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New member seeking Dalton Six advice


 

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I am the guy that got the lathe off of Craig's list. I have spent the last few days removing dirt, rust, and worse. Scotch brite pads and elbow grease go a long way. ?I will post more pictures, as soon as the lathe becomes more presentable. I have already become attached to her!



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Hi, newest member here. just found site blah blah blah:)I have a
Dalton Six B-4. Looking for advice as to what to do with it. I use it
all the time it's a nice little machine. I did not think it was as
rare as it seems to be, nor did I realize how old it is. It could use
spindle bearing work though, when run hard I get some tool chatter.
Lets try to describe it based on all the photos in the gallery.
First distinguishing item seems to be the apron. Most of what I see in
the pix have Dalton cast into the front, NOT mine. Mine seems to have
a plain face like Brian Anderson's. Physically I'd say it' probably
closer to Pete's (although his does have the cast logo on its
apron),but with out that stepped hub thing-a-majig off the left side.
I seem to have the same countershaft set-up as Pete's too.

Now the questions.............
Where is the serial number supposed to be?
Are my spindle bearings hopeless as far as repairs?


Dennis Turk
 

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I see your the guy that got the lathe off of Crags list.? Jeff Beck of tools4cheap sent me a heads up on this lathe.
?
Your pictures tell a lot better story than the ones that were on Crags list.
?
OK the serial and lot number are stamped at the very end of the rear bed way tail stock end.? I can till you your lathe is a Lot 4 by the fact that you do not have a key way in your lead screw or do you have the power? feed worm gear in the apron.? You have a post 1922 tails tock but still have one piece back gear guards. This lathe looks like a transactional model between the Lot 4 and Lot 5 lathes.? Most lathes with this tail stock and end door usually have the two piece back gear guards.
?
You also have a solid disc back gear in stead of the earlier model with spokes in the hub.? Your countershaft consists of the cone pulley and the bearing standards from the ceiling mount double friction counter shaft drive that was standard with each lathe.? There would have been to more pulleys with clutches built in.? The two horse shoe items that are on the bearing standards would have held the shift rod that was attached to the clutches. There would have been a wood handle hanging down from this clutch rod for shifting.
?
The fact that your lathe has the two piece end door you machine was shipped with a collet closer.? The two piece door allowed the gears to be changed without removing the closer.? It also allowed you to easily lube the end gears without opening the door.
?
So what is the step v belt pulley for that is attached to the threading lead screw?
?
I am glad someone is salvaging this old girl as she looked really bad in the crags list photos.
?
Good luck and if you need any parts let me know as I may have what you need.
?
Dennis Turk
?
?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] New member seeking Dalton Six advice

Hi, newest member here. just found site blah blah blah:)I have a
Dalton Six B-4. Looking for advice as to what to do with it. I use it
all the time it's a nice little machine. I did not think it was as
rare as it seems to be, nor did I realize how old it is. It could use
spindle bearing work though, when run hard I get some tool chatter.
Lets try to describe it based on all the photos in the gallery.
First distinguishing item seems to be the apron. Most of what I see in
the pix have Dalton cast into the front, NOT mine. Mine seems to have
a plain face like Brian Anderson's. Physically I'd say it' probably
closer to Pete's (although his does have the cast logo on its
apron),but with out that stepped hub thing-a-majig off the left side.
I seem to have the same countershaft set-up as Pete's too.

Now the questions.............
Where is the serial number supposed to be?
Are my spindle bearings hopeless as far as repairs?


 

I see your the guy that got the lathe off of Crags list. Jeff Beck
of tools4cheap sent me a heads up on this lathe.

Dennis Turk
Not me Dennis, you have me confused with someone else's inquiry. I've
had this old girl for over 15 years I think. Plus it is in very good
shape except its in need of fresh spindle bearings. Seems like your
the man I need to ask, from the sites I have visited.


 

I believe the spindle bearings on the B-4 are babbit. If this is
true,there are some things you can do to reduce the clearance. There
is usually a shim pack installed between the parting surfaces of babbit
bearings. If there are shims, it's just a matter of removing the shims
one at a time to get the desired clearance. If there are no shims
installed or if they have all been removed, you could lap the parting
surfaces of the bearing caps to reduce the clearance. (if we are only
talking about a couple thou) This is a common method of reducing
clearances on older car engines with babbit bearings. I would think
that to repour and bore the bearings on one of these lathes would be
too expensive.

Since your screen name is oddball racing, I'll assume that you know
about checking the clearance with plastgage or aluminum foil.

Jim Bonner (B-6 owner)


Dennis Turk
 

开云体育

Hi Jim and all
?
One thing to remember about these bearings is they ware on the bottom as well as the top.? By dressing off the bearing cap and or the bearing shell itself you will be lowering the spindle and getting it out of alignment with the tail stock.? You may find that you will have to shim between the bottom bearing and the casting.? This is standard practice in correcting worn bearing problems.? I have seen many a plain bearing lathes with shim under the bottom bearing.? You will find that you will have to do this.? In doing this you will see that you will have to kiss of just a little from the upper bearing were it sets on top of the lower bearing.?? Now if there is clearance between the bearing shells and I have seen this in a number of Daltons you will probably have to shim the upper bearing in a like amount.
?
Dennis Turk

kl----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

I believe the spindle bearings on the B-4 are babbit. If this is
true,there are some things you can do to reduce the clearance. There
is usually a shim pack installed between the parting surfaces of babbit
bearings. If there are shims, it's just a matter of removing the shims
one at a time to get the desired clearance. If there are no shims
installed or if they have all been removed, you could lap the parting
surfaces of the bearing caps to reduce the clearance. (if we are only
talking about a couple thou) This is a common method of reducing
clearances on older car engines with babbit bearings. I would think
that to repour and bore the bearings on one of these lathes would be
too expensive.

Since your screen name is oddball racing, I'll assume that you know
about checking the clearance with plastgage or aluminum foil.

Jim Bonner (B-6 owner)


 

OK Denny,

Are the babbit bearings in the B-4 in a removeable shell? If so, it
would be easier to reduce the clearnce. For some reason I was thinking
the babbit was just cast against the cast iron and then line bored.
You're right about keeping the spindle centered.... I have shims under
both the upper and lower bronze inserts in my lathe.

good to see more Daltons showing up. Are you going to post some pics
of the taper attachment on Greg's (now yours) B-6?

later, Jim


Dennis Turk
 

开云体育

Hi Jim
?
Yes the babbit bearings are actually molded and used as is? with a little scraping to fit the spindle.? The back side of the bearings you can see the ejector pin marks so I know they came from a mold. Quite actuate I mite add.
?
Turk

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 10:14 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: New member seeking Dalton Six advice

OK Denny,

Are the babbit bearings in the B-4 in a removeable shell? If so, it
would be easier to reduce the clearnce. For some reason I was thinking
the babbit was just cast against the cast iron and then line bored.
You're right about keeping the spindle centered.... I have shims under
both the upper and lower bronze inserts in my lathe.

good to see more Daltons showing up. Are you going to post some pics
of the taper attachment on Greg's (now yours) B-6?

later, Jim