Adding Option 1EA 'high output power' to 8648C sig gen?
I have just picked up a (hopefully working) 8648C sig gen for a good price, to be delivered in a week or so.
I'm interested in adding the 1EA high output power option.
Does anyone know if this is possible to add or DIY, or know what the option actually entails hardware/firmware wise?
Often I will just make my own version of the options for my gear from the schematics and PCB layouts, but it seems this information was never released for this instrument...
Thanks!
Jared
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Re: Adding EFC to an 8662A
Not in the sense of rewriting all the original basic software in its entirety. I'm only interested in the PLL mode of measurement and am particularly interested in doing cross correlation measurements with a pair of 11848s and separate references to reduce the influence of reference source noise.? This needs a 2ch DSA (like the 3563) and the original HP software was very tightly bound to the 3561 (given how different the HPIB command sets are for these DSAs it is hard somertimes to believe the same company made them).? But obviously the first step in this is to do 1ch standard measurements, so I have C++ software that replicates most of the functions of the PLL measuring mode + calibration + PLL characterisation.
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Re: Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
That would produce a shielded dual banana plug cable but it wouldn't be balanced.
A balanced shielded cable has 2 twisted signal wires and a shield wire or outer braid.
Or get a Pomona Electronics female BNC to dual banana plug adapter and use a BNC? cable.? ? ? ? Jim Ford
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 11/25/23 10:29 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
Pamona makes what you are looking for.
Available in digikey or mouser for $55 for most lengths.
On Sun, Nov 26, 2023, 2:45?PM Bruce < bruce@...> wrote: I am looking for up to 3 dual banana plug BALANCED - SHIELDED test cables - these cables would have two banana plugs cast in plastic on each end and a third connection (shield) on one end.? I would purchase or trade for them.? Please let me know if anyone has any they are willing to part with.
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Re: Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
Or get a Pomona Electronics female BNC to dual banana plug adapter and use a BNC? cable.? ? ? ? Jim Ford
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Tom Haynes <tomhaynes.net@...> Date: 11/25/23 10:29 PM (GMT-08:00) Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
Pamona makes what you are looking for.
Available in digikey or mouser for $55 for most lengths.
On Sun, Nov 26, 2023, 2:45?PM Bruce < bruce@...> wrote: I am looking for up to 3 dual banana plug BALANCED - SHIELDED test cables - these cables would have two banana plugs cast in plastic on each end and a third connection (shield) on one end.? I would purchase or trade for them.? Please let me know if anyone has any they are willing to part with.
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Re: Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Pamona makes what you are looking for.
Available in digikey or mouser for $55 for most lengths.
On Sun, Nov 26, 2023, 2:45?PM Bruce < bruce@...> wrote: I am looking for up to 3 dual banana plug BALANCED - SHIELDED test cables - these cables would have two banana plugs cast in plastic on each end and a third connection (shield) on one end.? I would purchase or trade for them.? Please let me know if anyone has any they are willing to part with.
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Re: Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
Pamona makes what you are looking for.
Available in digikey or mouser for $55 for most lengths.
On Sun, Nov 26, 2023, 2:45?PM Bruce < bruce@...> wrote: I am looking for up to 3 dual banana plug BALANCED - SHIELDED test cables - these cables would have two banana plugs cast in plastic on each end and a third connection (shield) on one end.? I would purchase or trade for them.? Please let me know if anyone has any they are willing to part with.
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Looking for Dual Banana Plug test cables
I am looking for up to 3 dual banana plug BALANCED - SHIELDED test cables - these cables would have two banana plugs cast in plastic on each end and a third connection (shield) on one end.? I would purchase or trade for them.? Please let me know if anyone has any they are willing to part with.
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Re: Gauging interest in custom made Canare coax cables?
> Here's some rough prices to give a ballpark idea.
Thanks. Reasonable, but I can get decent amphenol connectors for similar / less (when counting shipping), will probably pass. I am familiar with Canare, I like their L-4E6S for audio stuff, used to be able to get it cheap at a local shop. Wasn't aware they made coax however, good to know (although probably nearly unobtainium here in NA).
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Re: HP8640B rectifier board
The later HP designed rectifier board for the 8640, complete with burnt diodes.
David
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Re: HP XY Display PSU Query
Ah! Outstanding. Thank you for the link - that will definitely change this project away ?from having only marginal chance of success!
tony
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Re: HP XY Display PSU Query
+250V supply is current limited to 270mA.? +15V uses an LM317T without a pass transistor so maxes out around 1.5A -15 uses 79UG1C without pass transistor so maxes out around 1A.? +20 uses a 21.5V zener driving a 70W Darlington as pass transistor which equates to about 3.25A but probably much less.
Ah now I understand. You are in luck! Keysight has the operation and service manual for the 1336S which is the 1336P power supply plus a 1336A display. It has a full parts list, schematics and diagrams for both 1336A and S.
The power pin out is: (Power connector pin/A1J3 motherboard pin) Pin 1/5 +250VDC Pin 2/3 +20VDC Pin 3/1 +15VDC Pin 4/2 -15VDC Pin 5/NC Chassis GND Pin 6/NC Chassis GND Pin 7/NC Chassis GND Pin 8/4 GND for +20VDC Pin 9/6 GND for +250VDC
I hope you are able to get it going!
I think thy is the problem - there is a mil spec JAE connector in the back with pins for the various supply rails. No idea is any of them are AC. Bw
Tony
Oops, I was mistaken. The 1336S is an external power supply for the 1336A. Does your 1336A have AC and DC inputs?
Sadly there does not seem to be a manual of any kind relating to any of the different versions of the 1336 display - other than the spec sheet from various HP catalogues. Or at least my excavations on the internet have not revealed anything.
And it is not in the Artek manual portfolio either.
Internally they have a very different design to the later 1340A displays that I am more familiar with.
BW
Tony
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Re: HP XY Display PSU Query
Ah now I understand. You are in luck! Keysight has the operation and service manual for the 1336S which is the 1336P power supply plus a 1336A display. It has a full parts list, schematics and diagrams for both 1336A and S.
The power pin out is: (Power connector pin/A1J3 motherboard pin) Pin 1/5 +250VDC Pin 2/3 +20VDC Pin 3/1 +15VDC Pin 4/2 -15VDC Pin 5/NC Chassis GND Pin 6/NC Chassis GND Pin 7/NC Chassis GND Pin 8/4 GND for +20VDC Pin 9/6 GND for +250VDC
I hope you are able to get it going!
I think thy is the problem - there is a mil spec JAE connector in the back with pins for the various supply rails. No idea is any of them are AC. Bw
Tony
Oops, I was mistaken. The 1336S is an external power supply for the 1336A. Does your 1336A have AC and DC inputs?
Sadly there does not seem to be a manual of any kind relating to any of the different versions of the 1336 display - other than the spec sheet from various HP catalogues. Or at least my excavations on the internet have not revealed anything.
And it is not in the Artek manual portfolio either.
Internally they have a very different design to the later 1340A displays that I am more familiar with.
BW
Tony
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Re: HP 5315A With Destroyed Gate Pot and "frozen" Frozen Knob
..you're most kind. I received a stern lecture a long time ago on the Tek group never to leave a thread hanging without a resolution and, being an obsessive, compulsive [former] software developer, I did meticulous notes on my creations, mods, and changes for the developer who came after me which was often.. ..ME! (Had a bad memory even in my youth.) -- William, k6whp -------------------- "Cheer up, things could get worse. So I cheered up and things got worse."
?
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Re: HP 5315A With Destroyed Gate Pot and "frozen" Frozen Knob
Thanks for the detailed report on your fix. ?I know it¡¯s never easy to modify a piece of equipment but your fix looks professional and still uses the original labeling. NICE job.?
steve
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Re: Electrolytic replacement
He's talking about a 5385A...not exactly "vintage"; certainly not to the level that you're talking about here.
-Dave
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On 11/24/23 12:42, Adrian Nicol wrote: Don't know it would work with PCB mount caps, but when I restored a bunch of 1940s-1960s Cossor and Telequipment 'scopes, I found that as modern caps were so much smaller for a given capacitance/voltage than the originals it was easy to split the can (round the circumference, above the 'crimp') and replace the guts with a new cap. Then put a bit of clear heatshrink tube over the whole can to hold the two halves together.
I also pulled the insides out of the the Selenium EHT rectifiers and hid new diodes inside the paxolin tubes.? Looks pretty authentic but without the risk of smoke and smells!
On 24/11/2023 14:39, jslcanuck wrote:
Hayseed Hamfest manufactures a wide variety of can caps. They did some direct
replacement caps for an HP volt meter I restored. Interesting - what a peculiar specialty.? Looks like they mainly do twist-lock tabs with
solder terminals, and a few with pigtails.? No PCB pins.
Jonathan
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
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Re: HP 5315A With Destroyed Gate Pot and "frozen" Frozen Knob
Many thanks to those who helped in this thread. The advice and encouragement (and proffered manual) yielded sanitary unit and a workaday solution for those who have smashed their gate pots to smithereens. Before I proceed with my resolution, I need to ask about the protocol of placing items in the files section. I have a decent manual passed along by another member and I'd like to place it in the appropriate directory along with a more formal documentation of this resolution. The Manual is a .PDF file about 15MB in size and the write-up is about 600KB. If there is no taboo on uploading these, I shall do so.Herein hangs the tale. Firstly, the litany of problems: ?? The gate pot ¨C a 500K Ohm unit with a switch built in to accommodate a ¡°HOLD¡± function was destroyed. ?? The A channel Sensitivity pot knob was unremovable. Some genius had jack-hammered one of the two grub screws in place with one of a different size and threading. No amount of coercion could extricate it thus it fell to Dremel sawing and was destroyed. That left me with two decent knobs and a gate pot with none. (The three knobs on the unit are identical. A spare parts Tek 7700 series plugin knob served as a replacement.) ?? Similarly, the input assembly ¨C where the two input BNCs reside ¨C was secured by four Philips head screws one of which was fused in place. (It is always that way, isn¡¯t it?) This last point was remedied by something I saw on a YouTube video. The Kroil had not arrived yet but bathing in 3-in-1 oil did nothing to budge the screw. Some guy said to take an ordinary rubber band about 4-6 mm wide and push that into the stripped Philips head with the screwdriver and, pressing down with as much weight as is possible, attempt to turn the screw. I was very skeptical of this but, to my amazement, it worked! (Similar success later experienced with another item in my shop!) Anyway, a member of the group offered a remarkably sanitary copy of a .PDF manual with pictures and schematics which I gratefully received so I was off and running! The first step was to examine the spot where the gate pot resided and to figure out how the gating function worked. Below is a shot of the A1 board after the pot was removed. It was very easy to wick out and clean the holes and what was left was a mostly intact gate pot case from which I extracted the necessary dimensions for a replacement. The original was, as stated above, a 500K ohm Bourne potentiometer that six leads to be accommodated by the six holes shown below. The three in the front were for the delay and the three in the rear were for the ¡°HOLD¡± switch. Also below is a schematic excerpt of the gate pot with the hold circuit. Note that the circuit is simplicity in itself. The gate pot¡¯s wiper runs to pin 6 of U2 and controls the voltage. The ¡°HOLD¡± pins grounds pin 7 of U2.? (See the picture below of the connections after the original pot has been removed.) In Searching for a replacement, I located a Bourne 3310 pot on eBay from a nearby seller. (Image of the pot's dimensions below.) Mounting the pot is not a flush fit; you¡¯ll have to do a little lead bending to get the pot seated correctly. I accomplished this by mounting the pot in it¡¯s panel hole, bending the leads backwards at a 45¡ã angle and carefully fitting the panel in place. Then the leads can be pushed into the three front holes and ¨C eventually ¨C soldered in place. If you are a tad squeamish about whether the pot functions correctly or not, just push the leads such that they make contact with the board, fire the unit up, and rotate the shaft. Fully CCW will cause the gate LED to pulse quickly and fully CW will cause a pulse of about 10-15 seconds. ? I added a simple switch to implement the "HOLD" function wired as shown below. Caution should be taken to use a very small switch and wired as shown so as to allow the front panel to be removed later if necessary. It's crude, but I could not resist positioning the switch such that the handle would point towards the "HOLD" panel label when on.? ? Good luck and good hunting! -- William, k6whp -------------------- "Cheer up, things could get worse. So I cheered up and things got worse."  
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Re: Electrolytic replacement
I've done that too. It can be a lot of work and messy but it is nice once it's finished. I didn't opt to do that for my 7603 as I've not had good luck desoldering the cans when they're intact (too much heat sinking) and I opted to cut them at the pins, desolder, and use adapters. Someone had already lifted some pads so I didn't want to contribute to that if I could avoid it.
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Nicol" <Adrian@...>
To: "HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2023 11:42:15 AM
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Electrolytic replacement Don't know it would work with PCB mount caps, but when I restored a
bunch of 1940s-1960s Cossor and Telequipment 'scopes, I found that as
modern caps were so much smaller for a given capacitance/voltage than
the originals it was easy to split the can (round the circumference,
above the 'crimp') and replace the guts with a new cap. Then put a bit
of clear heatshrink tube over the whole can to hold the two halves
together.
I also pulled the insides out of the the Selenium EHT rectifiers and hid
new diodes inside the paxolin tubes.? Looks pretty authentic but without
the risk of smoke and smells!
On 24/11/2023 14:39, jslcanuck wrote:
Hayseed Hamfest manufactures a wide variety of can caps. They did some direct
replacement caps for an HP volt meter I restored. Interesting - what a peculiar specialty. Looks like they mainly do twist-lock
tabs with
solder terminals, and a few with pigtails. No PCB pins.
Jonathan
|
Re: HP XY Display PSU Query
I think thy is the problem - there is a mil spec JAE connector in the back with pins for the various supply rails. No idea is any of them are AC. Bw
Tony
Oops, I was mistaken. The 1336S is an external power supply for the 1336A. Does your 1336A have AC and DC inputs?
Sadly there does not seem to be a manual of any kind relating to any of the different versions of the 1336 display - other than the spec sheet from various HP catalogues. Or at least my excavations on the internet have not revealed anything.
And it is not in the Artek manual portfolio either.
Internally they have a very different design to the later 1340A displays that I am more familiar with.
BW
Tony
|
Re: Electrolytic replacement
Don't know it would work with PCB mount caps, but when I restored a bunch of 1940s-1960s Cossor and Telequipment 'scopes, I found that as modern caps were so much smaller for a given capacitance/voltage than the originals it was easy to split the can (round the circumference, above the 'crimp') and replace the guts with a new cap. Then put a bit of clear heatshrink tube over the whole can to hold the two halves together.
I also pulled the insides out of the the Selenium EHT rectifiers and hid new diodes inside the paxolin tubes.? Looks pretty authentic but without the risk of smoke and smells!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 24/11/2023 14:39, jslcanuck wrote: Hayseed Hamfest manufactures a wide variety of can caps. They did some direct
replacement caps for an HP volt meter I restored. Interesting - what a peculiar specialty. Looks like they mainly do twist-lock tabs with
solder terminals, and a few with pigtails. No PCB pins.
Jonathan
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Re: Electrolytic replacement
Look in the files section here under ¡°Gerber files¡± I uploaded all of my gerbers for our various snap-in to pin adapters. Two of them are measured copies of HP¡¯s adapter plates
steve
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Jared Cabot
fenugrec
factory
k6whp
Dave McGuire