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Hello Cubdog,

I may be confusing your name with someone else, but I think you posted the file that
suggests removing the DQ-10 piezo. I want to do this. The file says:

"REMOVE the super-tweeter and its associated crossover stuff. On the schematic, that's
parts labeled R6 and 7, C7 and 8, and L5 (and the driver, of course). this yields a MUCH
better top end with less hash in the frequency extremes."

This sounds easy enough, but should there be any other modifications to allow the tweeter
to play signals above 12.5 khz? The piezo has a high pass filter and the woofer has a low
pass, but the drivers inbetween have bandpass filters that slope in both directions. If you
take out the piezo and its high pass filter, you're left with a tweeter that slopes down at
12.5 khz. I may be wrong, but I think this is the case. It's quite possible this could go
unnoticed since those freqs are difficult to hear anyway.

btw, I'd like to replace the original tweeter and put in a 3/4" ScanSpeak D2008 (from a
dq-20). I figure I'll give it a try since it sounds so nice in the 20's.

Any comments are warmly welcomed!

Many thanks to JP for the recent capacitor tutorial. It's greatly appreciated!

Mark

Hello Dahlquist folks,

I'd like to remove my piezo supertweeters, but I'd like to do it the correct way. Can anyone point me to a crossover schematic that reflects this modification? If I pull the piezo and don't change the crossover, frequencies above 12.5 khz will be filtered out.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Mark

Hi JP,

Awesome info. This is exactly what I needed! Many thanks. Based on
what you added, I think I have the know-how and skills to try it
myself, spend less, and get, most likely, a better result.

Do you happen to have further info/instructions regarding converting
the DQ10s to a mirror-imaged pair? I have read through the
instructions in our group's files, but a little more guidance on
tools and parts needed would be very helpful.

Thanks again!

Michael

--- In Dahlquist@..., "JP" <hrothgar1982@...> wrote:

Michael,



First off, you're welcome. I'm glad to know it was useful for

someone.

Now, as to your questions, if I remember correctly, it cost just

under

$60 shipped from Madisound for the capacitors for both crossovers.

That

included mostly Solens polypropylenes, the Bennic electrolytics for

the

midbass, and the small value Bennic & GE polyprops for the

supertweeter.

Using 80ìF Solens polyprops for the midbass (if you can afford it,
this is a good idea, but will be a little more difficult to fit in

the

crossover) would bring the shipped cost to ~$100.

Regarding the Regnar kit, I've heard from someone who purchased

that kit

that it contains Bennic polypropylenes for most of the caps and

Bennic

electrolytics for the midbass (the reason I chose this type in this
recapping). Bennic brand caps are less expensive than Solens (the
equivalent from Madisound would cost ~$50) and appear to be held in
slightly lower esteem. This means that my recapping should be

sonically

superior to theirs for a fraction of the price. According to the

Regnar

website, their kit consists of these caps, a schematic of the

crossover

(such as is in our Files section here), and instructions like I

posted a

link to.

As to tools required, you won't require anything special. First,

you'll

need a phillips screwdriver (or flat bladed, the screws seemed to

have

changed during production) to remove the back screen and remove

those

screws holding the crossover board in place. Then you'll need a
soldering gun (100/140 watts) as your typical 40watt soldering iron
won't be sufficient to melt the mass of solder in the holes. Beyond
that, a pair of hemostats (aka "Kelly forceps" or "clamps" or "roach
clips") are great to remove the old cap leads and more easily

manipulate

the new leads into the holes, though a long, narrow pair of needle

nose

pliers can be used a bit more awkwardly. That's it aside from

solder of

your choice -- I used cheap ~$4 silver-content solder from Radio

Shack

that's about equal in performance to ridiculously

expensive "audiophile"

brand solder. Solder wick (braided copper wire that "sucks" solder

out

of the way) could be handy, but isn't necessary. If you can borrow

the

soldering gun, you can keep the tools price below ~$5 and if you

can't,

you can keep it under ~$30. You'd need to buy these tools with the
Regnar kit anyways.

If you've any other questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to

answer.

- JP


--- In Dahlquist@..., "mlocker2" <mlocker2@> wrote:

Hi JP,

Thanks for posting this. I went to the link & printed out the

info!

Questions: Regnar sells a cap upgrade, so do you have any idea how
your improvements compare to theirs? Also, can you compare costs?
Regnars upgrades are $161 plus shipping. Finally, what kind of
equipment/tools do you need for such an undertaking?

I ask all this b/c I've been considering purchasing the upgrade

kit

from Regnar, and if I can do it myself for a lot less, with at

least

as

good a result, I'd rather try it on my own.

Thanks again!

Michael

--- In Dahlquist@..., "JP" hrothgar1982@ wrote:

Just in case this might help someone, I've posted a brief

tutorial

over

at Sound Thinking to recapping the DQ-10 crossover. I did

include a

brief mention of what the capacitor codes equate to in

microfarads

and

included a couple of pictures.

You needn't be registered there to view this thread:

<>



- JP

Michael,



First off, you're welcome. I'm glad to know it was useful for someone.

Now, as to your questions, if I remember correctly, it cost just under
$60 shipped from Madisound for the capacitors for both crossovers. That
included mostly Solens polypropylenes, the Bennic electrolytics for the
midbass, and the small value Bennic & GE polyprops for the supertweeter.
Using 80ìF Solens polyprops for the midbass (if you can afford it,
this is a good idea, but will be a little more difficult to fit in the
crossover) would bring the shipped cost to ~$100.

Regarding the Regnar kit, I've heard from someone who purchased that kit
that it contains Bennic polypropylenes for most of the caps and Bennic
electrolytics for the midbass (the reason I chose this type in this
recapping). Bennic brand caps are less expensive than Solens (the
equivalent from Madisound would cost ~$50) and appear to be held in
slightly lower esteem. This means that my recapping should be sonically
superior to theirs for a fraction of the price. According to the Regnar
website, their kit consists of these caps, a schematic of the crossover
(such as is in our Files section here), and instructions like I posted a
link to.

As to tools required, you won't require anything special. First, you'll
need a phillips screwdriver (or flat bladed, the screws seemed to have
changed during production) to remove the back screen and remove those
screws holding the crossover board in place. Then you'll need a
soldering gun (100/140 watts) as your typical 40watt soldering iron
won't be sufficient to melt the mass of solder in the holes. Beyond
that, a pair of hemostats (aka "Kelly forceps" or "clamps" or "roach
clips") are great to remove the old cap leads and more easily manipulate
the new leads into the holes, though a long, narrow pair of needle nose
pliers can be used a bit more awkwardly. That's it aside from solder of
your choice -- I used cheap ~$4 silver-content solder from Radio Shack
that's about equal in performance to ridiculously expensive "audiophile"
brand solder. Solder wick (braided copper wire that "sucks" solder out
of the way) could be handy, but isn't necessary. If you can borrow the
soldering gun, you can keep the tools price below ~$5 and if you can't,
you can keep it under ~$30. You'd need to buy these tools with the
Regnar kit anyways.

If you've any other questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer.

- JP


--- In Dahlquist@..., "mlocker2" <mlocker2@...> wrote:

Hi JP,

Thanks for posting this. I went to the link & printed out the info!

Questions: Regnar sells a cap upgrade, so do you have any idea how
your improvements compare to theirs? Also, can you compare costs?
Regnars upgrades are $161 plus shipping. Finally, what kind of
equipment/tools do you need for such an undertaking?

I ask all this b/c I've been considering purchasing the upgrade kit
from Regnar, and if I can do it myself for a lot less, with at least

as

good a result, I'd rather try it on my own.

Thanks again!

Michael

--- In Dahlquist@..., "JP" hrothgar1982@ wrote:

Just in case this might help someone, I've posted a brief tutorial

over

at Sound Thinking to recapping the DQ-10 crossover. I did include a
brief mention of what the capacitor codes equate to in microfarads

and

included a couple of pictures.

You needn't be registered there to view this thread:

<>



- JP

Hi JP,

Thanks for posting this. I went to the link & printed out the info!

Questions: Regnar sells a cap upgrade, so do you have any idea how
your improvements compare to theirs? Also, can you compare costs?
Regnars upgrades are $161 plus shipping. Finally, what kind of
equipment/tools do you need for such an undertaking?

I ask all this b/c I've been considering purchasing the upgrade kit
from Regnar, and if I can do it myself for a lot less, with at least as
good a result, I'd rather try it on my own.

Thanks again!

Michael

--- In Dahlquist@..., "JP" <hrothgar1982@...> wrote:

Just in case this might help someone, I've posted a brief tutorial

over

at Sound Thinking to recapping the DQ-10 crossover. I did include a
brief mention of what the capacitor codes equate to in microfarads and
included a couple of pictures.

You needn't be registered there to view this thread:

<>



- JP

Just in case this might help someone, I've posted a brief tutorial over at Sound Thinking to recapping the DQ-10 crossover. I did include a brief mention of what the capacitor codes equate to in microfarads and included a couple of pictures.

You needn't be registered there to view this thread:

?

- JP

I use a modded Sony ES CD player, a Thorens TD150 II/Well Tempered
Arm, and a Mitchell Cotter Preamp System. It's all old stuff, but
sounds soooo good and it's paid for...
Dave

--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, Sandra Wells wrote:
>
> Hi Dobbhill, I bet your system sounds great! I know that VTL's are
excellent amps, although I've never heard the 100's. What is your
source? I think if you contacted Regnar, they may be able to help you
with the serial number. Happy listening, Sandra
>
> dobbhill .> wrote: I just put them back
together and WOW!!!
> Now I know why they impressed me so much in 1978. Mine are stock,
> factory mirrored, yellow caps. I'm driving them with VTL Compact
> 100's (1988 vintage) and a tube preamp. My reference speakers are
> Infinity IRS Gammas and the only thing obviously missing is the bottom
> octave.
> Is there a way to "date" the DQ-10's by serial number or other method?
> D
>
> --- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "dobbhill" wrote:
> >
> > I am currently re-foaming my woofers and was wondering if the
> > replacement dust caps should be vented or sealed. I believe the
> > originals were sealed. Would venting the voice coils from the front
> > (via the dust cap) change the response of the woofer for the better?
> > Anyone with experience or knowledge please chime in!!
> > Thanks, D
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.
Great rates starting at 1/min.
>

---

How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low

I use a modded Sony ES CD player, a Thorens TD150 II/Well Tempered
Arm, and a Mitchell Cotter Preamp System. It's all old stuff, but
sounds soooo good and it's paid for...
Dave

--- In Dahlquist@..., Sandra Wells <smw30@...> wrote:

Hi Dobbhill, I bet your system sounds great! I know that VTL's are

excellent amps, although I've never heard the 100's. What is your
source? I think if you contacted Regnar, they may be able to help you
with the serial number. Happy listening, Sandra

dobbhill <dobbhill@...> wrote: I just put them back

together and WOW!!!

Now I know why they impressed me so much in 1978. Mine are stock,
factory mirrored, yellow caps. I'm driving them with VTL Compact
100's (1988 vintage) and a tube preamp. My reference speakers are
Infinity IRS Gammas and the only thing obviously missing is the bottom
octave.
Is there a way to "date" the DQ-10's by serial number or other method?
D

--- In Dahlquist@..., "dobbhill" <dobbhill@> wrote:

I am currently re-foaming my woofers and was wondering if the
replacement dust caps should be vented or sealed. I believe the
originals were sealed. Would venting the voice coils from the front
(via the dust cap) change the response of the woofer for the better?
Anyone with experience or knowledge please chime in!!
Thanks, D

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.

Great rates starting at 1?/min.

Hi Dobbhill, I bet your system sounds great! I know that VTL's are excellent amps, although I've never heard the 100's. What is your source? I think if you contacted Regnar, they may be able to help you with the serial number. Happy listening, Sandra

dobbhill wrote:

I just put them back together and WOW!!!
Now I know why they impressed me so much in 1978. Mine are stock,
factory mirrored, yellow caps. I'm driving them with VTL Compact
100's (1988 vintage) and a tube preamp. My reference speakers are
Infinity IRS Gammas and the only thing obviously missing is the bottom
octave.
Is there a way to "date" the DQ-10's by serial number or other method?
D

--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "dobbhill" .> wrote:
>
> I am currently re-foaming my woofers and was wondering if the
> replacement dust caps should be vented or sealed. I believe the
> originals were sealed. Would venting the voice coils from the front
> (via the dust cap) change the response of the woofer for the better?
> Anyone with experience or knowledge please chime in!!
> Thanks, D
>

---

Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.

I just put them back together and WOW!!!
Now I know why they impressed me so much in 1978. Mine are stock,
factory mirrored, yellow caps. I'm driving them with VTL Compact
100's (1988 vintage) and a tube preamp. My reference speakers are
Infinity IRS Gammas and the only thing obviously missing is the bottom
octave.
Is there a way to "date" the DQ-10's by serial number or other method?
D

VTL Compact 100's?????


--- In Dahlquist@..., "smw30" <smw30@...> wrote:

Hi Michael, congratulations on your upgrades. I am a hard and firm
believer in using tubes with the Dahlquist, but if you're happy

with

what you've upgraded to, that's all that counts. If you ever get

the

chance to demo a tube amp, by all means do it. Make sure it is at
least 45 wpc, I think you will be surprised at the results. I've
heard good things about the Onix CD players, good buy. Keep us
informed on any new upgrades. Sandra




--- In Dahlquist@..., "mlocker2" <mlocker2@> wrote:

All,

Thought I'd share this with you, since you've been so helpful in
advising me on good equipment to consider to enhance the

performance

of my DQ10s.

I've been doing some upgrading this summer!!! Here's what I got,
and what I discovered:

1. Per all the recommendations here, I went out and got a

powerful

amp--Adcom GFA-555. Hooked it up to the HK 3470 Receiver I'd

been

using, so the receiver acted like a pre-amp/tuner. Impression:

I

agree with all of you that the DQ10s like juice :) Sound became
more distinct and cleaner; imaging was clearer, and there just
seemed to be an overall easiness/less strain to the music, even

at

the typically moderate volumes where I like to listen.

2. Got an Onkyo P-301 Preamp, a cousin to the highly rated (per
AudioReview) P-304. I realize it's solid state, not a tube Pre,

so

I may not know yet what I'm missing. When I hooked it up & did

an

A/B comparison of a Pre/Amp combo vs. Receiver/AMP, I noticed

only

subtle differences, and these seemed to be clearer highs and

little

else.

3. Got a Yamaha T-950 Tuner to plug into my Pre. Not a huge
listener to radio, but I definitely sensed an improvement in
reception, quality and clarity of stations and music with the
separate tuner, in relation to the receiver. Bought this based

on

reviews on AudioReview as well.

4. Upgraded my CDP to an Onix XCD-88 with modifications to the
OpAmps. Without a doubt, this seems to me to be the best of all

the

improvements I made this summer!!! All of a sudden, the music
coming out of my CDs seemed to take on an image all its own, and

I

could place voices and instruments on a soundstage like never
before. The magic of having the "speakers disappear" was finally
achieved :) For those of you wondering about your old CDPs, I

can

confirm that technology has evolved significantly, and the

Chinese

units like the Onix are incredible values. I must confess,

however,

that I haven't heard a $2000 CDP ;)

Total for all the items: about $1200, including shipping, which

I

think is a darn good deal for how things are sounding now.

My remaining upgrade goals:

1. Get some good/better quality interconnects and speaker wire.
I've been reading good stuff about Acoustic Research wire, and

the

price certainly can't be beat, but I'd love suggestions if you

have

any.

2. Get some stands to elevate the speakers. Thanks to all of

you

who suggested this.

3. Convert my speakers to a mirror imaged pair. Will probably

go

with the kit Regnar supplies.

4. Upgrade my speakers using the capacitor kit Regnar supplies.

If

anyone has experience with this type of upgrade, please let me

know!

Some more observations:

1. Those of you who may have read my previous questions on how

to

upgrade made some suggestions about subwoofers. My M&K VX-7 (8")
had a rattle, which I easily detected & fixed--loose cap on the
speaker that was easily glued. I really like how this little sub
seems to complement the DQ10s. I have no comparison to what a
bigger sub might sound like, but this sub seems to "flesh out"

the

bass sound, and I do feel, at my listening volumes, that a sub is
necessary with the DQ10s. Of note, I've set the crossover around

60

Hz, below the company's recommended 85 Hz, and it seems to fit
nicely with what is put out by the Dahlquists. Any
similar/different experiences?

2. CDs, and a good CDP, are the way to go over vinyl. Granted,

I

have a 20 year old Technics Linear Tracking turntable, but I ran

a

comparison of vinyl vs. CD using the same album, through my new
Pre/Amp setup, and the dynamics and quality in the CD version

were

simply not there in the vinyl. Maybe this would be different

with

a

better turntable, or maybe I needed to increase the volume when I
played the record, but I'm skeptical.

3. Be patient on Ebay. Got most of my stuff on Ebay, and by
holding back and not jumping into bidding wars, I was able to get

my

stuff for a lot less than it's been typically going for.

4. AudioReview can be a great resource, provided enough people

have

posted reviews on a piece of equipment, and you can mentally

filter

out people who post reviews with significant biases due to price

or

preconceived notions. Best reviews come from those who have a

broad

depth of experience and exposure to equipment, and can make the
comparisons in an objective way.

5. You may have read, in the thread about musical

recommendations,

that I have a handful of recordings I like to use to compare
equipment. One of these used to be the first Boston album, but

with

better equipment, it seemed that the recording was too harsh in

the

highs, and biased in that direction. Interestingly, with my new
setup, the album is much more listenable again, as if the power

of

the amp is somehow "decompressing" and clarifying the dense high
end. Now there's less "ringing," more music. Very happy about
this :)

Hope this makes an interesting read for all of you! Thanks again
for your input and comments.

Michael

I am currently re-foaming my woofers and was wondering if the
replacement dust caps should be vented or sealed. I believe the
originals were sealed. Would venting the voice coils from the front
(via the dust cap) change the response of the woofer for the better?
Anyone with experience or knowledge please chime in!!
Thanks, D

Hi Michael, congratulations on your upgrades. I am a hard and firm
believer in using tubes with the Dahlquist, but if you're happy with
what you've upgraded to, that's all that counts. If you ever get the
chance to demo a tube amp, by all means do it. Make sure it is at
least 45 wpc, I think you will be surprised at the results. I've
heard good things about the Onix CD players, good buy. Keep us
informed on any new upgrades. Sandra




--- In Dahlquist@..., "mlocker2" <mlocker2@...> wrote:

All,

Thought I'd share this with you, since you've been so helpful in
advising me on good equipment to consider to enhance the

performance

of my DQ10s.

I've been doing some upgrading this summer!!! Here's what I got,
and what I discovered:

1. Per all the recommendations here, I went out and got a powerful
amp--Adcom GFA-555. Hooked it up to the HK 3470 Receiver I'd been
using, so the receiver acted like a pre-amp/tuner. Impression: I
agree with all of you that the DQ10s like juice :) Sound became
more distinct and cleaner; imaging was clearer, and there just
seemed to be an overall easiness/less strain to the music, even at
the typically moderate volumes where I like to listen.

2. Got an Onkyo P-301 Preamp, a cousin to the highly rated (per
AudioReview) P-304. I realize it's solid state, not a tube Pre, so
I may not know yet what I'm missing. When I hooked it up & did an
A/B comparison of a Pre/Amp combo vs. Receiver/AMP, I noticed only
subtle differences, and these seemed to be clearer highs and little
else.

3. Got a Yamaha T-950 Tuner to plug into my Pre. Not a huge
listener to radio, but I definitely sensed an improvement in
reception, quality and clarity of stations and music with the
separate tuner, in relation to the receiver. Bought this based on
reviews on AudioReview as well.

4. Upgraded my CDP to an Onix XCD-88 with modifications to the
OpAmps. Without a doubt, this seems to me to be the best of all

the

improvements I made this summer!!! All of a sudden, the music
coming out of my CDs seemed to take on an image all its own, and I
could place voices and instruments on a soundstage like never
before. The magic of having the "speakers disappear" was finally
achieved :) For those of you wondering about your old CDPs, I can
confirm that technology has evolved significantly, and the Chinese
units like the Onix are incredible values. I must confess,

however,

that I haven't heard a $2000 CDP ;)

Total for all the items: about $1200, including shipping, which I
think is a darn good deal for how things are sounding now.

My remaining upgrade goals:

1. Get some good/better quality interconnects and speaker wire.
I've been reading good stuff about Acoustic Research wire, and the
price certainly can't be beat, but I'd love suggestions if you have
any.

2. Get some stands to elevate the speakers. Thanks to all of you
who suggested this.

3. Convert my speakers to a mirror imaged pair. Will probably go
with the kit Regnar supplies.

4. Upgrade my speakers using the capacitor kit Regnar supplies.

If

anyone has experience with this type of upgrade, please let me know!

Some more observations:

1. Those of you who may have read my previous questions on how to
upgrade made some suggestions about subwoofers. My M&K VX-7 (8")
had a rattle, which I easily detected & fixed--loose cap on the
speaker that was easily glued. I really like how this little sub
seems to complement the DQ10s. I have no comparison to what a
bigger sub might sound like, but this sub seems to "flesh out" the
bass sound, and I do feel, at my listening volumes, that a sub is
necessary with the DQ10s. Of note, I've set the crossover around

60

Hz, below the company's recommended 85 Hz, and it seems to fit
nicely with what is put out by the Dahlquists. Any
similar/different experiences?

2. CDs, and a good CDP, are the way to go over vinyl. Granted, I
have a 20 year old Technics Linear Tracking turntable, but I ran a
comparison of vinyl vs. CD using the same album, through my new
Pre/Amp setup, and the dynamics and quality in the CD version were
simply not there in the vinyl. Maybe this would be different with

a

better turntable, or maybe I needed to increase the volume when I
played the record, but I'm skeptical.

3. Be patient on Ebay. Got most of my stuff on Ebay, and by
holding back and not jumping into bidding wars, I was able to get

my

stuff for a lot less than it's been typically going for.

4. AudioReview can be a great resource, provided enough people

have

posted reviews on a piece of equipment, and you can mentally filter
out people who post reviews with significant biases due to price or
preconceived notions. Best reviews come from those who have a

broad

depth of experience and exposure to equipment, and can make the
comparisons in an objective way.

5. You may have read, in the thread about musical recommendations,
that I have a handful of recordings I like to use to compare
equipment. One of these used to be the first Boston album, but

with

better equipment, it seemed that the recording was too harsh in the
highs, and biased in that direction. Interestingly, with my new
setup, the album is much more listenable again, as if the power of
the amp is somehow "decompressing" and clarifying the dense high
end. Now there's less "ringing," more music. Very happy about
this :)

Hope this makes an interesting read for all of you! Thanks again
for your input and comments.

Michael

All,

Thought I'd share this with you, since you've been so helpful in
advising me on good equipment to consider to enhance the performance
of my DQ10s.

I've been doing some upgrading this summer!!! Here's what I got,
and what I discovered:

1. Per all the recommendations here, I went out and got a powerful
amp--Adcom GFA-555. Hooked it up to the HK 3470 Receiver I'd been
using, so the receiver acted like a pre-amp/tuner. Impression: I
agree with all of you that the DQ10s like juice :) Sound became
more distinct and cleaner; imaging was clearer, and there just
seemed to be an overall easiness/less strain to the music, even at
the typically moderate volumes where I like to listen.

2. Got an Onkyo P-301 Preamp, a cousin to the highly rated (per
AudioReview) P-304. I realize it's solid state, not a tube Pre, so
I may not know yet what I'm missing. When I hooked it up & did an
A/B comparison of a Pre/Amp combo vs. Receiver/AMP, I noticed only
subtle differences, and these seemed to be clearer highs and little
else.

3. Got a Yamaha T-950 Tuner to plug into my Pre. Not a huge
listener to radio, but I definitely sensed an improvement in
reception, quality and clarity of stations and music with the
separate tuner, in relation to the receiver. Bought this based on
reviews on AudioReview as well.

4. Upgraded my CDP to an Onix XCD-88 with modifications to the
OpAmps. Without a doubt, this seems to me to be the best of all the
improvements I made this summer!!! All of a sudden, the music
coming out of my CDs seemed to take on an image all its own, and I
could place voices and instruments on a soundstage like never
before. The magic of having the "speakers disappear" was finally
achieved :) For those of you wondering about your old CDPs, I can
confirm that technology has evolved significantly, and the Chinese
units like the Onix are incredible values. I must confess, however,
that I haven't heard a $2000 CDP ;)

Total for all the items: about $1200, including shipping, which I
think is a darn good deal for how things are sounding now.

My remaining upgrade goals:

1. Get some good/better quality interconnects and speaker wire.
I've been reading good stuff about Acoustic Research wire, and the
price certainly can't be beat, but I'd love suggestions if you have
any.

2. Get some stands to elevate the speakers. Thanks to all of you
who suggested this.

3. Convert my speakers to a mirror imaged pair. Will probably go
with the kit Regnar supplies.

4. Upgrade my speakers using the capacitor kit Regnar supplies. If
anyone has experience with this type of upgrade, please let me know!

Some more observations:

1. Those of you who may have read my previous questions on how to
upgrade made some suggestions about subwoofers. My M&K VX-7 (8")
had a rattle, which I easily detected & fixed--loose cap on the
speaker that was easily glued. I really like how this little sub
seems to complement the DQ10s. I have no comparison to what a
bigger sub might sound like, but this sub seems to "flesh out" the
bass sound, and I do feel, at my listening volumes, that a sub is
necessary with the DQ10s. Of note, I've set the crossover around 60
Hz, below the company's recommended 85 Hz, and it seems to fit
nicely with what is put out by the Dahlquists. Any
similar/different experiences?

2. CDs, and a good CDP, are the way to go over vinyl. Granted, I
have a 20 year old Technics Linear Tracking turntable, but I ran a
comparison of vinyl vs. CD using the same album, through my new
Pre/Amp setup, and the dynamics and quality in the CD version were
simply not there in the vinyl. Maybe this would be different with a
better turntable, or maybe I needed to increase the volume when I
played the record, but I'm skeptical.

3. Be patient on Ebay. Got most of my stuff on Ebay, and by
holding back and not jumping into bidding wars, I was able to get my
stuff for a lot less than it's been typically going for.

4. AudioReview can be a great resource, provided enough people have
posted reviews on a piece of equipment, and you can mentally filter
out people who post reviews with significant biases due to price or
preconceived notions. Best reviews come from those who have a broad
depth of experience and exposure to equipment, and can make the
comparisons in an objective way.

5. You may have read, in the thread about musical recommendations,
that I have a handful of recordings I like to use to compare
equipment. One of these used to be the first Boston album, but with
better equipment, it seemed that the recording was too harsh in the
highs, and biased in that direction. Interestingly, with my new
setup, the album is much more listenable again, as if the power of
the amp is somehow "decompressing" and clarifying the dense high
end. Now there's less "ringing," more music. Very happy about
this :)

Hope this makes an interesting read for all of you! Thanks again
for your input and comments.

Michael

You might want to contact Regnar about building one, they do sell a column stand for the DQ10's. They may be able to help you.? Other than that, I don't know of anybody else that would sell one. Sandra

JP wrote:

Greetings all, I've a bit of a request if its no bother. A friend of
mine has been pestering me for information on how to build a pair of
good stands for the DQ-10 and in my failure to find information via
Google, I'd thought I'd pick your brains. Would any of you happen to
have the necessary measurements or, better yet, plans to build such
stands? They needn't be clones of the originals and optimized height
would be preferable.

Thanks much,
- JP

---

Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the

Greetings all, I've a bit of a request if its no bother. A friend of
mine has been pestering me for information on how to build a pair of
good stands for the DQ-10 and in my failure to find information via
Google, I'd thought I'd pick your brains. Would any of you happen to
have the necessary measurements or, better yet, plans to build such
stands? They needn't be clones of the originals and optimized height
would be preferable.

Thanks much,
- JP

Hello Dahlquist friends!

I am planning on rewiring my DQ-10's and resealing the woofer
compartment. I see Layne Audio is offering replacement speakers.
Has anyone out there tried one of these?
()
I don't want to get too far away from the original but I do want better
sound if it is possible.

Thanks!

--- In Dahlquist@..., "durskoenig" <durs@...> wrote:

Hi Everybody,

I have been following your posts because I am gearing up to modify

my

DQ-10's. Great sound must be addictive, one wants more and more

to be

satisfied.

Since first aquiring my DQ-10's four years ago I have been noticing
what an important job the recording engineers and producers have on
the final sound. Lou Reed's "Walk on the Wild Side" was just

playing.

His voice sounds like he is in the room, the bass sounds real, the
soundstage had depth and width. Dana Owen's (Queen Latifah)
"California Dreaming" is another song that just played. When I

close

my eyes she too is in the room. Anyway, the reason I write, do you
have recordings to recommend that allow your Dahlquist speakers to

shine?

Durski
Forestville, CA

All,

FWIW, although I'm new to DQ-10s, I've been using many of the same
recordings to do comparative listening for years. I am a
former/hibernating woodwind player, so I think I have a decent ear
and perception of live sound, both natural and amplified.

Ironically, much of what I use to listen to comes from around the
era when the DQ-10s were designed!!! Maybe it's not so ironic ;)

Here's my list, all CDs:

Steely Dan's Babylon Sisters: great dynamics, very clean sound, yet
can be very dense. Donald Fagen's full voice tonality is hard to
capture. Lots of different instruments to listen to/for. First
heard some new details in this song listening to a pair of Vandy 3A
Signatures (e.g., Fagen's wails between verses, use of bass
clarinet), but these same details show up nicely in my 10s.

Chuck Mangione's Soft: From his Chase the Clouds Away album.
Features Esther Satterwhite, one of the best female jazz voices I've
been exposed to. Capturing the nuances of HER voice is also quite
revealing. Additionally, there's very subtle drum brush work on
here, and alto flute, and picking up the imaging clearly can be
quite a challenge. If you're never heard the song, you're in for a
treat! Played this as a demo down in a stereo store in Peoria, IL
that does Dahlquist rebuilds, and the owners wanted to get their own
copy of the CD :)

Brahm's Clarinet Quintet: I have a rendition performed by Gervase
de Peyer from the '60s, I believe, that is hard to come by on CD
(finally got one some years ago). Good speakers reveal intense
imaging and details, and you can almost detect how the 5 musicians
move in their seats, as their bodies capture the changes in mood and
dynamics. Yes, you can also detect the squeaking of chairs :) For
those of you woodwind fans who like clarinet, I recommend you listen
to de Peyer if you like rich, dark sound.

Holst--The Planets: Have a DDD recording by the Montreal Symphony
that really kicks. First movement, Mars, has huge dynamics and
brass--awesome demo piece!

Boston--More than a Feeling: used to use this a lot to demo, but
really good equipment shows that the recording is flawed by too much
high end--very harsh to the ears--so I don't use it much anymore.
Good for boombox-type equipment though.

Pink Floyd--Dark Side of the Moon: Jump right to the ringing alarm
clock section ;)

All of these sound great on the 10s, BTW, and that's why I fell in
love with the Dahlquist sound 20 years ago--if audio is supposed to
replicate music, to my ears, Dahlquist (and maybe Vandersteen) has
come closest.

Michael