know at power up the output is ~ -80dBm - try setting the
amplatude to 0dBm and be sure you reconnected the hardline from the RF
unit to the attenuator. Any front panel diagnostics lit ???

Cheers!

Bruce

Quoting Tom Lee <tomlee@...>:

Great news, indeed. Keep going, Radu!

-- Cheers,
Tom

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
350 Jane Stanford Way
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070


On 9/17/2022 20:27, Radu Bogdan Dicher wrote:
Great news, folks.

After finding out both A15CR1 and CR2 were shorted, I replaced them
with 1N4003s, and all rails are now coming online in spec (while
having the board out, I also replaced all 10uF caps). Now the +15V
is just a hair off at 14.987V (should be within 0.01V of 15V), but
I can't imagine that's a huge deal.

However, I don't seem to see any signal coming out of it. Learning
how to use it, so take that with a grain of salt.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 6:54 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via groups.io
<> <vondicher@...> wrote:

Well, after finally taking this apart (I'd post pictures, but I am
a bit ptsd'ed...) I have two shorted diodes on A15 - CR1 and CR2.
I am thinking vanilla 1N4148 would be OK in this position -
thoughts?
Thank you,
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 5:30 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via groups.io
<> <vondicher@...> wrote:

Raymond, Clay,
You both sort of got beat by a hair with the 4 youtube videos
Clay is talking about. Must be this:
.

And yes, I take back my statement on the overall assembly
design of this unit. I didn't know there's just one SMA
connecting the shielded modules (there's actually several in
my unit as to, I think, the youtube sample, but they're not
rigid lines), but overall, it's a breeze to take apart (once
you know what the correct path is).

Thank you both! On to the work for me.
Radu.

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 4:42 PM Raymond Domp Frank
<hewpatek@...> wrote:

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 01:22 AM, freshndaire wrote:

I would not call this unit hard to service or a poor
mechanical design. Pull the big aluminum hunk and you
have lots of access! The synthesizer module has 3
long bolts holding it in. Remove the SMA Semi-rigid
coax cable from the module's backplane then pull the 3
screws in the middle and you can lift the synth module
and set it aside with the other cables plugged in IIRC.

So my memory served me right!

Raymond











Re: HP 3335A Repair

 

I got some really weird data to report.?

I've been playing with adjusting the levels and frequency.?
  1. It seems I am able to get an output between exactly 14MHz and 19MHz. One half a MHz up or down from there, output drops to zero.?
  2. As long as there's output (as above), the level adjustment seems to be working OK. I haven't looked closer at whether the value is exactly what it should be, but it raises and lowers as I command it from the AMPLITUDE controls.?
  3. The frequency doesn't change as I adjust per #1 above. It's always about 21.5MHz (says my scope).?
Not sure what to make?of it yet, but I am going to seek to determine whether this can be triggered by a single module, pull it out and look for damaged caps (first line of defense).

Thank you all.?
Radu.?

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 5:24 AM Patricio A. Greco via <patricio_greco=[email protected]> wrote:
You are Wellcome. Is a great satisfaction to put these jewels back to work again.?


Regards, Patricio.?


Ing. Patricio A. Greco
Taller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349
Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento?Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001
Laboratorio de Calibraci¨®n ISO 17025?AREA: RF/MW?
Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159
San Miguel (1663)
Buenos Aires
T: +5411-4455-2557
F: +5411-4032-0072




On 18 Sep 2022, at 01:46, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:

Thank you, Patricio, and thank you very much, Tom. Hopefully, my PS repair gets reflected soon in a fully functional unit.?
I'm a bit disheartened, but I do very much appreciate your encouragement!
Radu.?

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:43 PM Radu Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:
Bruce,
Thank you for pitching in.?

Yes, upon restarting the unit, it goes to 1MHz and -86.98dBm amplitude,?which I think is default. Everything display-wise seems perfect. Except maybe the issue of no?buffer time to?allow the LO to reach temperature, which I find odd. Maybe the LO is offline? Which may explain no sinewave at output.?

I reconnected by hand the rigid line. Not sure if properly, as I don't have a brass-torqued SMD wrench. I assume the worst that can happen with that is a non-leveled output, but not missing altogether. Not knowing more on the history of the unit, I assume maybe my handling of the shielded modules may have severed the signal path somehow. Though I generally?have a very soft and?overly planned touch, if anything, so maybe the history of the unit is the issue. I dunno.?

I will be looking into examining the signal path for any potential interruptions. Given the history of the unit I tend to think it should come back online?within spec,?but that's not what we're seeing here.?
Radu.?

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:25 PM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:
Do you know at power up the output is ~ -80dBm - try setting the??
amplatude to 0dBm and be sure you reconnected the hardline from the RF??
unit to the attenuator.? Any front panel diagnostics lit ???

Cheers!

Bruce

Quoting Tom Lee <tomlee@...>:

> Great news, indeed. Keep going, Radu!
>
> -- Cheers,
> Tom
>
> --?
> Prof. Thomas H. Lee
> Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
> 350 Jane Stanford Way
> Stanford University
> Stanford, CA 94305-4070
>?
>
> On 9/17/2022 20:27, Radu Bogdan Dicher wrote:
>> Great news, folks.
>>
>> After finding out both A15CR1 and CR2 were shorted, I replaced them??
>> with 1N4003s, and all rails are now coming online in spec?(while??
>> having the board out, I also replaced all 10uF caps). Now the?+15V??
>> is just a hair off at 14.987V (should be within 0.01V of 15V), but??
>> I can't imagine that's a huge deal.
>>
>> However, I don't seem to see any signal coming out of it. Learning??
>> how to use it, so take that with a grain of salt.
>> Radu.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 6:54 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via???
>> <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>? ? Well, after finally taking this apart (I'd post pictures, but I am
>>? ? a bit ptsd'ed...) I have two shorted diodes on A15 - CR1 and CR2.
>>? ? I am thinking vanilla 1N4148 would be OK in this position - thoughts?
>>? ? Thank you,
>>? ? Radu.
>>
>>? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 5:30 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via?
>>? ? <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? Raymond, Clay,
>>? ? ? ? You both sort of got beat by a hair with the 4 youtube videos
>>? ? ? ? Clay is talking about. Must be this:
>>? ? ? ??.
>>
>>? ? ? ? And yes, I take back my statement on the overall assembly
>>? ? ? ? design of this unit. I didn't know there's just one SMA
>>? ? ? ? connecting?the shielded modules (there's actually several in
>>? ? ? ? my unit as to, I think, the youtube sample, but they're not
>>? ? ? ? rigid lines), but overall, it's a breeze to take apart (once
>>? ? ? ? you know what the correct path is).
>>
>>? ? ? ? Thank you both! On to the work for me.
>>? ? ? ? Radu.
>>
>>? ? ? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 4:42 PM Raymond Domp Frank
>>? ? ? ? <hewpatek@...> wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 01:22 AM, freshndaire wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I would not call this unit hard to service or a poor
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? mechanical design.? Pull the big aluminum hunk and you
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? have lots of access!? The synthesizer module has 3
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? long bolts holding it in.? Remove the SMA Semi-rigid
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? coax cable from the module's backplane then pull the 3
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? screws in the middle and you can lift the synth module
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? and set it aside with the other cables plugged in IIRC.
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? So my memory served me right!
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? Raymond
>
>
>?










Re: A tale of 2 8640B sig gens

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Order new brass gears, solves the issue with cracked gears forever. Ram the gentleman on Ebay is wonderful.

if the link does not work find seller??? engineeringideas??
also look for 8640 gears
you will need them all, two combo and one spur
hope this helps
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð

On 9/18/22 10:14 AM, Jim via groups.io wrote:

I recently picked up a pair a 8640B's for a good price (I think...) The short history is that a ham was selling them for the wife of a recent SK. She knows nothing about the hobby. He knew very little about the sig gens' histories. Supposedly the ham was a member of a club and used them to help members repair / test rigs. One of the sig gens is supposed to work, the other was for parts, condx unknown, but it has an "X" on the bezel along with a small plastic bag taped to the top the has 2 very tiny gold fingers in it.

All of the controls on both units rotate through their full range of motion with no issues (as far as I can tell). I powered up the 1 unit (it had a power cord attached), unit seems to run okay, LEDs, lamps seem to cycle okay with the expected illumination, meter indicates output and it varies when I move the attenuator. Fan runs, heatsink seems to run very warm after a couple of hours. I have not looked at the output on a scope yet. I have not powered up the 2nd unit (with the X on it)

The 1 working unit has option 001, the other unit has no options.

Visual inspection of inisde of "good" unit. 3 nylon gears cracked: 1 range gear (1 plc), 1 fm deviation gear (2 plcs), 1 smaller gear that drives the main tuning osc (2 plcs)
The bad (i.e "X" parts) unit has 1 range gear cracked in 1 place but all parts seem to be intact/present in the unit.

Any advice on how to fix the gears on at least the one working unit? I am mechanically adept. It would be really cool if I could get both units working so that I could test 2/20 KHz selectivity on receivers. I read somewhere that someone (in Italy?) had/does offer brass replacement gears - but I couldn't find supplier or cost, or a review of them or how long ago this was.

I've downloaded and did a cursory read of the docs I could find related to the 8640b.

I bought these because I need a decent generator to replace the 8647a that I recently discovered has hidden damage (attenuator output has one range that is not correct) that I was not aware of. And 8647a's appear to be unservicable. I realize that the specs on the 8647a are not good enough for doing the selectivity tests, but it wasn't originally purchased for that purpose.

Did I waste my money? Should I just use the one until the gears just completely break?? This test equipment is just my hobby, I don't make any money from this but I like my equipment to be in good working order.

Thanks,
Jim


A tale of 2 8640B sig gens

 

I recently picked up a pair a 8640B's for a good price (I think...) The short history is that a ham was selling them for the wife of a recent SK. She knows nothing about the hobby. He knew very little about the sig gens' histories. Supposedly the ham was a member of a club and used them to help members repair / test rigs. One of the sig gens is supposed to work, the other was for parts, condx unknown, but it has an "X" on the bezel along with a small plastic bag taped to the top the has 2 very tiny gold fingers in it.

All of the controls on both units rotate through their full range of motion with no issues (as far as I can tell). I powered up the 1 unit (it had a power cord attached), unit seems to run okay, LEDs, lamps seem to cycle okay with the expected illumination, meter indicates output and it varies when I move the attenuator. Fan runs, heatsink seems to run very warm after a couple of hours. I have not looked at the output on a scope yet. I have not powered up the 2nd unit (with the X on it)

The 1 working unit has option 001, the other unit has no options.

Visual inspection of inisde of "good" unit. 3 nylon gears cracked: 1 range gear (1 plc), 1 fm deviation gear (2 plcs), 1 smaller gear that drives the main tuning osc (2 plcs)
The bad (i.e "X" parts) unit has 1 range gear cracked in 1 place but all parts seem to be intact/present in the unit.

Any advice on how to fix the gears on at least the one working unit? I am mechanically adept. It would be really cool if I could get both units working so that I could test 2/20 KHz selectivity on receivers. I read somewhere that someone (in Italy?) had/does offer brass replacement gears - but I couldn't find supplier or cost, or a review of them or how long ago this was.

I've downloaded and did a cursory read of the docs I could find related to the 8640b.

I bought these because I need a decent generator to replace the 8647a that I recently discovered has hidden damage (attenuator output has one range that is not correct) that I was not aware of. And 8647a's appear to be unservicable. I realize that the specs on the 8647a are not good enough for doing the selectivity tests, but it wasn't originally purchased for that purpose.

Did I waste my money? Should I just use the one until the gears just completely break?? This test equipment is just my hobby, I don't make any money from this but I like my equipment to be in good working order.

Thanks,
Jim


Re: HP6268B repairability

 

BTW I am think of getting this rolling rack unit for the power supply:


What do you guys think? Or perhaps any alternative suggestions? I am still open, and was even considering some stainless steel server trolly carts, but in the end I think this rack would work nicely, and I can even push it under the bench when not in use.

The supply would go on the bottom (it would stick out the back about 1"), and on the shelf I would put the HP6060B electronic load, and perhaps the HP3457A, that already has handles and ears. For the recently acquired 6060B found a NOS 5063-9219 rack handle/ear kit on ebay at $45 free ship. Those 3.5" HP old style handles seem to be getting more and more difficult to find. There is still a seller offering another of the same NOS kit but this one is asking $99 plus shipping which I think is too much unless you really really want it. I love the look of HP instruments with that kit installed even if not really needed while being used on a bench.


Re: HP6268B repairability

 

Yesterday finished re-strapping both the bias and main transformers for 115V, also pulled the front panel in order to straighten up the two corners that where somewhat bent inwards a bit during shipping in a very flimsy cardboard box. One corner was bent more than the other and that thick aluminum definitively does not want to bend back easily, unless of course is during a fall and 70+ pounds pushing on it. Anyway it now looks decent again, and I took the time to clean and wash the whole panel, remove any sticky remainders, zero out the voltmeter needle, etc.

Since I still don't have the Mouser order for the main board and RFI assembly board caps, yesterday tried it out by connecting a 60W light bulb where the Triac would go. Sure enough it came up fine, with about 75V reaching the transformers that way. That allowed the main caps to gradually charge up to about 40V, and the fans to exercise a bit since who knows when they last turned. The fan on the heatsink is obnoxiously loud (not sure this is the "normal"), but I am suspecting bearings might be a bit worn and will need to be replaced. I mean the thing is really noisy so for now I nipped one of the wires as it was very distracting. If this is normal I will add a switch to turn it on only during high power requirements.

Back to the power supply, main caps charge up to about 36-40V, but zero output while turning the voltage adjustment pot. Started checking voltages at the reference/bias section as shown on table 5-2 (page 53). The 12.4V, and +6.2/-6.2V are within tolerance, but +11V is actually at +15V which is at the positive side of C61, and -4V is correct on the negative side of the same cap (its supposed to be reading +4V but the instructions make you switch voltmeter probes as they used an analog instrument, so actual voltage at the test point is negative). All these measurements have to be made referenced to +S which is the main positive output rail. Strangely the C61 cap is also shown on the schematic to have 24.5V directly across it, which I also found to be correct at 25V so not sure whats the matter with the wrong +11V reading being high. I noticed that both C31 and C60 filter caps felt a bit more then warm, at first I though it might be due to the power resistors to each cap, but in the end it was confirmed that they where warming up themselves. Measured ripple across each and got 600mV on one and 900mV on the other. So both came out and temporarily replacements went in which brought down the ripple to about 100mV across both caps. Bias/Ref voltages where still pretty much the same in spec, but the +11V still remains at +15V. Power supply output was still zero and no effect with the voltage set pots.

After fiddling a bit more noticed both current potentiometers where fully CCW, and once I turned the coarse setting the other way the power supply came alive but then at some point the over-voltage light warning light came on. Sure enough the trip voltage was set only about midway, so adjusted it to fully CW. Then after a power cycle to reset the crowbar I am now getting normal output voltage up the 36-40V depending on my AC voltage input through the light bulb. Set it to 12V and placed a 500mA load at the output and it held up fine, but increasing the load to about 1amp caused the voltage to slowly fall off. Given I don't have an active preregulator circuit in place this was of course to be expected, but otherwise the analog regulation portion seems to be working fine.

So hopefully will get the Mouser order in mid next week, replace the rest of the electrolytic caps on the A1 main board and get the preregulator Triac firing again. I tested it and it seems fine, or at least its not dead shorted. Oh and while turning the power supply around I started hearing yet another loose part rattling around somewhere under the A4 heatsink, so started to pull out that assembly according to the instructions on how to do it: "Disengage two pins holding lower section of heat sink assembly to main circuit board support tray by sliding heat sink down about 1/2 inch and slightly away from chassis". It sounds easy, but it would not budge, and not exactly very clear or rather scant instructions for someone that has never done this before. There was definitively not nearly enough clearance at several points, specially the fan reaching the limit of travel at the output straps, while the other end of the heatsink was still trapped at least half way under the edge of the chassis where the two screws that hold it go. Impossible, and I tried every possible way. The only way to get it out was to remove all 6 screws that hold the rear panel in place and pull the panel out enough so as to increase the overall clearance to A4 which give a bit extra wiggle room, just enough to actually follow the instructions. I think HP forgot to add this last part to those instructions, so take note if you ever have to do this. Once the rear panels was loose it was actually not too difficult wrangling the whole thing out, which mercifully has rather long cables attached to facilitate putting it on the bench for testing next to the power supply without having to disconnect any wires.

Anyway, everything looked good on the heatsink, so back it went in place. In the end the newly found rattling noise was the last missing screw that holds the red RFI cover in place and that someone had obviously taken apart and in the process managed to break off the threads off three out of four of the aluminum stand offs inside. I am hoping the whole problem of this power supply in the end will be that missing standoff that actually connects one leg of the AC input power to the Triac. It could never even power up without that standoff in place, and given everything else seems to work I have high hopes the power supply will be fully operational after I restore all connections inside the red box and get that big light dimmer module to work again.


Source of floppy disks

 

This might be of interest to some people here
https://hardware.slashdot.org/story/22/09/17/0548233/meet-the-man-who-still-sells-floppy-disks


Re: HP 53131A frequency counter fails self test

 

Hello
wanted you to have some kind of reply, was sort of hanging back to allow someone more knowledgeable to weigh in, but based on my (limited) experience with these, your reported symptoms seem to me to indicate that your problem lies in the analog front end of channel 1. The fact that the other input channels produce readings indicates that all the digital and power supply circuitry is functional. The error is a general one, and could result from any number of faults. There may be overload or mechanical damage visible, start at the connector and work back, look for damaged resistirs, check the relays involved in the signal path, etc. You have a good channel (2) to compare with, that¡¯s a big help. One tip is to use the 10mhz output (rear panel) as your test input signal, makes it simple for go-no go troubleshooting. The manual?also has some troubleshooting info. Good luck!


Re: Pozidriv screws on HP covers

 

People everywhere have used the terms interchangeably for decades. They are *effectively* the same, if not actually.

-Dave

On 9/18/22 01:34, David C. Partridge wrote:
Star drive and Torx are NOT the same.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dave McGuire
Sent: 18 September 2022 05:44
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Pozidriv screws on HP covers
On 9/17/22 22:23, saipan59 (Pete) wrote:
Torx and square drive are the kings of readily available
high torque screws

Question: Is Torx and "star drive" the same thing? Perhaps the only
difference is that Torx is trademarked??
Yes. Look at the people who call Torx "star drive" with the same
derision as you would the people who equate Phillips, PoziDriv, and JIS
and call them all "crosspoints".
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA


Re: HP 3335A Repair

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

You are Wellcome. Is a great satisfaction to put these jewels back to work again.?


Regards, Patricio.?


Ing. Patricio A. Greco
Taller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349
Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento?Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001
Laboratorio de Calibraci¨®n ISO 17025?AREA: RF/MW?
Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159
San Miguel (1663)
Buenos Aires
T: +5411-4455-2557
F: +5411-4032-0072




On 18 Sep 2022, at 01:46, Radu Bogdan Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:

Thank you, Patricio, and thank you very much, Tom. Hopefully, my PS repair gets reflected soon in a fully functional unit.?
I'm a bit disheartened, but I do very much appreciate your encouragement!
Radu.?

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:43 PM Radu Dicher <vondicher@...> wrote:
Bruce,
Thank you for pitching in.?

Yes, upon restarting the unit, it goes to 1MHz and -86.98dBm amplitude,?which I think is default. Everything display-wise seems perfect. Except maybe the issue of no?buffer time to?allow the LO to reach temperature, which I find odd. Maybe the LO is offline? Which may explain no sinewave at output.?

I reconnected by hand the rigid line. Not sure if properly, as I don't have a brass-torqued SMD wrench. I assume the worst that can happen with that is a non-leveled output, but not missing altogether. Not knowing more on the history of the unit, I assume maybe my handling of the shielded modules may have severed the signal path somehow. Though I generally?have a very soft and?overly planned touch, if anything, so maybe the history of the unit is the issue. I dunno.?

I will be looking into examining the signal path for any potential interruptions. Given the history of the unit I tend to think it should come back online?within spec,?but that's not what we're seeing here.?
Radu.?

On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 9:25 PM Bruce <bruce@...> wrote:
Do you know at power up the output is ~ -80dBm - try setting the??
amplatude to 0dBm and be sure you reconnected the hardline from the RF??
unit to the attenuator.? Any front panel diagnostics lit ???

Cheers!

Bruce

Quoting Tom Lee <tomlee@...>:

> Great news, indeed. Keep going, Radu!
>
> -- Cheers,
> Tom
>
> --?
> Prof. Thomas H. Lee
> Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
> 350 Jane Stanford Way
> Stanford University
> Stanford, CA 94305-4070
>?
>
> On 9/17/2022 20:27, Radu Bogdan Dicher wrote:
>> Great news, folks.
>>
>> After finding out both A15CR1 and CR2 were shorted, I replaced them??
>> with 1N4003s, and all rails are now coming online in spec?(while??
>> having the board out, I also replaced all 10uF caps). Now the?+15V??
>> is just a hair off at 14.987V (should be within 0.01V of 15V), but??
>> I can't imagine that's a huge deal.
>>
>> However, I don't seem to see any signal coming out of it. Learning??
>> how to use it, so take that with a grain of salt.
>> Radu.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 6:54 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via???
>> <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>? ? Well, after finally taking this apart (I'd post pictures, but I am
>>? ? a bit ptsd'ed...) I have two shorted diodes on A15 - CR1 and CR2.
>>? ? I am thinking vanilla 1N4148 would be OK in this position - thoughts?
>>? ? Thank you,
>>? ? Radu.
>>
>>? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 5:30 PM Radu Bogdan Dicher via?
>>? ? <> <vondicher=[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? Raymond, Clay,
>>? ? ? ? You both sort of got beat by a hair with the 4 youtube videos
>>? ? ? ? Clay is talking about. Must be this:
>>? ? ? ??.
>>
>>? ? ? ? And yes, I take back my statement on the overall assembly
>>? ? ? ? design of this unit. I didn't know there's just one SMA
>>? ? ? ? connecting?the shielded modules (there's actually several in
>>? ? ? ? my unit as to, I think, the youtube sample, but they're not
>>? ? ? ? rigid lines), but overall, it's a breeze to take apart (once
>>? ? ? ? you know what the correct path is).
>>
>>? ? ? ? Thank you both! On to the work for me.
>>? ? ? ? Radu.
>>
>>? ? ? ? On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 4:42 PM Raymond Domp Frank
>>? ? ? ? <hewpatek@...> wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 01:22 AM, freshndaire wrote:
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? I would not call this unit hard to service or a poor
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? mechanical design.? Pull the big aluminum hunk and you
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? have lots of access!? The synthesizer module has 3
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? long bolts holding it in.? Remove the SMA Semi-rigid
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? coax cable from the module's backplane then pull the 3
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? screws in the middle and you can lift the synth module
>>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? and set it aside with the other cables plugged in IIRC.
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? So my memory served me right!
>>
>>? ? ? ? ? ? Raymond
>
>
>?










Re: E4982A Broken hard disk.

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Unfortunate it usually does not work, it only does for old drives.? Most modern drives store calibration and other parameters on some EEPROM in the board so they are not interchangeable.? I tried it several times without success.

Regards,

Ignacio


El 18/09/2022 a las 7:09, Kevin A. via groups.io escribi¨®:
How did the hard drive fail? If it is an electrical failure on the digital board, you might be able to buy an identical hard drive and swap the board.
_._,_._,_



Libre de virus.


Re: Pozidriv screws on HP covers

 

On Sun, Sep 18, 2022 at 04:23 AM, saipan59 (Pete) wrote:
Is Torx and "star drive" the same thing? Perhaps the only difference is that Torx is trademarked??
We're all contributing very fragmented information. There's a pretty good Wiki topic about this:


Raymond


Re: Pozidriv screws on HP covers

 

Vintage HP equipment certainly used Phillips head fastners. I wonder when they changed. With System II maybe?
Having worked in aviation as well as electronics and also had an interest in cars I've had to deal with a lot more than Philips, Posidrive? Hex and Torx. For example

Spline (Various number of points larger sizes).
Bristol Spline ( Small sizes Allen key / Torx like but parallel sided flanges used on some early HP shaft hardware lih gears and knobs also Collins & Juke boxes)
RIBE / Polydrive (Variation on spline with rounded ends used by Fiat and some GM)
XZN aka triple square
Various "security" bits and variations

For Aerospace:

Tri-wing
Tripoint
Torq-set
Hi-Torq (particuarly prone to damage, looks like a simple slot but bottom of slot is curved and sides are undercut. Tool has a dovetail)
SWT
B.N.A.E aka French Recess.

Robert G8RPI.



Re: E4982A Broken hard disk.

QuyetN
 

right.? I will buy another hard drive.? Because I don't have the program of E4982A, I need a ghost copy of another machine.? Bad hard drive.