Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
I don’t believe this is normal. ?I have a second pair of DQ-10s that I stack with this pair and I replaced the woofer surrounds which were installed in the normal concave away for the listener orientation. ?However, I can’t think of a reason ?how either install would make a difference.
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
I didn't see a response to your mention that the surrounds were put in with the concave side out facing the listener.?
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This is correct for these woofers.??
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"Who's on first"? you might not remember that skit...anywhoo, I tried both ways and settled on the faded red dot on old speaker as positive. Sounds better than the other way round. I'll ask Josh at Madisound on Monday what his opinion is. Thanks Charlie! Btw....wife and I liked the name Charlie enough to name our daughter it. Thank you again Mick
I was confused. A couple of ideas:
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1. Inspecting the fuse should confirm the connection.
2. The old tweeter likely has the same connection polarity.
3. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity tester that can be used to more quickly confirm the connection.
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if you plan on doing any future repairs and don’t have one a multimeter is inexpensive and indispensable.
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I was confused. A couple of ideas:
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1. Inspecting the fuse should confirm the connection.
2. The old tweeter likely has the same connection polarity.
3. If you have an ohmmeter or continuity tester that can be used to more quickly confirm the connection.
?
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if you plan on doing any future repairs and don’t have one a multimeter is inexpensive and indispensable.
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I wasn't sure if I was clear. The new Scanspeak tweeters have the polarity clearly stamped..it's the old ones that the plus and minus are in question. So George if I pull the binding plate in back and look at the? 0.8 amp fuse lead...that colored wire is the negative side of tweeter? Or in other words the black/white? Since the green/black are supposedly +/positive i.e. the post with the faded red dot. Thanks
referring to this schematic found in the files area the tweeter - connects to the fuse holder.
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referring to this schematic found in the files area the tweeter - connects to the fuse holder.
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Our messages crossed. The RED dot is the positive terminal.
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No battery test. Besides my eyesight is horrible. I guess I'll keep investigating. If I could figure out schematic...I'm sure my answer is pretty simple..just not to me. I was hoping other DQ20 owners could look at theirs.
What is the model number on the tweeter? Is it a new one? If you are talking about the wires coming from the crossover those have meaning but those have to matched to correct terminals on the tweeters.?
If you can not find any polarity marks of any kind on the tweeter and lacking any test equipment you are left with a battery test. It will work but you have to be very careful so that you don’t burn out your tweeter.
The key is to be ready to observe very small dome motions so you need strong light and keen vision.
What you are looking for is the connection that causes the dome to move forward(away from the magnet) this connect has the + terminal of the battery attached to the + terminal of the tweeter.
the connect MUST BE VERY SHORT, the shorter the better and certainly less than 1/2 second!
If you agree to take full responsibility to proceed is
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To test a tweeter for polarity, connect one of its wires to the positive terminal of a battery and the other wire to the negative terminal; if the tweeter cone moves outwards when connected, the polarity is correct; if it moves inwards, you need to swap the wires to achieve the correct polarity.?
Key points to remember:
- Use a battery: A standard 9-volt battery is usually sufficient for testing polarity.?
- Observe the movement: When you connect the wires to the battery, watch if the tweeter cone moves outwards (correct polarity) or inwards (incorrect polarity).?
- Swap wires if needed: If the cone moves inwards, simply switch the wires connected to the battery terminals to correct the polarity.?
Why is polarity important?
- Sound quality: Incorrect polarity can lead to sound cancellation between speakers, resulting in a poor audio experience.
- Phase alignment: When multiple speakers are connected, ensuring correct polarity helps maintain proper phase alignment for a cohesive soundstage.?
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To test a tweeter's polarity using a 9-volt battery, touch one exposed wire of the tweeter to the positive terminal (smaller end) of the battery and the other wire to the negative terminal (larger end); if the tweeter cone moves outwards, the wire connected to the positive terminal is the correct positive lead, and if it moves inwards, the polarity is reversed.?
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Positive and negative terminals:
The smaller, circular terminal on a 9-volt battery is the positive, and the larger, flat terminal is the negative.?
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Cone movement:
If the tweeter cone moves outwards when touching the positive terminal, the polarity is correct. If it moves inwards, the wires need to be reversed.?
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Brief contact:
Only touch the battery terminals to the tweeter wires for a very short time to avoid potential damage.?
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What is the model number on the tweeter? Is it a new one? If you are talking about the wires coming from the crossover those have meaning but those have to matched to correct terminals on the tweeters.?
If you can not find any polarity marks of any kind on the tweeter and lacking any test equipment you are left with a battery test. It will work but you have to be very careful so that you don’t burn out your tweeter.
The key is to be ready to observe very small dome motions so you need strong light and keen vision.
What you are looking for is the connection that causes the dome to move forward(away from the magnet) this connect has the + terminal of the battery attached to the + terminal of the tweeter.
the connect MUST BE VERY SHORT, the shorter the better and certainly less than 1/2 second!
If you agree to take full responsibility
:
To test a tweeter for polarity, connect one of its wires to the positive terminal of a battery and the other wire to the negative terminal; if the tweeter cone moves outwards when connected, the polarity is correct; if it moves inwards, you need to swap the wires to achieve the correct polarity.?
Key points to remember:
- Use a battery: A standard 9-volt battery is usually sufficient for testing polarity.?
- Observe the movement: When you connect the wires to the battery, watch if the tweeter cone moves outwards (correct polarity) or inwards (incorrect polarity).?
- Swap wires if needed: If the cone moves inwards, simply switch the wires connected to the battery terminals to correct the polarity.?
Why is polarity important?
- Sound quality: Incorrect polarity can lead to sound cancellation between speakers, resulting in a poor audio experience.
- Phase alignment: When multiple speakers are connected, ensuring correct polarity helps maintain proper phase alignment for a cohesive soundstage.?
?
?
To test a tweeter's polarity using a 9-volt battery, Key points to remember:
-
Positive and negative terminals:
The smaller, circular terminal on a 9-volt battery is the positive, and the larger, flat terminal is the negative.?
-
Cone movement:
If the tweeter cone moves outwards when touching the positive terminal, the polarity is correct. If it moves inwards, the wires need to be reversed.?
-
Brief contact:
Only touch the battery terminals to the tweeter wires for a very short time to avoid potential damage.?
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There's a faint red dot...looking at images for 20's...the red dot is next to green/black wire. Internet says...red dot on speaker usually sign for positive. ??♂? sounds reasonable.
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025, 7:57?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Nope.? Looks like the paper or cardboard is peeled off. I'm assuming that those once held the polarity direction. Wire color doesn't qualify? Green/black white/black.
You should see a +/- ?or some other markings somewhere on the back of the tweeter, perhaps the back of the case.
Lacking that, you can test the tweeter with a battery but it is tricky.
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Nope.? Looks like the paper or cardboard is peeled off. I'm assuming that those once held the polarity direction. Wire color doesn't qualify? Green/black white/black.
You should see a +/- ?or some other markings somewhere on the back of the tweeter, perhaps the back of the case.
Lacking that, you can test the tweeter with a battery but it is tricky.
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You should see a +/- ?or some other markings somewhere on the back of the tweeter, perhaps the back of the case.
Lacking that, you can test the tweeter with a battery but it is tricky.
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Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
On Fri, 14 Feb 2025 10:07:00 -0800, guida_f via groups.io wrote: As I wrote in my message #6532 that I sent on 01/15/2024 and as you
can see in the photos I attached to my message #6534 (sent the same
day) a non-negligible difference between the original woofers of the
DQ10 and DQ20 (the ones with the masonite ring) and other woofers
with the same dimensions and holes is the position of the cone in
relation to the basket. In the original woofers the cone is
significantly more forward than in the other woofers. This
compromises the time alignment of the woofer in relation to the other
transducers. My initial reaction is that a misalignment of the woofer would be less critical than a misalignment of one of the other drivers because the wavelengths of the acoustic waves that the woofer radiates are considerably longer than the wavelengths of the acoustic waves that midrange and treble drivers radiate. Or am I failing to take something into account? John Joseph McVeigh Butler, Maryland USA
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Re: DQ10 Woofer Distortion
As I wrote in my message #6532 that I sent on 01/15/2024 and as you can see in the photos I attached to my message #6534 (sent the same day) a non-negligible difference between the original woofers of the DQ10 and DQ20 (the ones with the masonite ring) and other woofers with the same dimensions and holes is the position of the cone in relation to the basket. In the original woofers the cone is significantly more forward than in the other woofers. This compromises the time alignment of the woofer in relation to the other transducers.
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On the mid range branding, I don’t know. I just pulled that schematic from this site. In terms of the resistors, I heard of situations where the resistors appeared fine and when removed were burned and cracked on the bottom. The Dahlquist included resistors are just basic and not super high-quality.?
I would take a close look at all the solder joints with strong lighting and a magnifier if necessary. Look for a smooth shiny appearance.
Swapping midranges will elliminate that as an issue.
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Thanks Charlie! I see on all schematics, they show the mid as "unbranded". Shouldn't it be Magnar? Or am I wrong? I'm receiving the next generation of the Scanspeak 2008 tweeter today from Madisound! Hey Charlie,? I didn't change out the cement resistors with the cap change...you don't think that may be an issue? I hope not. They all looked white and without burn spots..thanks for your wisdom. Mick
The caps in red are the ones that affect the midrange.
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The caps in red are the ones that affect the midrange.
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Charlie Conger
