开云体育

Just a suggestion. I wish everyone would include their location on the
personal information page. Some of us might be close enough to visit if
we knew where we all lived.

cubdog

Sounds like you will have a sweet Dahlquist room. There was a
discusion a while back on stacking 10's on AudioAsylum, it might be
worth a search to garner some info.If I recall correctly the upper was
inverted and the side panels were removed and replaced with a long one
to connect the two.
You might want to consider stacking them on DQ1W subwoofers and
acquiring a Dahlquist LP1 active crossover-this crossover is even more
prized than the 10 and is used still by modern speaker makers.
MORE POWER well yes at least another 555 for the 10's and something
to run the 28's and something for the subs. Wish I was in your
neighborhood I would love to hear your Dahlquist showroom. Sounds like
a fun project.
John

Hi,

I am going to stack my 10s (more later) and I would
rather have too much power than not enough so I will
bridge 1 adcom per stack. I am at a position where I
can finally afford to go over kill on this go around
of AV room design

My planned equipment is a plasma and DQ all around.
After getting 1/2 way w/plan realized a few ideas
needed to be change. 10s in the rear don't fit well
enough in the room so what to do? A friend told me
about stacking which would also give me more sound up
front. Since I have seen the adcom distortion LEDs
flash before I was done turning up the volume to where
I wanted, this idea seems like a unique and very
vintage idea to acomplish this.

I had purchased some dq 12s for the rear for 500
shipped but they damaged in shipping. I am expecting
my 28s Sunday to use in the rear. The smaller
footprint and raised tweeter fit the room much better.
I think I would prefer the 12s as they are closer in
design to the 10 but I will take theses for only 156
and be happy.

As I type my equipment is
nec 61" plasma (mounted to the brick fireplace
cantalever stand)
Sony str-da 2es receiver
Sony nc555es cd/dvd
Comcast cable dual tuner
adcom 555
velodyne spl 1200r
panamax 5500 ac regenerator
4 10s in the corners
kef qx2c center

Changes to be made
put 38s in rear
stack 10s
add 2nd adcom
replaced sony 2es w/5es (for sharc processor)
maybe add 2nd velodyne sub
find dq branded center solution

I am working w/a friend to mae sure the 10s are
matched in their upgrades. I bought one set "done"
w/regnar upgraded caps, internal wiring, replaced
tweeter,and redone surrounds. The 2nd set was
original. So far we have done the regnar caps and
woofer surrounds and looking to upgrade the wiring.

Both sets need help w/bass. I seem to have less than
what others are saying they have. In general the
sytems sounds pretty good butI don't think the sum of
thepieces sounds as good as they should. I am hoping a
fellow DQ dude is near by and can listen and give me
suggestions and if ANYBODY has any hints , suggestions
or even crazy ideas on how to buy, build, or whatever
to stack these 10s to please speak up.

Mark

--- cubdog10 <cubdog10@...> wrote:

I'm currently driving my 10's with an Adcom
GFA-555II and love the
sound. What would be the benefit of adding a second
Adcom to the mix?
Do you think it would be worth the $400 to $500
investment?

cubdog10

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

I'm currently driving my 10's with an Adcom GFA-555II and love the
sound. What would be the benefit of adding a second Adcom to the mix?
Do you think it would be worth the $400 to $500 investment?

cubdog10

JP
sounds like Eburg might be the place for great vintage-who'da thunk
it. I knew that name struck an old college chord,though I always
liked Gardner's take in "Grendal". a great DQ10 is a slow rebuild,took
me 3 years to cough up the coin-spend more than you should but less
than you can and you will be successful.It's a great speaker to build
around, every system improvement will show. If the bucks are there a
Dynaco PAS3 pre is a great starter tube setup, for real sweetness.
You're a year late or you could of had one on a long term loan. So
what's your major? Beowulf is not a common thread-me now I'm just an
old fat finish carpenter, but every day is new and a challenge and I
enjoy it
John

--- In Dahlquist@..., "old.fatboy" <old.fatboy@...>
wrote:

Charivari??
Well- how many DQ 10 folks can there be in Eburg? This is amazing
how many are from WA-indeed Magnolia did a great marketing job for
Dahlquist-I remember the radio adds in the 70's and 80's(old and

fat

is not just a moniker it is now a way of life)
Sounds like a recap is beyond necessary for your 10's-fortunately
that is the cheap part of the start,Solen's would be nice but you
can go cheap with the basics- Dayton's or RatShack specials.

Me thinks your 10's were under powered and over driven, a hard
thing to beleive in a college town. A good friend suffered his
college age daughter's friends for springbreak(while out of town)-
They smoked his bi-amped Vandersteen 2C's,250 watts per speaker-
well my ears would be bleeding.

So What are you using to power your 10's, me an old PhaseLinear

400

series I- Is this a NW forum or what? had a pioneer SX1250

reciever

but was just too thin at 160wpc(now used as just a tuna) The

proper

power is the most important with these hogs,200wpc ss or 80 wpc

tube

Let me know how I can help-A DQ10 gives a lifetime of enjoyment
John

Yep, I go by Charivari on AudioKarma. Hrothgar is an artifact from
years back when I needed a quick email address name and had
memorized (but not yet forgotten) the first couple of pages
of "Beowulf" in the original Old English.

For recapping, I'm hoping to go with Solens for most everything, but
the midbass ($20 per cap!!). The price isn't significantly more than
the Daytons (Madisound vs. Parts Express), but the sound improvement
appears to be worth it. You're right of course, the rest is looking
like it'll be expensive such as switching to foil inductors and the
like.

My DQ-10s aren't actually from Ellensburg, originally. The guy I
traded for them from (who mislead me by saying they were fully
functional) was near Wenatchee and said he had bought them off of a
gent in Seattle. So, these are traveling Dahlquists at least. His
system did consist of some BPC, so it could be that his receiver
wasn't up to the task.

As to what I have to power them, that's a good question. My main
speakers are borderline high-efficiency, so I've been pursueing
lower powered amps as of late. I have a Radio Shack MPA-250 – much
better than you'd expect of that brand – and it appears to have
enough oomph for my listening room and preferred levels. If not, I
also have a Kenwood KR-1000 Galaxy Commander that has a fair bit of
power itself, so some biamping possibilities exist, at least for
fool's biamping (using fullrange power and the passive crossovers).

At any rate, I have a new reason to pursue a larger amp. Just a few
days ago, I snagged a pair of Sound Lab A-2 elecrostatic
loudspeakers. As I'm looking at the possibility of a sensitivity
rating as low as ~74dB, a hefty amp is now high on my list of
priorities. No worries, I'm not planning on abandoning the DQ-10s
just yet, so you'll hear more from me as I finish the
repair/upgrades of these speaks.

- JP

Charivari??
Well- how many DQ 10 folks can there be in Eburg? This is amazing
how many are from WA-indeed Magnolia did a great marketing job for
Dahlquist-I remember the radio adds in the 70's and 80's(old and fat
is not just a moniker it is now a way of life)
Sounds like a recap is beyond necessary for your 10's-fortunately
that is the cheap part of the start,Solen's would be nice but you
can go cheap with the basics- Dayton's or RatShack specials.

Me thinks your 10's were under powered and over driven, a hard
thing to beleive in a college town. A good friend suffered his
college age daughter's friends for springbreak(while out of town)-
They smoked his bi-amped Vandersteen 2C's,250 watts per speaker-
well my ears would be bleeding.

So What are you using to power your 10's, me an old PhaseLinear 400
series I- Is this a NW forum or what? had a pioneer SX1250 reciever
but was just too thin at 160wpc(now used as just a tuna) The proper
power is the most important with these hogs,200wpc ss or 80 wpc tube

Let me know how I can help-A DQ10 gives a lifetime of enjoyment
John

Well, Sandra, we're very glad that you've decided to join our little
start-up group. You obviously have a great deal of experience and
knowledge to offer. For we who haven't yet had a chance to hear the
DQ-20s, your impressions are invaluable.

For sources, I use my computer occasionally using albums I've ripped
into the FLAC (Free Lossless Audio Codec) format. I do still have a
few MP3s on my HDs from back in the day and for those I use the now
fairly old MAD plug-in that is a tremendous sound improvement over
conventional MP3s although it is a bit more processor intensive. For
the most part, I use a Toshiba SD-4960 universal player to play
mostly CDs with a handful of DVD-As and SACDs thrown in for good
measure. When I desire more critical listening, I use an old, but
still excellent Sony CDP-X111ES CD player with black Memorex disks
and use the variable audio out to directly drive my amp (makes for a
much cleaner sound than going through a pre-amp first). For the
analog end, I have an unusual looking, but surprisingly good Sony PS-
X500 Biotracer (found to be superior to the Rega P3) with a Grado
Gold or Grado Black cartridge depending upon, again, whether I
desire to listen critically and upon the condition of the vinyl
(save my good cart for clean, undamaged LPs). I am in need of a good
phono pre, though, so digital finds much more use than analog at the
moment.

Something that surprises me is how many Washingtonians have
Dahlquists. I'm in Ellensburg, WA or Central Washington to match you
Western and Eastern Washingtonians and found my DQ-10s fairly
locally. It would appear that Magnolia Hi-Fi made for an excellent
Dahlquist dealer back in the day.

- JP

--- In Dahlquist@..., "smw30" <smw30@...> wrote:

Hi guys, I lived in the Seattle area for a number of years before

I

moved back to Spokane. It is wet in the wintertime, but the

summers

are beautiful. I loved that area, I still miss it, but I'm here to
stay. It's been so long since I've heard the DQ10's that I

honestly

can't remember what they sound like. All I remember is that they
really impressed me with their sound, that's why I bought the

20's.

The 20's have very impressive soundstaging, the speakers just
disappear (especially with a good amp). They are very detailed

and you

really have to pair them with a good tube amp to sound their best.
They have excellent dynamics but some people think they are a

little

bass shy. Personally, I don't like a lot of heavy bass, it

overpowers

the rest of the music.
I want to have a computer based system, I think that it would

be

really convenient. If I add a really good dac, it should sound

great.

I like jazz, vocals, new age, the "older" country, some rock. What
does everybody have for their source? and amps, etc. I realize

there

aren't too many females on the audio forums, that' too bad as I'm

sure

most women like audio also. Sandra

John,

Thank you much for the write-up of the modifications you have done
to your DQ-10s. I have copied the pertinent text into a text file
and posted it in the Files section for future reference by others.

As to my pair, I did some more troubleshooting earlier today and
determined that the piezo is still good on the one (makes noise with
the good ol' meter lead scrape across the contacts), so it's likely
the caps that are bad. As cubdog suggested on AK, this one DQ-10
must've taken one heckuva shock from a dying amp to have two drivers
with burnt tinsels and the capacitors to the other two drivers go
bad.

Interestingly, the resistors also measure about 10ohms lower than
their label on my trusty, calibrated Simpson 206 Series 6. That's a
fair bit greater than the 10% tolerance, so maybe these old
wirewounds don't age all that gracefully. Perhaps future crossover
upgrades will also include replacement resistors in addition to new
caps and inductors.

As I don't have the appropriate capacitors on hand, I followed your
modification suggestion and just disconnected the supertweeter
altogether on both Dahlquists. The treble is a bit suppressed and
definitely rolled off on the higher end -- my guess by ear is around
15-16kHz. When I switched the tweeter leads, the output was greater
(though the roll-off was still present). However, there was a weird
phasing thing happening at the lower crossover frequency where the
midrange ends. It was very subtle and I may have overlooked it were
I not accustomed to other phase coherent speakers, but it was a
detraction and interfered with the coherence of the sound. So, I
returned the meter leads to their previous position and instead
upped the potentiometer to adjust for the reduced output.

To that end, I've figured out why the one working DQ-10 was 2-3dB
louder than the one I've repaired -- someone in the past removed the
adjustment knob on the good '10 and mispositioned it so the arrow
was not in the same position as the other. A very simple issue and
even simpler fix, but I was so obsessing over bad caps and drifting
resistors that I overlooked it for too long.

At any rate, the resultant sound is very pleasant and reminds me a
great deal of the Magnepans that drew me into audio in the first
place (though without the added joys of dipolar sound that the DQ-
10s lack everywhere but in the midbass).

Right now, I'm debating whether it's worth my scrounging up the cash
to completely rebuild the crossovers (nearly broke college student
here) and subsequently be out $100-150. The question is whether such
an outlay of money could be recouped were I to sell these speakers
eventually.

Thanks all for the help. I love trouble-shooting and repairing
speakers and these DQ-10s have been ideal for that (easiest access
to the drivers and crossover I've ever encountered).

- JP

--- In Dahlquist@..., "old.fatboy" <old.fatboy@...>
wrote:

Piezos bad ?let me know-took mine out of the equation on my first
tweak, reverse the polarity on the tweeter and completely

disconnect

the harsh piezo,at the Xover(just clip the lead at the 35 ohm
resitor)
the ScanSpeak 2010 seems to be a standard replacement for the
tweeter-once again with a 12 ohm resitor in parallel.

OK time for the tweak list, this is not all mine but a compilation
from other DQ10 fans must notably DMAN from AudioAsylum ( great
mentor when I began my project)


As for tweaks you can do spending little or NO money, here's a

few.

1. REMOVE the super-tweeter and its associated crossover stuff. On
the
schematic, that's parts labeled R6 and 7, C7 and 8, and L5 (and

the

driver,
of course). this yields a MUCH better top end with less hash in the
frequency extremes.

2. Change the phase of the tweeter. If you find the top end

becomes

rather
edgy after removing the parts described in #1, then try flipping

the

wires
on the tweeter. Whatever gives you the most listenable treble is

the

right
way around!

3. (okay, this costs a bit of money and requires disassembly of the
crossover and most of the speaker system). Add bi-wire capability

to

the
system. as you can see on the schematic (and rather obviously!),

the

crossover seems to be divided between the bass/midbass and the
mid/tweeter
layouts! The lines between C2 and L1 can be split, and L1 and C2

can

be set
up their own + terminals. At the bottom of the schematic, the

trace

between
each set of drivers (line joining the junction of L4, R5 and C6

can

be sent
to the - terminal of the C2 hook up, while the junction of L2 and

the

midwoofer can be sent to the - terminal next to L1's + hookup.).
Got it? I
hope so! I've done this to my system, and it allows me to use a

pair

of amps
(top and bottom, or vertical bi-amping) when I need "crazy loud"
volumes,
which is rare, but still, its nice to have...

4. Restuff the woofer enclosure with "acousta-stuff" dacron

acoustic

stuffing,cheap and helps the bass response.
One lb per enclosure

5. Mirror imaging older non-mirrored DQ-10's.You don't nee a kit

to

mirror image your DQ10's. Just remove the midrange and piezo

tweeter

from the panel,drill out the rivets,turn the panel around,and put

it

back together. then swap positions of the two panels,making sure

to

keep everything aligned properly

6. Stands to raise the speakers up to ear level for the mids and
tweets. Mine are homemade and stand 22".

A link to Frank Van Alstines news letter-magazine ,the Jan 1982

has

info on damping,
Frank is an opiionated old curmudgeon but is knowledgable.




Well thats all folks
John

Hi guys, I lived in the Seattle area for a number of years before I
moved back to Spokane. It is wet in the wintertime, but the summers
are beautiful. I loved that area, I still miss it, but I'm here to
stay. It's been so long since I've heard the DQ10's that I honestly
can't remember what they sound like. All I remember is that they
really impressed me with their sound, that's why I bought the 20's.
The 20's have very impressive soundstaging, the speakers just
disappear (especially with a good amp). They are very detailed and you
really have to pair them with a good tube amp to sound their best.
They have excellent dynamics but some people think they are a little
bass shy. Personally, I don't like a lot of heavy bass, it overpowers
the rest of the music.
I want to have a computer based system, I think that it would be
really convenient. If I add a really good dac, it should sound great.
I like jazz, vocals, new age, the "older" country, some rock. What
does everybody have for their source? and amps, etc. I realize there
aren't too many females on the audio forums, that' too bad as I'm sure
most women like audio also. Sandra

Piezos bad ?let me know-took mine out of the equation on my first
tweak, reverse the polarity on the tweeter and completely disconnect
the harsh piezo,at the Xover(just clip the lead at the 35 ohm
resitor)
the ScanSpeak 2010 seems to be a standard replacement for the
tweeter-once again with a 12 ohm resitor in parallel.

OK time for the tweak list, this is not all mine but a compilation
from other DQ10 fans must notably DMAN from AudioAsylum ( great
mentor when I began my project)


As for tweaks you can do spending little or NO money, here's a few.

1. REMOVE the super-tweeter and its associated crossover stuff. On
the
schematic, that's parts labeled R6 and 7, C7 and 8, and L5 (and the
driver,
of course). this yields a MUCH better top end with less hash in the
frequency extremes.

2. Change the phase of the tweeter. If you find the top end becomes
rather
edgy after removing the parts described in #1, then try flipping the
wires
on the tweeter. Whatever gives you the most listenable treble is the
right
way around!

3. (okay, this costs a bit of money and requires disassembly of the
crossover and most of the speaker system). Add bi-wire capability to
the
system. as you can see on the schematic (and rather obviously!), the
crossover seems to be divided between the bass/midbass and the
mid/tweeter
layouts! The lines between C2 and L1 can be split, and L1 and C2 can
be set
up their own + terminals. At the bottom of the schematic, the trace
between
each set of drivers (line joining the junction of L4, R5 and C6 can
be sent
to the - terminal of the C2 hook up, while the junction of L2 and the
midwoofer can be sent to the - terminal next to L1's + hookup.).
Got it? I
hope so! I've done this to my system, and it allows me to use a pair
of amps
(top and bottom, or vertical bi-amping) when I need "crazy loud"
volumes,
which is rare, but still, its nice to have...

4. Restuff the woofer enclosure with "acousta-stuff" dacron acoustic
stuffing,cheap and helps the bass response.
One lb per enclosure

5. Mirror imaging older non-mirrored DQ-10's.You don't nee a kit to
mirror image your DQ10's. Just remove the midrange and piezo tweeter
from the panel,drill out the rivets,turn the panel around,and put it
back together. then swap positions of the two panels,making sure to
keep everything aligned properly

6. Stands to raise the speakers up to ear level for the mids and
tweets. Mine are homemade and stand 22".

A link to Frank Van Alstines news letter-magazine ,the Jan 1982 has
info on damping,
Frank is an opiionated old curmudgeon but is knowledgable.




Well thats all folks
John

John,

I believe you were responding to my post concerning the burnt tinsel
on the midrange dome and broken tinsel on the tweeter. I do
appreciate the information on a possible replacement and I may very
well look into the Vifa domes when I pursue improvements. On
Wednesday, however, I discovered that I have more patience than
dollars and managed to affect a repair on the two broken drivers.

For the midrange, I completely removed the bad tinsel and replaced it
with my own made of 32 gauge magnet wire and soldered to the VC
inside. Of course, the task was more difficult than it should've been
thanks to that ubiquitous orange/brown resin used on tinsels around
this time that's impossible to dissolve with acetone, alcohol,
lacquer thinner, or even with dilute HCl (Muriatic acid). Hence why I
had to cut away the lead altogether and scrape away as much of the
coating as possible. To that end, does anybody know of a good modern
replacement for the resin so that I might coat my new tinsel for
improved mechanical durability?

For the tweeter, the task was much more of a hassle thanks to the
magnet cover being glued on. After spending the better part of an
hour attempting to open the driver housing so that I might have
better access to what remained of the tinsel, I had to abort that
approach and instead scrape away bits of superfluous plastic to
expose the tinsel. Afterwards, the repair was fairly straight forward
in soldering a short length of the fore-mentioned magnet wire to the
stub using a 15 watt iron with a fine tip that I've filed down to be
even finer for this type of repair and silver solder. The tinsel was
extremely fragile and fine, being finer than a hair (when I tired of
opening the magnet cover, I did the comparison directly). Fortunately
for me, the tinsel wasn't aluminum as I had feared, but rather had
merely been tinned way up into the driver when the leads were
soldered to the contact -- that small of wire heats up extremly fast
allowing for distant flow of solder.

After reassembling the drivers (ensuring the midrange dome was not
experiencing VC rub due to any magnet shift) and replacing them in
the questionable DQ-10, they proved to work just fine and are singing
quite well. Of course, that's when I discovered that the midbass and
supertweeter weren't working anymore. They were when I first picked
up the speakers, so more work was needed. The cap had simply gone bad
on the midbass (or is just very questionable and subsequently
intermittent), so I jury-rigged a test replacement daisy-chaining a
batch of spare polyprops I had to match the 80uF value. Now it's
working, but still nothing on the supertweeter.

I'm hoping the issue with the piezo is that the caps have simply gone
bad and that a fix will be equally simple. If not, I might as well
forward my question again of what the possible problems and fixes
might be for this driver? Anyone know of a good, cheap source of
replacement drivers with the proper part number? I understand that
the piezos came with different PNs to indicate how well the driver
fared with quality control testing and those used in the DQ-10 were
the best.

No pictures yet, I'm afraid as my digital camera makes the output of
camera phones seem like Ansel Adams works in comparison. More
information about my progress will be forth-coming as I get further
along in this project.

- JP



--- In Dahlquist@..., John Gilronan <old.fatboy@...>
wrote:

Cubdog,
I'm sure we have been on the same posts on AK, When I got my 10's

about three years back I had the same prob with my domed mid. I
substituted a Vifa 3" dome mid-off the top of my head I can't recall
the mod. # but they only make one in shielded and unsheilded. I put a
12 ohm resistor in paralell with it to attain th proper Ohmage.. i
got the Vifa from PartsExpress so check their website. I can't
remember his AK handle but the "twangophile" put the same Vifa driver
in for his domed mid and the 5" mid with happy results

If you haven't done so yet REBUILD the Xover with all new

inductors,caps and a new L-pad(Regnar is the only source for the L-
pad with a proper resistance) all the rest came from PE. I used Solen
caps and foil inductors-All I can say is WOW unbelievably fast with a
HUGE bass improvement.

Glad to find a forum to my all time favorite speaker-$300 of TLC

makes this beauty compete against the modern $5000 big boys

Old Fatboy on AA and
The Fatboy on AK
to my friends I'm just John


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low

rates.

sandra wells wrote:

Hi Sandra

glad to see another Washingtonian here-I'm on the "Wet"side in Monroe. I too fell in love with the DQ10 at Magnolia on Rooseveldt. I just couldn't afford them in the late seventies.Got back into hifi while I was back in MN for a couple years and the first thing I went after was a pair of DQ10's and built and rebuilt around them( rebuilt being the being the continual process).

I'm curious how do the 20's compare to the 10's-my understanding is that Marschiotti had much more to do with this design than Jon Dahlquist,and there is greater bass extension.

?

For me my main music choice is jazz and since the Xover rebuild the bass is terrific, Patricia Barber's "Nightclub" will rattle windows now a low listenable levels. Great to see a woman in these discussions, so rare to get the female perspective in what is mostly an "old boys club"

?

John

The?Old Fatboy?

---

Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2/min or less.

--- In Dahlquist@..., "smw30" wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone, I own the DQ20i (the i stands for Infinity, or so I've
> been told). I have owned them for approximately 7 years and it is
my
> 3rd pair of the DQ20i. (Had to sell the other ones unfortunately).
I
> pair them with Von Gaylord (Legend Audio) monoblock amps and
preamp. I
> don't have a source at this time but I have decided that I am going
to
> have a computer audio system. I'm not sure of the Dac I will
purchase,
> but am interested in Empirical Audio's offerings of the 12s. I just
> love my speakers, there isn't much better out there unless you want
to
> spend much more money.? Sandra
>
>
>
> --- In Dahlquist@..., "cubdog10" wrote:
> >
> > Welcome Dahlquist owners and enthusiasts. Let's share some ideas,
> > stories, tweaks, photos, and historical information. Whatever
> > information you have to help in the understanding and
preservation of
> > these wonderful speakers. I look forward to a fun and meaningful
> > diologue.
> >
> > cubdog10
> >
>
Sandra, how did you manage to find three pair of DQ20's. I rarely see
them on ebay and have never seen a pair in the Denver area. What do
they typically sell for?

cubdog10

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--- In Dahlquist@..., "smw30" <smw30@...> wrote:

Hi Everyone, I own the DQ20i (the i stands for Infinity, or so I've
been told). I have owned them for approximately 7 years and it is

my

3rd pair of the DQ20i. (Had to sell the other ones unfortunately).

I

pair them with Von Gaylord (Legend Audio) monoblock amps and

preamp. I

don't have a source at this time but I have decided that I am going

to

have a computer audio system. I'm not sure of the Dac I will

purchase,

but am interested in Empirical Audio's offerings of the 12s. I just
love my speakers, there isn't much better out there unless you want

to

spend much more money. Sandra



--- In Dahlquist@..., "cubdog10" <cubdog10@> wrote:

Welcome Dahlquist owners and enthusiasts. Let's share some ideas,
stories, tweaks, photos, and historical information. Whatever
information you have to help in the understanding and

preservation of

these wonderful speakers. I look forward to a fun and meaningful
diologue.

cubdog10

Sandra, how did you manage to find three pair of DQ20's. I rarely see
them on ebay and have never seen a pair in the Denver area. What do
they typically sell for?

cubdog10

OK for an intro all I know is the DQ10 and have been a long time
member of both AudioAsylum and AudioKarma so if you have spent time
there you have seen "Fatboy"
I sent this off to Cubdog and then realized he may not have been the
one after the dome mid info

When I got my 10's about three years back I had the same prob with
my domed mid. I substituted a Vifa 3" dome mid-off the top of my
head I can't recall the mod. # but they only make one in shielded
and unsheilded(two versions of the same driver). I put a 12 ohm
resistor in parallel with it to attain th proper Ohmage.. i got the
Vifa from PartsExpress so check their website. I can't remember his
AK handle but the "twangophile" put the same Vifa driver in for his
domed mid and the 5" mid with happy results

If you haven't done so yet REBUILD the Xover with all new
inductors,caps and a new L-pad(Regnar is the only source for the L-
pad with a proper resistance) all the rest came from PE. I used
Solen caps and foil inductors-All I can say is WOW unbelievably fast
with a HUGE bass improvement.
Glad to find a forum to my all time favorite speaker-$300 of TLC
makes this beauty compete against the modern $5000 big boys

I do have a whole tweak list for the 10 put will try to keep my
posts short so that will wait for next time. I am no longer a
computer junkie so I may not catch your posts or emails immediately
SO PLEASE BE PATIENT.

INFO I HAVE FOR THE DQ10

XOVER SCHEMATIC
BIWIRE SCHEMATIC-pretty much the same but woofer and mid woof
are seperated from the rest
MIRROR IMAGE INFO
MY STANDS
and of course the TWEAK LIST a compilation from other DQ10 fans and
my own experience
Glad to be aboard
John

---

PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

--- In Dahlquist@..., "hrothgar1982" <hrothgar1982@...>
wrote:

As I mentioned in my introductory post, I'm the new owner of a pair
of DQ-10s. However, the 2" midrange dome and 3/4" dome tweeter on
mine are bad.

For the midrange, the tinsel wire has been burnt up or broken

inside

its protective resin right where it enters the cloth dome. The

voice

coil is in good condition with no evidence of being overheated and
the like loosening of wires, continuity there also checks fine. So,
it must have been a mechanical breakage. In the past, I have
repaired similar breaks in similar drivers (the 2" dome midranges

of

a pair of Infinity Quantum 2s), however the proximity of the break
to the dome makes such a repair too difficult to undertake. And so,
I am in need of a company that might be able to affect a repair of
this driver or a source for good, but used equivalents. I am aware
of Regnar, but so too am I that their prices are above and beyond

my

range.

As to the tweeter, the aluminum tinsel leads have corroded from
exposure resulting in one breaking just as it passes beneath the
magnet cover. Unlike the midrange, this driver appears to be glued
together rather than screwed and so I cannot take it apart for
repairs. Nevermind that my success at resoldering aluminum VC wires
even with the appropriate solder has been minuscule. So, I need one
of these as well.

Another issue I discovered while tracking down the above problems

is

that the woofers, while largely the original Advent woofers with

the

masonite ring, have been reconed in the very recent past. The foams
and cones are spotless, but rather than the dark, almost purplish
cone with annulae, I find that mine have light grey and very plain
cones. The foam surrounds, however, were reglued appropriately.
Anyone know how I might identify whether the woofers were reconed
appropriately with the correct cone mass and VC replacements? There
is a number printed on the back of the cone that I do not remember
nor wrote down, but that I can retrieve if it might point to the
answer. If need be, I do have a pair of Advent/1s on loan to some
friends that I might retrieve and sacrifice for a woofer

transplant.

The drivers in these speakers I believe are the same as found in

the

New Large Advent and thus are the same that Simply Speakers sells

as

replacements for the DQ-10.

While I have mine apart and am working on them, I do plan on
eventually recapping the crossover as per the schematic in the

files

section. I'll likely also affect the mirror imaging project shortly
after I can locate the needed replacement drivers. So, I might as
well implement any modifications at the same time. Does anybody

have

experience with various modifications or suggestions for what I
might do to improve these speakers? Since half my midranges and
tweeters are shot, perhaps there are better options available that

I

should install rather than direct replacements? Any and all
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.
- JP

I for one would love to see photos documenting your restoration. It
might be a valuable resource for others attemping similar projects.

cubdog

Welcome to the group, Sandra!

I've seen mentions of the DQ-20s in the past, but am unfamiliar with
the design. Could you perhaps tell more about your speakers and
system? I must admit that I'm quite fond of reading what others
think of different pieces of gear and how they arrived at a
preferred sound.

- JP

--- In Dahlquist@..., "smw30" <smw30@...> wrote:

Hi Everyone, I own the DQ20i (the i stands for Infinity, or so

I've

been told). I have owned them for approximately 7 years and it is

my

3rd pair of the DQ20i. (Had to sell the other ones unfortunately).

I

pair them with Von Gaylord (Legend Audio) monoblock amps and

preamp. I

don't have a source at this time but I have decided that I am

going to

have a computer audio system. I'm not sure of the Dac I will

purchase,

but am interested in Empirical Audio's offerings of the 12s. I

just

love my speakers, there isn't much better out there unless you

want to

spend much more money. Sandra

As I mentioned in my introductory post, I'm the new owner of a pair
of DQ-10s. However, the 2" midrange dome and 3/4" dome tweeter on
mine are bad.

For the midrange, the tinsel wire has been burnt up or broken inside
its protective resin right where it enters the cloth dome. The voice
coil is in good condition with no evidence of being overheated and
the like loosening of wires, continuity there also checks fine. So,
it must have been a mechanical breakage. In the past, I have
repaired similar breaks in similar drivers (the 2" dome midranges of
a pair of Infinity Quantum 2s), however the proximity of the break
to the dome makes such a repair too difficult to undertake. And so,
I am in need of a company that might be able to affect a repair of
this driver or a source for good, but used equivalents. I am aware
of Regnar, but so too am I that their prices are above and beyond my
range.

As to the tweeter, the aluminum tinsel leads have corroded from
exposure resulting in one breaking just as it passes beneath the
magnet cover. Unlike the midrange, this driver appears to be glued
together rather than screwed and so I cannot take it apart for
repairs. Nevermind that my success at resoldering aluminum VC wires
even with the appropriate solder has been minuscule. So, I need one
of these as well.

Another issue I discovered while tracking down the above problems is
that the woofers, while largely the original Advent woofers with the
masonite ring, have been reconed in the very recent past. The foams
and cones are spotless, but rather than the dark, almost purplish
cone with annulae, I find that mine have light grey and very plain
cones. The foam surrounds, however, were reglued appropriately.
Anyone know how I might identify whether the woofers were reconed
appropriately with the correct cone mass and VC replacements? There
is a number printed on the back of the cone that I do not remember
nor wrote down, but that I can retrieve if it might point to the
answer. If need be, I do have a pair of Advent/1s on loan to some
friends that I might retrieve and sacrifice for a woofer transplant.
The drivers in these speakers I believe are the same as found in the
New Large Advent and thus are the same that Simply Speakers sells as
replacements for the DQ-10.

While I have mine apart and am working on them, I do plan on
eventually recapping the crossover as per the schematic in the files
section. I'll likely also affect the mirror imaging project shortly
after I can locate the needed replacement drivers. So, I might as
well implement any modifications at the same time. Does anybody have
experience with various modifications or suggestions for what I
might do to improve these speakers? Since half my midranges and
tweeters are shot, perhaps there are better options available that I
should install rather than direct replacements? Any and all
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.
- JP