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When I brought this TR-7A back to life earlier this year, I had forgotten how much of an unholy racket that the fans produced, not only the radio but also the PS-7. I replaced the PS-7 fan with the recommended fan from the WB4HFN site and it did calm the howl coming from the supply. But the radio still had too much fan noise from the stock Drake FA-7 cooling fan. It blanketed the shack with white noise and just seemed unnecessary given the fact that 99% of my time is spent listening. That, plus the initiative to remove 120VAC from the chassis meant it was time to replace the fan. I used a 12V Noctua fan, which is an Austrian company known for very high quality cooling parts. I've been using their fans in CPU builds for the past twenty years and they are super quiet and don't "motorboat." This is a PWM fan so I picked up an inexpensive temp control board that directly drives the fan. When power is applied, the fan runs at 30% and you cannot hear it. When the temp sensor trigger is reached, the fan runs at 100%. You still can't hear it. Does this fan push as much air as the FA-7? Probably not just based on the "hand" test, but my duty cycle requirements are very low. Mostly CW with occasional SSB, and never RTTY/AM. An unrelated bonus is that the new fan is only half the width of the FA-7, so the radio doesn't sit as "deep" as it did before. Mihi convenit, tibi quoque valeat. -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC

I am trying to make a full alignment to a Drake SPR-4 but I have come across with an issue in the first step that the procedure manual indicates, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. According to the point 5.3.1. I have connected a VTVM and the signal generato where indicated, I can adjust T17 for zero beat but when adjusting T15 and T16 for maximum deflection there is no a slight movement neither in the voltmeter nor in the S-meter. Due to the high impedance of the circuit , could be causing this the FET and IC located in the S-meter PCB? I have seen modifications that recommend to replace them: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/drmod101.html Anyone has had this problem before? Or could be caused by other elements.

The PTO in my SPR-4 runs easily but with backlash from about 250 and up. Recently it was cleaned, lubricated and adjusted by a fellow ham with a lot of Drake experience, and when it came back, everything was fine. He thinks the screw setting the tension on the ball bearing at the end of the worm screw may need adjustment, only one or two degrees. What do you think? Could there be other reasons? Serial number: 1155. Peter OZ8CTH

I had a TR7 about 15 years ago and loved it but I sold it to help finance my K3 purchase, which I also love and still have. I acquired a TR7 today from an estate today with the PS7. It's S/N 2713. The thing was pretty dirty and will need a case repainting but seemed OK otherwise and the price was right. Here's what I have gleaned so far: 1. The PS7 doesn't work. I hear the transformer thunk when I turn on the rig and the fans on the PS and TR7 both come on but nothing else. The fuse is good and not blowing so I'll need to fix that at some point. 2. The rig came on fine with a different PS and seems to RX and TX fine but power out was around 170 watts and the ALC light was not coming on. I adjusted the control on the ALC board to about 150 watts on 20M at full drive and the ALC light now works but stays on no matter how low I adjust the drive. I know there's another adjustment for that on 10M on a diffferent board but I haven't gotten to that yet. Power doers adjust down to zero now. 3. The S-meter reads very low but signals sound fine so guess that's another adjustement I need to make. Forward and reflected hardly move the meter and adjusting the controls by the antenna socket make no difference. 4. Some good news is that all 4 filter slots are full which is great news for a CW op like me. 5. There's a big change in noise between USB and LSB looks like carrier balance is off. 6. The sidetone volume level is very low, I have to turn the volume control way up to hear it. I do have a PDF copy of the service manual. The big question is will I need the board extenders to fix all this and properly align the rig? If so wheer can I find some that won't cost me too much? My apologies in advance for the many stupid questions I'm sure I will ask as this project moves foward! 73, Bill NZ0T

I've done some more checking on the circuits that produce the S-Meter voltages. The below are measurements of V11 under no signal and then with a signal large enough to see S-9 on the meter. Voltages across R50 and R145 in series (Cathode Resistors - 68 ohms each): With no signal input to the antenna jack: 1.5VDC With enough signal to drive the meter to S-9: 0.6VDC Voltages across R51 (Screen Resistor #1 - 8.2k ohms): With no signal input to the antenna jack: 34VDC With enough signal to drive the meter to S-9: 27VDC Voltages across R52 (Screen Resistor #2 - 47k ohms): Note: I _think_ I'm properly across R52. It's very difficult to see where one end of it goes. With no signal input to the antenna jack: 115VDC With enough signal to drive the meter to S-9: 129VDC Voltages across R53 (Plate Resistor (through T11) - 1.5k ohms): With no signal input to the antenna jack: 14.6VDC With enough signal to drive the meter to S-9: 6.7VDC The above voltages were measured with my Fluke 27. The control grid voltages below were measured with an HP-410C: With no signal input to the antenna jack: -0.5VDC With enough signal to drive the meter to S-9: -3.9VDC How would one go about determining whether those voltages are somewhat correct? I'm still struggling with why 30uV doesn't even get close to S-9 and it takes around 1000 uV to get S-9. I know that getting an S-9 with 30uV isn't an exact thing, but I'm pretty sure something's wrong if it takes over 30x the voltage to get the specified S-Meter value. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

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Per the previous thread on ways to replace the oversized 2-wire AC cord in the AC-4, I’ve found the perfect part: no drilling, no special tools, just pass an 18 AWG 3-conductor cord through the gland, solder the wires to the appropriate terminals, pass the gland through the existing hole without enlarging tighter and Bob’s yer uncle. Yes, 18 AWG is sufficient, as it can safely be used up to 10A. It took me as long to snap the pic and post it here. If you’re still concerned that the power cord isn’t “beefy” enough, look at the size of the conductors that follow inside the AC-4. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS