I replaced all on dq10’s with mills resistors. It made a sig difference as in my second set I didn’t change them.
I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.? On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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I’m curious as to whether you checked the values on all the resistors on each board. I found most had drifted significantly on my DQ-20s and replaced them all.?
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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So long as the newer capacitors are made to handle an equal or higher voltage, then you’re in good shape. ? Higher voltage is fine. ?A lower voltage is not.
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On Jan 18, 2025, at 12:50, Mickey McAuliff via groups.io <mickeymcauliff@...> wrote:
? Ah brother thank you for the great news. Huge relief.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025, 12:48?PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency. On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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?Not only will higher voltage not hurt, it will actually be better. This is particularly true on woofers and midranges. No need to go over 400 volts.?
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Ah brother thank you for the great news. Huge relief.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025, 12:48?PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency. On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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Voltage higher won’t hurt a thing in speaker xo.? In fact some say they won’t get stressed. The uf rating is important as a change will effect crossover frequency.
On Sat, Jan 18, 2025 at 3:42?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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Hey all. About to do the cap replacement and opened my speakers up to find something that made me wonder...all of the micofarads are correct but the voltage is different. Madisound sent per the schematic but it didn't list voltage. The sent one are all 400v but most old ones are 150..the bass crossover is 68uF but thr old one is 35vac..explains why the new one 3x the size. Please advise as I have my speakers spread all over my wife's kitchen island. Thx Mick
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?Charlie Conger 713 472 9140
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On Jan 16, 2025, at 4:30?AM, Mickey McAuliff via groups.io <mickeymcauliff@...> wrote:
? Thx Charlie. I looked at my oscilloscope...crap I don't have one. Lol. I looked at my new Solen caps and I can't see anything that might give an indication. Oh well I'm just going to install them and call it a day. Thank you for all the input. Mick
It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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Thx Charlie. I looked at my oscilloscope...crap I don't have one. Lol. I looked at my new Solen caps and I can't see anything that might give an indication. Oh well I'm just going to install them and call it a day. Thank you for all the input. Mick
It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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It would not hurt to wire the cap this way; it is just not required. You need an oscilloscope to determine which cap lead has the outer foil attached on most caps. It is this side that is most likely to pick up hum unless it is attached to ref (ground). A few caps, even non-polarized, have bands around one end to indicate this connection.
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Exactly Charlie. That's it! Thanks for your input. Wasn't sure. Mick
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 11:11?AM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote: He may be referring to the outer plate of the capacitor being attached to the lowest potential in the circuit, the black or ground side. This does have an effect on low level circuitry like preamps. I doubt seriously it would have any affect whatsoever on a crossover capacitor. As such with any film capacitor, you should be able to ignore polarity. Placing the label up is visually more appealing and potentially useful.?
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Could the rattle possibly be coming from the woofer? Have the foam surrounds ever been replaced?
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He may be referring to the outer plate of the capacitor being attached to the lowest potential in the circuit, the black or ground side. This does have an effect on low level circuitry like preamps. I doubt seriously it would have any affect whatsoever on a crossover capacitor. As such with any film capacitor, you should be able to ignore polarity. Placing the label up is visually more appealing and potentially useful.?
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You have to determine that it is indeed the mid driver that is causing the "rattle or buzz". There are a number of places that can rebuild these - Simply Speakers and Millersound. Regnar should be a last resort as they are very cost prohibitive and unreliable from what others have said. Madisound or Meniscus are additional options. It is wise to stick to the original factory (I believe Vifa)? replacement if ?necessary.
On Wednesday, January 15, 2025 at 12:56:26 PM EST, Bill Meyerhoff via groups.io <bmeyerhoff@...> wrote:
check and make sure the rubber surround has not com loose from frame allowing air to pass through. If it has it will need to be re-glued.
Bill Meyerhoff
Bill Meyerhoff
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check and make sure the rubber surround has not com loose from frame allowing air to pass through. If it has it will need to be re-glued.
Bill Meyerhoff
Bill Meyerhoff
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Miller Sound may be able to rebuild and tune them.
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On Jan 15, 2025, at 8:59?AM, richard adelberg via groups.io <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
? I’m all for saving older speaker, I’ve save dozen of Bozak symphony and several dq10’s
None of the subsequent models came close to dq10’s with dq1 subs and lp1 active xo.?
Only you can decide what to invest in dq20’s. No where near as many were made of 20, 20i. So much less for parts!!!? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:54?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: I guess I look at it differently. I see an unusually large amount of 10's and parts for sale and very rarely see 20's come up parts included. Which leads me to believe folks are holding on to theirs. Maybe a shit-ton more 10's were produced Which solidify's my point further. As far as the production of sound...that's a very personal thing. It's in the beholders ear. We all hear differently and how we like it to sound. (Subjective). I appreciate the input though and will take it into account.? Mick
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:38?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Yes, between new caps 225$ and two mid drivers ( unless u find matching original). You’re prob between 509-600$ . They realistically sell for 509-750$ . Guys asking for more are pipe dreams as dq 10’s sound far better and can buy for under 500$ . I recapped several sets . Bought each for 350$ and 250 for caps. You just have to decide how much you want to invest in them and if you can find an original mid driver? Otherwise you need to change both speakers mid to match. Only you can decide.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:32?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Render them not economical to fix? Do you mean that the expense is too much for the value ratio? Just trying to clarify the options you present.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:27?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I see Ragnar doesn’t have them, Madisound may have something simalar. But would have to change both speakers. Not as many dq20 made for parts! That could render them not economical to fix? Between caps and two mid drivers.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hit me up when you see a couple. I've been there many times looking at 20's 'parts'. 10's abound.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:14?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Find a used one on eBay. I have many drivers for d10’s. None for 20(I) On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:13?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Good morning ladies and gents! As per my first new member post yesterday about doing a cap refresh on my DQ20's, I've also noticed a new rattle in my mids! (Oh bummer)..any suggestions on a direct replacement if it comes to that? I'll attach an image just for a refresh for your memory. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Mick <20250107_042323.jpg>
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I’m all for saving older speaker, I’ve save dozen of Bozak symphony and several dq10’s
None of the subsequent models came close to dq10’s with dq1 subs and lp1 active xo.?
Only you can decide what to invest in dq20’s. No where near as many were made of 20, 20i. So much less for parts!!!?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:54?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: I guess I look at it differently. I see an unusually large amount of 10's and parts for sale and very rarely see 20's come up parts included. Which leads me to believe folks are holding on to theirs. Maybe a shit-ton more 10's were produced Which solidify's my point further. As far as the production of sound...that's a very personal thing. It's in the beholders ear. We all hear differently and how we like it to sound. (Subjective). I appreciate the input though and will take it into account.? Mick
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:38?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Yes, between new caps 225$ and two mid drivers ( unless u find matching original). You’re prob between 509-600$ . They realistically sell for 509-750$ . Guys asking for more are pipe dreams as dq 10’s sound far better and can buy for under 500$ . I recapped several sets . Bought each for 350$ and 250 for caps. You just have to decide how much you want to invest in them and if you can find an original mid driver? Otherwise you need to change both speakers mid to match. Only you can decide.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:32?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Render them not economical to fix? Do you mean that the expense is too much for the value ratio? Just trying to clarify the options you present.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:27?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I see Ragnar doesn’t have them, Madisound may have something simalar. But would have to change both speakers. Not as many dq20 made for parts! That could render them not economical to fix? Between caps and two mid drivers.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hit me up when you see a couple. I've been there many times looking at 20's 'parts'. 10's abound.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:14?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Find a used one on eBay. I have many drivers for d10’s. None for 20(I) On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:13?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Good morning ladies and gents! As per my first new member post yesterday about doing a cap refresh on my DQ20's, I've also noticed a new rattle in my mids! (Oh bummer)..any suggestions on a direct replacement if it comes to that? I'll attach an image just for a refresh for your memory. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Mick 
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I guess I look at it differently. I see an unusually large amount of 10's and parts for sale and very rarely see 20's come up parts included. Which leads me to believe folks are holding on to theirs. Maybe a shit-ton more 10's were produced Which solidify's my point further. As far as the production of sound...that's a very personal thing. It's in the beholders ear. We all hear differently and how we like it to sound. (Subjective). I appreciate the input though and will take it into account.? Mick
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:38?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Yes, between new caps 225$ and two mid drivers ( unless u find matching original). You’re prob between 509-600$ . They realistically sell for 509-750$ . Guys asking for more are pipe dreams as dq 10’s sound far better and can buy for under 500$ . I recapped several sets . Bought each for 350$ and 250 for caps. You just have to decide how much you want to invest in them and if you can find an original mid driver? Otherwise you need to change both speakers mid to match. Only you can decide.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:32?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Render them not economical to fix? Do you mean that the expense is too much for the value ratio? Just trying to clarify the options you present.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:27?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I see Ragnar doesn’t have them, Madisound may have something simalar. But would have to change both speakers. Not as many dq20 made for parts! That could render them not economical to fix? Between caps and two mid drivers.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hit me up when you see a couple. I've been there many times looking at 20's 'parts'. 10's abound.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:14?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Find a used one on eBay. I have many drivers for d10’s. None for 20(I) On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:13?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Good morning ladies and gents! As per my first new member post yesterday about doing a cap refresh on my DQ20's, I've also noticed a new rattle in my mids! (Oh bummer)..any suggestions on a direct replacement if it comes to that? I'll attach an image just for a refresh for your memory. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Mick 
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Yes, between new caps 225$ and two mid drivers ( unless u find matching original). You’re prob between 509-600$ . They realistically sell for 509-750$ . Guys asking for more are pipe dreams as dq 10’s sound far better and can buy for under 500$ . I recapped several sets . Bought each for 350$ and 250 for caps. You just have to decide how much you want to invest in them and if you can find an original mid driver? Otherwise you need to change both speakers mid to match. Only you can decide.?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:32?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Render them not economical to fix? Do you mean that the expense is too much for the value ratio? Just trying to clarify the options you present.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:27?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I see Ragnar doesn’t have them, Madisound may have something simalar. But would have to change both speakers. Not as many dq20 made for parts! That could render them not economical to fix? Between caps and two mid drivers.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hit me up when you see a couple. I've been there many times looking at 20's 'parts'. 10's abound.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:14?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Find a used one on eBay. I have many drivers for d10’s. None for 20(I) On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:13?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Good morning ladies and gents! As per my first new member post yesterday about doing a cap refresh on my DQ20's, I've also noticed a new rattle in my mids! (Oh bummer)..any suggestions on a direct replacement if it comes to that? I'll attach an image just for a refresh for your memory. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Mick 
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Render them not economical to fix? Do you mean that the expense is too much for the value ratio? Just trying to clarify the options you present.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:27?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: I see Ragnar doesn’t have them, Madisound may have something simalar. But would have to change both speakers. Not as many dq20 made for parts! That could render them not economical to fix? Between caps and two mid drivers.? On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Hit me up when you see a couple. I've been there many times looking at 20's 'parts'. 10's abound.
On Wed, Jan 15, 2025, 5:14?AM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg= [email protected]> wrote: Find a used one on eBay. I have many drivers for d10’s. None for 20(I) On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 8:13?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Good morning ladies and gents! As per my first new member post yesterday about doing a cap refresh on my DQ20's, I've also noticed a new rattle in my mids! (Oh bummer)..any suggestions on a direct replacement if it comes to that? I'll attach an image just for a refresh for your memory. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Mick 
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Charlie Conger
Bill Meyerhoff