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Re: Lathe Face Plate
oldarnmonger
--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote: <snip> Has anyone heard from old fuzzy face Andy Sargent. Seams the moving</snip> Hello... <tap> <tap> <Squeeeeek!> Is this thing on? I'm here! HELP! I've been taken hostage by 2 old houses that I'm desperately trying to remodel and sell. The good news is that SWMBO and I just brought the last truck load of tools home after spending the last 6 weeks remodelling the old houses. We're all finished except for the part that requires waiting for a buyer to snatch them up. Better news is that I'll have my life back! Maybe I'll even get the shop unpacked and a machine or 2 working soon. I'll even get the boxes of flat belting unpacked and get belts made for those of you who've been patiently waiting (you know who you are). Thanks, guys, for being patient with me and my temporary loss of anything that resembles free time. - Andy Who's looking forward to a little R & R in Walton Hills, OH |
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Re: Greg Fosmarks Lot 6 saddle rebuild
--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote: ... I have all the drawings for the special parts needed. I don'tthink Greg new that the thumb screw was missing from the cross slide dialDennis, Greg's saddle looks great! Is there any way you can post those parts drawings? I'd be interested in seeing those. Dave |
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New old Dalton on ebay
Dennis Turk
Hi all
Well we now know what he wants for the lathe. I figure his reserve is $1000. Andy and I both made him a good offer and he laughed at us or rather never responded back again. Here is the item number. Bad pictures to boot. check out Andy's web site to see some good ones. Very early lathe with a cast support for the overhead drive we had not seen before. EBay item # 7627258734 This lathe has many modifications done to it. The belt drive from the motor is not correct there would have been a clam shell two piece guard around the drive that was originally a silent chain drive. They cut a Vee grove in the chain sprocket for the belt drive. I don't figure he will get any bids on it just like the guy with the odd ball lot 5 in Verona VA. My suggestion is not open the bid as he may have the reserve at what his opening bid is. Seen this happen before. Turk |
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Dalton from Champagne IL
Dennis Turk
Hi all
Well the lathe that John gland picked up for me is uncrated and sitting in my shop. Now in the eBay pictures the lathe did not look so good but I must tell you that this lathe is one of the best we have. Only one area of damage and that is the top of the compound. The base for the compound is perfect but the front of the top slide has spent some time getting to know the chuck jaws. Not bad and will cleaned up fine. The only other thing I could find was the saddle lock bolt is not original. Other than that there is not ware or can I see than anything has ever been taken apart. This little girl is a very nice little virgin. check out the pictures I just put up. Even the spindle nose threads look like new. The lathe is in its original japanning and next to my peddle lathe this things is clean clean clean. There is a little sign of use in the spindle bearings but there is still shim in both of them. The only negative is they have run the spindle with the end play nut set to tight and the read fiber washers are worn to the point that with the nut screwed down as far as it will go there is still a little end play. Now problemo here as old Turk just happens to have some good original thrust washers. This lathe was built after 1920 and before 1925. The large back gear is a full disc gear so that makes it maybe 1923 to 1924. It has the two piece end door and also the two piece back gear guards. Late version of the tail stock but still has a spooked 96 tooth gear. Only my Lot 5 I have that was made at South Beach has a full disc 96 tooth gear. The threading tag states Dalton Manufacturing Corporation. So was built in New York. Hay check out the great dealer tag that is installed with the same rivets that the other tags are installed with. John did a great job of packaged things back up in the crate that I sent his lathe in. Now both times we used Forward Air and I can tell you the crate looks as good today as when I built it. They did a very good job of not damaging anything. Check out the pictures in the photo file and all of you let me know what we should do with it. I am leaning to a dismantle a very good cleaning and a little buffing of the bright metal and leave well enough alone. Greg Fosmark emailed me tonight and told me his saddle arrived today in good shape. Greg will be back and running in short order. Keep them Daltons turning out works of art. Ya and that means you do Dave.K. Dennis Turk Turk |
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gibs
Hi Dennis,
That lathe from Illinois looks like a beauty! That four jaw chuck looks a little big for it though, maybe you should send it out here.;- ) Is that Scott Cortez's lathe up on e-bay there? I thought it was, but the pictures are pretty fuzzy, and the ones on the Dalton site are nice and clear. I have a gib question here. After I was cleaning up the lathe last nite, I took the top and cross slide off to see if any of those brass chips got under anything, and while it was apart, I checked the gibs just to see if they're flat. They're flat across the part that bears on the slides, but the cross slide gib is a little wedge shaped. It'a only by about .010, but I'm wondering if that may be why I keep getting play in there. The screws are tight, and stay tight, but I get play in there after a while. I couldn't say after how long, because I don't use the lathe everyday. So I thought I'd put the question up here before I go nuts trying to make the gib totally flat with a file. Also, I think that where the screws bear on the gib, they're probably not right in those little indentations they're supposed to be in, and the middle indent is a hole.It's not all the way through, but it's a lot bigger that the point of the screw. Where the indents are on the cross slide gib, there are two or three of them, but I couldn't say if they were there when I got the lathe, or if they're from using it with some play in the gib or what. I posted some pictures of the gibs in my lathe file. The dark spots on the longer one are the high spots. I started grinding that flat, or smooth, and they agree with the marking blue when I tried it against a chunk of granite counter top, which I was assured was pretty durn flat. Well, I should be off to the salt mines here. Any thoughts or ideas will be gladly accepted and greatly appreciated. Except for the ones that state I've made things worse! ;-) Dave |
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Picture of the Lot 6 s/n 167
big_libby
Hell all,
It's been awhile, I have not had a chance to get back to work on my lathe. But I was looking thru the Photos and saw the phots of the Lot 6 s/n 167 and the drive unit on it. Atr this point i have a motor mounted to a alum plate hinged on the beach and need to come up with a better way of driving the lathe. Are there better pictures showing the setup of that drive unit? It looks likek the motor is sitting between the lathe and the pulley and would be a good design for my layout. So any pictures and dimension would be great. thanks Rob Libby |
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Re: Picture of the Lot 6 s/n 167
Dennis Turk
开云体育Hi Rob
?
The drive unit on Jim Bonners Lot 6 is actually a
South Bend? fixit countershaft from the mid thirties.? These were used
on the 405 workshop lathe and also the 420 toolmakers lathe.? Rob any of
the SB rear bench mount countershafts will work with your lot 5 lathe.?
There are I think four different ones but the most common is the adjustable
model used for sixty years.? Tons of them out there.? They all use a
7/8 shaft so your Dalton cone pulley will fit these just fine.? The large
pulley on them that the motor drives is just the right size and its easy to get
the 250 to 300 rpm you need for your Dalton.? With the countershaft running
at 300 you will have a safe rpm range for your Dalton.?? Somewhere in
one of the catalogs I think I read that Dalton used a countershaft speed of
250.? 250 rpm was the standard line shaft speed for setting up an overhead
ceiling line shaft system in the old days.
?
Rob I will send you? a link to one of these
countershaft units the next time I see one on eBay.
?
Turk
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Re: Picture of the Lot 6 s/n 167
Libby, Rob
开云体育Turk,
??? Thanks for that information. Are there any of these units
with away to relax the tension when not in use?
?
Thanks
?
?
Rob
Libby
?
Hazelett Strip-Casting
135 West Lakeshore Drive
Colchester, VT 05446
802-863-6376
www.hazelett.com
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Re: Picture of the Lot 6 s/n 167
Dennis Turk
Hi Rob
Yes SB used an over center link with an adjustable coupling with a right and left hand thread so you could shorten or lengthen the link to the countershaft. With the arm and the adjustable link you could adjust the belt tension as well as loosen it for changing spindle speeds or left lose when not in use. SB mounted this arm on the head stock by a pin that went through the head stock casting just under the front back gear shaft bushing. I am not sure there is room to do this on a Dalton head stock but I have set some of these units up using a gas strut in place of the link. I have been thinking about building a really good back bench mount countershaft for Dalton owners but have not had time yet. Hell I can't seem to find time to complete the thread dials yet. I have one more project in my shop and as soon as it is completed and shipped I will have time to complete them. Turk Thanks for that information. Are there any of these units with away to relax the tension when not in use? Thanks Rob |
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Re: gibs
Dennis Turk
Hi Dave
As to the lathe from Illinois. I am sure glad the dumbly that had it only had it for a short time. I think it was the extra end play in the spindle he did not understand that prompted him to sell it. You could not have turned anything with the play it had. Again this guy did not even know what to call a lathe chuck. The four jaw he just called a bigger head for the lathe. I did question him on a number of things but he could not answer one question. The question about the change gear I asked he answered by telling me there was a stack of different size wheels but he did not know their use. Or he was just playing dumb. Who knows? Yes that is or was Scotts lathe. He was wonting to sell it to make room for other equipment so it may be in the hands of a machine dealer now and not just on consignments. I think the pictures are ones the dealer took and not the ones Scott sent us. Yes that big heavy duty 6 1/2 inch four jaw is to big for a Lot 4 Dalton but will work just great on my Lot 6. Sorry Dave"-(((((( OK to your gib question. First the larger hole in the center of the gib is the one used to keep it in place. The rest of the screws just put pressure on the gib. It is not uncommon to see a gib that will rock on the end of the screws and end up with some amount of out of parallel with use. One other thing is that Dalton set screws look like the points were hand formed or poorly formed so they are not exactly on center. So if a gib has indents from these screws and then you move the position of the screws you may be seeing some new seating going on and this would account for your gib getting loose after a little use. I actually prefer a nice radius on the end of the screws so this does not happen. Turk --- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote: chuck looks a little big for it though, maybe you should send it outhere.;- )was, but the pictures are pretty fuzzy, and the ones on the Dalton sitelast nite, I took the top and cross slide off to see if any of thosebrass chips got under anything, and while it was apart, I checked thegibs just to see if they're flat. They're flat across the part thatbears onthe lathe everyday. So I thought I'd put the question up here before Igo nuts trying to make the gib totally flat with a file.to bebut it's a lot bigger that the point of the screw.lathe, orflat, oragainst aideas will be gladly accepted and greatly appreciated. Except for theones that state I've made things worse! ;-) |
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Re: Picture of the Lot 6 s/n 167
Hi Rob,
I added a couple of pics of the countershaft to the album. It's a simple set-up. One of these days I'll mount the countershaft bracket to a hinged plate so I can adjust the belt tension. Hope the pics give you a better idea of the set-up. After looking at the pics, it looks like I need a little shorter belt for the motor.... :-) Jim |
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Re: gibs
So, I spent the evening making a little bushing out of aluminum. I
made it 7/16 so it will fit in a collet. Then I put it in a collet and drilled and tapped it so I can put the gib screw in there and re-point it. I think that by doing this, it's as concentric as I can get it. I put one of the gib screws in just to see how it would work and the points are off center. So I guess I'll re-point them, and round them off a little with a file. Then hope they line up with some of the indents? I don't know how I'd remake the indents without messing up the threads for the gib screws. I thought about a center drill, but the #1 is too small and the #2 is too big. I also thought about running the tap into the gib screw holes and hoping I can get it to leave a mark, and then drilling it on a drill press. Would that work, or should the indents be made with the gib in place? Hey, it finally stopped raining out here today. The sun came out for a minute and I can still see spots! Dave |
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Re: my groups
--- In daltonlathes@..., "sevendogs2001" <scedars@...>
wrote: Who knows? They're always doing something to "improve" things. |
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Removing Taper ??
Hi all,
I'm wondering if someone could give me some advice on getting my lathe to cut straight. The lathe is a Dalton B6. When I cut a test bar,(without a center in the tailstock) I get about .005 taper in 6 inches. The smaller diameter is at the headstock end. I would think that if it was a matter of normal bed wear, the smaller diameter would be at the tailstock end. I have checked for bed wear by mounting a travel indicator on the carriage and indicating off the tailstock flat way. It doesn't indicate any wear that way. I'm thinking that the spindle bearings aren't aligned with the bed. As I recall there is about .004 shim under the large spindle bearing halves to take up for wear in the bearing. Any suggestions? thanks, Jim Bonner |
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calipers vs. micrometers.
Hello everyone,
I was just looking at some tool catalogs, and it struck me that since all the calipers are listed as having accuracies of plus or minus .001 in 6 inches, and most of the micrometers are listed as being plus or minus .0005-.00015 in 1", that the calipers are just as if not a little more than accurate as the micrometers. And a little more useful since you get more than one inch out of them. But, if that is the case, I don't think anyone would be spending like 700 dollars on a set of 1-4" micrometers. Can someone enlighten me here? Or possibly point me to some information explaining this, since this might make for a pretty long post? I'm also noticing that the digital stuff doesn't list the accuracies most of the time. But then there is a set of Mitutoyo 0-6" micrometer with interchangable anvils and the accuracy is listed as plus or minus .0002 + .00005 x L/3 where L is the max. measuring length. Pretty concise listing, right? Then even Starret and Brown and Sharpe will only have the resolution listed. Very confusing. What gives here? Dave Kirk |
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Re: calipers vs. micrometers.
Morning Dave
I find that Micrometers are more accurate than the calipers. I use both. When roughing in, I use Digital calipers because the measurements are done very quick. However when getting close to my final diameter, I switch to my Mitutoyo micrometer. This micrometer can be read both digitally and also directly off the barrel. I prefer to read the measurement off the barrel. I like to see the actual measurement and the alignment of the scribed lines. The battery has long since died, and I havent bothered to replace it. If I were to purchase another micrometer, I would forgo the digital option. Also, one thing that we learnt in the Optical company I work for, that if the Optical trainees get use to the digital micrometers, that when they arent available, they are completely lost. Ron Peeler B4 owner ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> Reply-To: daltonlathes@... To: daltonlathes@... Subject: [daltonlathes] calipers vs. micrometers. Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 10:51:32 -0000 Hello everyone, I was just looking at some tool catalogs, and it struck me that since all the calipers are listed as having accuracies of plus or minus .001 in 6 inches, and most of the micrometers are listed as being plus or minus .0005-.00015 in 1", that the calipers are just as if not a little more than accurate as the micrometers. And a little more useful since you get more than one inch out of them. But, if that is the case, I don't think anyone would be spending like 700 dollars on a set of 1-4" micrometers. Can someone enlighten me here? Or possibly point me to some information explaining this, since this might make for a pretty long post? I'm also noticing that the digital stuff doesn't list the accuracies most of the time. But then there is a set of Mitutoyo 0-6" micrometer with interchangable anvils and the accuracy is listed as plus or minus .0002 + .00005 x L/3 where L is the max. measuring length. Pretty concise listing, right? Then even Starret and Brown and Sharpe will only have the resolution listed. Very confusing. What gives here? Dave Kirk |
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Re: Removing Taper ??
Morning Jim
I do a lot of tapers by offsetting the tailstock. But since you are not using the tailstock and the taper gets smaller closer to the stock. My vote is that your headstock is slightly out of alignment with the bed. Dennis, What do you think??? Ron Peeler ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...> Reply-To: daltonlathes@... To: daltonlathes@... Subject: [daltonlathes] Removing Taper ?? Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 19:25:01 -0000 Hi all, I'm wondering if someone could give me some advice on getting my lathe to cut straight. The lathe is a Dalton B6. When I cut a test bar,(without a center in the tailstock) I get about .005 taper in 6 inches. The smaller diameter is at the headstock end. I would think that if it was a matter of normal bed wear, the smaller diameter would be at the tailstock end. I have checked for bed wear by mounting a travel indicator on the carriage and indicating off the tailstock flat way. It doesn't indicate any wear that way. I'm thinking that the spindle bearings aren't aligned with the bed. As I recall there is about .004 shim under the large spindle bearing halves to take up for wear in the bearing. Any suggestions? thanks, Jim Bonner |
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Dalton on ebay
Dennis Turk
Hi all
Just a note about the Dalton on eBay that is located in NJ. This is a Lot 5 lathe with power feed to the saddle. (not cross slide) The lathe looks to be in original finish and not too bad of shape. There are no change gears with the lathe and the milling attachment is something other than a Dalton. The cone countershaft pulley is there but that is about all. I have asked the seller for the lot and serial number but he could not find it and so I sent him a picture of the end of the bed. So typical of people that pick these up at estate sales and have not a clue as to what it is or what goes with it. I can almost guarantee that there were a set of change gears some were there in the old boys shop. If you look at all the other stuff they are selling you see the lathe is kind of out of place. Auction number is 7631262968 Just some observations. Dennis Turk. |
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