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Attached is a photo of the stock DQ12 crossover and then the same crossover with the Regnar capacitor kit installed.

If I remember correctly it’s a 24uF capacitor. The J might be the tolerance

Just one dumb question: I understand a 100V MET cap, but can’t figure out 24.0J to farad equivalent. There are a bunch of pretty useless conversions out there, but none seems to attack the issue

My God, those are fantastic. I hope some of the rest of the group can use these, as well. Very helpful ! Thank you so much, Rick Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2022 6:14 PM To:

I had trouble finding these. These are an early schematic I did as at the time I had nothing to measure Henries, but it documents the capacitors and the general board layout. I hope this helps. -

That's excellent to hear. Thank you so much.Rick

I did the crossover upgrade on my DQ-12s. I bought the kit from Ragnar but made a schematic for my reference. I’m currently in Kuwait but I think I have it on my laptop in my hotel. I’ll check

Unfortunately, Richard only had DQ-10 information. Does somebody else out there have the information I need for the DQ-12?Rick

Parts list on in fikes for clarity caps and mills resistors . Complete overhaul instructions. If you can’t find them pm me!

HI there, I'm having trouble getting a cap and resistor upgrade kit from Regnar.? Does anyone out there have a parts list and instructions for cleaning up the sound in my system?? Any help would be

My original thought is to place baffles and drivers in their normal configuration on mdf with dimensions same as top of bass cabinet with their own crossover. ?I intend to mount on an adjusting

If you are talking about just running the drivers in parallel that will not work correctly without redesigning the crossover. Also the bass driver must be present as it is part of the ?one midrange

Sounds interesting. In the case of parallel connections I'm unsure what halfing the driver impedance will reflect upon the xover. Depending on how much headroom exist in the OEM design. I'm assuming

First post, I’ve read everything in this group so many times. The amount of information here is incredible. I am in the middle of a thorough restoration of one of my pairs of dq10 s . When finished

My guess would be refoam is off center. Hook just the problem speaker and when it is "clanking", apply light pressure to different parts of the cone and see if you can get noise to stop. If you can,

Could be the surround is a different one than in the good one or there's a spot that didn't seal well. Maybe? take, or have someone takee reading on all the xover specs and the inductor specs,

Yep, at some point the masonite needs regluing. Re the resistors, you might think about trying a thick film resistor with a small heat sink.? Not particularly expensive (though more than wirewounds)

If you recently refoamed it yourself ( I think you did), you should be able to heat the outer edge with a hairdryer and use a putty knife to loosen the new foar from the frame,? The try to re-seat

I’m going to try to rotate the driver or worse comes to worse refoam it. ?I’ll keep everyone posted. I’ll get to it hopefully by the end of the week.

You can buy redone ones for 100$ at simply speakers if you can’t get it right..