Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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Re: DQ-10 stacking stands - inquiry
I’m in the camp that it’s a hobby and it was fun to try. ?Here is my Rube Goldberg low cost stacking method. ?It uses the original base that was reinforced and pipe clamps. ?It was a little tippy at first, and I added a third clamp to the top DQ-10 and a ceiling joist. ?This is my unfinished basement so it was easy to implement. ?Each of the four speaker channels can be time aligned through a 4-CH Mini-DSP. ?However, I believe my stacking accuracy was good enough where it really doesn’t need time alignment.  
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Re: DQ-10 stacking stands - inquiry
I have never seen a "stacking kit" that wasn't homemade in design and build. That said, you won't find one that's manufactured. But the bigger point I'd make is "why?"? Other than impressing your neighborhood guy friends with the Grateful Dead/Van Halen-size rig in your living room, the audio signals will get all scrambled up and deviate FAR from what was originally designed. I own two pairs of tens and after considering how it disrupts the time-delay aspect (not to mention you have to mount the top speaker upside down and angle it very carefully, it did not seem worth the monumental effort. That's a LOT of top-heavy weight mounted precariously over the bottom speaker. God forbid it topples onto a child or animal.?
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I know there are a few out here who will vehemently take issue what I've said since they've done it, so take it as one owners opinion. There's something about those damn 10's that begs people to muck with them. LOL
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but IF, I WERE TO GO THROUGH WITH IT, I'd consider a computer server rack for its rigidity, strength, ease of assembly and mobility. Not sure how you'd mount the speakers to the rack bit it seems it would be a LOT less expensive and time-consuming than trying to build something from scratch. If it doesn't fulfill your dreams you can sell them on Craigslist later.??
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I'm away from home so I'm asking for your help. I'm replacing my Magnat mids in my DQ20's and the seller is asking for cabinet hole dimensions. Depth before inner vent tube and cabinet hole size. If anyone can rattle these off by memory, I'd be greatly appreciative. Mick?
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DQ-10 stacking stands - inquiry
Hello all,
I've done a quick search of this group's database and have found pictures of a few stands capable of stacking two DQ-10's.? ?Does anyone have more information on potential builds?? As I've never heard this type of setup, looking for input from folks - this will help me determine whether to pursue this project.?
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Also, anyone know if someone is manufacturing stacking stands?
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As always, appreciate your input and wish everyone a great day of listening!
Regards, Persi?
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Playing ?pink noise though the system is a MUCH MORE SENSITIVE TEST than any music. It is particularly well suited for phase and frequency response uniformity issues.
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This is because the ear is a good relative measuring tool and pink noise contains all frequencies equally dispersed by octave, the way the ear responds.?
you can easily find pink noise on many streaming sites and test CD’s / discs.
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However you must first learn what pink noise ?sounds like. One readily available source is an Apple iPhone or iPad. Above a few hundred Hz they are reasonably uniform and can adequately train your ear. What you are listening for is smooth sound. Hollow or harsh is bad.
One reasonable test is here.
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There are also many good apps for the iDevices that will give you a graphical display to the speaker response, but those require you both to know how to use and interpret what they are telling you, hence beyond the scope of this discussion.?
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
It could affect the xmax of the driver due to the change of position of the coil windings relative to the pole piece.
On Saturday, February 15, 2025 at 11:38:34 PM EST, Ed Marrs via groups.io <ed.marrs123@...> wrote:
I don’t believe this is normal. ?I have a second pair of DQ-10s that I stack with this pair and I replaced the woofer surrounds which were installed in the normal concave away for the listener orientation. ?However, I can’t think of a reason ?how either install would make a difference.
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
I don’t believe this is normal. ?I have a second pair of DQ-10s that I stack with this pair and I replaced the woofer surrounds which were installed in the normal concave away for the listener orientation. ?However, I can’t think of a reason ?how either install would make a difference.
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
I didn't see a response to your mention that the surrounds were put in with the concave side out facing the listener.?
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This is correct for these woofers.??
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"Who's on first"? you might not remember that skit...anywhoo, I tried both ways and settled on the faded red dot on old speaker as positive. Sounds better than the other way round. I'll ask Josh at Madisound on Monday what his opinion is. Thanks Charlie! Btw....wife and I liked the name Charlie enough to name our daughter it. Thank you again Mick
I was confused. A couple of ideas:
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1. Inspecting the fuse should confirm the connection.
2. The old tweeter likely has the same connection polarity.
3. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity tester that can be used to more quickly confirm the connection.
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if you plan on doing any future repairs and don’t have one a multimeter is inexpensive and indispensable.
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I was confused. A couple of ideas:
?
1. Inspecting the fuse should confirm the connection.
2. The old tweeter likely has the same connection polarity.
3. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity tester that can be used to more quickly confirm the connection.
?
?
if you plan on doing any future repairs and don’t have one a multimeter is inexpensive and indispensable.
?
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I wasn't sure if I was clear. The new Scanspeak tweeters have the polarity clearly stamped..it's the old ones that the plus and minus are in question. So George if I pull the binding plate in back and look at the? 0.8 amp fuse lead...that colored wire is the negative side of tweeter? Or in other words the black/white? Since the green/black are supposedly +/positive i.e. the post with the faded red dot. Thanks
referring to this schematic found in the files area the tweeter - connects to the fuse holder.
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referring to this schematic found in the files area the tweeter - connects to the fuse holder.
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Our messages crossed. The RED dot is the positive terminal.
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No battery test. Besides my eyesight is horrible. I guess I'll keep investigating. If I could figure out schematic...I'm sure my answer is pretty simple..just not to me. I was hoping other DQ20 owners could look at theirs.
What is the model number on the tweeter? Is it a new one? If you are talking about the wires coming from the crossover those have meaning but those have to matched to correct terminals on the tweeters.?
If you can not find any polarity marks of any kind on the tweeter and lacking any test equipment you are left with a battery test. It will work but you have to be very careful so that you don’t burn out your tweeter.
The key is to be ready to observe very small dome motions so you need strong light and keen vision.
What you are looking for is the connection that causes the dome to move forward(away from the magnet) this connect has the + terminal of the battery attached to the + terminal of the tweeter.
the connect MUST BE VERY SHORT, the shorter the better and certainly less than 1/2 second!
If you agree to take full responsibility to proceed is
:
To test a tweeter for polarity, connect one of its wires to the positive terminal of a battery and the other wire to the negative terminal; if the tweeter cone moves outwards when connected, the polarity is correct; if it moves inwards, you need to swap the wires to achieve the correct polarity.?
Key points to remember:
- Use a battery: A standard 9-volt battery is usually sufficient for testing polarity.?
- Observe the movement: When you connect the wires to the battery, watch if the tweeter cone moves outwards (correct polarity) or inwards (incorrect polarity).?
- Swap wires if needed: If the cone moves inwards, simply switch the wires connected to the battery terminals to correct the polarity.?
Why is polarity important?
- Sound quality: Incorrect polarity can lead to sound cancellation between speakers, resulting in a poor audio experience.
- Phase alignment: When multiple speakers are connected, ensuring correct polarity helps maintain proper phase alignment for a cohesive soundstage.?
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To test a tweeter's polarity using a 9-volt battery, touch one exposed wire of the tweeter to the positive terminal (smaller end) of the battery and the other wire to the negative terminal (larger end); if the tweeter cone moves outwards, the wire connected to the positive terminal is the correct positive lead, and if it moves inwards, the polarity is reversed.?
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Positive and negative terminals:
The smaller, circular terminal on a 9-volt battery is the positive, and the larger, flat terminal is the negative.?
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Cone movement:
If the tweeter cone moves outwards when touching the positive terminal, the polarity is correct. If it moves inwards, the wires need to be reversed.?
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Brief contact:
Only touch the battery terminals to the tweeter wires for a very short time to avoid potential damage.?
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What is the model number on the tweeter? Is it a new one? If you are talking about the wires coming from the crossover those have meaning but those have to matched to correct terminals on the tweeters.?
If you can not find any polarity marks of any kind on the tweeter and lacking any test equipment you are left with a battery test. It will work but you have to be very careful so that you don’t burn out your tweeter.
The key is to be ready to observe very small dome motions so you need strong light and keen vision.
What you are looking for is the connection that causes the dome to move forward(away from the magnet) this connect has the + terminal of the battery attached to the + terminal of the tweeter.
the connect MUST BE VERY SHORT, the shorter the better and certainly less than 1/2 second!
If you agree to take full responsibility
:
To test a tweeter for polarity, connect one of its wires to the positive terminal of a battery and the other wire to the negative terminal; if the tweeter cone moves outwards when connected, the polarity is correct; if it moves inwards, you need to swap the wires to achieve the correct polarity.?
Key points to remember:
- Use a battery: A standard 9-volt battery is usually sufficient for testing polarity.?
- Observe the movement: When you connect the wires to the battery, watch if the tweeter cone moves outwards (correct polarity) or inwards (incorrect polarity).?
- Swap wires if needed: If the cone moves inwards, simply switch the wires connected to the battery terminals to correct the polarity.?
Why is polarity important?
- Sound quality: Incorrect polarity can lead to sound cancellation between speakers, resulting in a poor audio experience.
- Phase alignment: When multiple speakers are connected, ensuring correct polarity helps maintain proper phase alignment for a cohesive soundstage.?
?
?
To test a tweeter's polarity using a 9-volt battery, Key points to remember:
-
Positive and negative terminals:
The smaller, circular terminal on a 9-volt battery is the positive, and the larger, flat terminal is the negative.?
-
Cone movement:
If the tweeter cone moves outwards when touching the positive terminal, the polarity is correct. If it moves inwards, the wires need to be reversed.?
-
Brief contact:
Only touch the battery terminals to the tweeter wires for a very short time to avoid potential damage.?
?
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There's a faint red dot...looking at images for 20's...the red dot is next to green/black wire. Internet says...red dot on speaker usually sign for positive. ??♂? sounds reasonable.
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025, 7:57?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Nope.? Looks like the paper or cardboard is peeled off. I'm assuming that those once held the polarity direction. Wire color doesn't qualify? Green/black white/black.
You should see a +/- ?or some other markings somewhere on the back of the tweeter, perhaps the back of the case.
Lacking that, you can test the tweeter with a battery but it is tricky.
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SpongeSound
Charlie Conger