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All part of the frustration with vintage drivers. Everything is suffering age related degradation regardless of materials, so you have to be extra careful to get something not obviously degraded. Then

Some specs of the Philips AD 5060/Sq 8 (1980 price in French francs...)

I got two from this seller and they were perfect, soft and pliable surrounds. His communication was excellent as well so ask about the surround condition if it isn't a crossover

I've been looking at a few on eBay and they have the split surrounds (or near split) so I'll pay close attention.

If you do want to attempt a repair, you'd be looking at the overlapped tinsels here: For replacement, as the others have mentioned, you can picked up a used example. The Philips AD5060/W8 was used in

Not yet. Thats next....

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020 at 9:02 AM w e <sky27709@...> wrote: > MIrrored pair, its the left speaker. > > >

Have you isolated the driver, as in taken the leads off the driver and tested the driver out of the crossover? If you did and I missed it, my apologies, it is just those Philips drivers are fairly

MIrrored pair, its the left speaker.

AD5060/W8, B&O also used that driver. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=AD5060%2FW8&_sacat=0

Are yours mirrored or not? Which side do u need if mirrored. Easier to replace the boards on that side rather then removing driver? Some of them are glued in not just screwed?

Jack - what did you search for to pull up 5? wrote:

I can definitely hear the "working" driver in the other speaker, and I tried different program material to eliminate the chance it's just the recording. I agree that finding a used one is the best

There are currently 5 of them on Ebay right now.

Find a used one. I think I have two of that board.

In case I can't make that determination, is there a generally agreed upon comparable replacement?

That cone operates in the midbass and low midrange frequencies, which can be difficult to localize. Given that there's a fair bit of crossover between it and the woofer, it's understandable that it'd

The 5" midrange cone, which should be pretty obvious, right?

A rolled up newspaper tube held against your ear and in front of a suspect driver can help. To be sure, though, a soldering iron to disconnect the leads and an ohm meter will tell you more. (The piezo

I have a driver that seems to be dead but want to make sure.