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On my TR-4, when I switch to AM mode I get no audio output at all. Can someone please suggest a way to troubleshoot this? I thought that if I touched the grid of the last audio amplifier with a screwdriver, I'd get a pretty loud buzz, etc., from the speaker but I don't get anything with that little test (crude, yes, but I was trying to see where the signal stopped). I presume injecting a modulated CW signal back through the chain should eventually find where it stops but not sure about that. Any hints are welcome. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I am trying to make a full alignment to a Drake SPR-4 but I have come across with an issue in the first step that the procedure manual indicates, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. According to the point 5.3.1. I have connected a VTVM and the signal generato where indicated, I can adjust T17 for zero beat but when adjusting T15 and T16 for maximum deflection there is no a slight movement neither in the voltmeter nor in the S-meter. Due to the high impedance of the circuit , could be causing this the FET and IC located in the S-meter PCB? I have seen modifications that recommend to replace them: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/drmod101.html Anyone has had this problem before? Or could be caused by other elements.

The other night I was in the shack, and looked around at all the stuff I've gathered together over the years. It's time to let some of this stuff go. So, I've decided to sell my Drake TR2770. This is a rather rare two meter rig with a UHF receiver. Yeah, marketing really missed the mark with this product. It's been so long since I used it, but I'm thinking it does multimode, too. I set it up to talk on the local repeater. Anyway... comes with the manual, power cord but no microphone. I rarely call something mint, but damn, this is about a close as mint as you can get. I'm asking $375 plus shipping Contact me off the list if interested.. at: prosolar@... I'm Mike, WB8VGE

Hello everyone. I am new here. Let me know if I become too much of a pain ... I just received a Drake 2B from an eBay seller. I will admit to a lot of stupidity on my part and a lack of understanding before I pushed the "Purchase now" button. I purchased this during an emotional stupor because I was looking for a GOOD old tube SW receiver like my Dad used when I was in elementary school in the 60s - a Hallicrafters S-40B. Mom and Dad were scrimping by with just barely enough money and my Dad picked-up that Hallicrafters from a junk yard and got it working again. Even though Dad had to walk a mile to work and back because he did not have a car, he gave some priority to buying that Hallicrafters. And we had a great time listening to stations all over North and South America late into the night (usually ending only when Mom came into the room with her hands on her hips). I remember the glow on the ceiling and the smell of those hot tubes. So, after reading a lot of reviews which all kept focusing on the Drake 2B as THE radio to have, I pushed that eBay button and have been waiting where my driveway meets the street ever since. It showed up yesterday and I unboxed it and started reading the manual. Boy, am I ever lost! I am not normally a stupid fellow and I can usually get my brain to cooperate on new and even difficult concepts, but that manual and me have decided to part company. Surely, there is a better source of information somewhere on how to work this radio! I have more questions than I believe this group will allow, but let me start with this one: If I understand the manual correctly, and a little simple math, if I purchase ten crystals and fill each of the ten slots, that will give me a total band spread of frequencies of (let's see: a 600 kHz spread per crystal, times ten crystals, equals 6,000 kHz of total frequencies) available on this radio. Of the frequencies usually collectively available on the LW, MW, and SW bands on most of these old vintage radios (specifically, .5 to 30 MHz), this radio will not tune to the LW or MW groups and will let me listen to only 6 MHz (6 MHz!) of the SW group. Is that REALLY true? Surely a coveted radio with owners' comments centering around "I will never give it up" to "I should not have given it up" can do better than that! Is this true, or will someone here tell me where the secret button is that will allow me to tune in the remainder of the HF field? Really, I think I goofed and bought a specialized radio that was never intended to be in the hands of a "general receiver" fool. Richard W2ONE By the way, ever since I unboxed the radio and started sighing heavily with each page turned in that manual, my wife has started standing at the door with her hands on her hips...

Some things followed me home this weekend. In addition to my TR7 parts, I got several "bonus" items. Let me know if you recognize any of these pieces, or better yet let me know if you need them. -- Craig/W8CS Greenville, SC

I have been reading about them for electric vehicles (boost and regen braking etc.) so I thought of using them to take the switch-on surge and divert the surge from the filaments. You would need a high current silicon rectifier, but check that spec for surge current. I have not put this through tests yet, to montoir the current profile over time to the filaments - just an idea at this stage. They have a 2.7 volt rating, so 3 in series (8.1V) at 3F each gives you a very small 1F (one Farad) capacitor at 8.1V. I bought a 1F 16V electrolytic from a car audio (boom boom) shop for ?10 several years ago. I also put a 0.5 ohm resistor in series to limit the current. I thought it would stiffen my PS7, but the PS7 was plenty stiff enough. Nigel Patterson

I find myself with another TR-3 that I was not expecting. I arrived at my Hamvention booth Saturday morning to find a TR-3 sitting there. A fellow booth person who is local to Dayton brought it to me and said $50. I wasn't looking for one but said OK. He said he hasn't looked at it in about 15 years and remembers that it does not work. I have confirmed that it does not work! At least no snap, crackle, pop or smoke when powered up. Tubes and meter lights do light up. Audio is low to start and after 5 minutes there is almost no audio. No change in noise when the RF tune knob is rotated on any band. RF gain does work and s meter responds higher as gain is turned down. When put in CAL position there is a constant low frequency tone everywhere on any band. No RX signals anywhere even with my TS590 at 100 watts into a dummy load sitting next to it. When put in X-SSB to tune there is no plate current on any band. I am using the same power supply as I do with my other TR-3 so that should be OK. Time to open it up and look at the tubes first and go from there. Your thoughts, suggestions and guidance are appreciated as always. Dave, KC3AM

This is the only amateur radio group of which I'm a member so I'm looking for a bit of help. Is there an appropriate group for older Kenwood hand-helds? I have a TH-28A that needs an internal lithium battery and am having no luck finding a suitable replacement. If someone can point me to a group or, even better, point me to a source for those batteries, I would appreciate it. Note that I can find all sorts of lithium coin cells with solder tabs but none of the ones I find match the configuration of the one in my TH-28A. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ