I agree with taking it out of the vehicle and putting it on the bench, with the control head attached using the short cable. 1st thing, then, is to do a full reset. Try with mic connected and disconnected. The DTMF mic, if I recall, has the ability to power the radio on and off. Nothing else plugged into the radio. Please keep us posted.?

Do you have cables plugged in for a tuner or data in thge rear? I recall having a aimilar issue and it being related to that.

I would look at all things power supply-related. ...but it's odd this cropped up when you turned your engine off and now won't go away. How is your radio wired to your battery? Should be a straight run both pos and neg but in a modern vehicle you should not connect the neg directly to the battery because of battery monitoring modules? - rather the neg should be connected as close to the battery as possble but not directly. Both pos and neg should be fused. If you're using the automotive AGC blade-type fuses - these frequently become oxidized and need to be cleaned or replaced - definitely check those if you use them as they can present an under-voltage condition.

I would also check your remote head cable first. Can you mount the head on the radio and use the short head cable for that purpose - to eliminate the long cable as a possible cause? I see you already did the full reset.

On 2021-06-04 12:22, kenny TURKEI wrote:

Now I have carefully checked, the swr watt meter is connected and the
50 ohm dummy is plugged in.

Hullo Kenny,

I was surprised on a re-read to note the presence of a dummy load. Some of the symptoms were suggesting an antenna problem.

Is the dummy load competent? Is it capable of the power level you're exposing it to?

If not I'd suggest finding one that is, or lowering the power out to what the load will handle.

Frequency: 7150mhz

(This frequency is unlikely. I take it to mean 7.150 MHz, or 7150 kHz.)

Every one of the following instances indicates a problem with the "antenna" (the dummy load, the cable, and/or the power setting.)

1 - FM : when I press the microphone for the first time, I see 100
watts. I let go of the microphone and press it again, then SWR appears
on the screen and there is no output.
2- AM: I press the microphone, SWR text appears on the screen and the
power needle moves slightly and drops 0 watts

The "SWR text" you speak of, is it the "HSWR" icon, top row, a little right of centre?

If that illuminates then there is a problem with the antenna system. (A dummy load as well, it simulates a "perfect" unbalanced load.)

If you look in the manual there are references to what this display indicates.

It's broadly mentioned with antennas, and in more detail with a Yaesu antenna.

A nugget from that is to check if the cable is functional. I don't think at 7 MHz you'd have much of an issue with cable _length_ however first check cable continuity, and quality. If you have another length try that for grins.

** No power out, in the presence of HSWR on the screen pretty clearly communicates that the antenna system is no good and the radio control circuit is folding back, throttling, shutting down the power out level to help the PA (final amplifier) survive.

3- CW: I press the microphone, SWR text appears on the screen and the
power needle moves slightly and drops 0 watts

You need a key, or a cable/piece of wire to short the conductors. Otherwise nothing out from the TX.

4- LSB: I press the microphone, SWR text appears on the screen and the
power needle moves slightly and drops 0 watts
5- USB: I press the microphone, SWR text appears on the screen and the
power needle moves slightly and drops 0 watts

No audio in, no power out.
----
In general:

If your external SWR meter is designed for the HF band, then it will show you what the VSWR is, or _how_ high it is. That the HSWR warning icon is trying to tell you it's high. It apparently displays if the VSWR is determined to be over 3:1.

At a distance I'd:

- check the cable for continuity (end to end, short across), for quality (50 Ohms, not RG-174). A continuity checks will tell one if a connector is attached, or not. Maybe.
- check the dummy load for power dissipation capability, if not nominally capable of 100 W then I'd replace it (borrow) or lower the power out.
- use AM to briefly check for power out/SWR on the external meter (On SSB you may also ID, then whistle or go AHHH.)
- when in doubt read the manual. The "softcopy" (PDF) is nice as one may do word searches. Don't expect to find the perfect search term the first time. Try others, or shorten it. Try to find unique ones for the issue at hand.

73, John
--
J.D. Erskine
VA7OTC/VE0JD
Victoria, BC

Sounds strange.
First I think I would do a full reset and try everything again.
A couple of points. AM and FM will show power with no modulation. CW will need the key down and SSB (USB or LSB) will need to be modulated to show power out.
I generally check radios on my bench with the service monitor where it will out put a signal to the radio and also measure power out.
I don't know what you mean by shows SWR text.?
I have to work from memory (which is poor by the way) as I don't currently have an FT857 here it look at. (I sold my last one a week or so age).
The SWR should be selected from the meter options and the same rising band on the left will indicate SWR, power or alc depending on selection.
Reset the radio and then do you have a power meter or SWR bridge to put inline to the 50 ohm dummy load?
Make sure that you do or do not have power out and what modes. Remember keying with the mike PTT on CW, USB or LSB will have no power out.
AM and FM will have power out (assuming you are not modulating by speaking into it).
So far I cannot ascertain what your symptoms are with any confidence.
Sorry I can't be of more help at this point.

J.D.
KE4MD

One of the first things you have to do is make sure what you are seeing and interpret that correctly.

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??? Tanks in advance

??? ??? Randy KB0NAV

A few questions.
1 did you answer that you had no output on ssb, but OK on CW,FM, and AM?
The next stage after the crystal filter is for SSB only as I remember.
I believe Q1089 is the buffer that feeds the mixer for CW and SSB.
I would trace the signal with an oscilloscope and see where fails.?
I looked at the input and output of the crystal filter and followed it through the switching diodes to the input of the buffer and had less out than went in. This (IIRC) is a 30 dB amplifier and should have significant gain. This is where the CW is injected on transmit (again IIRC)
1st IF Circuit/1st Mixer Circuit The modulated SSB/AM signal is applied to the 2nd Mixer Q1082 (SA602AD), which produces the 68.33 MHz 2nd IF signal utilizing the 2nd local signal (68.875 MHz). The 2nd IF signal is fed through the 2ndIF filter XF1004 which strips away unwanted mixer products, then passes through the 2nd IF amplifier Q1061 (BB304CDW) to the double balanced mixer D1034 (HSB88WS) which produces the transmit frequency by applying the local signal (68.430- 538.330 MHz) from the PLL Unit. The transmit signal is passed through a low-pass filter (1.8-29.7 MHz), a highpass filter (50-54 MHz), a band-pass filter (144-146 MHz), or a band-pass filter (430-450 MHz) which consists of various inductors and capacitors. The filtered transmit signal is amplified by Q1017 (2SC3357), Q1011 (2SK2596), Q1006/Q1007 (2SK2973), and Q1001/ Q1002 (2SK2975), and is applied to the Power Amplifier: Q3022/Q3023 (2SC5125: HF/50 MHz) or Q3024 (2SC3102: 144/430 MHz).
SSB Modulator Circuit The output (audio signal) from the electronic volume control IC is passed through audio amplifier Q1118 (NJM2902V) to the balanced modulator IC Q1071 (SA602AD) which produces a Double Sideband (DSB) signal by applying the carrier signal from the CAR-DDS IC Q1062 (AD9835BRU). The DSB modulated signal (455 kHz) is fed to ceramic filter CF1004 (or the optional mechanical filter) which strips residual carrier and the undesired sideband, resulting in a Single Sideband (SSB) signal

It has been a while since I have worked on one of these and I have a short memory at my age.

Hi 11Bravo,

I have an 857D, SignaLink USB, an HP Pavilion laptop with Windows 10, Winlink Express 1.5.33.0, and SoundModem by UZ7HO.
In the 857D, look at following Menu items:
My settings:
36 - Default
37 - Default
38 - RTTY-L
39 - Default
40 - Default
71 - Default
72 - 80
73 - Default

(I have both a SignaLink USB and a KCP-3Plus and connect using more than one radio.)

In Winlink Express go into "Settings", "Winlink Express Setup..." and enter at least your call sign and a password.

I have attached a copy of my settings: open a Packet WinLink session, go into "Settings", make your updates and click Update.

Obviously, set your radio to a local packet server frequency, make sure the Baud rate matches across all entries.

Good luck,
Terry, n0ve

There is another HUGE advantage to using an external sound card for software modem functions. The majority of the operating system software is unaware of it's existence and will not try to use it for some default function thus downing the software modem's connection to the interface.

Having a back up headset jack splitter is still a good idea though. 2 is indeed 1 and 1 really is None. That instructive mantra is meant to impress upon the uninitiated that having 2 ways of doing each critical task means that a failure in a single piece of equipment should not cause a functional failure.

--
Tom Horne W3TDH

The modern signalinks have the sound card built-in and your hookup via a usb cable.?

I don't know of any real specific settings for the 857D other than watching the ALC meter and setting the audio levels on the computer to barely move. Im thinking its more of a software issue.

What software are you using? In the software so you have the signalik/ usb sound card selected as your input and output audio interface? Are you using a signalink usb or old style? Are you connecting to the 857D via the data cable or the mic jack? Did you set the signalink internal jumpers as needed for 857D?

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Maybe here:

I have not any signalink interface so I can't tell much any if you have a laptop, you need to have one entry AND one exit for audio, something many laptop don't provide, so you need to buy a USB soundcard, something like this is well use in the community:

Hope it will help

Can anyone give me a walkthrough of settings on the 857d for digital modes? Gonna need to setup signalink to lenovo laptop as well. I have tried solo and failed.

On Tue, 1 Jun 2021, Charles Jessee wrote:

I sold my FT-857 a while back but just found my ZBM2 BlueCAT dongle that works with RepeaterBook. I don't know if there are other options today, but at the time it was only available from a UK firm with a high shipping cost (~$100 delivered to the US).

still only available from the UK firm, listed price 60+18 pounds, don't know the conversion rate (they are out of stock), are you looking to sell it? if so, how much? (shipping to California)

David Lang
AG6AH

Might it be of any utility today?

Bret/N4SRN