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Hi Guys and Gals,? I know this question has probably been answered but searched through database and could not find anything definitive.? Have had these DQ10s for maybe 28 years.? Stereo pair s/n 42466 and 42467.? Other than woofer surround replacements they are unmolested (or un-updated?!).? I understand the electrolytic capacitors are the most problematic. Not looking to do a complete x-over overhaul, but is it advisable to replace only the electrolytic capacitors- the speakers do not sound bad, but not sure what I may be missing?? So, if so, which ones should I replace?? See image.? Suggestions for components/values.? And, are there polarity issues to worry about?? Thanks, yes I'm a novice, but enjoy the hobby.??? Mike
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Change the blue cap. ?It’s an old electrolytic.?
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On Oct 21, 2020, at 6:09 PM, rychjo via groups.io <rychjo@...> wrote:
?Hi Guys and Gals,? I know this question has probably been answered but searched through database and could not find anything definitive.? Have had these DQ10s for maybe 28 years.? Stereo pair s/n 42466 and 42467.? Other than woofer surround replacements they are unmolested (or un-updated?!).? I understand the electrolytic capacitors are the most problematic. Not looking to do a complete x-over overhaul, but is it advisable to replace only the electrolytic capacitors- the speakers do not sound bad, but not sure what I may be missing?? So, if so, which ones should I replace?? See image.? Suggestions for components/values.? And, are there polarity issues to worry about?? Thanks, yes I'm a novice, but enjoy the hobby.??? Mike
<IMG_4838.jpg>
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Looks almost like my board. Have to look when I get home.
Change the blue cap.? It’s an old electrolytic.? ?Hi Guys and Gals,? I know this question has probably been answered but searched through database and could not find anything definitive.? Have had these DQ10s for maybe 28 years.? Stereo pair s/n 42466 and 42467.? Other than woofer surround replacements they are unmolested (or un-updated?!).? I understand the electrolytic capacitors are the most problematic. Not looking to do a complete x-over overhaul, but is it advisable to replace only the electrolytic capacitors- the speakers do not sound bad, but not sure what I may be missing?? So, if so, which ones should I replace?? See image.? Suggestions for components/values.? And, are there polarity issues to worry about?? Thanks, yes I'm a novice, but enjoy the hobby.??? Mike
<IMG_4838.jpg>
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Though a bit sun faded, those old yellow polyester capacitors are still servicable unless the speakers are sounding really off. (Film caps can and do go bad, but sporadically and after forty years or so in my experience.) The resistors and inductors don't look like they've gotten toasty and so should still be good. New polypropylene capacitors would be an improvement, but it'd be small enough you'd have to do a side-by-side comparison to really notice it, to be honest. However, there will be a big improvement in replacing that blue 80?F electrolytic in the upper right as others have noted. You'll want to buy a non-polarized or bipolar capacitor for use in a crossover. These will be larger and more expensive than a standard polarized capacitor of that value, so be sure you watch what you buy when you order. One of these two would be suitable:?
Depending on your preference, other shops that have the capacitors include Parts Express and Madisound, but if you're in Canada, Solen.ca is the better option and, if in Europe, Hificollective.co.uk (though the options there can be overwhelming and they cater to less rational and more esoteric tastes thus making for some very expensive, though poorly made, options).
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I used the big solen in one and a Chicago I’ll. One from eBay in another set. The Chicago ones have better bass even after installing two redone prof woofers.?
Clarity caps. Parts list is in files. Madisound . Skip the piezo caps as they hi quality film .
On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 3:30 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: Though a bit sun faded, those old yellow polyester capacitors are still servicable unless the speakers are sounding really off. (Film caps can and do go bad, but sporadically and after forty years or so in my experience.) The resistors and inductors don't look like they've gotten toasty and so should still be good. New polypropylene capacitors would be an improvement, but it'd be small enough you'd have to do a side-by-side comparison to really notice it, to be honest. However, there will be a bit improvement in replacing that blue 80?F electrolytic in the upper right as others have noted. You'll want to buy a non-polarized or bipolar capacitor for use in a crossover. These will be larger and more expensive than a standard polarized capacitor of that value, so be sure you watch what you buy when you order. One of these two would be suitable:?
Depending on your preference, other shops that have the capacitors include Parts Express and Madisound, but if you're in Canada, Solen.ca is the better option and, if in Europe, (though the options there can be overwhelming and they cater to less rational and more esoteric tastes thus making for some very expensive, though poorly made, options).
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On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 3:56 AM dina hirsch < rdajr1079@...> wrote:
I used the big solen in one and a Chicago I’ll. One from eBay in another set. The Chicago ones have better bass even after installing two redone prof woofers.?
Clarity caps. Parts list is in files. Madisound . Skip the piezo caps as they hi quality film . On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 3:30 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: Though a bit sun faded, those old yellow polyester capacitors are still servicable unless the speakers are sounding really off. (Film caps can and do go bad, but sporadically and after forty years or so in my experience.) The resistors and inductors don't look like they've gotten toasty and so should still be good. New polypropylene capacitors would be an improvement, but it'd be small enough you'd have to do a side-by-side comparison to really notice it, to be honest. However, there will be a bit improvement in replacing that blue 80?F electrolytic in the upper right as others have noted. You'll want to buy a non-polarized or bipolar capacitor for use in a crossover. These will be larger and more expensive than a standard polarized capacitor of that value, so be sure you watch what you buy when you order. One of these two would be suitable:?
Depending on your preference, other shops that have the capacitors include Parts Express and Madisound, but if you're in Canada, Solen.ca is the better option and, if in Europe, (though the options there can be overwhelming and they cater to less rational and more esoteric tastes thus making for some very expensive, though poorly made, options).
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What's shown in this photo is a polarized capacitor hence the band with arrows formed into it. Don't use these in a crossover, it does bad things (ie blows up and stinks when power is applied) and the speaker will not sound right before the cap goes. Only use non-polarized (or bipolar depending on the company's choice of nomenclature) capacitors in a speaker. Music is an AC signal, not DC.
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They sound much better then big Solen ones
On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 5:12 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: What's shown in this photo is a polarized capacitor hence the band with arrows formed into it. Don't use these in a crossover, it does bad things (ie blows up and stinks when power is applied) and the speaker will not sound right before the cap goes. Only use non-polarized (or bipolar depending on the company's choice of nomenclature) capacitors in a speaker. Music is an AC signal, not DC.
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Polarized capacitors are used in electronic equipment like amplifiers per the reference, but after the final amplifier section, the signal goes from DC circuitry where the positive and negative polarities have their own signal path to an AC signal where the polarity alternates on the single path loop. Amplifiers and other electronics require polarized capacitors. Speaker crossovers must be non-polarized.
As for quality, since you referenced the Solens caps, those are?±5% tolerance in value. That means 80?F for the Solens will be within the range of 76?F to 84?F in value. The cap you linked to is -20%/+50%, which is about as bad a tolerance range as you can find in a purchasable cap. That means it can be anywhere from 64?F to 120?F in value. The resultant crossover point, even if that were a non-polarized capacitor would be ridiculously off what was designed.
Regarding sound, anything that says it's for a "guitar amp" is best interpreted as meaning "highly colored, very off parameter and high distortion". Anything that's thought good for something to produce music is terrible for reproducing it. The goals for the two are at utter odds with one another. One wants to induce distortion and colorations to get a desired sound, the other is meant to maximize fidelity to reproducing that sound the musician sought. Guitar amps are some of the most colored and distorted out there. You see "guitar" anywhere in the description for a component, don't touch it at the least and best to run away.?
TL;DR: Never use a polarized cap in a crossover. Double-never use a polarized cap meant for guitar amps in a crossover.
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Well the dq10’s with them have better bass and much fuller sound then due the pair with solens! So much so I ordered a second set... but given your input I’ll order some non polarized ones and still swap the solens out and see if the bass and sound improves
On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 6:20 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: Polarized capacitors are used in electronic equipment like amplifiers per the reference, but after the final amplifier section, the signal goes from DC circuitry where the positive and negative polarities have their own signal path to an AC signal where the polarity alternates on the single path loop. Amplifiers and other electronics require polarized capacitors. Speaker crossovers must be non-polarized.
As for quality, since you referenced the Solens caps, those are?±5% tolerance in value. That means 80?F for the Solens will be within the range of 76?F to 84?F in value. The cap you linked to is -20%/+50%, which is about as bad a tolerance range as you can find in a purchasable cap. That means it can be anywhere from 64?F to 120?F in value. The resultant crossover point, even if that were a non-polarized capacitor would be ridiculously off what was designed.
Regarding sound, anything that says it's for a "guitar amp" is best interpreted as meaning "highly colored, very off parameter and high distortion". Anything that's thought good for something to produce music is terrible for reproducing it. The goals for the two are at utter odds with one another. One wants to induce distortion and colorations to get a desired sound, the other is meant to maximize fidelity to reproducing that sound the musician sought. Guitar amps are some of the most colored and distorted out there. You see "guitar" anywhere in the description for a component, don't touch it at the least and best to run away.?
TL;DR: Never use a polarized cap in a crossover. Double-never use a polarized cap meant for guitar amps in a crossover.
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Well the dq10’s with them have better bass and much fuller sound then due the pair with solens! So much so I ordered a second set... but given your input I’ll order some non polarized ones and still swap the solens out and see if the bass and sound improves  On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 6:20 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: Polarized capacitors are used in electronic equipment like amplifiers per the reference, but after the final amplifier section, the signal goes from DC circuitry where the positive and negative polarities have their own signal path to an AC signal where the polarity alternates on the single path loop. Amplifiers and other electronics require polarized capacitors. Speaker crossovers must be non-polarized.
As for quality, since you referenced the Solens caps, those are?±5% tolerance in value. That means 80?F for the Solens will be within the range of 76?F to 84?F in value. The cap you linked to is -20%/+50%, which is about as bad a tolerance range as you can find in a purchasable cap. That means it can be anywhere from 64?F to 120?F in value. The resultant crossover point, even if that were a non-polarized capacitor would be ridiculously off what was designed.
Regarding sound, anything that says it's for a "guitar amp" is best interpreted as meaning "highly colored, very off parameter and high distortion". Anything that's thought good for something to produce music is terrible for reproducing it. The goals for the two are at utter odds with one another. One wants to induce distortion and colorations to get a desired sound, the other is meant to maximize fidelity to reproducing that sound the musician sought. Guitar amps are some of the most colored and distorted out there. You see "guitar" anywhere in the description for a component, don't touch it at the least and best to run away.?
TL;DR: Never use a polarized cap in a crossover. Double-never use a polarized cap meant for guitar amps in a crossover.
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Thanks all for your quick helpful responses. Got it. ? ?Mike
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On Oct 22, 2020, at 6:30 AM, dina hirsch <Rdajr1079@...> wrote:
? Well the dq10’s with them have better bass and much fuller sound then due the pair with solens! So much so I ordered a second set... but given your input I’ll order some non polarized ones and still swap the solens out and see if the bass and sound improves On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 6:20 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: Polarized capacitors are used in electronic equipment like amplifiers per the reference, but after the final amplifier section, the signal goes from DC circuitry where the positive and negative polarities have their own signal path to an AC signal where the polarity alternates on the single path loop. Amplifiers and other electronics require polarized capacitors. Speaker crossovers must be non-polarized.
As for quality, since you referenced the Solens caps, those are?±5% tolerance in value. That means 80?F for the Solens will be within the range of 76?F to 84?F in value. The cap you linked to is -20%/+50%, which is about as bad a tolerance range as you can find in a purchasable cap. That means it can be anywhere from 64?F to 120?F in value. The resultant crossover point, even if that were a non-polarized capacitor would be ridiculously off what was designed.
Regarding sound, anything that says it's for a "guitar amp" is best interpreted as meaning "highly colored, very off parameter and high distortion". Anything that's thought good for something to produce music is terrible for reproducing it. The goals for the two are at utter odds with one another. One wants to induce distortion and colorations to get a desired sound, the other is meant to maximize fidelity to reproducing that sound the musician sought. Guitar amps are some of the most colored and distorted out there. You see "guitar" anywhere in the description for a component, don't touch it at the least and best to run away.?
TL;DR: Never use a polarized cap in a crossover. Double-never use a polarized cap meant for guitar amps in a crossover.
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I would caution anyone from assuming the yellow poly caps, and the small poly caps for the super tweeter are good, just because they are poly caps.? On my set the super tweeter and tweeter circuit were both blown and caused the tweeter and super tweeter to
be out of the circuit on both speakers.? Test them and if in doubt change them with appropriate replacements.?
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I replaced them in one set and still don’t hear anything out of piezo but have always had sound from tweeters in both sets. I’ve test piezo directly by hooking them directly from speaker wires from amp at low vol and the driver produce sound that way. Not sure if xo freq but perhaps beyond my hearing range which is about 16k hz
On Thu, Oct 22, 2020 at 11:28 AM Jack Harrington < sirreal63@...> wrote:
I would caution anyone from assuming the yellow poly caps, and the small poly caps for the super tweeter are good, just because they are poly caps.? On my set the super tweeter and tweeter circuit were both blown and caused the tweeter and super tweeter to
be out of the circuit on both speakers.? Test them and if in doubt change them with appropriate replacements.?
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