Hi guys,

If you haven't seen it, there is a Dalton B-4 on ebay. It looks to
have a set of change gears and cast iron legs.


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Jim

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Hi, I'm new here. My name is Wes and I am looking at purchasing this
lathe to replace a little mini lathe I currently own. I joined your
site to learn about the lathe prior to bidding. I do have a few
questions if I might.

What should I expect to pay for this lathe?

Would making a new countershaft set-up, or finding one be an issue?
How about mounting one from a different lathe?

What is the size of the MT in the tailstock?

Will 3C collets fit the headstock? Do the collet closers look complete?

Any idiosyncrasies I should know about Dalton lathes that might not be
obvious?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Wes

-Hi Wes

OK to Daltons. The Lot 2 3 4 and 5 lathes were aimed at the home
shop market. Lot 6 and 8 lathes were for business use. The Lot 4
lathe you are talking about was built about 1923 to early 1925. The
lathe is still equipped with the early 96 tooth lead screw gear so I
am going to say the lathe is closer to 1923 than 1925. Later lathes
used a full disc gear rather than one with spokes. The lathes still
shows the NY address on the thread chart but mfg was moved to the Ct
South Beach plant later in 1925. The lathe is missing its chip tray
that went between the legs and the lathe bed feet.

Also the collet closers shown are kind of a hodge podge of home made
items. The original closer draw tub is in the box of accessories
but the red plastic handle is missing and I am betting the threads
in the tube are stripped out. I have two of them that way. Seams
Dalton used very soft material for the closer tube. The others
shown are home brew items. The face plate has been drilled full of
holes also. The three jaw chuck looks well used but it does have
both sets of jaws witch is a plus. Now the Dalton has an odd
spindle thread so there are no after market spindle tools available
for this lathe. The collet nose piece that is in the spindle in one
of the photos is original but they are very soft and usually worn to
a point of inaccuracy. Yes the Dalton used 3C collets.

I can tell the lathe has had some kind of countershaft mounted on
the bed tee slot. I believe this is were the damage happened.
There are signs of something being mounted just behind the head
stock.

Interestingly I have a Ct built Lot 5 lathe with the same dealer tag
as this lathe. Kemp Machine Sales from Baltimore.

One thing to remember about these lathes is they used Babbitt
spindle bearings and if bad you will have to make new ones as
replacements are not available. The spindle is quite soft and pron
to ware. If the lack of lubrication or abrasives have been used on
the lathe there will be damage. That for the most part can be said
for any part on the lathe. If you need a part you are basically on
you own to find one. Some of use will pick up another lathe for
parts as we restore these lathes to useful work.

I guess what I am saying here Wes is for the home shop person that
is just starting out with lathes there are more desirable lathes out
there. I have a lot of experience with the 9 inch SB workshop lathe
and as there were tens of thousands of them built there is a large
parts business for them. Atlas lathes are also a cheap lathe with
lots of parts available but they are just that, cheap and to use one
will drive you nuts. Owe they are better than your mini lathe but
not much just bigger. I had one of the very first mini lathe
imported back in 1987. I will admit they have come a long way since
that lathe.

The Dalton lathe is a fun little lathe to play with and some of the
guys have been very successful in making all kinds of parts with
them. Most of us like the history and the fact that they are quite
rare and as so like restoring them the best we can.

Wes if you're looking for a lathe to use a lot the SB is a better
bet than the Dalton. The SB will cost a little more than this
Dalton will but you will have a better lathe. You see I have
restored a number of them and know them well. The ones I have
restored for other people are in use daily and give good service.

If you have any other questions feel free to email me direct Wes.

Dennis Turk
-- In daltonlathes@..., "gm54210" <bischel@...> wrote:

Hi, I'm new here. My name is Wes and I am looking at purchasing

this

lathe to replace a little mini lathe I currently own. I joined

your

site to learn about the lathe prior to bidding. I do have a few
questions if I might.

What should I expect to pay for this lathe?

Would making a new countershaft set-up, or finding one be an

issue?

How about mounting one from a different lathe?

What is the size of the MT in the tailstock?

Will 3C collets fit the headstock? Do the collet closers look

complete?

Any idiosyncrasies I should know about Dalton lathes that might

not be

obvious?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Wes

Dennis,

Thank you for taking the time to respond so thoroughly to my inquiry.
I checked the lathe out with your tips in mind and was pleasantly
surprised how tight and smooth everything is. I did end up buying the
lathe – but took your advice and bid accordingly so I wouldn't invest
too much. I have been looking for a South Bend or equal for some time
now. As is typical, I have either found cheap and beat, or nice
equipment that is out of my budget. I did break down and get the
minilathe to fill the gap. A lot of the tooling for the mini will
hold over to the Dalton which is nice on the budget.
I know the gentleman I purchased it from. He actually set up a SB 9
and Hardinge mill in our model shops where I used to work (and he
still does). He has a habit of picking up nice equipment. Overall
the lathe is in nice shape – and was reasonably priced all things
considered.
The only thing missing is the drive set-up. I figured I would need to
put one together, but before I spend too much time – does anyone
happen to have a spare?! (Never hurts to ask.) I have a 1hp DC
motor/controller set I am going to use (I liked the variable speed of
the mini), but I also see the need to put together a countershaft with
step pulleys so I can keep the motor speed and torque at appropriate
levels. I may also have to mount it on a bench due to space
constraints - which I hate to do because I like the legs, but it may
also make mounting the drive easier. Any thoughts?

Thank you again for your input. I'm sure there are a bunch of things
I have not thought of yet, so I'm sure I'll be back picking the
group's collective brain.

Wes

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