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DQ-10 with a powered sub


 
Edited

Happy Friday everybody...

I have been watching auctions on DQ-1Ws, DQ-LP1s and DQ-mx1s. ?From what I'm seeing, 1Ws $200-250, MX1s $150-225, LP1s $200-300.
A local fella is selling a clean Klipsch R-110SW locally for $200. ?This has a built in selectable crossover points and should eliminate the need for a
LP1 or MX1 right? ?Anyone see a problem with using the Klipsch?

http://images.klipsch.com/R-110SW_-_Spec_Sheet_635466333600152000.pdf

ted


 

I used a polk with a remote vol and crossover selector. It wks fine , in fact it can produce more low freq then my 2 dq1’s . The remote is critical to me though otherwise your adjusting volume with every cd or piece u stream.?

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 5:50 PM Ted Geletka <ted@...> wrote:
Happy Friday everybody...

I have been watching auctions on DQ-1Ws, DQ-LP1s and DQ-mx1s.? From what I'm seeing, 1Ws $200-250, MX1s $150-225, LP1s $200-300.
A local fella is selling a clean Klipsch R-110SW locally for $200.? This has a built in selectable crossover points and should eliminate the need for a
LP1 or MX1 right?? Anyone see a problem with using the Klipsch?

ted?


 

Greetings Ted,

Imho regardless of perigee or cost. If it has a plate amp, or is vented in any way, it is a compromise. Unless all your seeking is inaccurate theater style bottom end. And if that's the case then buy a mate and run a pair preferably with a LP1.

The LP1 is a wonderful piece of equipment. But requires real human interaction on the selection of the 6db pass cap. Which means the end result will vary from the best on down to the worse. All depending on the owners ability to select the correct cap for his particular system. Imagine that..?

If you really desire bass reproduction on the same level as the 10's mid-range up. The same physics apply today as did in 1980. Which calls for "fast" subs preferably with AlNiCo magnets in a sealed enclosure. Two forward firing 10" woofers per channel does the trick nicely. Driven by a bi-polar class AB1 high damping factor amp. Like a 600+ DF. Usually the subs only require about half the power of the 10's. So even 120wpc will normally work. A stock LP1 is all that is needed for a Xover.?

Translation, when comparing full range with the Klipsch. You will likely first think the bass reproduction is improved. And it will be deeper. But chances are you will soon find yourself growing tired of it. As no matter where you set all the settings it just won't properly hook up. Whatever you do don't use the Xover in the Klipsch and then feed signal back to the mains. As that will degrade whatever signal you already have feeding the 10's.?

Have a great weekend.

DD

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020, 4:54 PM richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
I used a polk with a remote vol and crossover selector. It wks fine , in fact it can produce more low freq then my 2 dq1’s . The remote is critical to me though otherwise your adjusting volume with every cd or piece u stream.?

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 5:50 PM Ted Geletka <ted@...> wrote:
Happy Friday everybody...

I have been watching auctions on DQ-1Ws, DQ-LP1s and DQ-mx1s.? From what I'm seeing, 1Ws $200-250, MX1s $150-225, LP1s $200-300.
A local fella is selling a clean Klipsch R-110SW locally for $200.? This has a built in selectable crossover points and should eliminate the need for a
LP1 or MX1 right?? Anyone see a problem with using the Klipsch?

ted?


dina hirsch
 

The lo1 requires constant fiddling as vol and xo point needs change depending on source. I was always getting up and down.?

For my dq1’s I ended up buying two sub xo from parts express and running the subs from either speaker b out of sane amp or another amp . So when from same amp the vol adjusts with the mains. With sep amp I can adjust vol separately from mains .?

My second set of dq10’s ?I use the polk with remote. Hooked up to speaker B. I adjust vol, xo freq., phase from remote right from my chair. I actually find the powered sub works just as well maybe a bit better then dq1’s because the driver is much more flexible then the stiff dq1’s.. to each his own..

On Sat, Oct 10, 2020 at 1:51 PM Samuel Crider <dieseldude1@...> wrote:
Greetings Ted,

Imho regardless of perigee or cost. If it has a plate amp, or is vented in any way, it is a compromise. Unless all your seeking is inaccurate theater style bottom end. And if that's the case then buy a mate and run a pair preferably with a LP1.

The LP1 is a wonderful piece of equipment. But requires real human interaction on the selection of the 6db pass cap. Which means the end result will vary from the best on down to the worse. All depending on the owners ability to select the correct cap for his particular system. Imagine that..?

If you really desire bass reproduction on the same level as the 10's mid-range up. The same physics apply today as did in 1980. Which calls for "fast" subs preferably with AlNiCo magnets in a sealed enclosure. Two forward firing 10" woofers per channel does the trick nicely. Driven by a bi-polar class AB1 high damping factor amp. Like a 600+ DF. Usually the subs only require about half the power of the 10's. So even 120wpc will normally work. A stock LP1 is all that is needed for a Xover.?

Translation, when comparing full range with the Klipsch. You will likely first think the bass reproduction is improved. And it will be deeper. But chances are you will soon find yourself growing tired of it. As no matter where you set all the settings it just won't properly hook up. Whatever you do don't use the Xover in the Klipsch and then feed signal back to the mains. As that will degrade whatever signal you already have feeding the 10's.?

Have a great weekend.

DD

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020, 4:54 PM richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
I used a polk with a remote vol and crossover selector. It wks fine , in fact it can produce more low freq then my 2 dq1’s . The remote is critical to me though otherwise your adjusting volume with every cd or piece u stream.?

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 5:50 PM Ted Geletka <ted@...> wrote:
Happy Friday everybody...

I have been watching auctions on DQ-1Ws, DQ-LP1s and DQ-mx1s.? From what I'm seeing, 1Ws $200-250, MX1s $150-225, LP1s $200-300.
A local fella is selling a clean Klipsch R-110SW locally for $200.? This has a built in selectable crossover points and should eliminate the need for a
LP1 or MX1 right?? Anyone see a problem with using the Klipsch?

ted?


 

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I can’t speak to the Klipsch sub in particular, but in my opinion a musical sub can be a good match and should not require constant adjustment with a remote. ?When my DQ-10’s & 1W were in a dedicated 2ch room the sound suffered from ?muddiness using the MX-1. ?The system sounded much tighter using my preamp and a bridged Sony TA n55 ES attenuated 50 % to protect the 60w 1W driver. ?More recently I integrated the 10’s into the living room 5.1 system using the HT bypass of my 2ch preamp and my NHT SubOne which is ported and plate amped. The SubOne controller has level and flat or video contour settings and just fills the bottom end nicely for music set to flat. ?FWIW at first I tried the speaker level cross over of the SubOne and the same lack of detail/muddiness returned. In my experience speaker level cross overs are the real culprit. BTW the 10’s magical imaging, soundstage, detail, et all are not wasted at all on movies with a good soundtrack.?

On Oct 10, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Samuel Crider <dieseldude1@...> wrote:

?
Greetings Ted,

Imho regardless of perigee or cost. If it has a plate amp, or is vented in any way, it is a compromise. Unless all your seeking is inaccurate theater style bottom end. And if that's the case then buy a mate and run a pair preferably with a LP1.

The LP1 is a wonderful piece of equipment. But requires real human interaction on the selection of the 6db pass cap. Which means the end result will vary from the best on down to the worse. All depending on the owners ability to select the correct cap for his particular system. Imagine that..?

If you really desire bass reproduction on the same level as the 10's mid-range up. The same physics apply today as did in 1980. Which calls for "fast" subs preferably with AlNiCo magnets in a sealed enclosure. Two forward firing 10" woofers per channel does the trick nicely. Driven by a bi-polar class AB1 high damping factor amp. Like a 600+ DF. Usually the subs only require about half the power of the 10's. So even 120wpc will normally work. A stock LP1 is all that is needed for a Xover.?

Translation, when comparing full range with the Klipsch. You will likely first think the bass reproduction is improved. And it will be deeper. But chances are you will soon find yourself growing tired of it. As no matter where you set all the settings it just won't properly hook up. Whatever you do don't use the Xover in the Klipsch and then feed signal back to the mains. As that will degrade whatever signal you already have feeding the 10's.?

Have a great weekend.

DD

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020, 4:54 PM richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
I used a polk with a remote vol and crossover selector. It wks fine , in fact it can produce more low freq then my 2 dq1’s . The remote is critical to me though otherwise your adjusting volume with every cd or piece u stream.?

On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 5:50 PM Ted Geletka <ted@...> wrote:
Happy Friday everybody...

I have been watching auctions on DQ-1Ws, DQ-LP1s and DQ-mx1s.? From what I'm seeing, 1Ws $200-250, MX1s $150-225, LP1s $200-300.
A local fella is selling a clean Klipsch R-110SW locally for $200.? This has a built in selectable crossover points and should eliminate the need for a
LP1 or MX1 right?? Anyone see a problem with using the Klipsch?

ted?


 

I am no golden ear. Just a hobbyist. But did work for a Dahlquist retailer in the 80's and spent plenty of time with the DQ-1Q/DQLP1 combo. I really enjoyed that they matched the DQ-10s as well as they did. It was as if they had the same voice to me. On the down side, they did not bring the depth or dynamics I heard from other offerings. Fast forward to today, I have found myself happy with a Velodyne powered sub with my DQ-10s. Not trying to plug Velodyne as I think quite a few subs could fill the bill but the results are good. To get any sub to perform well is a challenge as tall as getting the DQ-10s to be at their best. Determining best location and good integration takes time and patience. A thoughtful installer should be able to make the Klipsch sub work well. As for the remote control, I love it. Mostly because of the variation in the recordings from era to era. Nothing wrong with warming up a lean mix, in my opinion. But also because I often listen at a low level at night, not wanting to disturb and my system sounds thin. No loudness button on my preamp and I like a little enrichment. Human factors... go figure :)?


 

I feel compelled to chime in, having read posts of people claiming the LP1 the only way to go! In the 40 years I’ve owned my DQ10’s, I’ve never had a chance to listen to the DQ/LP1 combo, neither at home, nor in the showroom where I purchased them and so I can’t say how this might compare to my setup. However: some 15 years ago I purchased a Totem Lightning sub, with an 8” cf driver (was inexpensive, used). Initially, it didn’t mesh seamlessly with the DQ10’s, fit the bill as some have described; however, after its plate amp failed, I replaced it with a 300 watt, Bash, digital plate amp and tapped off the amplifier instead of the preamp - this proved to be a wining combination as the sub now seamlessly integrates, while the digital plate amp is dead quite and runs cool .... I couldn’t be happier! Also, like Paul, I listen quietly, but, even cranked, the combo works very well - I’ve asked friends if they could distinguish the sub - no one’s been able to! I’m happy!

John