Bi-Amping DQ 10’s

#6236

Hello everyone &

I’m wondering if there’s anyone within the group that has bi-amped their DQ10’s and if so, do you think it was worthwhile? If improved, how so? And, are you using an active and/or a passive crossover and what amp combination?

I’ve been toying with the idea, but, am a little Leary of the added complexity, wondering if I might not be doing more harm than good?

Any and all info appreciated. 

Thanks,

John

#6237

There are quite a few options, you would be cutting the green and white wires from the existing crossovers and using them to attach to your second amplifiers output. Dahlquist manufactured both a passive and active crossover. The dqlp1 (active) is the better choice. However, after biamping with many combinations of amps I never came close to the results I wanted until I stopped biamping and and fed them with monoblocks. Not only does it give a nice dedicated and identical feed to your speakers, it’s allowing you to play the speakers the way the design was meant to. You’ll hear a lot of bologna about biamping on these sites but a pair of mono amplifiers is the answer. Quite possibly one of your stereo amplifiers is bridgeable to mono as many have this capability and have largely increased power output in this mode.

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On Sep 5, 2022, at 1:09 PM, John Boros <jsjb@...> wrote:

?Hello everyone &

I’m wondering if there’s anyone within the group that has bi-amped their DQ10’s and if so, do you think it was worthwhile? If improved, how so? And, are you using an active and/or a passive crossover and what amp combination?

I’ve been toying with the idea, but, am a little Leary of the added complexity, wondering if I might not be doing more harm than good?

Any and all info appreciated. 

Thanks,

John

#6238

Thanks, Jerry &

Yes, I believe my Bryston is bridgeable. 

What monoblock amps are you using? 

Thanks,

John

Show quoted text

On Sep 5, 2022, at 2:05 PM, JERRY CANNATA via groups.io <jc3tux@...> wrote:

?There are quite a few options, you would be cutting the green and white wires from the existing crossovers and using them to attach to your second amplifiers output. Dahlquist manufactured both a passive and active crossover. The dqlp1 (active) is the better choice. However, after biamping with many combinations of amps I never came close to the results I wanted until I stopped biamping and and fed them with monoblocks. Not only does it give a nice dedicated and identical feed to your speakers, it’s allowing you to play the speakers the way the design was meant to. You’ll hear a lot of bologna about biamping on these sites but a pair of mono amplifiers is the answer. Quite possibly one of your stereo amplifiers is bridgeable to mono as many have this capability and have largely increased power output in this mode.
On Sep 5, 2022, at 1:09 PM, John Boros <jsjb@...> wrote:

?Hello everyone &

I’m wondering if there’s anyone within the group that has bi-amped their DQ10’s and if so, do you think it was worthwhile? If improved, how so? And, are you using an active and/or a passive crossover and what amp combination?

I’ve been toying with the idea, but, am a little Leary of the added complexity, wondering if I might not be doing more harm than good?

Any and all info appreciated. 

Thanks,

John

#6239

Hi John.

In hindsight I don't know how I ever lived with the 10's not bi-amped with a LP1. But I did so for nearly two years and it wasn't easy. It became quite a struggle with overheating power resistors and mediocre bottom end.?

They have proven to be an entirely different beast, and not even in the same league on a properly restored LP1. With a LP1 and the correct 6db pass cap(extremely important) they will open up and bloom like you've only dreamed possible.

Affordable equipment if carefully selected can produce fantastic results. I'd imagine a? Bryston is good for either amp. Gain controls on whatever main amp for the DQ-10's can come in handy. The bass amp doesn't have to have gain controls since the LP1 does. What you want is a high current, high dampening factor bipolar output amp on the bottom. Like 30+ amps, and 600+ DF. After that it's all dependant on cables and terminations. Again affordable wire can work just fine. Especially on the subs, like even vintage round 14ga Romex, can make great sub cables. The DQ-10's are a bit more demanding. I cut thru the chase and went straight to round Cobra cable.?

If you really want to start off right, find a set of vintage sealed alnico magnet cabinets for subs. Better yet even stacked matching pairs. Single 12"s will do but 2x or even 4x 10" can be even better. Whatever you decide upon take them apart and reassemble making sure the cabs are totally sealed air tight. And while your at it consider disconnecting whatever mids and tweeter exist. Sometimes that is as easy as removing all of the common return wires from the internal xover. It depends and sometimes bypassing the entire xover leaving the woofers direct is desired. Imho, your better off avoiding ported boxes and plate amp subs from the get go.?

You will find out that the DQ-10's will rise slightly in efficiency when unloaded from 100ish hz down. So you should find the Bryston works even better. They will still be on the inefficient side requiring a solid 250+wpc to really sing. One instant bonus is saying goodbye to overheating resistors and marginal bass.?

On the bass side you usually encounter higher efficiency requiring roughly 1/2 the amplifier power. Except that the current demand will be higher on the subs than the mains. Another added plus is this opens up the DQ-10's to being more tube amp friendly.?

The LP1 is a real gem and fairly easy to restore. Contrary to popular belief it does not need upgraded op-amps or even different film caps. The basic process requires replacing 7 wet caps and bypassing those with 620pf silver micas. This should be done asap as the caps have dried out and will cause xformer along with op-amp failure. What I've found is that the oem rca jacks sound better than most modern replacements. Which are also quite a pita to install. So it's best to just stick with the OEM jacks but make sure to resolder the board connections. Just use caution hanging beefy cables off the LP1 jacks. If needed provide hanging support.

So there you have it. Take the plunge and before long you will also experience the genie out of the bottle.

Best,

DD

Show quoted text

On Mon, Sep 5, 2022, 1:18 PM John Boros <jsjb@...> wrote:

Thanks, Jerry &

Yes, I believe my Bryston is bridgeable.

What monoblock amps are you using?

Thanks,

John

> On Sep 5, 2022, at 2:05 PM, JERRY CANNATA via <jc3tux=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> ?There are quite a few options, you would be cutting the green and white wires from the existing crossovers and using them to attach to your second amplifiers output. Dahlquist manufactured both a passive and active crossover. The dqlp1 (active) is the better choice. However, after biamping with many combinations of amps I never came close to the results I wanted until I stopped biamping and and fed them with monoblocks. Not only does it give a nice dedicated and identical feed to your speakers, it’s allowing you to play the speakers the way the design was meant to. You’ll hear a lot of bologna about biamping on these sites but a pair of mono amplifiers is the answer. Quite possibly one of your stereo amplifiers is bridgeable to mono as many have this capability and have largely increased power output in this mode.
>> On Sep 5, 2022, at 1:09 PM, John Boros <jsjb@...> wrote:
>>
>> ?Hello everyone &
>>
>> I’m wondering if there’s anyone within the group that has bi-amped their DQ10’s and if so, do you think it was worthwhile? If improved, how so? And, are you using an active and/or a passive crossover and what amp combination?
>>
>> I’ve been toying with the idea, but, am a little Leary of the added complexity, wondering if I might not be doing more harm than good?
>>
>> Any and all info appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>>
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Bi-Amping DQ 10’s