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On a recent walk, I noticed a new vertical antenna a few blocks from me. It had traps, so most likely a ham. Back home, I was surprised to find city-data.com has FCC license data organized by community. To take a look, enter this in your favorite search engine and append a US city and state. site:city-data.com amateur radio licenses Example: site:city-data.com amateur radio licenses Montpelier, Vermont 73, Tom, AG9X

I've posted recently about some problems I've had neutralizing the finals in my TR-4. I think in the last post I made about it, I stated that the original 12pF (C77) that's across the variable capacitor, C76, tested completely bad ("No, unknown, or damaged part"); however, it occurred to me that this tester (a "T7") isn't spec'd to test below 20pF so the original may still be good. In any case, I ordered some replacements (a 10pF, a 12pF, and a 15pF) and they arrived today. I tried the 12pF and got basically the same results as the original (a semi-null with C76 fully open). I then decided to try a 2pF SM I happened to have and that gave me a semi-null with the plates fully closed so I figured the sweet-spot must be somewhere between those two values. Since I didn't have anything on hand at around 7pF, I connected the 15pF and the 10pF in series to obtain 6pF across C76 and that gives me a null with the plates virtually at the half-way point so now I'm searching for a suitable capacitor in the 6pF range but I'm not finding anything. Anyone know where I might find a suitable capacitor? If I can't find something, I may just stick with the two capacitors in series but I'm not very fond of a "flying splice" like that. What I'm really wondering about is why this rig needs only half of the original value capacitor in that place. I know that Steve has mentioned a brand of tubes that apparently needs a little more capacitance but haven't heard anything about needing less and so I'm wondering what could be causing that. As far as I can tell, there are no other capacitors in parallel with those two but several other capacitors connected to that part of the circuit in one way or the other. Any suggestions as to anything I might look for or maybe I should just chalk it up to the rig being 60 years old and several factors could be at play because of aging parts. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Does anybody know a valid email for Sindre? I've not been able to receive a response for the past several years. 73, Evan, K9SQG _._,_._,_

Yes, Ken, that email works. Thanks to those that provided me with the needed info! 73, Evan, K9SQG On Wednesday, April 9, 2025 at 08:11:12 AM EDT, Ken, WA2LBI via groups.io <wa2lbi@...> wrote: Does this work? sindre8095@... Ken WA2LBI On Wed, Apr 9, 2025 at 8:07 AM Sindre Torp via groups.io <sindre8095@...> wrote: Evan, You got mail !!!! Sindre, LA6OP ons. 9. apr. 2025 kl. 13:20 skrev Evan via groups.io <k9sqg@...>: Does anybody know a valid email for Sindre? I've not been able to receive a response for the past several years. 73, Evan, K9SQG

Hello, friends, I have a TR7 that initially exhibited display issues—random numbers appeared with dim brightness, and none of the bands were operational. After consulting with the forum and following the recommended steps, I inspected and cleaned all the unit’s contacts, but unfortunately, there was no noticeable improvement. Some time later, a friend and I resumed the repair process. After checking various components, we traced the issue to the DR7 board, specifically the U9022 counter (MC14518B). Upon replacing it, the display began to show the correct frequency. However, only three bands are currently working (1.5 – 2.5 and 28.5 MHz). We’ve identified the root of the problem as the PROM memory (U9003) (MMI 6300), which has two inputs shorted. I would greatly appreciate any information regarding this component, particularly the data it contains. Additionally, if this memory is no longer available on the market, does anyone know of a compatible replacement? Thank you in advance for any assistance. Diego Gallo – LU3HDD

I have in process a second lot of replacement blower wheels for the L-4B amplifier. These are the exact same blower wheels made by Torrington for Drake, with one exception. The blower wheels used by Drake have a hub (motor shaft) diameter of 0.25". The ones that I have located have a hub diameter of 0.125". I am having these machined out to 0.25" making sure that concentricity and perpendicularity are maintained to prevent an out-of-balance condition/vibration. My cost has increased slightly from last year. The cost will be $42, shipped US Postal Service. If you are interested in one, please email me at markhh@.... 73, Mark NO8J

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /TR4310/MMI6331_PROM.jpg By: atlasstuff <g4fph@...> Description: Possible substitutes for PROM in TR4310 (and TR7)

i try to contact No8j for a blower wheel its very hard to contact him. any body nows more thx Pd0fw Fred

A friend is doing a project for the ARRL and asked me about a Drake QXer Q-multiplier that works with a rather unorthodox IF frequency of 915 Kc (nearly double the common 455 Kc IF) I wonder which Drake receivers use this IF? (I understand that for a single conversion receiver the 915 Kc will offer better image rejection than 455 Kc in a single conversion receiver). All the Drake rceivers I own are more multi conversion. Needless to say it would have to be an older Drake receiver. Thanks, Bob, AF6C

All, I have a very early (S/N 260) Drake 2-C on the bench with an AVC issue I need a head check for. The symptom is that the idling AVC voltage, which should be adjustable during alignment to -1.35V will only adjust around the -0.4V to -0.6V range. Troubleshooting has revealed that the negative voltage supplied to the circuit is lower than expected -- it's riding around -25V, instead of an expected -70V (although some schematics show a -50V). I've traced this back to the power supply and confirmed that, at the junction of C53 and D5, the voltage is indeed about 25V. Does anyone know if, in the very early versions of the 2-C, the AVC voltage was significantly lower, or is there likely an issue that needs to be further diagnosed? What started all this was that while the slow AVC works fine, if you select fast AVC with the RF gain wide open, the AVC rapidly oscillates unless you back the gain down. Voltage checks have led me down this path, but I don't want to jump to conclusions due to the extremely low serial number involved. 73 - Steve, KW4H

There's a reason why Mother's Day happens a week before Hamvention

Greetings, I have been considering adding a speech processor to my shack. I was thinking it might give my TR5 a little help as they tend to be a little anemic, and maybe add a little to my B-line. I am looking at the Drake SP-75, The Ten Tec 234 and the Daiwa RF-440 Any thoughts or opinions? Is it worth it? Any others I should look at? Thanks, Ed KG5UN

I have just joined this group and hope that my question is on the right track. I have acquired a Drake L7 amplifier that was in excellent condition. I have performed the Harbach mod to the power supply and added the diode protection for the meters. The manual outlines a procedure for CW and SSB, which I find somewhat confusing. Does anyone have a tune-up procedure that they can share with me? Thanks, Ig Justyna, N?EFT

I am writing this as a new topic instead of staying on the scraping sound topic. After I tuned up the TR-4CW on 80 the S meter slowly went to the right and stayed there and now I have about hardly any volume even with the RF gain and volume knobs fully clockwise. Also by adjusting the RF gain (the little metal finger piece) the volume and the S meter do NOT change. Its as if the RF gain now does nothing. Any ideas? I don't want to spend alot of time on this because with my work schedule there is hardly any time. Mark

Good afternoon, fellow Drakesters! I have a surplus T-4XB available. It has been aligned and works great. Cosmetically, the front panel and cabinet are good. Output ranges from around 100W on the lower bands to around 75W at 28.8 MHz. Chassis has darkening but not nasty. The frequency disc is clear, knobs are nice and it has a mid-late s/n 18xxx. Just a good, working transmitter. Asking $150 + shipping from 27253 I can get some photos for those interested but it will be tomorrow. Steve Wedge, W1ES Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Sent from Proton Mail for iOS