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Evenin' folks,
Well, at least part of the problem is the chuck jaws. I put a 1 1/2
piece of aluminum in the chuck and tightened it up real good and I can
wiggle it back and forth with my fingers. It's only gripping at the
very rear of the jaws. Same thing after I took it apart and cleaned and
greased the chuck. I'm wondering if I abused this in some way? I know
it wasn't this loose when I did the first test bar and that wasn't all
that long ago. It's not like I'm doing production on the lathe.
So, I was looking at tooling catalogs,and I'm wondering if I should
just get an independent 4 jaw to replace it with. Probably a 4 or maybe
5 inch since the 6 seems a little large for the lathe. Any thoughts
here would be greatly appreciated.
As I understand it, when you bore the jaws, the chuck is only
accurate at that diameter. But I may as well try it since it's pretty
much useless as is. I'll let everyone know how this turns out.
Dave

Hi Dave,

Sorry to hear that you're having problems with your chuck. You are
pretty much wasting your time with a test bar (or anything else) if
you can't hold it rigid. You may want to talk to Dennis before you
try to true up the jaws.... it's probably easier to make them worse
than better. One problem with old chucks is that the jaws get loose
in the T-slots in the body. When they get loose they can rock in the
T-slots. That makes it real hard to true them up.

I saw a pic of a plate that a guy had to hold the jaws while
grinding. It had a center hole and then three holes that went over
each jaw. When he tightened the chuck, the angled portion of the
jaws would clamp down on the corners of the three holes (where they
met the center hole) so that the gripping surface of the jaws was
clear. The idea was to "load" the jaws in the proper position.
Otherwise you would have to open the jaws against a ring... and with
the jaws loose in the T-slots, they wont come out straight.

If you are only going to have one chuck, I vote for the 4 jaw. You
should have one anyway... :-)

good luck, Jim




--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Evenin' folks,
Well, at least part of the problem is the chuck jaws. I put a 1

1/2

piece of aluminum in the chuck and tightened it up real good and I

can

wiggle it back and forth with my fingers. It's only gripping at the
very rear of the jaws. Same thing after I took it apart and cleaned

and

greased the chuck. I'm wondering if I abused this in some way? I

know

it wasn't this loose when I did the first test bar and that wasn't

all

that long ago. It's not like I'm doing production on the lathe.
So, I was looking at tooling catalogs,and I'm wondering if I

should

just get an independent 4 jaw to replace it with. Probably a 4 or

maybe

5 inch since the 6 seems a little large for the lathe. Any thoughts
here would be greatly appreciated.
As I understand it, when you bore the jaws, the chuck is only
accurate at that diameter. But I may as well try it since it's

pretty

much useless as is. I'll let everyone know how this turns out.
Dave

Hi Dave,

I also had similar problems with the well used original 3 jaw union
chuck. My machinist friend ground the jaws like Jim mentioned but
it's accuracy varied depending on the diameter of the piece. We
figured that the scroll was probably worn also. As quick and
convenient as the 3 jaw is, the 4 jaw will be more accurate. I
found a decent (4 jaw) 5 inch Skinner.

Good luck,
Brad

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@> wrote:

Evenin' folks,
Well, at least part of the problem is the chuck jaws. I put a

1

1/2

piece of aluminum in the chuck and tightened it up real good and

I

can

wiggle it back and forth with my fingers. It's only gripping at

the

very rear of the jaws. Same thing after I took it apart and

cleaned

and

greased the chuck. I'm wondering if I abused this in some way? I

know

it wasn't this loose when I did the first test bar and that

wasn't

all

that long ago. It's not like I'm doing production on the lathe.
So, I was looking at tooling catalogs,and I'm wondering if I

should

just get an independent 4 jaw to replace it with. Probably a 4

or

maybe

5 inch since the 6 seems a little large for the lathe. Any

thoughts

here would be greatly appreciated.
As I understand it, when you bore the jaws, the chuck is only
accurate at that diameter. But I may as well try it since it's

pretty

much useless as is. I'll let everyone know how this turns out.
Dave

Jim,
Great information, and saved me a lot of typing. :o)

Besides, I'm sure you would like someone other than Dennis to agree
with you sometimes. :o)

R.T. :D
The Notorious Alabama Dalton Gangster!

Hi All

Well I got the two face plates and that makes three of them I have.
John Gland has asked for one and Dave Kirk has asked for one. Is
there anyone ells that would like the last one???

Also as I put the Dalton thread in these I am doing two other chuck
back plates. On for Ron's face plate and one for Dave Kirks new
chuck.

If anyone is in need of a new back plate for a chuck installation
get it to me and I will put the threads in it. Once I have the
lathe set up to cut the threads it only takes me about a 30 to 40
minuts to cut the thread and the registration shoulder so I would
like to do them all at the same time. This would be the 1 1/4 - 12
Lot 2 3 4 5 spindle thread.

I do have a brand new 1 1/4 - 12 tap but Dalton did not use the
standard thread pattern and as such the adapter plates I have used
this tap on run oversize more than I like. Would be OK for a face
plate or a dog drive plate but I don't like this lose a thread for a
chuck.

I also need to post this to the Dalton email group list I have
because I don't thing we have every one in the gang on the user
group yet.

Take care and let me know if I can help with adapter plates for new
chucks.

Turk

Hay all you guys check out the new link in the link section. Boy is
that one scruffy looking Dalton renagade."-))) Hay I just could not
pass this up Ron. HEHEHEHE

Turk

Hi again

I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate. Bison
makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10
or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I
have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last
one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice cast
iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have
used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread one
for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit
your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate
chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may
not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back
plate on the lathe it is going to be used on.

I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file
site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on
John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks. Here
is the link to that site.



Turk

---

. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.

--Hi John

Not off topic at all.

The stud position is the gear that goes on the shifter handle shaft
on the back of the head stock.

The screw gear goes on the lead screw.

The gear in-between if not specified is anything that fits as it's
only an idler. If a combination gear is called for it's the only
one you have and that I think is a 24 by 72 if I remember right. I
would have to check to be sure. Anyway it's the combination gear
that came with your lathe when new. Some of the threads call for
spacific combination gears so just go by the chart.

Turk
- In daltonlathes@..., spokes10@... wrote:

Gents -- forgive my not logging in properly to the yahoo site --

I'm traveling and don't have the required data with me --

I'm getting ready to cut thread on my Dalton (!) for the first

time -- while it should really be sent to the guru and rebuilt, it's
still much more of a lathe than I am a machinist (more a metal-
munching moon mouse).

In any event, there is a very nice brass plaque on the gear cover

listing all the thread-per-inch gears necessary -- sadly, I have no
idea which position is which -- if any of you would help a newbie
out, I'd be most appreciative.

The positions identified are "Stud -- Comp -- Screw"

I've included a picuter of the gear end of the lathe -- thanks a

million for your help!

John Rosberg

_____________________________________________________________________
___

Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures,

email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.

Hi Denny,

What is the brand and model of the tool post on John Gland's lathe?
The Aloris A2 that you gave me from your B-6 is a little too large.
I can't get the tool holders low enough to use 1/2" bits. The one in
your pics looks like it would be great.

Oh, how did you like using the Dalton? Just like your Hardinge...
right? :-)

Jim

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote:

Hi again

I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate.

Bison

makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10
or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I
have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last
one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice

cast

iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have
used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread

one

for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit
your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate
chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may
not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back
plate on the lathe it is going to be used on.

I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file
site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on
John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks.

Here

is the link to that site.



Turk

Per Andy Sargent's sugguestion, I using a Phase II Hobby tool post. Just the right size for my B-4. I'm using 3/8 inch bits ( same size as I use on my 9" south Bend)

Ron Peeler
B-4 Owner

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck back plates
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 06:06:01 -0000

Hi Denny,

What is the brand and model of the tool post on John Gland's lathe?
The Aloris A2 that you gave me from your B-6 is a little too large.
I can't get the tool holders low enough to use 1/2" bits. The one in
your pics looks like it would be great.

Oh, how did you like using the Dalton? Just like your Hardinge...
right? :-)

Jim

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote:

Hi again

I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate.

Bison

makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10
or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I
have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last
one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice

cast

iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have
used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread

one

for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit
your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate
chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may
not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back
plate on the lathe it is going to be used on.

I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file
site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on
John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks.

Here

is the link to that site.



Turk

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Ronald Peeler" <Ronaldpeeler@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: RE: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck back plates
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 04:39:30 -0400

Per Andy Sargent's sugguestion, I using a Phase II Hobby tool post. Just the
right size for my B-4. I'm using 3/8 inch bits ( same size as I use on my
9" south Bend)

Ron Peeler
B-4 Owner

----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...>
Reply-To: daltonlathes@...
To: daltonlathes@...
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck back plates
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 06:06:01 -0000

Hi Denny,

What is the brand and model of the tool post on John Gland's lathe?
The Aloris A2 that you gave me from your B-6 is a little too large.
I can't get the tool holders low enough to use 1/2" bits. The one in
your pics looks like it would be great.

Oh, how did you like using the Dalton? Just like your Hardinge...
right? :-)

Jim

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi again
>
> I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate.
Bison
> makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10
> or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I
> have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last
> one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice
cast
> iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have
> used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread
one
> for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit
> your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate
> chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may
> not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back
> plate on the lathe it is going to be used on.
>
> I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file
> site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on
> John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks.
Here
> is the link to that site.
>
>
>
> Turk
>

Hi Jim

The tool post I used on Johns lathe was the aluminum version of the
065 size tool post. I did however install one of the Phase II 065's
on the 9 inch South Bend workshop lathe I built for Gary Thompson up
in Tacoma Washington. It worked out really good on the SB so I
know it would work good on the Lot 6. Just remember the 065 only
will take a 3/8 tool bit but as more and more of us lathe owners are
moving to insert tooling the 3/8 size fits our smaller lathes just
right.

The Aluminum 065 stool post set can be gotten off eBay for $55 some
times and is a good buy. Works really nice on a Lot 2 3 4 or 5 B-4
lathes. The Phase II is a much better tool post but at over a $100
more with shipping its hard to justify the expense for the small
amount of added performance though it will last much longer being
made of hardened steel. On a Lot 6 I would definitely step up to
the Phase II version as the lot six will need the added rigidity it
offers.

All you guys just use something other than them dam rocker Armstrong
tool post. They look great on a show piece but you should see all
the busted and repaid top slides I have that were damaged by these
tool post. The Dalton top slide is just to light weight to handle
the forces imposed on them by these over hanging type of tool post
system. I think I have three top slides that the tee slots have
been busted out because of these tools. Several I have are been
busted out and plates secured with flat head screws to repair them.
The Dalton that sold last night on eBay had its top slide repaired
this way.

By the way I emailed the winner of that Lot 5 serial number 268 and
welcomed him to the Dalton gang. I have not heard back from him and
like the last two that sold on eBay I never did. I think they
thought I was going to try and sell them something."-))) No not me"-
)))

As to running Dalton for the first time it was fun. I was very
amazed at how well it worked. I did not get any vibration and with
the modifications I had made to the lathe it was very accurate.
Just like yours Jim."-)) Also Greg and Dave. Greg Fosmark has said
that the work I did on his lot 6 turned out really good. I only had
his saddle cross slide and compound but he said like you Jim it was
amazing what little I did and how much it helped the accuracy.

Turk

Hi Denny,

What is the brand and model of the tool post on John Gland's
lathe? The Aloris A2 that you gave me from your B-6 is a little too
large. I can't get the tool holders low enough to use 1/2" bits.
The one in your pics looks like it would be great.

Oh, how did you like using the Dalton? Just like your Hardinge...
right? :-)

Jim

Thanks a million, Dennis! I'll post some pics when I've mastered the
threading dance!

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote:

--Hi John

Not off topic at all.

The stud position is the gear that goes on the shifter handle

shaft

on the back of the head stock.

The screw gear goes on the lead screw.

The gear in-between if not specified is anything that fits as it's
only an idler. If a combination gear is called for it's the only
one you have and that I think is a 24 by 72 if I remember right.

I

would have to check to be sure. Anyway it's the combination gear
that came with your lathe when new. Some of the threads call for
spacific combination gears so just go by the chart.

Turk
- In daltonlathes@..., spokes10@ wrote:

Gents -- forgive my not logging in properly to the yahoo site --

I'm traveling and don't have the required data with me --

I'm getting ready to cut thread on my Dalton (!) for the first

time -- while it should really be sent to the guru and rebuilt,

it's

still much more of a lathe than I am a machinist (more a metal-
munching moon mouse).

In any event, there is a very nice brass plaque on the gear

cover

listing all the thread-per-inch gears necessary -- sadly, I have

no

idea which position is which -- if any of you would help a newbie
out, I'd be most appreciative.

The positions identified are "Stud -- Comp -- Screw"

I've included a picuter of the gear end of the lathe -- thanks a

million for your help!

John Rosberg

_____________________________________________________________________

___

Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures,

email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.

Hi gang,
Anybody know the holding capacity of a 3" chuck? I found a new Bison
3 jaw with both sets of jaws for $99, and I don't think it would be all
that much smaller holding capacity-wise than a 4", but I'm not sure.
Dave

Hi Dave

Dave a 3 inch is just going to infuriate you. I have a 3 1/2 on my
little English girl friend and it will not hold all that much and
not all that well either. Dave one bet is get one of the chinky
chucks that are selling for under $75 on eBay. Standard two sets of
jaws. Send it out to me and I can work a little magic on it and it
will run quite true. The seller clamed .003 run out but I know how
to make them run a lot closer than that. The 4 inch would be a
good size but don't get a 3 inch as they are used on Unimats and
Shirline lathes.

Turk

Hi gang,

Anybody know the holding capacity of a 3" chuck? I found a new Bison
3 jaw with both sets of jaws for $99, and I don't think it would be
all that much smaller holding capacity-wise than a 4", but I'm not
sure.

Dave

Morning Denny,
I'll skip the 3". Hey, if you do an extra 'specially nice job
fitting my back plate, I won't tell your wife about the English
girlfriend. =8-o
I asked Joe at Plaza Machinery about that 4" Buck adjust tru that he
has for $85. I explained what it is going to go on and he thinks it
will suit my needs. There was another one listed for 190 and had
an "Excellent" after it, so I wasn't so sure about the lesser chuck,
but he thinks it'll be fine. He's got a good reputation, and he's the
one looking at it. So I think I'll just get that one.
Being as this is an adjust tru, does it need a special back plate, or
just a regular one? I don't want you to have to get the Hardinge any
dirtier than you have to. ; )
I was looking at the backplate pictures on the Turk Works page, and I
see that big birds nest there. That is a cast iron back plate right?
When I was cutting down a piece of cast iron, all I got was dust. Man,
what a mess! That stuff flies everywhere. Almost as bad as dust from
the table saw.
Dave

Hi Dave

Say I was looking though my spares cabinet last night and I found a
brand new Bison 4inch back plate for an adjust true chuck. It is 1
inch 10 thead and plenty of room to put the Dalton thread in it.
Seams to me I remeber getting it for a good price and was going to
use it for a flat back but if you get the adjustable Bison this will
bolt right on to the back of the chuck.

Turk

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Morning Denny,
I'll skip the 3". Hey, if you do an extra 'specially nice job
fitting my back plate, I won't tell your wife about the English
girlfriend. =8-o
I asked Joe at Plaza Machinery about that 4" Buck adjust tru

that he

has for $85. I explained what it is going to go on and he thinks

it

will suit my needs. There was another one listed for 190 and had
an "Excellent" after it, so I wasn't so sure about the lesser

chuck,

but he thinks it'll be fine. He's got a good reputation, and he's

the

one looking at it. So I think I'll just get that one.
Being as this is an adjust tru, does it need a special back

plate, or

just a regular one? I don't want you to have to get the Hardinge

any

dirtier than you have to. ; )
I was looking at the backplate pictures on the Turk Works page,

and I

see that big birds nest there. That is a cast iron back plate

right?

When I was cutting down a piece of cast iron, all I got was dust.

Man,

what a mess! That stuff flies everywhere. Almost as bad as dust

from

the table saw.
Dave

Hey Denny,
Joe is holding the chuck for me, so with the back plate you have
there, it looks like 'ol Hubert wants this chuck on his lathe.
Thanks! Do you need me to send out the chuck, or are you just going
to send out the backplate? Maybe I should send the chuck out there so
you can do the Turk voodoo to it. Then let me know what I owe you. Just
keep in mind I only have the one arm left and my knees aren't that
great! ; )
I won a Brown and Sharpe Acme thread gage and a 29 deg. threading
gage on ebay and in with it was a Brown and Sharpe #12 0-1" micrometer.
I was just bidding on the Acme gage, no rust, nice phosphate finish,
edges still shiny, and in the original paper wrapper which is pretty
gross. Anyway, I cleaned up the micrometer and I can't figure out how
to zero it. There is a little hole in the end of the spindle handle,
and I have a little spanner wrench to fit it, but nothing wants to
move. I posted a picture in with my lathe pic's which I'll take out in
a few days. Can you tell me how to zero this thing? I'm not planning on
using it, I just want to play with it.
Dave

Hi guys,
I was just cleaning up some of the lot 5 parts and I got to the lead
screw bushing. I think that's what this is called. It's the part that
screws into the saddle that the lead screw goes thru and the dial ring
would ride up against.The part that gets replaced at the Turk Works and
gets a little thrust bearing hidden in.
There are two pins thru the part of it where the 0 line is. They
are at right angles to each other. They're kind of hard to see in the
pictures I posted in with my lathe files, so I lightened them a little
and drew little arrows to them.
Anyone know what they're there for? They need just a little more
stock for one more of these on Friday afternoon and all they had was a
piece with two holes drilled in it so they put some pins in there?
Practice job for one of the apprentice's? Like, Ok kid, here's what you
do if you accidentally drill a hole in the wrong place on a part you
need?
Ok, I'm gonna post the pic's real quick and turn off my computer.
Damn thunderstorm again and this one sounds like a doozy! They just
won't leave us alone lately.
Dave