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Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

The tweeter is now working but the super is still down. My next step is to pull and test the L5 Inductor and the 8.5 cap unless you have a better suggestion. Funning thing is the non-mirrored right side has the same issue, no super tweeter.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Looking good. How'd the test go?


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

I finished the repairs on the tweeter and super tweeter circuit. I'll install it tomorrow and give it a test. Thank y'all for all the help. Fingers crossed.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Good spotting that resistor. That's a very unusual one to go bad in these and not one I'd ever suspect. When the resistors do cook, it's those over on the bass leg in my experience. (Had a set where they got so hot they set the crossover board on fire, but that's another matter.) Hopefully the new parts will let you get them going so you have something to work with.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Have u considered just replacing xo boards

On Thu, Dec 24, 2020 at 5:51 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Update. Removed each part in the tweeter and super tweeter section of the board. Tested each component and found the 6uf and the 5ohm to be bad. I ordered the new parts and plan on replacing everything I removed with new ones.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Update. Removed each part in the tweeter and super tweeter section of the board. Tested each component and found the 6uf and the 5ohm to be bad. I ordered the new parts and plan on replacing everything I removed with new ones.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

No problem using higher voltage capacitors just so long as they're non-polarized (bipolar) for the audio purpose here.

Aircore inductors such as used in the DQ-10 are literally just a spool of wire. So long as they haven't been heated to the point of melting the spool or show signs of severe corrosion (ie crusty green), there should be nothing wrong with them. Just make sure the solder joints where their leads go aren't cracked (possible with age and not unheard of) or the leads themselves broken from too much flexing (unlikely).


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Thank you for the incite. I have a question dealing with voltage on the capacitors. I was going to purchase?Jantzen Audio 0.10uF & 0.15uF?1200V caps. We will these work as replacements or is the voltage to high? I believe the factory are 100vdc. Also the inductors (L), do you see them failing?


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

It's most likely the caps that are bad. Old electrolytic capacitors don't hold up over time especially after 47 years. The resistors should be fine as they tend to hold up well and when they go bad, it's usually pretty obvious (ie burned up). Well, except the carbon comp resistor on the supertweeter, those tend to drift wildly in value over the decades as they absorb moisture, but that wouldn't impact the tweeter that's not working. So, yeah, caps are likely the culprit. I'm actually surprised that they aren't giving you more problems. The 80?F is a common failure point with the DQ-10.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

They were abused and stored in a car trailer in South Texas heat where the wax on the boards melted and collected dirt. I am restoring them as a project of love. They were going to be thrown away and I decided to save them. I want to get them working 100% then work on the cosmetic.


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

I have to say...I've seen a lot of early and abused 10's in past out here, but these are the nastiest, most beat up covers I've ever seen. Like an electronic horror show. Were these subjected to a fire?


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

I have 2 set and never hear from piezo tweeters at all. I know the work as I wired jumper directly from amp.

I used clarity caps and mills resistors and sent the part list to you.

By all means do the xo¡¯s. It¡¯s only about 49 min per board.

Go to the xo board and trace the wire from board to tweeter. Make sure fuse holder is clean and not varnished. Then run jumper from a working driver to teeter or just speaker wire from amp directly to tweeter.

Good luck those boards look horrible.?

On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 9:30 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Checking back in. I have installed the original tweeters and the replacement advent woofers from Simply Speakers and now I know what I¡¯m dealing with. On the right speaker the super tweeter is not working, and on the left the both the tweeter and super tweeter are out. The good news is all the speakers work. I tested them by jumping from the working right tweeter and I have sound. So, I¡¯m beginning on the crossover repair. I want to considerate on the non working parts. After looking at the schematics I think this is the area of components I should concentrate on. I would love get y¡¯alls input. Should I start with caps the resistors?


Re: New owner of a pair of DQ10s that need a lot of work

 

Checking back in. I have installed the original tweeters and the replacement advent woofers from Simply Speakers and now I know what I¡¯m dealing with. On the right speaker the super tweeter is not working, and on the left the both the tweeter and super tweeter are out. The good news is all the speakers work. I tested them by jumping from the working right tweeter and I have sound. So, I¡¯m beginning on the crossover repair. I want to considerate on the non working parts. After looking at the schematics I think this is the area of components I should concentrate on. I would love get y¡¯alls input. Should I start with caps the resistors?


Re: Which side is positive?

 

Perfect! Thank you so much.

Cheers. Matt


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020, 1:25 PM richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
Follow Picts! They are correct

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:23 PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg=[email protected]> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:22 PM Richard Adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
For piezo brown is bottom purple top
Tweeter black top of fuse to top term
Purple or blue to bottom

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:08 PM dina hirsch <Rdajr1079@...> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:04 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the m negative side.


Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Re: Which side is positive?

 

Follow Picts! They are correct

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:23 PM richard adelberg via <richardadelberg=[email protected]> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:22 PM Richard Adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
For piezo brown is bottom purple top
Tweeter black top of fuse to top term
Purple or blue to bottom

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:08 PM dina hirsch <Rdajr1079@...> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:04 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the m negative side.


Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Re: Which side is positive?

 



On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:22 PM Richard Adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:
For piezo brown is bottom purple top
Tweeter black top of fuse to top term
Purple or blue to bottom

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:08 PM dina hirsch <Rdajr1079@...> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:04 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the m negative side.


Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Re: Which side is positive?

 

For piezo brown is bottom purple top
Tweeter black top of fuse to top term
Purple or blue to bottom

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:08 PM dina hirsch <Rdajr1079@...> wrote:


On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:04 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the m negative side.

Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Re: Which side is positive?

dina hirsch
 



On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:04 PM MattB <mab.switawi@...> wrote:
Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the negative side.

Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Which side is positive?

 

Ok. I have a set of DQ-10 tweeters supplied by Sheldon (thank you again). I am trying to figure out which side is positive and if the fuse is hooked to the positive or the negative side.

Also on the super tweeters the same question. I noticed a white dot next to a post on each speaker. I want to confirm whether it is pos or neg.

As always, thank you for your help. Cheers.


Re: DQ-10's

 

I've seen another pair in the sn 15xxx range with those polyester film caps. There was at least one dealer I know of (can't recall the name at the moment) that only sold their DQ-10s after changing out the electrolytics at the time with film types and stopped when Dahlquist introduced their factory polyester caps at sn 22000. There were also several outfits selling various film type caps as upgrade kits for the model. These aren't factory caps, so they're likely from one of those two cases.