The Solen caps in the picture are date 1989 and 1990, not sure they were still making the DQ20i¡¯s in 1990. I have totally rebuilt mine 4 or 5 years ago and don¡¯t remember Solen caps.
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On Jun 23, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Sherman Goldman via groups.io <qstieee@...> wrote:
? 1) Some of the inductors are wound with fine wire, so be careful poking around. 2) None of the resistors looked fried 3) Nothing seems to be disconnected 4) There were manufacturing variations, so wire color and some components may be different than others' without destroying your belief in them being original. Though there weren't as many DQ-20i as something like the DQ-10, so probably fewer construction variations. FYI I have early DQ-10, late DQ-10, and DQ-20. 5) Things of this vintage were hand soldered, and nothing is perfect. If a solder joint separates it won't look it. If you are up to it, a gentle pull on each wire as it attaches to a soldering post (not as it goes in to a component) could find an improbable bad solder joint. If you are not comfortable with soldering don't do this, since if the connection comes off you won't be able to fix it 6) The capacitors with the stylized S logo are Solen, which is a good brand -----Original Message----- From: koryrf <koryrf@...> To: DahlquistSpeakers < [email protected]> Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 4:29 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-20i Tweeter dead? Just because I haven't seen this posted anywhere, here is a pic of my high filter crossover. This pic is taken looking in through the hole left after taking the woofer out. There was a fair amount of insulation packed in there that I removed so I could see the crossover. I am assuming this is all original because the guy I bought them from said he was the original owner and never touched them. ?Can anyone verify? <61462671002__B50C1359-334D-4595-B041-4ECE85BDF0FC.jpg>
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1) Some of the inductors are wound with fine wire, so be careful poking around.
2) None of the resistors looked fried
3) Nothing seems to be disconnected
4) There were manufacturing variations, so wire color and some components may be different than others' without destroying your belief in them being original. Though there weren't as many DQ-20i as something like the DQ-10, so probably fewer construction variations. FYI I have early DQ-10, late DQ-10, and DQ-20.
5) Things of this vintage were hand soldered, and nothing is perfect. If a solder joint separates it won't look it. If you are up to it, a gentle pull on each wire as it attaches to a soldering post (not as it goes in to a component) could find an improbable bad solder joint. If you are not comfortable with soldering don't do this, since if the connection comes off you won't be able to fix it
6) The capacitors with the stylized S logo are Solen, which is a good brand
-----Original Message----- From: koryrf <koryrf@...> To: DahlquistSpeakers < [email protected]> Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 4:29 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-20i Tweeter dead? Just because I haven't seen this posted anywhere, here is a pic of my high filter crossover. This pic is taken looking in through the hole left after taking the woofer out. There was a fair amount of insulation packed in there that I removed so I could see the crossover. I am assuming this is all original because the guy I bought them from said he was the original owner and never touched them. ?Can anyone verify? 
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Just because I haven't seen this posted anywhere, here is a pic of my high filter crossover. This pic is taken looking in through the hole left after taking the woofer out. There was a fair amount of insulation packed in there that I removed so I could see the crossover. I am assuming this is all original because the guy I bought them from said he was the original owner and never touched them. ?Can anyone verify? 
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Amazing what difference a vacuum cleaner, sandpaper and a little bit of elbow grease can make. Nice job...Also, can really tell you¡¯re ¡°one of us ¡°Only someone like us would sit in their easy. Chair admiring speaker stands!?
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If you determine that your tweeters are blown consider upgrading to the Hiquphon OW1. These are made by a former Scan Speak design engineer. I have a pair in my DQ-20s and I like them. My Scan Speak oem tweeters were still in good order.?
On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 10:13 AM < koryrf@...> wrote: The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore.? I have to find it first and if they are behind the woofers, then I have to get those off which are essentially glued on with sealant.
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Resistance is 5.5 and 6.0 ohms on the tweeters without disoldering them from the XO, but with the fuzes removed and the speakers disconnected from the receiver. ?I tested both external fuzes on each speaker and they are fine as far as I can tell (essentially the same result as if I touch the two probes together).
Before I saw your dire warning, I hooked speaker wires directly to them and ran them softly. ?Plenty of noise coming from them that way, juxtaposed with zero noise coming from them when I hook up the speakers normally. ?I should mention that the woofer and the midrange are operating fully (as far as I know). ?That is to say, music is coming from them in what I can only assume is the expected way.
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No they are on sep panel with mid drive and tweeter
Don't try to run them direct. If they are not already blown that will blow them. Try taking voltmeter readings right off the connections with them hooked up as they already are. Test CD source is handy but keep the volumes down low.?
They have a history of being fairly fragile. But are you sure the fuses are still good. Just swap them with whatever you can find for a test.
The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore.? I have to find it first and if they are behind the woofers, then I have to get those off which are essentially glued on with sealant.
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Don't try to run them direct. If they are not already blown that will blow them. Try taking voltmeter readings right off the connections with them hooked up as they already are. Test CD source is handy but keep the volumes down low.?
They have a history of being fairly fragile. But are you sure the fuses are still good. Just swap them with whatever you can find for a test.
The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore.? I have to find it first and if they are behind the woofers, then I have to get those off which are essentially glued on with sealant.
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They have a history of being fairly fragile. But are you sure the fuses are still good. Just swap them with whatever you can find for a test.
The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore.? I have to find it first and if they are behind the woofers, then I have to get those off which are essentially glued on with sealant.
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The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore. ?I have to find it first and if they are behind the woofers, then I have to get those off which are essentially glued on with sealant.
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You won¡¯t hear anything from piezo ones...run a wires direct from xo wires for tweeter to tweeter speaker terminal bypassing fuse holders to see if work Secondly run a wire from the speaker terminals of your receiver right to the tweeter speaker terminals just to see if they are working
On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:55 AM < koryrf@...> wrote: Ok, I swapped out the source (to a known good NAD Receiver) and I am clearly getting zero output from tweeters. I fear the guy that owned them before me fried them. I'll pull them out (and maybe check the crossovers too). I'll take any advice you folks have.? I assume the crossovers are in the main chamber behind the woofers?
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Ok, I swapped out the source (to a known good NAD Receiver) and I am clearly getting zero output from tweeters. I fear the guy that owned them before me fried them. I'll pull them out (and maybe check the crossovers too). I'll take any advice you folks have. ?I assume the crossovers are in the main chamber behind the woofers?
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Thanks for the advice. ?I have a cheapo digital VOM (Greenlee) so I don't know if my equipment is up to the test. ?Still, I tried what you suggested and didn't hear a pop in either tweeter. On the lowest setting, I did notice the ohms readout was around 2.4 for each, but since they are soldered in place, I don't know if I am reading the tweeter resistance or something else up stream. Just for giggles, I tested the resistance at the speaker terminals on both speakers and got around 8.4 ohms on one and 7.4 on the other. ?Like before, there may be too much electronic stuff in between the probes to get a meaningful result, but I thought I'd mention it in case I unwittingly stumbled onto something.
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Check the resistance on the driver removed from the circuit. They make a replacement now with the fluid cooling.
Bill Meyerhoff 843-834-2828 I have the DQ20i¡¯s also!
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Hi all:
just joined today as I picked up a pair of DQ-20i this weekend. ?I wish I could say I got them for a song, but I didn't. I thought I paid a good market value for them knowing that they are really good speakers when operating correctly. ?Even so, I knew they had at least one issue and maybe more. ?The guy I got them from said he owned them since the beginning and the only work he did to them was replace the woofers. ?Sadly, he used non-dahlquist (JBL) woofers. ?They work, but I won't be happy until I replace them with authorized ones. ?
This is not the critical now issue though. My most pressing issue is that the tweeters are not producing any sound at all (as far as I can tell). I've dealt with blown tweeters that distort like crazy, but not with silent ones. ?Is this a cross over problem or a driver issue? Recommendations?
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If you put a standard multimeter on the ohms position in the Rx1 scale, it should only use the 1.5 V battery inside. If you touch the leads quickly to a driver solder terminal points, you should hear a click and the meter will register low ohms (unless it is a piezo tweeter). Don't wait for the meter to move to see a reading - because DC resistance is not impedance. Just glance for meter movement and listen for the click quickly. I have done this for decades and never lost a driver. No meter movement or click indicates a problem, because not meter movement means no connection between the driver terminals (wire broken or voice coil open). Those experienced will infer that I use a classic analog meter, and that's true, a Simpson 260M. I always use analog meters with analog circuitry - easier for the eye to detect a pattern such as tuning an RF circuit for peak output. This procedure should be good for a digital meter too, though being more sensitive they may put a lower voltage out in the resistance function so you may not hear the solitary click.
Of course, do not check a fuse by sight. If you look through it and it's black, or the fuse element is in pieces in the 1/4" glass tube, you can bet it's bad. But if it looks good to the eye you still need to ohm it out. I've been fooled too many times that a fuse looks good.
Another related phenomenon with woofers is that good ones can generate enough energy to affect a poorly soldered connection. So at the driver terminals it passes the resistance test, and the wire to the crossover looks connected, but a slight pull on it, or ohming it out to the crossover, showed it actually not connected. This is only a few times over decades of having a basement full of electronics, but it does happen.
Finally, the obvious, do not put the VOM probes on the fine wires near the speaker cone. Only on the solder terminals that connect the wires that are part of the driver to the crossover. The rest of the wires, and paper cone of the speaker, are too delicate to approach with your meter probes.
-----Original Message----- From: koryrf <koryrf@...> To: DahlquistSpeakers < [email protected]> Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 6:39 am Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-20i Tweeter dead? I am single amping (Acurus A150, 14 gauge wire) with jumpers connecting the two inputs (little flat metal tabs). ?The fuses look good, although wouldn¡¯t the midrange be dead too if the fuses were fried? ?
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I could be wrong about all this. ?I have only been running them for about 24 hours and I am going off putting my ear to them (covers of) and all I hear making noise is the midrange (which is loud). ?I ran a test tone and it seems the sound coming from them, while appearing to drop off as the freq goes up, still hits an amazingly high note (dog whistle) before fading to nothing.?
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I am starting to think is may be an issue with my preamp. ?I am running the input through my PS Audio 6.0, which has been kind of glitchy. I am working on getting a second amp/preamp to test them on to narrow down the variables. ?I am no electrician, but I have a multimeter. ?Is there a way to test the speakers resistance without desoldering them?
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I am single amping (Acurus A150, 14 gauge wire) with jumpers connecting the two inputs (little flat metal tabs). ?The fuses look good, although wouldn¡¯t the midrange be dead too if the fuses were fried? ?
?
I could be wrong about all this. ?I have only been running them for about 24 hours and I am going off putting my ear to them (covers of) and all I hear making noise is the midrange (which is loud). ?I ran a test tone and it seems the sound coming from them, while appearing to drop off as the freq goes up, still hits an amazingly high note (dog whistle) before fading to nothing.?
?
I am starting to think is may be an issue with my preamp. ?I am running the input through my PS Audio 6.0, which has been kind of glitchy. I am working on getting a second amp/preamp to test them on to narrow down the variables. ?I am no electrician, but I have a multimeter. ?Is there a way to test the speakers resistance without desoldering them?
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I know enough about the DQ-20 and DQ-20i to be dangerous. But if it is both tweeters, it may be the way you biWired the speakers. I would think to get a proper diagnosis from people who know more than me you need to share more info. How are the speakers wired and what is the speaker selection on the amp/receiver.?
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I assume the 0.8 amp fuse tests good. And isn¡¯t the wrong physical size so it fits snugly in the fuse holder
-----Original Message----- From: koryrf <koryrf@...> To: DahlquistSpeakers < [email protected]> Sent: Mon, Jun 22, 2020 6:51 pm Subject: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-20i Tweeter dead? Hi all:
just joined today as I picked up a pair of DQ-20i this weekend. ?I wish I could say I got them for a song, but I didn't. I thought I paid a good market value for them knowing that they are really good speakers when operating correctly. ?Even so, I knew they had at least one issue and maybe more. ?The guy I got them from said he owned them since the beginning and the only work he did to them was replace the woofers. ?Sadly, he used non-dahlquist (JBL) woofers. ?They work, but I won't be happy until I replace them with authorized ones. ?
This is not the critical now issue though. My most pressing issue is that the tweeters are not producing any sound at all (as far as I can tell). I've dealt with blown tweeters that distort like crazy, but not with silent ones. ?Is this a cross over problem or a driver issue? Recommendations?
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Hi all:
just joined today as I picked up a pair of DQ-20i this weekend. ?I wish I could say I got them for a song, but I didn't. I thought I paid a good market value for them knowing that they are really good speakers when operating correctly. ?Even so, I knew they had at least one issue and maybe more. ?The guy I got them from said he owned them since the beginning and the only work he did to them was replace the woofers. ?Sadly, he used non-dahlquist (JBL) woofers. ?They work, but I won't be happy until I replace them with authorized ones. ?
This is not the critical now issue though. My most pressing issue is that the tweeters are not producing any sound at all (as far as I can tell). I've dealt with blown tweeters that distort like crazy, but not with silent ones. ?Is this a cross over problem or a driver issue? Recommendations?
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Re: Walnut DQM-9 Caninets
Anyone have dq10¡¯s I can get just mid bass, mid and tweeter drivers from?? Lol. Love to find some?
Eric,
I wish you had said something a few months ago. I had a great pair sitting in the garage for over two years and I couldn't find anyone to take them. I finally threw them out. Sorry. I never thought of posting them to the group....my bad.
Barry
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Bill Meyerhoff