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BEAUTIFUL! ? I await remarks from the MASTER. ?Dennis?
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Hi all,
I just purchased my first lathe, a Lot 3 No. 707. I’m told the previous owner had it for at least forty years and it has been kept in excellent condition with one pretty big exception. Part of the cross slide/compound assembly cracked and was repaired in a pretty rough way (pics below).
The Dalton write up on lathes.co.ok says that only a handful of lot 3’s are known. Is that still true, does that mean I have no chance of finding a replacement? Is the lot 4 part the same? Advice welcome.
Aside from that it’s a beauty, but I haven’t seen any pictures of a Dalton that looks quite like mine. There are others with the motor and counter shaft mounted overhead, but none that I’ve seen with the supports in front.
mid like to learn whatever I can about how to evaluate its health and keep it in good condition.
Many thanks
Jason
<5C6AE6BE-FAF0-481E-9475-467A89EEFFCF.jpeg><D2067DE2-508E-41B5-B2B5-74C67FDA239A.jpeg><29728435-EDFA-4928-88B8-F4B0BE9CECC8.jpeg><126F9193-358A-41B0-ADCD-19F6819E87E9.jpeg><AFBE4682-28B5-40C3-A502-757F2C4726A9.jpeg><FC50C312-574D-47D1-8AF8-186BA9BFBA3E.jpeg>
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toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
I just purchased my first lathe, a Lot 3 No. 707. I’m told the previous owner had it for at least forty years and it has been kept in excellent condition with one pretty big exception. Part of the cross slide/compound assembly cracked and was repaired in a pretty rough way (pics below).
The Dalton write up on lathes.co.ok says that only a handful of lot 3’s are known. Is that still true, does that mean I have no chance of finding a replacement? Is the lot 4 part the same? Advice welcome.
Aside from that it’s a beauty, but I haven’t seen any pictures of a Dalton that looks quite like mine. There are others with the motor and counter shaft mounted overhead, but none that I’ve seen with the supports in front.
mid like to learn whatever I can about how to evaluate its health and keep it in good condition.
Many thanks
Jason
     
|
Thanks!
Despite the cracks it does clamp. I have it broken down to clean and look everything over. Once it’s back together I’ll try to take some cuts and see if it’s good enough to use while I look for another compound that fits or that I can modify to work. It’s also possible I could make a new one.
My dad has a Bridgeport but neither of us has tried something like that. Could be a good project if this compound is useable for a while. The problem is we don’t have a surface grinder or a way to grind the dovetails.
My preference would be to simply replace it. Does anyone have a lot 3 compound they’d like to sell? Does a lot 4 fit? If memory serves (I’m not in front of the lathe) the mounting boss on the cross slide is 1.185. If the lot 4 is bigger I could make a bushing.
I also thought about filling it with epoxy with the clamping part in place and making another way of locking it, maybe with a new threaded hole and a grub screw with a brass plug that bears on the mounting boss.?
Options options.
Jason
On Fri, Apr 29, 2022 at 7:17 PM Ryan Waldt < rwaldt@...> wrote: Nice, that looks great.
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Hi Jason.?
?
OK you have a quite unique Dalton.? For one the compound your
showings is actually a Lot 2 style compound and it’s the first time I have seen
one on a serial numbered Lot 3. Especially with a serial number this high.? The
Lot 3 was only in production a short time in late 1913 and early 1914.? ?Also it’s
the first time I have seen a serial number stamped on top of the bed way rather
than on the end like all others we know of.? As to the overhead drive years ago
there was one sold on eBay that had this style of overhead head? bed mounted
drive yours is the second one.? Do me a favor Jason and measure the center height
and also show me a picture of the cross slide were the compound rest. I’m curious
as if this is actually a Lot 2 and not a Lot 3 lathe stamped Lot 3.? The only
way to repair your lathe would be to fabricate a new bottom casting from cast
iron.? One other lathe this has been done to as its bottom casting was also
broken like yours.?? Also the drive between the motor and countershaft would
have originally been a silent chain drive enclosed in a two piece housing.
Dalton never used a belt drive between the motor and the countershaft.? Most of
these style drives have been converted to belt drive. ??I just looked at your
pictures again and your tail stock does look like the later Lot 3 or 4 tail
stock in that it has the tall lower casting were as a Lot two has a very short
casting. The Lot 2 lathe is only a 6 inch swing lathe were as the Lot 3 4 and 5
swing 7 ? inches. ?Also your lathe has the oversized bed feet.? These were used
on lathes that had the overhead drive as the smaller bed foot made the lathe
very tippy and were only used on lathes that had the ceiling or wall mounted
countershaft.
?
Looking at your photos again I see that your lathe has a lot 2
style bed.? That being how the threading lead screw bearings are mounted.? You
also have the pull style forward reveres shifter on the head stock rather than
the one with the bronze spring loaded lever that works horizontally.?? I will
say that your lathe is a most interesting example as it has features that
really should not be on a Lot 3 lathe.? I will look through my photo file and
see if I have any pictures of other Lot 3 lathes so I can compare them with
yours.
?
As to the write up on Tony’s site I provided that for him some
years ago. You see many years ago a lady who was a former wife of one of Hubert
Daltons sisters son named Hubert Dalton Peck provided me with a copy of a
biography that she had written about the history of Hubert Dalton.? Hubert and
his sister immigrated from the UK to the US in 1903 or 1904 don’t remember
exactly. At the time Dalton Mfg failed in the stock market crash of 29 Hubert
owned four other companies.?? He was quite the business man and also inventor
as he had many patents. ??Dennis
?
?
Hi all,
I just purchased my first lathe, a Lot 3 No. 707. I’m told the previous owner
had it for at least forty years and it has been kept in excellent condition
with one pretty big exception. Part of the cross slide/compound assembly
cracked and was repaired in a pretty rough way (pics below).
The Dalton write up on lathes.co.ok says that only a handful of lot 3’s are
known. Is that still true, does that mean I have no chance of finding a
replacement? Is the lot 4 part the same? Advice welcome.
Aside from that it’s a beauty, but I haven’t seen any pictures of a Dalton that
looks quite like mine. There are others with the motor and counter shaft
mounted overhead, but none that I’ve seen with the supports in front.
mid like to learn whatever I can about how to evaluate its health and keep
it in good condition.
Many thanks
Jason
     
|
Jason I just looked and I don’t have any pictures of a lot 3 on
file.? I do have one and will take a look and it.? Also Glen Lingshied also of
Oregon has one and maybe Glen will take a look at your pictures and compare them
with his lathe.? Hey Glen help us outJ? Dennis
?
?
Hi all,
I just purchased my first lathe, a Lot 3 No. 707. I’m told the previous owner
had it for at least forty years and it has been kept in excellent condition
with one pretty big exception. Part of the cross slide/compound assembly
cracked and was repaired in a pretty rough way (pics below).
The Dalton write up on lathes.co.ok says that only a handful of lot 3’s are
known. Is that still true, does that mean I have no chance of finding a
replacement? Is the lot 4 part the same? Advice welcome.
Aside from that it’s a beauty, but I haven’t seen any pictures of a Dalton that
looks quite like mine. There are others with the motor and counter shaft
mounted overhead, but none that I’ve seen with the supports in front.
mid like to learn whatever I can about how to evaluate its health and keep
it in good condition.
Many thanks
Jason
     
|
? ?Jason, ?you do have a viable option to repair your cross slide- likely the only repair you could make. ?You could send the cracked parts to Mike at Cast Iron Repair in Arlington, Washington. ?He will “weld” cast iron filler rod into the cracks in the material - returning it to original condition. ?This is the original, old school method for repairing cast iron, and far superior to modern TIG or brazing methods. ?Using iron filler rod is similar to acetylene ?gas welding in that the welder hand feeds the rod into a molten pool of metal at the point of fracture and remelts and fills the break with the rod, rebuilding the original casting to new condition. However, the process requires extensive pre heat and post heat, plus extended slow cooling. Basically at the end, your part will have uniform crystalline ?structure throughout, same as the original casting when it came out of the mold in 1904. ?You might have to clean up the machined surfaces a bit and scrape or file the repaired area to desired level of flatness. But not to hard to file cast iron.
Mike has been this work for 50 years now and is basically known as a national treasure. ?I’ve used him to repair several cast iron parts and they always come back looking like new.
Here’s his contact info if you wish to explore further:
Mike Cast Iron Repair 19106 22nd ave Nw Arlington WA 98223
+1 (360) 657-7660
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On Apr 30, 2022, at 9:20 AM, Dennis Turk <dennis.turk2@...> wrote:
?
Jason I just looked and I don’t have any pictures of a lot 3 on
file.? I do have one and will take a look and it.? Also Glen Lingshied also of
Oregon has one and maybe Glen will take a look at your pictures and compare them
with his lathe.? Hey Glen help us outJ? Dennis
?
?
Hi all,
I just purchased my first lathe, a Lot 3 No. 707. I’m told the previous owner
had it for at least forty years and it has been kept in excellent condition
with one pretty big exception. Part of the cross slide/compound assembly
cracked and was repaired in a pretty rough way (pics below).
The Dalton write up on lathes.co.ok says that only a handful of lot 3’s are
known. Is that still true, does that mean I have no chance of finding a
replacement? Is the lot 4 part the same? Advice welcome.
Aside from that it’s a beauty, but I haven’t seen any pictures of a Dalton that
looks quite like mine. There are others with the motor and counter shaft
mounted overhead, but none that I’ve seen with the supports in front.
mid like to learn whatever I can about how to evaluate its health and keep
it in good condition.
Many thanks
Jason
     
|
On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 09:20 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Also Glen Lingshied also of Oregon has one and maybe Glen will take a look at your pictures and compare them with his lathe.? Hey Glen help us outJ? Dennis
So very good to see you on here Dennis! Dan and I were wondering where you have been the other day. The lathe I have is a lot 4, as common as rocks (kidding, but relative to this one). ?If I were Jason I'd buy some durabar or whatever ductile continuous cast iron his steel seller can provide, and make a new compound base and compound from that. No need for a surface grinder, just get the dovetails close interference and scrape it. Jason, if you do that and don't want to learn to scrape I'd scrape the dovetails to fit for you if you send them to me. You should have enough there to get all the dimensions. ?I highly suggest you start by making a detailed cad drawing first as that has saved many machinists untold millions of scrapped parts as it will help you plan your operations and avoid snap judgements too late as you might have doing it as you go through the machining process without drawings. ?The compound base in the photos has a very unusual compound receptacle hole and or locking system (Third photo from the top) and I can't understand how it works by looking at it. I also don't know how the square? inside corners could be machined from solid, and assume they were cast originally. You could use an EDM sinker I guess, but the cost would be very high short of getting it done by a donation time by someone with a sinker. ?I assume also from the photo that the piece in that hole is loose and is how the base is locked to the cross slide, is that right? If it is perhaps you could save making that part and use it over in the new base. ?Perhaps you could mill the internal internal features where that fits with a rotary table and successively smaller endmills to form the inside corners, tricky work but doable with patience. ?Is the project worthy of all that work? YES! Glen
?
|
Interesting Glen as I have you listed in the registry owning a
Lot 3.? Hmmmmmmm.? I have two nice pieces of cast iron.? One is 80,000 PSI ductile
iron.? Glen the way the lot 2 and this lot 3 compound works is the cross slide
has a spud about 1 ? of an inch in diameter that’s about 5/8 tall.? Dimensions
are just a guess as I am working from my memoir bankJ? I
have seen two different ways that the compound was secured to the spud on the
cross slide.? One as we see in Jason’s lathe and the other where there is a separate
part that is held to the side of the compound casting with two bolts.? This
version clamps the fee piece to the spud.? In Jason’s and others like it there
is a single bolt that draws the internal clamp against the spud on the cross
slide.? The fellow up in Canada that has the third prototype 10 ? inch as well
as Mitch Nash’s that has the only complete 10 ? inch Dalton both have a compound
that is secured with the two bolt clamp plate on the side of the compound top
casting. Will see if I have a picture of Mitch’s. As? you can see Glen? there
is nothing to draw the compound down tight to the cross side like SB and Atlas
did. As there? is no angle to the spud its straight sided.? I can see why
Dalton did not continue with this design.??? I think if I were to make one of
these compounds I would for sure put an upside angle on the spud and a matching
angle on the top casting clamp so it would draw the compound down tight to the
cross slide.? Think you would agree Glen.?? Dennis
?
?
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Show quoted text
On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 09:20 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Also Glen Lingshied also of Oregon has one and maybe Glen will
take a look at your pictures and compare them with his lathe.? Hey Glen
help us outJ? Dennis
So very good to see you on here Dennis! Dan and I were
wondering where you have been the other day. The lathe I have is a lot 4, as common
as rocks (kidding, but relative to this one).
?If I were Jason I'd buy some durabar or whatever ductile continuous cast
iron his steel seller can provide, and make a new compound base and compound
from that. No need for a surface grinder, just get the dovetails close
interference and scrape it. Jason, if you do that and don't want to learn to
scrape I'd scrape the dovetails to fit for you if you send them to me. You
should have enough there to get all the dimensions.
?I highly suggest you start by making a detailed cad drawing first as that
has saved many machinists untold millions of scrapped parts as it will help you
plan your operations and avoid snap judgements too late as you might have doing
it as you go through the machining process without drawings.
?The compound base in the photos has a very unusual compound receptacle
hole and or locking system (Third photo from the top) and I can't understand
how it works by looking at it. I also don't know how the square? inside
corners could be machined from solid, and assume they were cast originally. You
could use an EDM sinker I guess, but the cost would be very high short of
getting it done by a donation time by someone with a sinker.
?I assume also from the photo that the piece in that hole is loose and is
how the base is locked to the cross slide, is that right? If it is perhaps you
could save making that part and use it over in the new base.
?Perhaps you could mill the internal internal features where that fits
with a rotary table and successively smaller endmills to form the inside
corners, tricky work but doable with patience.
?Is the project worthy of all that work? YES!
Glen
?
|
Here is a picture of Jim Vere’s Lot 2 that I did some work on
some years ago.? I did give Jim some cast iron to make a new compound for this
lathe as what he had was just like my lot 2 in that the compound slide castings
were so badly damaged that they were not usable.? I have not heard if Jim ever
got the compound finished. ?
?
Also Jason look at the way the lead screw bearings are bolted to
the bed.? This is tipical Lot 2 design.? The later Lot 3 4 and 5 used
horizontal mounted bolts to secure the bearing to the bed.? The end of the bed
at both ends was very week in the original Lot 2 design and were easily
damaged.? One of my Lot 2 lathes both ends of the bed were broken were the
bearing was bolted on.?? Dennis
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 09:20 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Also Glen Lingshied also of Oregon has one and maybe Glen will take
a look at your pictures and compare them with his lathe.? Hey Glen help us
outJ?
Dennis
So very good to see you on here Dennis! Dan and I were
wondering where you have been the other day. The lathe I have is a lot 4, as
common as rocks (kidding, but relative to this one).
?If I were Jason I'd buy some durabar or whatever ductile continuous cast
iron his steel seller can provide, and make a new compound base and compound
from that. No need for a surface grinder, just get the dovetails close
interference and scrape it. Jason, if you do that and don't want to learn to
scrape I'd scrape the dovetails to fit for you if you send them to me. You
should have enough there to get all the dimensions.
?I highly suggest you start by making a detailed cad drawing first as that
has saved many machinists untold millions of scrapped parts as it will help you
plan your operations and avoid snap judgements too late as you might have doing
it as you go through the machining process without drawings.
?The compound base in the photos has a very unusual compound receptacle
hole and or locking system (Third photo from the top) and I can't understand
how it works by looking at it. I also don't know how the square? inside
corners could be machined from solid, and assume they were cast originally. You
could use an EDM sinker I guess, but the cost would be very high short of
getting it done by a donation time by someone with a sinker.
?I assume also from the photo that the piece in that hole is loose and is
how the base is locked to the cross slide, is that right? If it is perhaps you
could save making that part and use it over in the new base.
?Perhaps you could mill the internal internal features where that fits
with a rotary table and successively smaller endmills to form the inside
corners, tricky work but doable with patience.
?Is the project worthy of all that work? YES!
Glen
?
|
Jason I did find that I? had a couple of pictures of my Lot 3
Jason.? This is serial number 616.? You will see that the cross slide and compound
slide is what we are used to seeing on all other Lot 3 and later lathes.? The
cross slide has a round Tee slot and the compound is secured by two tee head
bolts and nuts.? This what you will see on almost all lathes built. Also note
that this lathe has the threading lead screw bearings mounted as yours is so I
was incorrect in saying that Lot 3 lathes are the same as Lot 4 and 5 lathes.?
The bed on my Lot 3 is almost identical to my Lot 2 lathe. ?Dennis
?
?
Here is a picture of Jim Vere’s Lot 2 that I did some work on
some years ago.? I did give Jim some cast iron to make a new compound for
this lathe as what he had was just like my lot 2 in that the compound slide
castings were so badly damaged that they were not usable.? I have not heard
if Jim ever got the compound finished. ?
?
Also Jason look at the way the lead screw bearings are bolted to
the bed.? This is tipical Lot 2 design.? The later Lot 3 4 and 5 used
horizontal mounted bolts to secure the bearing to the bed.? The end of the
bed at both ends was very week in the original Lot 2 design and were easily
damaged.? One of my Lot 2 lathes both ends of the bed were broken were the
bearing was bolted on.?? Dennis
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 09:20 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Also Glen Lingshied also of Oregon has one and maybe Glen will
take a look at your pictures and compare them with his lathe.? Hey Glen
help us outJ? Dennis
So very good to see you on here Dennis! Dan and I were
wondering where you have been the other day. The lathe I have is a lot 4, as
common as rocks (kidding, but relative to this one).
?If I were Jason I'd buy some durabar or whatever ductile continuous cast
iron his steel seller can provide, and make a new compound base and compound
from that. No need for a surface grinder, just get the dovetails close
interference and scrape it. Jason, if you do that and don't want to learn to
scrape I'd scrape the dovetails to fit for you if you send them to me. You
should have enough there to get all the dimensions.
?I highly suggest you start by making a detailed cad drawing first as that
has saved many machinists untold millions of scrapped parts as it will help you
plan your operations and avoid snap judgements too late as you might have doing
it as you go through the machining process without drawings.
?The compound base in the photos has a very unusual compound receptacle
hole and or locking system (Third photo from the top) and I can't understand
how it works by looking at it. I also don't know how the square? inside
corners could be machined from solid, and assume they were cast originally. You
could use an EDM sinker I guess, but the cost would be very high short of
getting it done by a donation time by someone with a sinker.
?I assume also from the photo that the piece in that hole is loose and is
how the base is locked to the cross slide, is that right? If it is perhaps you
could save making that part and use it over in the new base.
?Perhaps you could mill the internal internal features where that fits
with a rotary table and successively smaller endmills to form the inside
corners, tricky work but doable with patience.
?Is the project worthy of all that work? YES!
Glen
?
|
"I think if I were to make one of these compounds I would for sure put an upside angle on the spud and a matching angle on the top casting clamp so it would draw the compound down tight to the cross slide.? Think you would agree Glen.?? Dennis"
?Funny, I have just the last few days scraping that little Select lathe Dennis, the slideways at the bottom of the carriage, the cross slide and the compound slide. There is not a single slideway surface on that lathe that ever was scraped or even surface ground!
?Anyway, the compound to cross slide connection is pure South Bend, as are many other parts, and using the inverted taper journal with two pins with angled ends pressed against that taper via setscrews.
?I've found this method to be weak, easily forced to turn, for the record. I finally got the scews secured tight enough to enable me to break free the nut holding the Quick change tool holder to the T slot, that was using a 10" long box wrench, so maybe normal turning uses far less torque.
?Of the Select lathe I do have to say, the slideways that were milled were of excellent precision, and I have to wonder if Lin Huan, well known for their tens of thousands of turret lathes, scraped any of?those slide way surfaces.
Glen
|
I have not worked on my Select for a long time Glen.? You may
end up with it one dayJ? As to the lathe it’s a Hodge podge of copied parts.? As you
said the saddle cross slide and compound slide are pure South Bend. ?In fact a
South Bend cross slide fits the Select saddle just fine. ?The apron is a
morfidite. ?Was originally a C style apron that? they made a feeble attempt at
making a power cross slide out of it.? Failed miserably. The quick change gear
box is pure Boxford as is the tail stock.? Head stock is very much like later
model Hercus out of Australia.? The back gears are metric but almost identical
to South Bend.? In fact if you recall my back gears were all laying down in the
bottom of the head stock.? Least all the teeth wereL? I
altered the back gear shaft by turning down from metric to inch and now a SB
back gear fits perfectly.? I also made a new bull gear for it but its South
bend on the outside Select on the inside.? Well it fits the Select spindle.? I
made a bronze gear that is bolted to the original cone V belt pulley on the
spindle and its South Bend.??? Not sure why I went to all this trouble and
should have done like I did the Jet lathe? at the Florence shop and just made
it a serpentine belt two step drive and run it with a inverter.? The end gears
are in fact 18 pitch South bend as is the gear on the end of the spindle.? My
lathe was missing the shifter so I installed a South Bend and it fit perfectly.?
So to say the lathe is a morfidite would be true.? It’s a combination of four
or five different lathes as well as some metric and some inch especially in the
gears. ?I think mine is an early version as the later ones are a bit different.
Not sure I have seen any pictures of yours Glen so not sure if it’s like mine
or not.?? I am still toying with the idea of altering were the threading lead
screw is mounted and use a SB saddle and power feed apron.? I have both in
really nice shape. Oh and the SB saddle fits the Select bed.? Just like the
Boxford Saddle cross slide and compound I installed on a SB lathe that is now
in Michigan. Sure wish our email services would talk to each other.? Sorry guys
I know this is off list but it’s the only way I can email Glen as well as
Bart.? Not sure why I can talk to the Dalton group but not one single person
can I email.? Oh I get lots of spam that’s for sure it all comes through.?
Dennis
?
?
"I think if I were to make one of these compounds I would for
sure put an upside angle on the spud and a matching angle on the top casting
clamp so it would draw the compound down tight to the cross slide.? Think
you would agree Glen.?? Dennis"
?Funny, I have just the last few days scraping that little Select lathe
Dennis, the slideways at the bottom of the carriage, the cross slide and the
compound slide. There is not a single slideway surface on that lathe that ever
was scraped or even surface ground!
?Anyway, the compound to cross slide connection is pure South Bend, as are
many other parts, and using the inverted taper journal with two pins with
angled ends pressed against that taper via setscrews.
?I've found this method to be weak, easily forced to turn, for the record.
I finally got the scews secured tight enough to enable me to break free the nut
holding the Quick change tool holder to the T slot, that was using a 10"
long box wrench, so maybe normal turning uses far less torque.
?Of the Select lathe I do have to say, the slideways that were milled were
of excellent precision, and I have to wonder if Lin Huan, well known for their
tens of thousands of turret lathes, scraped any of?those slide way surfaces.
Glen
|
Wow, thank you for all the background and advice. I’m very excited to have such a unique machine. Much better than the new import I was considering!
Dennis, I’m away for the weekend but when I return I will measure the center height and take some more pictures.
Glen, I would love to try to fabricate a new part and scrape it as you say. Scraping is something I find interesting but I’ve never had a reason to try it. That said I’m going to run it and let it’s performance be my guide. I may?find out it works just fine for what I need, as I imagine the last owner did. This lathe has obviously been well used and maintained and the repair doesn’t look new. It came to me well oiled with a modern quick change tool post, lots of tooling, and covered in chips.
Your point about making a drawing is well taken. How do you measure across the dovetails? I’m guessing you put gauge pins against them and measure across the pins, sort of like how threads are measured?
If I do take on making a new part I will definitely come up with a different way to clamp it than the old part. The hole where the clamping bolt comes through is wallowed out and so close to the surface that it’s cracking there too. Not a good design, although it did last 100+ years.
Thanks again! Jason Rossitto
Jason I did find that I? had a couple of pictures of my Lot 3
Jason.? This is serial number 616.? You will see that the cross slide and compound
slide is what we are used to seeing on all other Lot 3 and later lathes.? The
cross slide has a round Tee slot and the compound is secured by two tee head
bolts and nuts.? This what you will see on almost all lathes built. Also note
that this lathe has the threading lead screw bearings mounted as yours is so I
was incorrect in saying that Lot 3 lathes are the same as Lot 4 and 5 lathes.?
The bed on my Lot 3 is almost identical to my Lot 2 lathe.? Dennis
?
?
Here is a picture of Jim Vere’s Lot 2 that I did some work on
some years ago.? I did give Jim some cast iron to make a new compound for
this lathe as what he had was just like my lot 2 in that the compound slide
castings were so badly damaged that they were not usable.? I have not heard
if Jim ever got the compound finished. ?
?
Also Jason look at the way the lead screw bearings are bolted to
the bed.? This is tipical Lot 2 design.? The later Lot 3 4 and 5 used
horizontal mounted bolts to secure the bearing to the bed.? The end of the
bed at both ends was very week in the original Lot 2 design and were easily
damaged.? One of my Lot 2 lathes both ends of the bed were broken were the
bearing was bolted on.?? Dennis
?
?
On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 09:20 AM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Also Glen Lingshied also of Oregon has one and maybe Glen will
take a look at your pictures and compare them with his lathe.? Hey Glen
help us outJ? Dennis
So very good to see you on here Dennis! Dan and I were
wondering where you have been the other day. The lathe I have is a lot 4, as
common as rocks (kidding, but relative to this one).
?If I were Jason I'd buy some durabar or whatever ductile continuous cast
iron his steel seller can provide, and make a new compound base and compound
from that. No need for a surface grinder, just get the dovetails close
interference and scrape it. Jason, if you do that and don't want to learn to
scrape I'd scrape the dovetails to fit for you if you send them to me. You
should have enough there to get all the dimensions.
?I highly suggest you start by making a detailed cad drawing first as that
has saved many machinists untold millions of scrapped parts as it will help you
plan your operations and avoid snap judgements too late as you might have doing
it as you go through the machining process without drawings.
?The compound base in the photos has a very unusual compound receptacle
hole and or locking system (Third photo from the top) and I can't understand
how it works by looking at it. I also don't know how the square? inside
corners could be machined from solid, and assume they were cast originally. You
could use an EDM sinker I guess, but the cost would be very high short of
getting it done by a donation time by someone with a sinker.
?I assume also from the photo that the piece in that hole is loose and is
how the base is locked to the cross slide, is that right? If it is perhaps you
could save making that part and use it over in the new base.
?Perhaps you could mill the internal internal features where that fits
with a rotary table and successively smaller endmills to form the inside
corners, tricky work but doable with patience.
?Is the project worthy of all that work? YES!
Glen
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On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 12:44 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Sorry guys I know this is off list but it’s the only way I can email Glen as well as Bart.? Not sure why I can talk to the Dalton group but not one single person can I email.
Dennis, Dan and I were talking earlier and he mentioned that he wasn't able to get in touch with you about solving your email problems. If you have his phone number just call him and he'll be glad to help out. If you don't have his number call me and I give it to you. BTW, I know it's a bit scary, but Dan said he downloaded Team Viewer, which allow him to look for problems in your PC while you watch from your end. I have let computer technicians, people I trust, help me that way several times, that way no one has to drive anywhere. I doubt that he would mind driving either, but it's not for me to say he would. ?Dan is always helping people, he's a much better person than I am that way. Glen
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On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 08:34 PM, Jason Rossitto wrote:
I’m guessing you put gauge pins against them and measure across the pins, sort of like how threads are measured?
That's exactly right. For fit you use the dovetail sides on the other mating part, blue them up and scrape to match, but only on the side without the gib which has the set screws, as the gib (Talking only about straight gibs here, the kind adjusted using set screws, not tapered gib types) will conform to the mating dovetail automatically as the set screws are adjusted.
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This should be in a new post but right now I can’t get on the
site.? Need Dan our moderators help.? Dan if you would text me as I need to
know what my pass word is.
?
OK as to chucks for your 1 ? - 12 Dalton spindle.? I have found
that there are some very good buys on chucks for 6 inch? Atlas lathe.? They
come in two sizes.? The older 1 inch 8 for the original plain bearing spindle
and 1 – 10 for the later roller bearing spindles.? Both are usable on the
Dalton.? These chucks if original Atlas are direct mount without a back plate.?
The rear hub is large enough that you can machine a new thread in the chuck to
fit your Dalton spindle.? Now I know this takes another lathe to do so but that’s
why I have always had two lathesJ.? This last week I watched
two almost brand new chucks sell on eBay.? The 4 inch three jaw sold for $110
and the 4 inch four jaw sold for $125 if I remember correctly.? Both were well
worth the price they sold for as they were really in fine shape and came in their
original box with instructions and wrench.? If one of you guys come up with one
of these chucks any machine shop can fit it to your spindle.? Would require for
you to remove your spindle but that’s an easy job on a Dalton.? Just some
information that may help one of you guys find a good three and four jaw chuck
for your lathes.? Remember Dalton provided a 4 inch three jaw and a 5 inch four
jaw with the lathes when purchased new.? I don’t recommend any larger chucks
than these sizes for the Lot 3 4 and 5 lathes.? Now for you guys with a Dalton
Lot 6 or a Dalton 9 that spindle is the 1 7/8 – 8.? This spindle size is the
same as SB used on early heavy ten lathes as well as 1930’s vintage 13 inch.
These chucks show up every now and then and you can also find new back plates
for this size spindle.? Dennis
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[Edited Message Follows]
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On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 12:44 PM, Dennis Turk wrote:
Sorry guys I know this is off list but it’s the only way I
can email Glen as well as Bart.? Not sure why I can talk to the Dalton
group but not one single person can I email.
Dennis, Dan and I were talking earlier and he mentioned that
he wasn't able to get in touch with you about solving your email problems. If
you have his phone number just call him and he'll be glad to help out. If you
don't have his number call me and I give it to you. BTW, I know it's a bit
scary, but Dan said he downloaded Team Viewer, which allow him to look for
problems in your PC while you watch from your end. I have let computer
technicians, people I trust, help me that way several times, that way no one
has to drive anywhere. I doubt that he would mind driving either, but it's not
for me to say he would.
?Dan is always helping people, he's a much better person than I am that
way.
Glen
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Dennis, I've looked around and see no way for me to locate or reset your password. If you've lost it, and failed in attempts to log in, it should prompt you with an option to reset it yourself.
I don't understand how you were able to reply to this thread without being able to log in.
Let me know it the problem persists, ok?
Dan
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Hi Dan?? I have always been able to respond to a post just cant start a new one or even access the site.? Will see if I can sign up as a new member with a new pass word.? I hate pass words as you can tell? ?So when are you and Glen going to come and haul off a bunch of my lathes?? I have to have some thing you really need or just want.? Glen has been after the little Barberstown shaper I have also have a Boynton and Plumber shaper built in 1885.? Sold two Atlas shapers one SB shaper and the Ammco shaper.? Shapers are easy to sell old lathes not so much. ?Dennis. ? Sent from for Windows ?
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From: DanLinsSent: Wednesday, May 4, 2022 6:40 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [DaltonLathes] New to me Lot 3 needs a cross slide part ? Dennis, I've looked around and see no way for me to locate or reset your password. If you've lost it, and failed in attempts to log in, it should prompt you with an option to reset it yourself.
I don't understand how you were able to reply to this thread without being able to log in.
Let me know it the problem persists, ok?
Dan
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You'd need to sign up with a different email address, unless you had me delete you beforehand.?
Glen and I need to come over to visit you soon. Let me fix that stinking email problem....
Dan
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Dennis Turk
glenn brooks
Dan Linscheid
