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Per the previous thread on ways to replace the oversized 2-wire AC cord in the AC-4, I’ve found the perfect part: no drilling, no special tools, just pass an 18 AWG 3-conductor cord through the gland, solder the wires to the appropriate terminals, pass the gland through the existing hole without enlarging tighter and Bob’s yer uncle. Yes, 18 AWG is sufficient, as it can safely be used up to 10A. It took me as long to snap the pic and post it here. If you’re still concerned that the power cord isn’t “beefy” enough, look at the size of the conductors that follow inside the AC-4. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS

I am trying to make a full alignment to a Drake SPR-4 but I have come across with an issue in the first step that the procedure manual indicates, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. According to the point 5.3.1. I have connected a VTVM and the signal generato where indicated, I can adjust T17 for zero beat but when adjusting T15 and T16 for maximum deflection there is no a slight movement neither in the voltmeter nor in the S-meter. Due to the high impedance of the circuit , could be causing this the FET and IC located in the S-meter PCB? I have seen modifications that recommend to replace them: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/drmod101.html Anyone has had this problem before? Or could be caused by other elements.

Hi, Turned on my R4B calibrator, bad hum, them puff. Bad 1000 uf electrolytic in the 12v. line. Changed it, voltage ok, but dead. Suspect IC. Been looking, but cant find them. Anyone know a source? May stick in a small calibrator board I have instead, thoughts? Ed W1FU

Rather than spending time trying to reinvent the wheel, have any of you installed 16 AWG SJT power cords into an AC-4 using the correct strain relief? I understand that this will involve enlarging the hole in the AC-4 but I'm done with Dremeling strain reliefs to get them to work with round cables. Too much time and I have a few AC-4's that need at least an updated AC cord. Yes, 16 AWG is smaller than factory 14AWG 2-conductor but a 5A continuous load is fine with a 16 AWG cord. It's more important, at this point, to have a safety ground for the power supply. What size relief and what size hole? 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

Hey Everyone, I’m restoring a 2-B and would like to get an update on panel spacer availability. Some time ago, 2bradioparts.com stocked spacers that he had labeled as being for 4-Line radios; I compared one these to the a spacer installed that is in good shape, and it is the same size, while the new one looks to be plastic instead of fiber, which is fine. Does anyone know a source for these spacers nowadays? The new uncompressed thickness is 2.6 mm. See photo. Thank you, Michael Smith, N4KZO

On my TR-4, when I switch to AM mode I get no audio output at all. Can someone please suggest a way to troubleshoot this? I thought that if I touched the grid of the last audio amplifier with a screwdriver, I'd get a pretty loud buzz, etc., from the speaker but I don't get anything with that little test (crude, yes, but I was trying to see where the signal stopped). I presume injecting a modulated CW signal back through the chain should eventually find where it stops but not sure about that. Any hints are welcome. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

The other night I was in the shack, and looked around at all the stuff I've gathered together over the years. It's time to let some of this stuff go. So, I've decided to sell my Drake TR2770. This is a rather rare two meter rig with a UHF receiver. Yeah, marketing really missed the mark with this product. It's been so long since I used it, but I'm thinking it does multimode, too. I set it up to talk on the local repeater. Anyway... comes with the manual, power cord but no microphone. I rarely call something mint, but damn, this is about a close as mint as you can get. I'm asking $375 plus shipping Contact me off the list if interested.. at: prosolar@... I'm Mike, WB8VGE

Hello everyone. I am new here. Let me know if I become too much of a pain ... I just received a Drake 2B from an eBay seller. I will admit to a lot of stupidity on my part and a lack of understanding before I pushed the "Purchase now" button. I purchased this during an emotional stupor because I was looking for a GOOD old tube SW receiver like my Dad used when I was in elementary school in the 60s - a Hallicrafters S-40B. Mom and Dad were scrimping by with just barely enough money and my Dad picked-up that Hallicrafters from a junk yard and got it working again. Even though Dad had to walk a mile to work and back because he did not have a car, he gave some priority to buying that Hallicrafters. And we had a great time listening to stations all over North and South America late into the night (usually ending only when Mom came into the room with her hands on her hips). I remember the glow on the ceiling and the smell of those hot tubes. So, after reading a lot of reviews which all kept focusing on the Drake 2B as THE radio to have, I pushed that eBay button and have been waiting where my driveway meets the street ever since. It showed up yesterday and I unboxed it and started reading the manual. Boy, am I ever lost! I am not normally a stupid fellow and I can usually get my brain to cooperate on new and even difficult concepts, but that manual and me have decided to part company. Surely, there is a better source of information somewhere on how to work this radio! I have more questions than I believe this group will allow, but let me start with this one: If I understand the manual correctly, and a little simple math, if I purchase ten crystals and fill each of the ten slots, that will give me a total band spread of frequencies of (let's see: a 600 kHz spread per crystal, times ten crystals, equals 6,000 kHz of total frequencies) available on this radio. Of the frequencies usually collectively available on the LW, MW, and SW bands on most of these old vintage radios (specifically, .5 to 30 MHz), this radio will not tune to the LW or MW groups and will let me listen to only 6 MHz (6 MHz!) of the SW group. Is that REALLY true? Surely a coveted radio with owners' comments centering around "I will never give it up" to "I should not have given it up" can do better than that! Is this true, or will someone here tell me where the secret button is that will allow me to tune in the remainder of the HF field? Really, I think I goofed and bought a specialized radio that was never intended to be in the hands of a "general receiver" fool. Richard W2ONE By the way, ever since I unboxed the radio and started sighing heavily with each page turned in that manual, my wife has started standing at the door with her hands on her hips...