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While cleaning, I found that I have a TR7 R7 left Endcap. It is in very good condition, no cracks near the screw holes. It is original, not a reproduction, so it will not shrink over time. $15 mailed in CONUSA. Gary W0DVN

I'm looking for a TR-4 sideband filter and selector switch. There's a type that was supplied in the mid-production TR-4s that does not protrude through the chassis. Some are blue some are unpainted aluminum. Picture below is an example. I'll take the filter and selector switch or I might be open to buying a whole parts radio. I would be open to the later 8-pole filter as well (the one that protrudes through the chassis) but it's not ideal for my application. Not interested in the early 4-pole "soup can" filter. Thanks!

The glass on the xtal selector switch in my SPR-4 was apparently broken and repaired. The result was miserable, so replacement is very much needed. Can anyone help? Thanks. Peter OZ8CTH

The SPR-4 is new to me, and I am somewhat confused about tuning the radio, possibly due to the receiver being misaligned in the past. I am using the settings on the attached list provided by the previous owner, and they do not match the tuning instructions in the manual. Please see the pictures of the crystal selector and band range switch positions on 80, 40 and 20 meters. There are xtals in all 23 slots. Peter OZ8CTH

This is a long short but what the heck, I thought I'd ask anyway. Does anyone know where the original factory Drake TR3 service manuals/documents might be found? I would like to get a hold of the factory TR3 service manual(s). I'm not referring to the TR3 operating manual, I already have 3 copies of that manual and schematics. I could be wrong but most likely Drake destroyed those documents when they stopped producing and selling ham gear and closed up shop. My interest is NOT to make copies and sell them but rater to use them to service my Drake TR3 transceiver I recently picked up on eBay. 73 Mike W5RKL https://www.w5rkl.com

Hi to all in the group! While having not fully finished repair work on the low-serial TR7 I posted about some while ago, an opportunity came up this weekend that I just could not turn down - a Drake TR4310 (HF) Communications Transceiver. When will I learn to finish one project prior to starting the next! The example I have acquired (2xx serial number) started life in Africa. Retired from commercial service, it was gifted to a UK amateur who happened to be passing through the country in the course of his employment. He sold it to me for a most agreeable price, in view of it having been in storage for some years, now not working and with some UK repair shop hinting it would be uneconomic to put right. The transceiver is dirty, but in good physical shape. It came with the full, paper service manual, which documents all of the differences between the TR4310 and TR7, on which it is firmly based. The parent board in it is stamped '5 May 1981', so around the time Drake was transitioning between making TR7 and TR7A. I've had the radio on the bench this afternoon. Annoyingly, I cannot find the small Allen key that will allow me to take the knob off the bandswitch (anyone know the size of this?). As a result, I am unable to hinge the front panel down and pull the display board and get to the boards underneath. I pulled all of the boards in the top-rear card cage and have cleaned all their Molex connectors, plus the relay contacts. The 4310 has all four filter slots filled as standard:-) Looks like there is an AUX7 board fitted, with maybe some band modules too:-) With no short circuit on the power input connector and internal fuse intact, I connected up an antenna and applied power. Sure enough it didn't work. Well, actually, quite a lot of it did! I have all voltage rails coming out of the power supply. The display has a few digits lit. Audio and RF gain controls are good. Mode, Filter and PBT functions change the noise in the speaker in the way you would expect. The calibrator produces drifty audio tones in the loudspeaker. Switching between bands and turning the Aux Program knob causes the 'set band' to illuminate and extinguish. On the negative side, there's no MHz digits displayed on the seven segment LED frequency readout for any band. Turning the knob on the (synthesised - yeah, like an RV75!) internal VFO causes some change to the last three right-hand digits, but does not look correct. I think the number one issue is lack of VHF local oscillator injection. I plugged in an RV7 external VFO and got no better results. I'm looking forward to getting this one going and will post updates to this thread once I get further down the line. One thing I am already enjoying is how much easier it seems to be to get to everything in the radio, compared to a TR7, especially the RF HPF and LPF assemblies (hope I will not have cause to go there). Should any other 4310 owners wish to chip in and share their experiences, please feel free. Regards, Mark.