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DQ-28 bad tweeter. Sources replacements?
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Buddy of mine just picked up a pair of DQ-28 in great shape. One tweeter is under preforming. It works but does not have full range of highs. We swapped it with the working tweeter and it is NOT the crossover it is the tweeter. Has anyone tried ?? Are they any good? I see they have replacements available for $127ea. Should I replace with factory or do y’all have a replacement recommendation? Thank you in advance for all the help. Cheers
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开云体育That’s the Regnar site. I had great luck 15 years ago (or more) working with Joe. No recent experience.The website has been redesigned a few times and is still ? ?such ? an EYESORE Paul
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Hi Matt, Not sure if they have ferrofluid or not. But if so it has likely hardened over time. Which causes exactly what your experiencing. So you might consider taking them apart and removing as much as possible and trying again. I find the crud produces a slight damping even when new. So I usually remove most of it from the get go. The end result being slightly higher output without the mechanical dampening. To date I've never blown a tweet or even a fuse in my 10's.? Speaking of fuses I switched over to smaller size solder tail .75a fuses. IMHO I think they improve signal transfer by loosing the mechanical holders and most of the element length. The OEM for the 10's is a .80a. I ended up using some like the listing below but .75a instead of 1a. I now notice a listing for an even smaller Pico type. Which I didn't notice offered years ago. I've never tried them but they look interesting and are affordable to say the least. DD On Sat, Dec 5, 2020, 10:04 PM pbizzigotti via <orthobiz=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Watch eBay. The Vifa/Tymphany D25AG-05-06 was used in quite a few different makes and models back in the '90s. So, used, but working examples show up with some regularity. Just be sure you get the D25AG-05-06 and not the D25AG-35-06. The latter won't work as a drop in replacement. If you're on a time crunch or want to try something newer and improved, the folks at Madisound offer a service to this end and can probably do a decent job parameter matching one of the offerings they have in stock. Just plan on spending $2-300 for a pair of whatever they recommend.
What probably happened with that one is the ferrofluid went dry and without its cooling properties the voice coil cooked almost to popping open, but not quite. I suspect if you were to measure it and the working tweeter, you'll find this one has a much higher DCR because of that. Ferrofluid in drivers designed for it is there for a reason. It serves several important functions, cooling being just one of them. The other is damping, which is a desirable quality in a driver, and is absolutely needed with metal domes like these to keep them from ringing. Some mistake the ringing for louder and louder for better, but it's really just an ice pick to the ear source of distortion. The Fs also changes, which usually will impact the behavior around the crossover point. The removal of ferrofluid is some whacky tweak from the '80s developed by those with no clue how drivers work. Things like this is why I shy away from buying old speakers from enthusiasts. Usually have to put more effort and money into undoing their hoaky hacks, "fixes" and "upgrades" than I would with something less 'blessed' by the handiwork of Saints Dunning and Kruger and simply left alone. |
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Have you considered an early speaker swap using ribbons?
Also, recently heard some amt style from Parts Express attached to some DQ10s and it was a bit more open and airy.? A pair of those shipped for under $50.00. Years ago I changed out the hard domes for JVC Dynaflat 2 Ribbons and liked it. Swapped it back when I sold that pair. |
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Hey nobody ever said you can't remove the old ferro and install new. I mean really, is buying unmatched drivers, in unknown condition, from whatever source the solution? Why not if possible fix the matched OEM's they were designed with in the first place. I've managed to do so many times. I find that most treated drivers employ to much fluid. And over dampening is the end result. Not to mention the outcome once it hardens. Removing and replacing the fluid is not rocket science. Just be careful while dealing with the fine voice coil wire while pulling and replacing the cone assembly. And make sure to make a few realignment scribes prior to disassembly. Then you can reinstall it back into alignment. Other than that just clean the crud out. And reapply fresh tar if desired. Solid copper wire strands work well to dig it out of the magnetic gap. Fresh fluid can be sourced at the usual online sites. So damn the engineering, as the number one issue being addressed is burnout warranty repairs. Everything else is considered secondary and that is why it was developed in the first place. I'm not sure about the 28, but the good thing about the 10 is it has a tweeter level control. That combined with proper equipment selection allows for easy correction of what is deemed as excessive brilliance. Should you even encounter it. I didn't with the OEM polycarbonate cone. Plus there is only one cure for for drivers that have had the tip top sparkle padded out in an attempt to tame "irregularities". And that is to remove or replace it. I've experimented with different amounts of ferro in a few applications.? And have found by trial and error that the smallest amounts of fresh fluid to be ideal.? DD ? On Mon, Dec 7, 2020, 9:18 AM John van Son <jpvanson@...> wrote: Watch eBay. The Vifa/Tymphany D25AG-05-06 was used in quite a few different makes and models back in the '90s. So, used, but working examples show up with some regularity. Just be sure you get the D25AG-05-06 and not the D25AG-35-06. The latter won't work as a drop in replacement. If you're on a time crunch or want to try something newer and improved, the folks at Madisound offer a service to this end and can probably do a decent job parameter matching one of the offerings they have in stock. Just plan on spending $2-300 for a pair of whatever they recommend. |
MattB
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