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Magnat mid

 

I just recapped my 20's recently but didn't replace the cement resistors. I have a slight crackling in the mid Magnat even at low volume..and it seems appears on different music tracks. Weird right! Could someone help me by circling the components responsible for the mid on the DQ20 schematic? I don't have any testing equipment to track problems so I guess I'm asking you all for what may be the culprit? I mentioned before the movement is very smooth when manipulation by hand and no tears or damage visually. Btw the resistors all looked good when I had everything apart for cap change. Would a bad solder connection cause something like this? Anyway, any comments helpful and ridiculed....would be appreciated. Mick
 

If it started doing this after recapping I would suspect the solder joints. Do both speakers do this?
Did you replace the components individually? Any chance the caps got interchanged with wrong values??
 

You could swap the mid range driver from one speaker to the other. This would narrow it down to driver or crossover?

On Wed, Feb 12, 2025 at 3:37?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=[email protected]> wrote:
If it started doing this after recapping I would suspect the solder joints. Do both speakers do this?
Did you replace the components individually? Any chance the caps got interchanged with wrong values??
 

Richard..exactly. would definitely narrow it down.


On Wed, Feb 12, 2025, 12:52?PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg=[email protected]> wrote:
You could swap the mid range driver from one speaker to the other. This would narrow it down to driver or crossover?

On Wed, Feb 12, 2025 at 3:37?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=[email protected]> wrote:
If it started doing this after recapping I would suspect the solder joints. Do both speakers do this?
Did you replace the components individually? Any chance the caps got interchanged with wrong values??
 
Edited

That is the process I just used to fix my sprinkler system and it will work, especially if you have known good parts readily at hand to swap / sub. However, if you have multiple failures, like I did, it is not efficient. It took 10 days to fix the sprinkler.
 

Charlie.? Luckily I only have 2 choices! Pretty sure it's the speaker and not my top shelf soldering abilities! Lol...thanks man!


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025, 12:06?AM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

That is the process I just used to fix my sprinkler system and it will work, especially if you have known good parts readily at hand to swap / sub. However, if you have multiple failures, like I did, it is not efficient. It took 10 days to fix the sprinkler.
 

Please let us know. I’m always eager to learn!
 

The caps in red are the ones that affect the midrange.
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DQ-20-schematic mid caps.jpg

 

Thanks Charlie! I see on all schematics, they show the mid as "unbranded". Shouldn't it be Magnar? Or am I wrong? I'm receiving the next generation of the Scanspeak 2008 tweeter today from Madisound! Hey Charlie,? I didn't change out the cement resistors with the cap change...you don't think that may be an issue? I hope not. They all looked white and without burn spots..thanks for your wisdom. Mick


On Thu, Feb 13, 2025, 9:41?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=[email protected]> wrote:
The caps in red are the ones that affect the midrange.
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On the mid range branding, I don’t know. I just pulled that schematic from this site. In terms of the resistors, I heard of situations where the resistors appeared fine and when removed were burned and cracked on the bottom. The Dahlquist included resistors are just basic and not super high-quality.?
I would take a close look at all the solder joints with strong lighting and a magnifier if necessary. Look for a smooth shiny appearance.
Swapping midranges will elliminate that as an issue.
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