Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
OK, Got it out and the good news is it is red and rows are common anode. So Positive to select row and 0V to select column.  Yes, I have quite a collection of displays :-). While not shown I have a second of the 3 digit displays. The are ex equipment but were socketed.
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
If you want a 32 bit processor, you might want to check the ST Micro Nucleo boards.? Some of them have Arduino format pin connectors (at 3.3 volts, however).? Some processor pins are 5.0 volt tolerant, but no pin outputs more than 3.3 volts.
the software tools supplied by ST are free, and have no debugging/size limitations.? The ST Nucleo boards have a built in debugging interface as well.
Harvey
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On 11/13/2023 8:32 AM, Ed Marciniak wrote: While some of the earlier and slower arduino boards had 5V TTL, it¡¯s worth looking at some of the newer boards that have hardware serial ports¡if you stick to certain pins. It¡¯s also worth the trouble for buffers/level shifters and using something like a PJRC Teensy, with some examples having numerous IO pins, and a processor that can run up to 600 or 700 MHz (can be run slower as desired). You can still use the familiar arduino IDE. As another option, you can use visual studio with the visual micro plugin for arduino.
If you should use visual micro, you might need to enable a flag for something in its settings, if you¡¯re going to generate C++ code. It¡¯s free. If you want the in circuit debugging, a license is only $30.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
Using N-female to UT-141 connectors and soldering 3 pieces of cable to a scrap of PCB for mechanical stability would allow placement of two resistors. Some bits of copper foil could be bent into place as tabs to try and add just the right amount of capacitance if the resistors couldn¡¯t be mounted to a piece of PCB with strategically chosen height.
if the UT141 were copper core silver plated instead of plated steel, the center conductor could be slotted or filed flat on one side before filing to length to give something to hold a resistor.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
The resistors are likely going to have an alumina substrate with a dielectric constant of about 9.8. You¡¯re gaps will need to actually increase at the resistors to reduce the capacitance to maintain 50 ohms.
You¡¯ll also want to place your resistors closer to Y junction, in fact nearly at it, if possible.
With a back side ground plane, and the specified board thickness, you¡¯re going to have a hybrid mode with some microstrip and some coplanar waveguide modes each carrying current.
You probably don¡¯t need dozens of vias to the ground side, but at least should have some strategic ones near the Y junction, after the resistors, and maybe at midpoints and connector.
Sonnet has a free version of their simulator that should do enough to simulate this. You¡¯re probably going to have to do some tricks because you¡¯ll have to insert two non-ideal components, or simulate the resistors with a second metal layer and
a dielectric brick, or exceed four ports. I don¡¯t recall the exact license limitations but you may have to work around or more of them.
On a final note, the lower dielectric constant substrate is a bigger problem with the lower Er of RO4003.
Stripline layout with pockets milled for the resistors and center pins shouldn¡¯t be overlooked as another way.
Any way you cut it, the huge N connectors with a plane that abruptly ends with Teflon and center pin presents some challenges.
It might be worth, if you had a VNA, placing a prepared connector adjacent to a sheet of PCB material with one side grounded and an open on the other, and then measuring the same on a through line and trying to figure out the effective capacitance
and inductances by measurement. I don¡¯t (yet) have N adapters for my 8510C or I¡¯d offer to help with that.
I¡¯m interested in making up a satisfactory substitute for an 11667B with 3.5mm connectors. I¡¯ve been passively lurking.
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Don't worry, I haven't given up!
I just need to remember to take one step at a time rather than try to do it all at once and overwhelm myself with the details...
Here is an idea for a PCB design so far. It's a 1.9mm wide, 1oz (35um) thick trace on 1.524mm thick Rogers 4003, a coplanar waveguide with clearance of 0.245mm (except at the 1206 resistors that tightens to 0.18mm to maintain 50ohm impedance)
The center pins of the N connectors is 3mm diameter, so the solder join will hopefully 'funnel down' to the 1.9mm wide PCB pads.
The other pads around the perimeter are for grounding the N connector shells.
I also haven't put vias anywhere yet. Still to do once layout is finalised.
I'll probably just stick 0.1% thin-film resistors in for now, mounted upside down. The pad width has been tightened to the same width as the resistors too, so there will be minimal step. It shouldn't be a problem as they will be hand soldered anyway.
The high frequency RF resistors are much smaller which makes impedance matching much harder with my basic skills..
Let me know how that looks so far... :)
Jared.
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
While some of the earlier and slower arduino boards had 5V TTL, it¡¯s worth looking at some of the newer boards that have hardware serial ports¡if you stick to certain pins. It¡¯s also worth the trouble for buffers/level shifters and using something
like a PJRC Teensy, with some examples having numerous IO pins, and a processor that can run up to 600 or 700 MHz (can be run slower as desired). You can still use the familiar arduino IDE. As another option, you can use visual studio with the visual micro
plugin for arduino.
If you should use visual micro, you might need to enable a flag for something in its settings, if you¡¯re going to generate C++ code. It¡¯s free. If you want the in circuit debugging, a license is only $30.
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
Well, Robert, that sounds promising!
I think I mentioned that I need a row-anode module, or I'd have to do a significant mod. I find CC or CA may be confusing with these models, since they have a common connection for each row (15 horizontal leds) and a common for each column (5 vertical leds). Anyway, rows (7 ea.) are "common" as I guess you meant and must be anodes.
These display's leds light up slightly even in 2k resistor ranges on simple DMM's. Safe and convenient. Red test pin is positive (forgive me if you knew that...).
Thanks for your efforts, Robert!
Raymond
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
The one I have is in the same package etc. I actually have two 3 digit ones and a larger one. I'll pull them out and check colour and if CC or CA.
Robert.
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 02:07 AM, Dave McGuire wrote:
Ooohh! Please post pics of that when it's done.
Nothing fancy, Dave, except it employs a few different HP LED display units that I have waiting for employment: they are the (I think so, at least) HP 5082-7340 single-digit hex displays with the nice dots and rounded edges (HP 5082-7300-like, not seven-segment) for seconds, minutes, hours, date and year, plus one three-digit alphanumeric (5082-7100 or 1990-0476), showing the month in three alpha characters (Jan, Feb, Mar, etc.). Unfortunately, my '7100 is slightly damaged, which is why I'm looking for a replacement. All this is not at all OT for this group, as I'm sure you'll agree. So, that's 10 ea. '7340 plus one '7100. There are two rows of characters: The top row shows seconds, minutes, and hours, six digits total, the bottom row shows date, month and year. All that in beautiful red LED dots. The two rows are stacked with single-in-line IC connector pins and sockets, holding the two halves together. Case is two small boxes, the bottom one upside down. Currently, things are half-finished. I'll post a few pictures some time in the near future. I find it amazing that these days, a very accurate clock may be built using twelve of these '7300's, one Arduino and one half-a-postage stamp-sized GPS receiving module. No glue logic or the like needed, just a 5V/1A power supply. Actually, I'm using a buck regulator, allowing me to use a wall wart outputting anything from 6V to 12V @ 0.5 to 1A. The 3 * 5 x 7 display has its own Arduino nano plus buffer/drivers for row scanning, character forming and column filling (very old hat, I love it). Using the clock's Arduino would cause visible interruptions in the row scanning, even when using interrupts, because of the amount of processing needed to prepare digits from the GPS' filtered NMEA telegrams, taking DST and UTC deviation into account and the processing needed to prepare column information for the alphanumeric part. Still, it needs some C++ programming since the Arduino compiler produces code which is too slow. I'm pretty sure that optimizing and doing just the row-enabling and -disabling under interrupt would be feasible but I decided to make life a bit easier still... As it is, it's two independent units, communicating a one-hex-digit month number. TBC! Raymond
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
On Mon, Nov 13, 2023 at 08:45 AM, nigel adams wrote:
I think a display like that is used in the HP4275 series impedance analysers...
Unfortunately, no, Nigel. Those are numeric single-digit units in the 4274/75. what I'm looking for is a 3-character alphanumeric unit, containing 3 ea. 5 x 7 matrix layouts: A photograph (not mine): /g/HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment/photo/290883/3703502?p=Name%2C%2C1990%2C50%2C2%2C0%2C0Thanks for helping though. Raymond
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
I think a display like that is used in the HP4275 series impedance analysers...
Hope it helps
Regards
Nigel
Sent from my iPad by banging a nail into a piece of wood...
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On 13 Nov 2023, at 01:07, Dave McGuire <mcguire@...> wrote:
On November 12, 2023 4:46:30 PM "Raymond Domp Frank" <hewpatek@...> wrote:
Hi Robert,
Thanks for responding!
It would be great news if your module(s) could solve my problem.
ISTR that HP 1990-numbers are internal references for HP 5082 numbers.
I have placed a photo (not mine, picked from the 'net) of the module I'm looking for.
I'm looking for a functionally identical module with red leds and anodes on rows. Depending on your price, I'm willing to take a chance. I can measure and check colour and connections easily.
This is for a DIY clock that I'm building, using different vintage display modules, so I can modify things if necessary, except outline dimensions and colour to some degree. Ooohh! Please post pics of that when it's done.
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
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Re: Readings from 436A power meter using 82357B USB-GPIB?
I also have a HP436A and try to make the GPIB work. After search on several websites, I could not find any example, therefore, I spent two days and figured out this problem. Here is the right GPIB command sequence :
?
Interactive Control
Copyright 2022 National Instruments Corporation
All rights reserved.
?
Type 'help' for help or 'q' to quit.
?
GPIB0: ibdev
??? enter board index: 0
??? enter primary address: 13
??? enter secondary address: 0
??? enter timeout: 10
??? enter 'EOI on last byte' flag: 1
??? enter end-of-string mode/byte: 10
?
ud0: ibclr? <----------- use this to turn on remote LED, required.
[0100]?? ( cmpl )
?
ud0: ibwrt "9A+I"? <---- this means: set RF power unit to be W
[0100]?? ( cmpl )
count:? 4
?
ud0: ibrd 14????? <-----read 14 byte data as ASCII
[0100]?? ( cmpl )
count:? 14
50? 4c? 41? 20? 30? 39? 39? 30????????? P L A?? 0 9 9 0
45? 2d? 30? 39? 0d? 0a????????????????? E - 0 9 . .
?
Details about the "PLA" can be found on page 3-19, HP436A operating and service manual.
?
?
I use a NI GPIB-USB-HS adaptor, run on windows 10, with NI VISA (2022) installed.
With NI MAX scanning, I found the address=13 for HP436A.
With NI MAX interactive control, I tried above sequence.
When you implement above sequence with C or python, the timing is important. Between ibclr to ibwrt, it needs about 0.3s, between ibwrt and ibrd, it needs at least 1.2s? (1.2s is the worst case according to the manual).
Lin
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
On November 12, 2023 4:46:30 PM "Raymond Domp Frank" <hewpatek@...> wrote: Hi Robert,
Thanks for responding!
It would be great news if your module(s) could solve my problem.
ISTR that HP 1990-numbers are internal references for HP 5082 numbers.
I have placed a photo (not mine, picked from the 'net) of the module I'm looking for.
I'm looking for a functionally identical module with red leds and anodes on rows. Depending on your price, I'm willing to take a chance. I can measure and check colour and connections easily.
This is for a DIY clock that I'm building, using different vintage display modules, so I can modify things if necessary, except outline dimensions and colour to some degree. Ooohh! Please post pics of that when it's done. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
On Sun, Nov 12, 2023 at 10:46 PM, Raymond Domp Frank wrote:
I have placed a photo (not mine, picked from the 'net) of the module I'm looking for.
I'm looking for a functionally identical module with red leds and anodes on rows. Depending on your price, I'm willing to take a chance. I can measure and check colour and connections easily.
Sorry, forgot the link: /g/HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment/photo/290883/3703502?p=Name%2C%2C1990%2C50%2C2%2C0%2C0
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
Hi Robert,
Thanks for responding!
It would be great news if your module(s) could solve my problem.
ISTR that HP 1990-numbers are internal references for HP 5082 numbers.
I have placed a photo (not mine, picked from the 'net) of the module I'm looking for.
I'm looking for a functionally identical module with red leds and anodes on rows. Depending on your price, I'm willing to take a chance. I can measure and check colour and connections easily.
This is for a DIY clock that I'm building, using different vintage display modules, so I can modify things if necessary, except outline dimensions and colour to some degree.
Raymond
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Re: Looking for HP alphanumeric display module 3 digits: 5082-7100 or 1990-0476
Hi,
I have a couple of 3 digit modules 1990-0473 which looks similar but I can't find a cross reference to commercial part number or a datasheet for it.
Robert.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
Even simulation is a great tool or don¡¯t replaces the experience. You don¡¯t need to program a script to design a great splitter or any other component . Software tools requires experience to design ?(create a realistic model ) and understand results.? Ing. Patricio A. GrecoTaller Aeron¨¢utico de Reparaci¨®n 1B-349Organizaci¨®n de Mantenimiento Aeron¨¢utico de la Defensa OMAD-001Gral. Mart¨ªn Rodr¨ªguez 2159San Miguel (1663)Buenos AiresT:?+5411-4455-2557F:?+5411-4032-0072
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On 12 Nov 2023, at 14:38, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
? You speak Japanese.? Computer programming is just another language.HarveyOn 11/12/2023 11:22 AM, Jared Cabot via groups.io wrote:I won't even be able to begin to know how to use any simulation software, especially needing scripts etc...
I'm nothing more than a highschool dropout domestic electrician who dabbled in BASIC 30 years ago and some Windows batch script stuff a while ago, my simulation abilities basically end with something like the 'Saturn PCB Toolkit'
For example, I'm still figuring out the 'real world' differences of microstrip and coplanar waveguide...
I always seem to start a project thinking 'it's just a few parts, it can't be /that/ difficult' then soon realising I'm staring into the bottomless pit. Something something not knowing enough to know what I don't know...haha
Maybe I'll just throw some axial resistors in a box and call it good enough. I haven't even figured out how to measure the performance of the thing on my VNA (Or even how to use a VNA) yet.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
Don't worry, I haven't given up!
I just need to remember to take one step at a time rather than try to do it all at once and overwhelm myself with the details...
Here is an idea for a PCB design so far. It's a 1.9mm wide, 1oz (35um) thick trace on 1.524mm thick Rogers 4003, a coplanar waveguide with clearance of 0.245mm (except at the 1206 resistors that tightens to 0.18mm to maintain 50ohm impedance)
The center pins of the N connectors is 3mm diameter, so the solder join will hopefully 'funnel down' to the 1.9mm wide PCB pads.
The other pads around the perimeter are for grounding the N connector shells.
I also haven't put vias anywhere yet. Still to do once layout is finalised.
I'll probably just stick 0.1% thin-film resistors in for now, mounted upside down. The pad width has been tightened to the same width as the resistors too, so there will be minimal step. It shouldn't be a problem as they will be hand soldered anyway.
The high frequency RF resistors are much smaller which makes impedance matching much harder with my basic skills..
Let me know how that looks so far... :)
Jared.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
You speak Japanese.? Computer programming is just another language.
Harvey
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On 11/12/2023 11:22 AM, Jared Cabot via groups.io wrote: I won't even be able to begin to know how to use any simulation software, especially needing scripts etc...
I'm nothing more than a highschool dropout domestic electrician who dabbled in BASIC 30 years ago and some Windows batch script stuff a while ago, my simulation abilities basically end with something like the 'Saturn PCB Toolkit'
For example, I'm still figuring out the 'real world' differences of microstrip and coplanar waveguide...
I always seem to start a project thinking 'it's just a few parts, it can't be /that/ difficult' then soon realising I'm staring into the bottomless pit. Something something not knowing enough to know what I don't know...haha
Maybe I'll just throw some axial resistors in a box and call it good enough. I haven't even figured out how to measure the performance of the thing on my VNA (Or even how to use a VNA) yet.
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
"Jared Cabot via groups.io" <jaredcabot@...> writes: I won't even be able to begin to know how to use any simulation software, especially needing scripts etc...
I'm nothing more than a highschool dropout domestic electrician who dabbled in BASIC 30 years ago and some Windows batch script stuff a while ago, my simulation abilities basically end with something like the 'Saturn PCB Toolkit'
For example, I'm still figuring out the 'real world' differences of microstrip and coplanar waveguide... Not a good excuse :) Just take things one step at a time - no need to learn everything at once. But make sure you're always learning (don't let yourself stagnate) and before you know it you'll be using EM software. And keep an open mind - most of this stuff isn't all that hard, but it does take some time to build up the pre-requisite skills. I always seem to start a project thinking 'it's just a few parts, it can't be that difficult' then soon realising I'm staring into the bottomless pit. Something something not knowing enough to know what I don't know...haha
Maybe I'll just throw some axial resistors in a box and call it good enough. I haven't even figured out how to measure the performance of the thing on my VNA (Or even how to use a VNA) yet. In my experience, very few "simple" projects end up being simple. But you also don't need a perfect plan before you start building. Just choose something, build it, and measure it. Then put some careful thought into why you're getting the performance you're getting and, based on that, how you can improve in the next iteration. You'll learn a lot doing this (including how to use your VNA). Good luck and keep us posted! Matt
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Re: DIY 11667A Power Splitter, resistor placement?
On 11/12/23 09:22, Jared Cabot via groups.io wrote: I won't even be able to begin to know how to use any simulation software, especially needing scripts etc... Even if you haven't done as much school, you seem plenty smart to do this kind of thing, and we'll help. I've been wanting to turn on openEMS and give it a whirl. Maybe I'll try entering in openEMS the shapes in alan Victor's suggestion of a super tight assembly of connectors and SMD resistors with *NO* pcb. How much effort will that user manual reading and data entry be? After testing the "solder-chunk" splitter assembly method, then could try adding copper sheet all around it soldered on so it would not vary when close to different lab bench top materials... I'm interested to see how openEMS does with this kind of thing.
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Dave McGuire
Patricio A. Greco
Jared Cabot