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The Solen caps in the picture are date 1989 and 1990, not sure they were still making the DQ20i’s in 1990. I have totally rebuilt mine 4 or 5 years ago and don’t remember Solen caps.

1) Some of the inductors are wound with fine wire, so be careful poking around. 2) None of the resistors looked fried 3) Nothing seems to be disconnected 4) There were manufacturing variations, so

Just because I haven't seen this posted anywhere, here is a pic of my high filter crossover. This pic is taken looking in through the hole left after taking the woofer out. There was a fair amount of

Amazing what difference a vacuum cleaner, sandpaper and a little bit of elbow grease can make. Nice job...Also, can really tell you’re “one of us “Only someone like us would sit in their easy.

If you determine that your tweeters are blown consider upgrading to the Hiquphon OW1. These are made by a former Scan Speak design engineer. I have a pair in my DQ-20s and I like them. My Scan Speak

Resistance is 5.5 and 6.0 ohms on the tweeters without disoldering them from the XO, but with the fuzes removed and the speakers disconnected from the receiver. ?I tested both external fuzes on each

No they are on sep panel with mid drive and tweeter wrote:

Don't try to run them direct. If they are not already blown that will blow them. Try taking voltmeter readings right off the connections with them hooked up as they already are. Test CD source is

They have a history of being fairly fragile. But are you sure the fuses are still good. Just swap them with whatever you can find for a test.

The tweeters are the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 (3/4 inch soft domes... not piezos). I'll try wiring them directly. Getting at the XO may be a chore. ?I have to find it first and if they are

You won’t hear anything from piezo ones...run a wires direct from xo wires for tweeter to tweeter speaker terminal bypassing fuse holders to see if work Secondly run a wire from the speaker

Ok, I swapped out the source (to a known good NAD Receiver) and I am clearly getting zero output from tweeters. I fear the guy that owned them before me fried them. I'll pull them out (and maybe check

Thanks for the advice. ?I have a cheapo digital VOM (Greenlee) so I don't know if my equipment is up to the test. ?Still, I tried what you suggested and didn't hear a pop in either tweeter. On the

Check the resistance on the driver removed from the circuit. They make a replacement now with the fluid cooling. Bill Meyerhoff 843-834-2828 I have the DQ20i’s also!

If you put a standard multimeter on the ohms position in the Rx1 scale, it should only use the 1.5 V battery inside. If you touch the leads quickly to a driver solder terminal points, you should hear

I am single amping (Acurus A150, 14 gauge wire) with jumpers connecting the two inputs (little flat metal tabs). ?The fuses look good, although wouldn’t the midrange be dead too if the fuses were

I know enough about the DQ-20 and DQ-20i to be dangerous. But if it is both tweeters, it may be the way you biWired the speakers. I would think to get a proper diagnosis from people who know more than

I assume the 0.8 amp fuse tests good. And isn’t the wrong physical size so it fits snugly in the fuse holder

Hi all: just joined today as I picked up a pair of DQ-20i this weekend. ?I wish I could say I got them for a song, but I didn't. I thought I paid a good market value for them knowing that they are

Anyone have dq10’s I can get just mid bass, mid and tweeter drivers from?? Lol. Love to find some? [email protected]> wrote: