This is a replacement that has been well received. A good choice if you can’t find the original 10” in a 12” frame woofer.?
On Tue, Jan 21, 2025 at 10:09?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. Looks like I should have pulled the grills when I purchased the speakers. I've been hoodwinked. The images are what I found while doing a cap replacement. Any opinion on these and what aftermarket would you suggest for a 12" hole that I have available? Something reasonable please.?
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I have 3 of original woofers for dq10’s with good surrounds… if you can’t find them get back to me,?
On Tue, Jan 21, 2025 at 10:23?AM Bill Meyerhoff via <bmeyerhoff= [email protected]> wrote: Yeah this is not an Advent Driver but they can be had easily. Try Simply Speakers?
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Yeah this is not an Advent Driver but they can be had easily. Try Simply Speakers?
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Hey all. Looks like I should have pulled the grills when I purchased the speakers. I've been hoodwinked. The images are what I found while doing a cap replacement. Any opinion on these and what aftermarket would you suggest for a 12" hole that I have available? Something reasonable please.?
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I guess I'll never know...cause I'm not tearing those heavy bi#$hes down again...unless I have to. Lol
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 6:28?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: What was the upside of the resistors change? I was told unless there was obvious visual damage, not to worry. Now I'm kicking myself. I don't have any kind of testing meters so I just took Madisound expertise for gospel. I've got one completed and buttoned up and it sounds outstanding..so there's that. Whatcha think? But now I'm going to wonder ?
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 6:45?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I replaced all on dq10’s with mills resistors. It made a sig difference as in my second set I didn’t change them. I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.? On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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What was the upside of the resistors change? I was told unless there was obvious visual damage, not to worry. Now I'm kicking myself. I don't have any kind of testing meters so I just took Madisound expertise for gospel. I've got one completed and buttoned up and it sounds outstanding..so there's that. Whatcha think? But now I'm going to wonder ?
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 6:45?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I replaced all on dq10’s with mills resistors. It made a sig difference as in my second set I didn’t change them. I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.? On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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I replaced all on dq10’s with mills resistors. It made a sig difference as in my second set I didn’t change them.
I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.? On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.?
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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So long as the newer capacitors are made to handle an equal or higher voltage, then you’re in good shape. ? Higher voltage is fine. ?A lower voltage is not.
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On Jan 18, 2025, at 12:50, Mickey McAuliff via groups.io <mickeymcauliff@...> wrote:
? Ah brother thank you for the great news. Huge relief.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025, 12:48?PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency. On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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?Not only will higher voltage not hurt, it will actually be better. This is particularly true on woofers and midranges. No need to go over 400 volts.?
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Ah brother thank you for the great news. Huge relief.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025, 12:48?PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency. On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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?Charlie Conger 713 472 9140
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On Jan 16, 2025, at 4:30?AM, Mickey McAuliff via groups.io <mickeymcauliff@...> wrote:
? Thx Charlie. I looked at my oscilloscope...crap I don't have one. Lol. I looked at my new Solen caps and I can't see anything that might give an indication. Oh well I'm just going to install them and call it a day. Thank you for all the input. Mick
It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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Thx Charlie. I looked at my oscilloscope...crap I don't have one. Lol. I looked at my new Solen caps and I can't see anything that might give an indication. Oh well I'm just going to install them and call it a day. Thank you for all the input. Mick
It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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Exactly Charlie. That's it! Thanks for your input. Wasn't sure. Mick
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 11:11?AM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote: He may be referring to the outer plate of the capacitor being attached to the lowest potential in the circuit, the black or ground side. This does have an effect on low level circuitry like preamps. I doubt seriously it would have any affect whatsoever on a crossover capacitor. As such with any film capacitor, you should be able to ignore polarity. Placing the label up is visually more appealing and potentially useful.?
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Could the rattle possibly be coming from the woofer? Have the foam surrounds ever been replaced?
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He may be referring to the outer plate of the capacitor being attached to the lowest potential in the circuit, the black or ground side. This does have an effect on low level circuitry like preamps. I doubt seriously it would have any affect whatsoever on a crossover capacitor. As such with any film capacitor, you should be able to ignore polarity. Placing the label up is visually more appealing and potentially useful.?
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You have to determine that it is indeed the mid driver that is causing the "rattle or buzz". There are a number of places that can rebuild these - Simply Speakers and Millersound. Regnar should be a last resort as they are very cost prohibitive and unreliable from what others have said. Madisound or Meniscus are additional options. It is wise to stick to the original factory (I believe Vifa)? replacement if ?necessary.
On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 12:56:26 PM EST, Bill Meyerhoff via groups.io <bmeyerhoff@...> wrote:
check and make sure the rubber surround has not com loose from frame allowing air to pass through. If it has it will need to be re-glued.
Bill Meyerhoff
Bill Meyerhoff
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Bill Meyerhoff
Charlie Conger