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I am the original owner DQ 10s purchased through audio club while stationed in Europe in 1976-77.? No serial numbers anywhere.? All original; nothing replaced so far.? Has the AGC 3 fuse but does not have the tweeter fuse where one would normally find it next to the tweeter in a fuse holder.? Instead, it has what looks to be an inline fuse (see pic)?

The speakers came factory mirrored with a paper on which was right and left but no right or left marking on the speakers. I can only guess maybe these were an earlier pair as factory mirroring started given lack of serial number or the usual tweeter fuse location.??

My plan is to have the crossovers tested; local vintage audio repair service believes it likely only the blue caps need replacing.? Speakers seem fine; woofer has been re-foamed.?

My question would be whether to have a fuse/fuse holder mounted next to the tweeter or leave well enough alone.??

I believe there is a argument for removing the fuse and holder. ?I just cannot remember the reason. ?That mid-range speaker doesn’t look anything like the mid-range on my two pairs of DQ-10s. ?All speaker leads are directly solder on mine, with no crimped spade disconnects. ?

Sorry, I just realized that that is picture of the tweeter. ?Still very different from mine. ?Has the tweeter been changed?

The tweeter has a bucking magnet on the back and does not look like an original tweeter. The baffle board also does not look original. That having been said fuses, connectors like the red one, or even level controls in general are bad, and have the potential to be degrade the sound, particularly when they’re this old. This is due to unpredictable and intermittent contact resistance. As long as you do not listen super loud, the fuses have no good reason for being there, and I would suggest bypassing them. It would also be a good idea to check out the tweeter level control to make sure that the output adjusts smoothly and continuously.

On Thu, 02 Mar 2023 11:33:40 -0800, Ed Marrs wrote:

I believe there is a argument for removing the fuse and holder. I
just cannot remember the reason.

I have read claims by some people that fuses are nonlinear devices and
that, for that reason, a fuse will add distortion to the electrical
current delivered to the voice coil of the tweeter.

Color me extremely skeptical with respect to such claims.

I highly doubt that Jon Dahlquist would have used them if they
adversely affected the tonal quality of the sounds that the speakers
reproduce.

Moreover, as one with a degree in Electrical Engineering and one who
has done some pertinent measurements, I can assure you that the degree
of nonlinearity is, at most, infinitesimal.

As I recall, my DQ-10s were equipped at the factory with 0.8-Ampère
Fast-Blow AGC glass fuses. Replacement fuses rated at 0.8 Ampères may
be a little difficult to find in brick-and-mortar stores, including
auto-parts stores. I use 0.75-Ampère (? Ampère) fuses as replacements
for the factory-supplied originals.

John Joseph McVeigh, Attorney at Law
16230 Falls Road, P.O. Box 128
Butler, Maryland 21023-0128

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Practice before the Federal Communications Commission
Member NY, DC, and USPTO Bars

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I can't believe no one has pointed out yet, that the inline device in the photo is not a fuse holder. It's a bullet-style inline quick disconnect.

I'm in agreement with others that neither tweeter, nor the wiring, nor the motor board looks original/correct.

-Greg

It is not the nonlinearity of the fuse per se but the unpredictability of the fuse holder that is the largest part of this issue.
I have measured this using the differential input on a TEK scope between the fuse body and the fuse clip.
I have also measured some nonlinearity on fuses that have been almost blown, that is visibly degraded but still having continuity. The voltage drop across the fuse was visibility distorted but not of a huge amplitude. 10’s of mV vs volts of drive signal.

It has not been changed

There are several anomalies on my speakers compared to other pictures I have seen of other speakers while I've been doing research largely regarding the need to recap the crossovers.? When I could not find a serial number, I used this site to try and get a fix on what was what, beginning with the lack of a fuse holder next to the tweeter but the existence of an AGC 3 fuse/fuse holder on the back.? I actually talked to "Joe" at Regnar/Dahlquist trying to zero in on it. He seemed helpful, but I decided to use a local vintage audio repair shop to update the crossovers since the Regnar/Dahlquist prices seemed unusually high. I'll post more pictures, to show the other "anomalies with the speakers; I'm finding this discussion to be very helpful in helping me decide what needs to be updated other than the crossovers, and, in fact, what nature of DQ-10s do I really have.? Additional photos will also reveal at some point there was some kind of "fix" to the tweeter board on the left side speaker.?

As for reference, again, I am (as far as i know) the original owner.? I received the speakers via an audio club while stationed in Greece in 1977.? How they got to the audio club I have no recollection.? The only thing I have ever done to the speakers is refoam the woofers and occasionally remove dust from the back.? I started this post since I am very curious to know what I ought to consider re updating the speakers and whether it's worth the effort since I have no desire to do any rewiring or soldering on the speakers myself.? Thanks to everyone for all the input.

Thanks for all responses.? I am going to take back that the tweeter has not been replaced; I must have at some point (probably late 90s because of the apparent date of manufacture).? It is a SEAS (guessing b/c it says made in Norway) 27 TFFD 6 ohm dome tweeter.??

Given that it's not original; would anyone know if that is a good fit, or should it be replaced (since the original was 4 ohms)??

Roy, are you happy with the sound as is? If you are I would suggest leaving the tweeter in place.
That is a higher quality tweeter than the original BUT it is a difference impedance and sensitivity so the crossover, if original, will not work as well with it.
?
if you are not happy with the sound then you would either have to replace the tweeter with the original or a reasonably close modern equivalent like this
,
or redesign/ modify the crossover.
The mod will, at least, add a parallel resistor to make the new tweeter have lower, and similar, ?impedance. It may also require an additional series resistor to lower the level of your new tweeter.
This is best done using measurements and the knowledge in both how to accurately make and interpret them. Although it is possible to do this by trial and error the likelihood of good results is low unless you are very talented and have good ears.?

Not happy with sound but I have Tinnitus and am willing to have crossover/tweeter checked by those who know better than I and move on. Crossover vice tweeter or both is a choice I am willing to make.
Your input has been helpful.? I have owned these speakers for around 45 years and hope to leave them to a child who will appreciate them.? My hope is to get them "close" to original as I can.?

I now use a Peachtree amp for music (vice a HK 16a I purchased at the same time) and I now run AVR/Home Theater through that Peachtree amp as well as stereo HiFi.? It works; the amp is fine; I will soon upgrade my current AVR and move on/ it's all a compromise between stereo and home theater in one system (although I could, spouse permitting, use two home separate spaces for each).? There are multiple options to replace the DQ-10s as main speakers, but I am emotionally (and perhaps musically) tied to them as a legacy thing.? Again, thank you for the input.

Would the ferro fluid need removal from the Visation tweeter?? I read somewhere that was reasonable and elsewhere maybe not so much.Replacing the tweeter seems much more reasonable than redoing the crossover.